Preheat the oven to 400°F/204°C. Line a pair of rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.
Divide the pie dough into 2 equal-size portions. Dust your work surface with flour and roll out the dough into a 12 × 8-inch/30 × 20 cm rectangle. Cut the dough into eight 4 × 3-inch/10 × 8 cm rectangles.
Portion 2 tablespoons of jam into the center of 4 of the pastry rectangles. Paint the edges of the rectangle with the egg wash and then place another piece of pastry on top. Crimp the edges with the tines of a fork to seal. Prick the top 2 or 3 times with the fork to give the hot air a place to escape. Repeat with the remaining rectangles.
Place the completed hand pies on the lined baking sheet and paint the tops with the egg wash. Sprinkle with the sugar.
Place the first baking sheet in the oven while you prep the second half of the dough. Reroll leftover dough to make additional pies.
Bake until the pies are golden on top and have puffed slightly, 35 to 40 minutes. Remove them from the oven and let them cool on the pan for a few minutes and then carefully transfer them to a wire rack to finish cooling.
Finished pies are best eaten within the first 24 hours, but will keep for 3 to 4 days in an airtight container.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Any tasty jam you’ve got open.
FRESH AND JAMMED STRAWBERRY PIE
MAKES ONE 9-INCH/23 CM PIE
Strawberry pie is one of the great pleasures of early summer. However, I often get a hankering for a strawberry pie in February, when small, ruby-hued strawberries exist only in my memory. When that happens, I pull out a jar of strawberry jam, settle for strawberries shipped up from Florida, and treat myself to a pie worthy of summer.
1 recipe Favorite Piecrust (here)
All-purpose flour, for dusting
3 pounds/1.4 kg fresh strawberries, hulled and diced
2 cups/480 ml strawberry jam
3 tablespoons cornstarch
1 large egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water
Preheat the oven to 400°F/204°C. Position a 9-inch/22 cm pie plate next to your work area.
Divide the pie dough into 2 equal-size portions. Dust your work surface with flour and roll out the dough into a round large enough to line your pie plate. Loosely roll the dough around your rolling pin and then unroll it over the dish. Carefully ease the crust into the dish and patch any tears that appear.
In a medium mixing bowl, stir the strawberries, jam, and cornstarch together. Spoon it into the prepared piecrust.
Roll out the remaining pie dough into another large round. Roll the crust loosely around your pin and unfurl it over the filling. Trim the edges and crimp the crust. Cut a series of vents in the top of the crust. Paint the top of the pie with the egg wash.
Place the pie in the oven and bake for 30 minutes. When that time is up, lower the heat to 350°F/177°C and bake until the filling bubbles up through the vents, the edges of the pie begins to pull away from the corners of the pan, and the top of the crust is a gorgeous brown, an additional 15 to 20 minutes.
Remove the pie from the oven and let it cool to room temperature before you attempt to slice it.
Note: You don’t have to use a single sheet of piecrust to cover this one. You could weave a lattice or cut shapes out with cookie cutters and layer them on top. It’s up to you.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Strawberry jam. If yours is very runny, increase the amount of cornstarch by a tablespoon.
FANCY JAM TART
SERVES 10 TO 12
The bones of this tart comes from a blog post that David Lebovitz wrote more than ten years ago and I’ve been making versions of it ever since. The thing that makes it so special is the cornmeal in the crust—it makes the texture pleasingly sandy. I like to make this tart in a removable-bottom tart pan, but if you don’t have one, you could also use a square baking dish and cut the tart into small squares, as you would a bar cookie.
4 ounces/110 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup/100 g granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 large egg yolk
½ teaspoon almond extract
1½ cups/180 g all-purpose flour
½ cup/70 g finely ground cornmeal
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 cups/480 ml jam
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the butter and sugar and beat on medium-high speed until pale and fluffy. Add the egg, egg yolk, and almond extract and beat again until combined.
Place the flour, cornmeal, salt, and baking powder in a medium mixing bowl and whisk until combined. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients in 3 portions, beating to combine between additions.
Gather the dough into a ball and divide into 2 portions, one of them two thirds of the total; and the other, one third. Shape the 2 dough balls into disks, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
When you’re ready to construct the tart, remove the dough from the fridge and preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C. Take the larger portion of dough and press it directly into the bottom and halfway up the sides of a 9-inch/22 cm removable-bottom tart pan. (It’s a pretty crumbly dough. Attempting to roll it out can lead to heartache.)
Spoon the jam into the prepared dough and spread it evenly with an offset spatula. Using your fingers, break off small bits of the remaining dough and scatter them over the jam, much like you would with a crumble or streusel topping.
Place the tart pan on a rimmed baking sheet to catch any potential bubbling jam. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the crust is deeply brown, the topping has spread nicely, and the jam is bubbling.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool on a wire rack for 15 to 20 minutes, then remove the tart ring. If you wait until the tart is completely cool, any jam that bubbled onto the ring will stick and make it hard to remove. Let the tart cool completely before cutting and serving.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Any jam with a solid set serves well here. I particularly like how damson plum or sour cherry go with the almond extract in the dough.
GOAT CHEESE AND SAVORY JAM TART
MAKES ONE 10 X 2-INCH/25 X 5 CM TART
Savory jams are still something of a mystery to most home cooks. They’re not as easy to categorize and pin down as the classic all-sweet preserves. However, I firmly believe that having a few jars of tomato or onion jam in the pantry can be a boon to home cooks. You can pair them with cheese and crackers for an easy party appetizer. They give moisture to sandwiches when you’re out of mayo. And when added to a tart like this one, they help make a dish you can be proud to serve to your fanciest friends.
All-purpose flour, for dusting
½ recipe Favorite Piecrust (here)
8 ounces/225 g creamy goat cheese
1 cup/240 ml heavy whipping cream
2 large egg yolks, beaten
2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons finely diced shallot
1 cup/240 ml savory jam, such as tomato or onion
Preheat the oven to 350°F/177°C.
Dust your work surface with flour and roll out the crust into a round roughly 14 inches/35 cm in diameter. Loosely roll the crust around your pin and unfurl it over a 10 × 2-inch/25 × 5 cm removable-bottom tart pan. Tuck the crust into the corners of the pan and trim away overhanging dough. Crumple up a sheet of parchment paper and then spread it out over the molded dough. Fill the parchment with pie weights or dried beans that you save for this purpose. Bake the crust for 20 to 25 minutes, or until it is set, but not significantly browned. While it bakes, make the filling.
In a medium saucepan, combine the goat cheese and cream. Heat over low heat, stirring to work the cheese into
the cream, until the mixture is fairly uniform. Remove the pan from the stove and let it cool for a few minutes. Whisk 3 tablespoons of the cheese mixture into the beaten egg yolks, 1 tablespoon at a time, to temper the eggs. Stir the tempered eggs into the cheese mixture. Add the garlic, rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper.
Remove the pie weights from the tart shell, place it on a rimmed baking sheet, and pour in the filling. Sprinkle the shallots across the top of the filling, trying to keep them on the surface, rather than letting them sink. Increase the oven temperature to 375°F/190°C and bake the filled tart for 25 to 30 minutes, or until it is just set.
Remove the tart from the oven and spread the savory jam on top, using an offset spatula to create a smooth, even surface. Return the tart to the oven and bake for an additional 8 to 10 minutes, just to warm the jam and help it meld with the rest of the tart.
Remove from the oven and let the tart cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing. Serve warm or at room temperature.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
I make this tart with Tomato Jam (here), some chutneys, or nearly any sweet and pungent onion condiment that winds up in my pantry. The basic rule of thumb is that you want something not too sweet and that pairs well with cheese.
LEMON CURD AND BLUEBERRY TART
MAKES ONE 9-INCH/23 CM TART
I have always loved a good grocery store fruit tart. Traditionally made from layers of pastry cream, carefully arranged berries, and a perfectly clear glaze, they are one of my favorite things to bring to a party when I’m pressed for time and can’t manage something homemade. However, if I’ve got time to create something at home, I go a little less traditional. The bright, smooth lemon curd is many times more interesting than pastry cream, and the blueberries look pretty and rustic (with no fussy arranging required).
All-purpose flour, for dusting
½ recipe Sweet Tart Crust (here), chilled and ready to roll
2 cups/480 ml lemon curd
12 ounces/340 g fresh blueberries
2 to 3 tablespoons lemon or apple jelly, or as needed, for glazing
Preheat the oven to 350°F/177°C.
Dust your work surface with flour and roll out the crust into a round roughly 12 inches/30 cm in diameter. Loosely roll the crust around your pin and unfurl it over a 9-inch/23 cm removable-bottom tart pan. Tuck the crust into the flutes of the pan and trim away any excess crust. Prick the bottom of the dough with a fork to help prevent air bubbles from forming. Crumple up a sheet of parchment paper and then spread it out over the molded dough. Fill the parchment with pie weights or dried beans that you save for this purpose. Bake the crust until it is light brown and isn’t at all damp looking, 20 to 25 minutes.
Remove the crust from the oven and let it cool to room temperature.
To fill, pour the lemon curd into the shell and spread it evenly, using an offset spatula.
Rinse the blueberries and check them carefully for stems and dried-up blossoms. Dry them thoroughly and pour them into a mixing bowl. Warm the jelly just until it is loose enough to be pourable and drizzle it over the berries. Toss until they are well coated and gently tumble them evenly over the lemon curd.
Serve chilled.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
I like this tart when it’s made with lemon curd and blueberries, but it works equally well with other kinds of curds and different varieties of berries. Just know that if you use berries that you have to chop, which will release lots of juice, the tart won’t hold as long before serving as one made with intact berries.
DRINKS
Drinks and cocktails are one of the places where a homemade pantry can really shine. All manner of beverages can be made better and more interesting with a dollop of jam, marmalade, or shrub. During the summer months, I adopt the habit of swirling homemade syrups or runny jellies into tall glasses of sparkling water. In winter, I love to stir homemade marmalade into a mug of freshly boiled water or tea sweetened with a little apple ginger syrup.
Because I don’t personally drink much alcohol, I needed a little help when it came to developing some of these drinks, and my friend Emily Teel came to my rescue. She’s a food writer and recipe developer who loves a good cocktail and she was instrumental in the creation of the following libations. We brainstormed together, pulled a bunch of jars from my pantry, and got to mixing and shaking. The first four recipes in this chapter are the result of this collaboration and they are far better creations than I’d have concocted on my own.
Meyer Lemon Marmalade Martini
Jam Bramble
Jam Daiquiri
Blueberry Basil Lemonade Highball
Marmalade Hot Toddy
Champagne Shrub Cocktail
Pantry Sangria
Herbal Fruit Sparkler
Apricot Basil Sparkler
Cherry Mint Sparkler
Pineapple Cilantro Sparkler
MEYER LEMON MARMALADE MARTINI
MAKES 1 MARTINI
The bittersweet nature of marmalade shines in this twist on a classic martini. This is a strong cocktail, so if alcohol goes to your head as quickly as it does mine, opt for the variation that has you serve it with a generous splash of club soda.
2 ounces/60 ml gin or vodka
½ ounce/15 ml orange liqueur (Combier, Cointreau, or Grand Marnier)
½ ounce/15 ml freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon Meyer lemon marmalade
Club soda (optional)
Lemon wheel or twist, for garnish
Fill a shaker with ice and add the gin, orange liqueur, lemon juice, and marmalade. Shake vigorously until the exterior of the shaker is frosty, 15 to 20 seconds. Strain the drink through a fine-mesh strainer, working the pulp with the back of a spoon to force as much of the liquid through as possible. Serve it up in a coupe or martini glass, or over fresh ice in a pint-size/500 ml jar topped with club soda, if using. Garnish with a lemon wheel or twist.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Floral Meyer lemon marmalade is lovely here, but you can make this with the marmalade of your choice.
JAM BRAMBLE
MAKES 1 DRINK
A bramble is a classic gin cocktail typically made with blackberry liqueur and simple syrup. This version trades out both for blackberry jam, which gives the drink a vivid color and plenty of fruity sweetness. Three tablespoons might seem like a lot of jam for one drink, but a good deal of the fruit pulp is left behind when the drink is strained.
2 ounces/60 ml London Dry Gin (Beefeater or Tanqueray is best)
3 tablespoons/30 ml blackberry jam
2 tablespoons/30 ml freshly squeezed lemon juice
Fill a shaker with ice and add the gin, jam, and lemon juice. Shake vigorously until any whole berries in the jam are pulverized and the exterior of the shaker is frosty, about 20 seconds. Strain the drink through a fine-mesh strainer, working the pulp with the back of a spoon to force as much of the liquid through as possible. Serve it up in a coupe or martini glass, or over fresh ice in a pint-size/500 ml jar.
RECOMMENDED PRESERVES:
Blackberry jam is best here, but I could also see this made with black raspberry.
JAM DAIQUIRI
MAKES 1 DAIQUIRI
If you thought that daiquiris were a thing to be reserved for beach vacations only, think again. The sweetness in this one comes entirely from jam, blended with frozen fruit, white rum, lime juice, and ice. These proportions yield a generously sized, boozy cocktail. For a less powerful drink, or a nonalcoholic version, feel free to decrease the rum or omit it entirely, substituting water instead.
1 heaping cup/150 g frozen strawberries
¼ cup/60 ml strawberry jam
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
⅓ cup/75 ml white rum
1 cup/140 g ice
Place all the ingredients in a blender and purée until totally combined and velvety. This would be the drink to garnish with a paper umbrella, if you’ve got one.
RECOMMENDED P
RESERVES:
Strawberry is classic, but any other frozen fruit and jam combination could also work beautifully here. Try it with blueberries and blueberry jam, peaches and peach jam, or frozen pineapple with apricot jam.
BLUEBERRY BASIL LEMONADE HIGHBALL
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
This is simply a boozy lemonade that features a cheap party trick. As you build it in the glass, it develops a beautiful gradient effect for presentation. Serve with straws so your guests can swirl in the blueberry jam. A little sour on its own, this boozy lemonade gets balance from the jam. The crowd will love it.
1 cup/240 ml limoncello
½ cup/120 ml vodka
½ cup/120 ml fresh lemon juice
2 cups/480 ml cold or sparkling water
⅓ cup/80 ml blueberry jam
6 sprigs basil, mint, tarragon, or another fresh herb of your choosing
In a pitcher, stir together the limoncello, vodka, lemon juice, and water to create the lemonade. Divide the blueberry jam among 6 tall, highball-style glasses. Top the jam with ice to fill each glass. Gently pour the lemonade over the ice to fill each glass. Add a sprig of basil and a straw to each glass and serve.
Note: Feel free to mix the lemonade portion of this cocktail ahead of time. Store in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
The Food in Jars Kitchen Page 16