When All Hell Breaks Loose: Stuff You Need to Survive When Disaster Strikes

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When All Hell Breaks Loose: Stuff You Need to Survive When Disaster Strikes Page 36

by Cody Lundin


  Anyhow, my solar system was not cheap to purchase and install—and I received discounts from friends who sold me the stuff and installed it. It won't make sense for many homes to convert to solar power from the expense standpoint alone. Mini-systems that will run basic essentials in an emergency can be put together fairly cheaply—real cheaply if you buy some of the items used. My first solar system consisted of a used solar panel I found in the classified section of the newspaper, one battery with a dinky charge controller, scrap wiring, and a 175-watt cheapo inverter available in the auto section of most discount stores. That was five years ago and it's still running strong, capable of powering a couple of lights, a laptop computer, and a small stereo all at once.

  Solar-powered electricity is a possibility for most parts of the nation depending on terrain and climate, but don't fixate on needing to run your electric lights or dishwasher in the face of a catastrophe—use balance in all things, never forgetting your survival priorities.

  Portable Battery Packs

  Several manufacturers make a portable suitcaselike power source built around a sealed lead acid battery. Most of these have a cigarette lighter adapter, a light, and jumper cables to jump-start your vehicle from the stored power. They also feature an AC power cord to let you charge up or keep the battery charged until it's needed. My model even has a built-in air compressor in case of a flat tire. These battery packs can run stingy power use LED lights for quite a while before losing their juice. While handy and reasonably priced at most discount or auto parts stores, they can be finicky about being charged and holding the charge when they get older. Pay attention to the directions if you get one and do what they recommend for the maximum life of your unit.

  Generators

  During the Y2K insanity, generators were sold out for weeks at all the hardware stores. I do love generators, as noisy and smelly as some of the larger ones can be. I still have the one that helped build my home by running an assortment of power tools and lighting. Many people are attracted to generators, as they offer the allure of being able to function normally, as far as appliances go, in the aftermath of a disaster. For some places, such as a hospital, it makes perfect sense to have backup power. Only you know how important it will be to use the washing machine and dishwasher when the sky is falling.

  Larger generators made to power an entire household can be wired directly into the home by qualified personnel and can even turn on automatically if and when the grid goes down. Special care should be given to the toxic carbon monoxide fumes put off by the running generator. It should be adequately vented away from the house, which the installation professional you hire should be acutely aware of.

  Smaller generators are very common and can be seen daily in the back of many building contractors' pickup trucks. These generators will not run your house, but will allow you to operate an assortment of appliances. Similar to solar photovoltaics, you can research the wattage of what you wish to operate and compare it to the wattage power put out by the various-sized generators. The more things you want to run at one time, the bigger the generator you'll need.

  Generators are not cheap; the cheaper the model the more problems you are likely to have. If a generator is a major part of your survival backup plan, buy the best one you can afford. However, the more your family relies on a system that involves many moving parts for their safety and comfort, the more you're putting yourself between a rock and a hard place when, not if, those moving parts fail. Generators are like kids and require maintenance and upkeep. They will need to be fed on a regular basis and flammable fuels in any quantity are sketchy to store safely. They might be cranky on cold mornings and not want to start. They will be noisy, which can irritate neighbors and telegraph to the entire neighborhood that you have power. They can smell from leaky oil, carbon monoxide fumes, and the fuel they require to operate. And of course, if it's not already apparent, generators generate only electricity, so will do nothing for your natural gas or propane appliances such as heating systems, stoves, and ovens. Do you want to spend hundreds or thousands of dollars to have your lamps work and run the refrigerator?

  I woke up one night to the sound of an engine near my rural homestead. As I had never heard the noise before from that direction, I went outside to investigate. It was my neighbors visiting their land from the big city. They were sitting around a peaceful campfire, yelling over the racket of their generator a few feet away that powered a single light bulb for who knows what purpose. Separate your family's wants from their needs now. Whether a generator is right for your family or not, don't forget the sacred aspect of simplicity in all things. The simpler your disaster plan, the easier it will be to initiate and follow in times of intense stress and fear.

  Light is a form of energy, which can be emitted through a variety of processes including incandescence, fluorescence and phosphorescence, and laser generation.

  Most modern people lack the psychological stamina and practice to deal with nighttime tasks and fears without adequate lighting.

  In the long term, such as in an underground survival shelter, adequate lighting to at least be able to see the dim outline of a form in front of you is vital for long-term sanity.

  Flashlights, such as the AA battery size, are cheap, compact, widely available, and have enough candlepower to get the job done for most household chores. Having a larger C- or D-cell-size flashlight will work well for larger nighttime jobs or backyard missions where extra light is needed. Buy them brightly colored or make them that way with highly visible tape. Unlike many other fuel-burning lighting devices, flashlights are safe to have around children.

  Buy and store regular brand name alkaline batteries commonly found at the grocery or discount store. Look at the date on the package and buy the newest ones. They will have an average shelf life of five to seven years but they should be rotated much sooner. Store them at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, in a dry area—NOT in the refrigerator. Keep extra batteries in their original package for storage and don't carry them loose in a pocket or purse.

  Chemical light sticks are widely available at camping and discount stores and are child-safe alternatives for certain low-light needs.

  Unscented candles of all types and sizes are available for emergency lighting. All should be used with caution around kids and pets, and kept well away from combustible materials such as drapes and bedding. Avoid candles that have lead wicks, such as those commonly imported from China and Mexico. Store longer taper-type candles flat in a cool, dry location to prevent warping.

  A few fuel-burning lighting options can be made with homemade fat, oil, or pitch sticks from dead conifer trees.

  Lanterns come in many forms, from battery-powered to propane, kerosene, and white gas, although the first two listed may be the easiest to use for the majority of people.

  Caution! All fuel-burning lanterns can be hazardous due to the dangers of dealing with flammable and toxic fuels, the potential of fire or burns due to the high temperatures involved, and deadly carbon monoxide poisoning. Be careful if you choose to bring this type of lantern into the house, especially around children and animals.

  Solar photovoltaic systems consist of photovoltaic panels that collect sunlight, inverters that change DC current to AC, batteries for storing the harnessed energy for nighttime use, charge controllers, wiring, and more. While larger systems can be very expensive, smaller emergency systems can be purchased fairly cheaply, especially if some of the parts are preowned.

  Fuel-burning generators can be purchased to generate electricity and run the entire household or a few appliances. All will require basic upkeep and fuel and will cost from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. When using a generator, beware of toxic carbon monoxide fumes.

  18

  Crucially CREATIVE COOKING

  "ed*i | ble (ed' a_b_I) adj. fit to be eaten"

  —Merriam-Webster's Collegiate Dictionary

  There are many ways to cook or heat up food when conventional methods a
re no longer an option. Whether you need to cook food at all depends on what's for dinner. Canned foods are precooked and can be eaten straight from the can. In summer months here in the Southwest, canned foods can be set in the sun for a few hours and then opened to enjoy a warm to hot meal depending on the sun's intensity and the length of the exposure.

  Many foods, such as grains and legumes, require heat to make otherwise indigestible components digestible or at least palatable. Below are many suggestions and items to have on hand that will make your kitchen experience a little less challenging during rough times.

  Handy Things to Have around the House

  for Preparing Food after a Crisis

  Major disasters will spell an end to a normal kitchen for days or weeks. Have the following goodies on hand to ease your food preparation until things get back on track.

  Cooking Utensils

  If nothing else, a good quality metal two- to four-quart pot with lid will serve you well for many meals. Number 10 cans from stored food or coffee cans can be used as cook pots in a pinch. Many of these cans have plastic coatings inside which must first be burned away before they can be used. Build a fire in a safe location outdoors or in your woodstove or fireplace. Place the can, opening down, on top of the fuel and light your fire. It shouldn't take more than five or ten minutes of decent flame to burn out the plastic coating. After the fire subsides and the can cools, take it out and wash it thoroughly with soap and water. In water-stingy desert locales, I've "washed" by aggressively scouring the can out with earth and sand before use. You can get fancy if you like and knock two small holes on opposite sides of the top rim with an ice pick, nail, and hammer, or a Swiss army knife attachment. Salvaged wire can be doubled up and anchored through each hole, providing a convenient bail or handle to suspend the pot over a heat source, to carry it when hot, or lash it down to a pack when hitting the road. Make sure your emergency cooking utensils are made from metal, as glass and ceramic cookware can easily be broken.

  Eating Utensils

  Many foods can be eaten with the hands. Doing so, however, increases the risks of gastrointestinal problems when forced to use emergency sanitation techniques. Why take the chance? Although Martha Stewart would disapprove, there is no need for a fork, spoon, and knife unless you think there is. Campers have used the famous "spork"—a combination of fork and spoon—for decades. A simple eating spatula can be carved in seconds from a piece of wood. Chopsticks from a couple of twigs can be improvised even quicker, and like the spatula, can be added to the fire or thrown away after the fact, saving time and wash water. With individual bowls, spoons are not required as you can "slurp-drink" your soup from the bowl itself. Although not a good sanitary habit, I have slurp-drunk stew from the cook pot along with everyone else who was present. We simply passed the pot around the circle of people, as no one had any containers or utensils.

  Spoons are great for canned goods and most survival fare, which usually manifests itself at some point as soup or stew. Stew is a great excuse to throw into a pot anything that might be edible, along with a bouillon cube for flavoring. Knives might be necessary if your survival cuisine gets tough and stringy. Although plastic silverware is convenient at first, it's weak and constantly breaks. If you pack only one eating utensil, make it the mighty spoon. Larger camping stores sell extremely strong Lexan plastic spoons if you're fickle about weight.

  Paper Plates, Cups, and Towels

  Paper utensils and napkins are great when washing dishes is a drag due to knockedout services. Paper plates come in several qualities and prices, as do paper cups and towels. The dirty dishes can be burned in a safe location or buried in the pit latrine, saving precious water and eliminating the chance of dirty or poorly washed dishes attracting flies and other disease-spreading critters. Paper cups can be purchased with built-in handles that make holding hot beverages more pleasant. Paper cups are also more durable than Styrofoam cups, which can easily crack and break and produce noxious fumes when burned in the living room fireplace or woodstove. Paper towels provide both safety and convenience for wiping up nasty things without worrying about storing the towel for later washing. Although paper products are perhaps not eco-friendly, their short-term use saves immediate resources far more precious to the survivor.

  Heavy-Duty Aluminum Foil

  Heavy-duty aluminum foil can be used to protect food that can then be thrown directly onto a hot bed of coals to cook in the fireplace. You can also fold aluminum foil into improvised containers that can hold food for cooking or water for boiling and disinfecting. Foil can also be used to reflect the light from a candle flame when mirrors are absent to achieve brighter lighting. I have aluminum foil covering the ends of my energy-conserving fluorescent lightbulbs. The larger bulbs stick out from many conventional lighting fixtures and their exposed glare can be annoying. The foil bends nicely to whatever shape is required and is worry-free against the hot bulb. Several sheets of heavy-duty foil can be used to make an improvised fire pit outdoors for heating and cooking. The foil can be used repeatedly or rolled up and discarded when cold to the touch. Foil can be used to line homemade solar ovens or scrunched up and stuffed into holes or cracks to prevent mice and other rodents from chewing and entering the opening. Layers of foil can be made into an insulating mat to act as an improvised lid for cooking pots or formed into energy-efficient skirts to put around burners and cook pots to maximize heat and conserve fuel. And of course, aluminum foil can be used to wrap and protect food for use at another time.

  Several Ways to Light a Fire

  Fire is king, and the art of how it's made, used, and extinguished can be incredibly complex so I'll save it for another book. For our urban adventure, have several conventional ways to make fire on hand at all times. While you can make fire with certain chemicals, sticks, parabolas, fresnel lenses, optics, mish metals, batteries and steel wool, "flint and steel," and even sunlight and the two-liter plastic pop bottle used for disinfecting water with the SODIS method, having and using matches and lighters is a lot easier under survival stresses. Both produce the instantaneous flame much sought after by more unconventional methods. Have two or three ways to make fire and, if you need to evacuate, carry them with you in three different places. Don't put all of your survival eggs in one basket. All responsible family members should be equipped with the necessary means to create fire.

  Regardless of the small amount of space I dedicate to fire in this book, your family's ability to create it and control it is of paramount importance to their comfort and survival. Practice now how to light a fire in all weather conditions and with all types of fuel. Seek hands-on training from a reputable instructor about how fire is made, used, and extinguished. Know well the three elements of the fire triangle—fuel, ignition or heat, and oxygen—as in these lie the keys to success for not just creating flame, but in controlling and putting it out completely for the safety of your home, neighborhood, and town. Ignorance can kill, especially when dealing with fire. Unfortunately, due to the majority of Americans being ignorant about how fire is created and used, you can count on many buildings (and towns) burning after a prolonged crisis due to carelessness and a lack of emergency response personnel and equipment.

  A Manual Can and Bottle Opener

  Years ago, Gary Larson's Far Side cartoon featured a couple inside a bomb shelter after nukes had gone off in the distance. The husband and wife were surrounded by canned food, without a can opener, as the wife yelled her discontent at her husband's memory lapse in proper preparation. Many homes have electric can openers, which will, of course, be useless during a power outage. If the lion's share of your emergency food is canned, a quality can opener or two is a must. Swing-A-Way makes a good brand of manual can opener that's easy to use, lasts for a long time, is readily available, and relatively inexpensive. Cheap can openers are a bummer to use; they result in mangled cans, spilled contents, and children learning bad words uttered by the pissed-off user. Military P-38 can openers are great. I have one on m
y keychain and use it often. They are cheap, lightweight, compact, and very fast with practice. Not all are created equal; discount stores carry brands made from cheap metal that bend and break. Try military surplus stores for the real deal. I've seen bottles opened with plastic combs, the sides of tables, and teeth (not recommended). The Swing-A-Way can opener also has a handy hook for opening bottles, as do most Swiss army knives.

  Camping or Backpacking Stove with Fuel

  Portable two-burner camping stoves are great for cooking grub when standard options are on the fritz. They're convenient, relatively safe when used properly, readily available, and easy to service and buy parts for. Larger two-burner stoves fold down into their own briefcase-sized container and include everything you need except fuel and a pot. I've used various models for years as a regular part of my kitchen experience. Basic two-burner camping stoves are available at many discount stores and are perfect for most families. I especially like the "matchless" models that use a self-generated spark to light the burners, thereby eliminating the need for matches or lighters.

  * * *

  NO CAN OPENER,

  NO PROBLEM!

  With practice, canned food can be easily opened with a little elbow grease and an abrasive surface. The raised lip on the top of a can is actually folded metal. By wearing through this "fold," the top will pop right off. To impress your family and friends (after practicing), start by firmly holding the bottom of the can, the raised lip pointed toward your abrasive surface. I like slabs of concrete, block walls, brick, sandstone common in the Southwest, or some other relatively flat, hard surface that has the grit required to wear through the metal lip. Firmly grip the can of food, put the lip in contact with the abrasive surface, and make a series of small, forceful circles like you're sanding a piece of wood with the top of the can. In a matter of a minute or less if you're really going at it, you'll see liquid from the inside of the can start to stain the "sanding surface." Fiddle with the lid to see if the metal is connected at any point; if it is, sand some more emphasizing the area that's not worn through. Other than a little grit in your grub, you should be good to go. Although more tedious, the can of food can also be held and a smaller abrasive surface worked around the lip of the can.

 

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