by John Man
CONTENTS
List of Maps
Preface
A Note on Transliteration and Dating
Prologue: Out of the Volcano
1 The Way of the Warrior: Beginnings
2 A Young Life Transformed
3 The Way of the Warrior: A Short History of Swords
4 The Coming of the Americans
5 The Way of the Warrior: Cutting the Belly
6 New World, New Life
7 The Way of the Warrior: Bushido
8 A Death in Kinko Bay
9 Exile, and a New Life
10 A Brief Taste of Power
11 The Prisoner
12 Into the Maelstrom
Photographic Insert
13 The Unhappy Revolutionary
14 The Accidental Rebel
15 Failure at Kumamoto
16 Retreat
17 The Long Road to Death
18 Saigo’s Last Stand
19 Transfiguration
Acknowledgments
Bibliography
Index
Also by John Man
Credits
P.S.
About the author
Read on
Copyright
About the Publisher
LIST OF MAPS
Saigo’s Japan, showing Kyushu and the way to Edo
The Satsuma rebellion, 1877
PREFACE
This is three stories intertwined.
One tells of the fast-flowing and dramatic events by which Japan, for 250 years a feudal patchwork almost entirely isolated from the rest of the world, became a unified, outward-looking and fast-developing nation. In 1850 the country was much as it had been in 1600: a self-contained world of thirty million serfs dominated by three hundred lords who owed their authority to the nation’s military dictator, the shogun, yet locally were absolute rulers. At the top of this pyramid was the emperor, a semidivinity, pampered as a lapdog, remote from everyday affairs.
The second story is that of the samurai, a military élite of some two million who underpinned the whole system with attitudes, behavior and equipment that all reached as far back into the past as the history of their local lords and the shogun they served.
By 1880 the lords and the samurai were gone, and with them the whole edifice of feudalism. Japan had leaped from the Middle Ages into the modern world. It was not a popular revolution, because the peasants had no say in it, but it produced a society familiar to Europeans: a sovereign at the top, a governing élite, an emerging middle class, and a restless but subdued mass of peasants.
The third story is that of the man who helped drive this revolution, and at the same time became its victim.
A NOTE ON TRANSLITERATION AND DATING
Except for Japanese names and words common in English (e.g., Tokyo), Japanese has been romanized according to the “revised Hepburn” system, with a macron to indicate long vowels, mainly the o. Unfortunately, because most e-book formats cannot accommodate macron symbols, these marks are absent from all electronic editions.
Traditionally, Japan used the lunar calendar, which divided the year into twelve months, each with 29 or 30 days. This gave 354 days in each year, so a thirteenth month had to be added every three years (approximately, because one year is about, 365.25 days, not an exact number of whole days). On January 1, 1873, the Japanese government adopted the Gregorian calendar. Some sources use both systems, but to avoid confusion I use only the Gregorian.
PROLOGUE
OUT OF THE VOLCANO
LONG AGO IN A GALAXY FAR, FAR AWAY, AND ALSO NOT LONG ago right here on earth, two warriors prepare for action. Though inhabiting separate worlds, Digital and Reality, the two have much in common. They are expert in the use of swords, despite the fact that they can call on the most fearsome and destructive of long-distance weapons. The real warrior carries a supremely strong yet flexible steel sword known as a katana, with edges that make flesh and bone seem as soft as new bread; the digital one wields a “light saber,” a blade of energy that emits a rather annoying hum when switched on and deflects other light sabers and almost anything else with a sharp crackle. Both say they are willing to fight to the death, though only one means it. Both could wear armor that would make them look like rather exotic insects, but prefer loose tunics.
Yes, the samurai, though long gone, are with us still in the Jedi knights of Star Wars, exemplified by the young hero, Luke Skywalker. Luke is not only the son of Darth Vader; he is also the spiritual heir of our real-life hero, Saigo Takamori, “the last samurai.” They are linked by more than their equipment. Both have an epic task ahead of them: to restore to power a vanished but virtuous world. Both adhere to austere chivalric rules supposedly based on ancient principles. Both have their spiritual masters, whose voices echo down through the ages. Yamamoto Tsunetomo, in his early eighteenth-century classic Hagakure [Hidden Leaves]: The Book of the Samurai, dispenses wisdom “that has been passed down by the elders,” like “Stamp quickly and pass through a wall of iron,” for the wisest counsel is often obscure. Yoda expounds precepts in Hollywoodese: “Named must your fear be before banish it you can,” he tells Luke. Wise he is, so backward he talks.
An inspiration for Star Wars: that’s just one example among many of the ways Japan’s warrior class lives on in the present. Novels, cartoons, DVDs, games, TV series without number and followers of martial arts the world over all show the enduring popularity of the subject. In Japan, samurai movies have been so popular—twenty-six films have been made about one character alone, the blind swordsman Zatoichi, who fights by hearing—that their influence on the West was virtually inevitable. They come down to us indirectly through the films of Kurosawa Akira (Akira being his given name, which comes second in Japanese). Without Seven Samurai—seven ronin (masterless samurai) hired by villagers to protect them from bandits—there would be no Magnificent Seven (1960), its Wild West remake; without Yojimbo, no Fistful of Dollars (1964) or Last Man Standing (1996).
You would think from most portrayals of samurai that they were solely a medieval phenomenon. They should have been. The Middle Ages were their heyday. Yet they survived not only as anachronisms but as a vital part of Japanese society until their destruction in the rebellion of 1877, as anyone who has seen Tom Cruise in The Last Samurai knows. That’s about the only historical fact you should take from the film, which is hardly more about samurai than Star Wars is. It is a beautifully made, well-acted hall of mirrors, splicing together bits of fact and fiction to make a story appealing to Western tastes. There were a few Westerners—Cruise-like figures—who fought in the Japanese ranks down through the years, and a couple who fought as samurai, but none on either side in this war. The samurai in the film are portrayed as a tribe apart, living like America’s Amish in noble isolation; in fact, they were interfused with the rest of society, many playing crucial roles as administrators. In the film, their leader Katsumoto (Ken Watanabe) is a traditionalist—one who, wonderful to relate, speaks English—steeped in the Way of the Warrior; in fact, the real-life samurai leader, Saigo Takamori, was a complex and contradictory mixture of past and future, revolutionary and reactionary, top government minister and rebel; a man who despised foreigners yet reluctantly accepted the need for change, a warrior who never actually fought, a man of action who loved to compose Chinese poetry, a man with a zest for life who spent much of it determined to die well, a leader who did not choose to lead the rebellion that ended in his death.
This is Saigo’s story. It is also the story of the formation of modern Japan. To understand him and his crucial role you have to start with the region from which he sprang.
The southern tip of Japan’s most southerly island has one particularly famous feature. I knew it was there, of course, yet missed seeing it for hour
s. From the airport expressway it was hidden by steep green hills. If you come by bullet train, you will miss it too, for you glide into Kagoshima’s heart through tunnels and cuttings. Away from the coast, views are blocked by new buildings. There are clues: the coarse, gray dust that gathers on footpaths, roads, parked cars and collars; perhaps a column of smoke darkening a blue sky. Soon, though, you will glance down an avenue leading to the sea, and stare astonished at the thing that defines the city, and the whole region: the great, gray, fuming volcano.
After that first revelation, Sakurajima was never out of mind, and hardly ever out of sight. From the eighty kilometers of curving coast, from the bulky green hill at the city’s heart; from hotel rooms and balconies and trams—you see it at every turn, half hidden by its own smoke or pale in dissipating mist or in crystal clarity under a blue sky. No wonder they sell Kagoshima to Europe as the Naples of the Orient. Sakurajima looms as large as Vesuvius over a bay that is as glorious as the Gulf of Naples, and safer for shipping too: Kinko Bay, protected by a fifty-kilometer inlet, is an inland lake, almost totally enclosed. The volcano is as erratic as Vesuvius, though less destructive, because Sakura is a jima, an island, with a handy three-kilometer stretch of water between volcano and city. Actually, it’s not quite an island anymore, because an eruption in 1914 pumped out enough lava to make a causeway to the mainland, but that is on the far side of the bay, and no one has suggested changing the name.
Sakurajima defines this place: its history, the city and the character of its people. Its explosive outbursts thousands of years ago cut this part of Kyushu, formerly known as Satsuma, from the rest of Japan (by pumping out ejecta that makes wonderful soil for the oranges named after the province—and cherries: Sakurajima means “Cherry Island”). Historically, Satsuma was hard to get to from the north, and hard to leave. But southward lay the open sea, and the outside world. It was this interplay of accessibility and isolation that made Satsuma what it was—and today’s Kyushu what it is: a province that was in effect its own miniature nation-state, part of Japan, yet apart from it. The city of Kagoshima also owes its character to the volcano, for the hills have stopped it spreading outward; most provincial capitals are circles centered on their castles, but Kagoshima is long and thin, squeezed between hills and sea. Saigo Takamori, the last samurai, owed his character to this proud region, and both were products of Sakurajima.
Once upon a geological time, southern Kyushu was very different. There were no hills—well, not today’s hills—nor was there a bay. But there was the volcano, one of eleven in Kyushu, all part of the system of volcanoes that encircles the Pacific. This one had been active on and off for a million years when, about 22,000 years ago, it blew up in one of the largest explosions in world history. Equal to a hundred Saint Helens, or ten Krakatoas, it blasted over one hundred cubic kilometers of the earth skyward, leaving a flooded crater almost twenty kilometers across and covering all southern Kyushu with a spongy plateau of rock and dust one hundred meters thick. Over the next ten thousand years rain eroded the soft rock into steep hills, leaving a forested battlement that cut off the Japanese mainland to the north. One of these hills is the tree-covered lump in the middle of Kagoshima where Saigo started his doomed rebellion and met his death.
Then, in another upheaval thirteen thousand years ago, the volcanic vent below the new bay burst again, spewing out enough lava to build the island of Sakurajima. The huge weight of rock, 10 kilometers across and just over 1,100 meters high, plugged the subterranean furnace, but not completely. This is one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Every day, often several times a day, it puffs out a cloud: sometimes a mere filigree, sometimes a thunderhead of ash and lightning. When in September 2009 I went to the research station that keeps a wary eye on the volcano’s beating heart, a hand-painted sign, changed daily, proclaimed that Sakurajima had erupted 365 times that year already. And occasionally the daily cough turns nasty. In well-recorded crises—twenty-five in the last five hundred years—side vents open, new craters form, villages vanish under lava. Yes, people live here, because the ash and lava turn into good, rich soil, which grows not only oranges but also radishes as big as watermelons, the world’s largest. Nothing more than daily smoke signals punctuated Saigo’s life, but sometime—tomorrow, next year, a century hence—villages, people, oranges and radishes will vanish beneath a new skin of ash and lava.
Thanks to the volcano, Saigo had somewhere to hide in his final, useless battle. It was September 23, 1877. His rebellion, ill-conceived from the start, was coming to an end. His band of six hundred warriors were armed with swords, and below him was an army of thirty-five thousand with field guns. His hiding place was a cave dug into a cliff halfway up Kagoshima’s central ash-and-pumice hill, Shiroyama. There was no escape. If he were to be captured, he would be executed. Even if he escaped, he was done for. At the age of fifty, he was exhausted and sick, with a heart too weak for his huge frame. There would be only one way to end it. As a samurai, he planned a glorious death in battle. He would fight; and then, when all was lost, he would choose the samurai’s ritual end, disemboweling himself with his own knife before an aide cut off his head with one swing of a sword.
Climbing through the forest on Shiroyama’s steep slopes, staring at the shallow cave, hardly wide enough for a man of Saigo’s bulk to lie down, I wondered at the nature of his heroism. The West likes its heroes to risk all and then live, or if they die to give up their lives in a noble cause. Think of Luke in Star Wars; or Horatius, who (in Macaulay’s poem) was prepared to die, facing fearful odds, for the ashes of his fathers and the temples of his gods, and survived gloriously; or Scott of the Antarctic, who didn’t. Saigo is a hero to the Japanese for exactly the opposite reasons: not only did he die, he did so in an utterly hopeless, even foolish cause, achieving nothing. That is precisely why the Japanese revere him, and several others like him in their history. This type of hero is admired and loved because “he is the man whose single-minded sincerity will not allow him to make the maneuvers and compromises that are so often needed for mundane success.”1
Saigo was a man trapped into a useless death by paradox: the troops below were the emperor’s, he loved the emperor, yet he had rebelled against him. How could he, a poet, a charismatic leader, a former minister, have gotten himself into such a fix? How could a man so rooted in the past be so admired today?
Saigo, in charcoal, by the Italian Edoardo Chiossone, who worked in Japan from 1875 until his death in 1898. The portrait was done in 1883, six years after Saigo’s death. Chiossone combined the features of Saigo’s younger brother (upper half) and a cousin (lower half). This, the standard portrait, has been much copied. The original has vanished.
(Engraved portrait of Saigo Takemori by Edoardo Chiossone, c. 1883)
1
THE WAY OF THE WARRIOR: BEGINNINGS
AT LEAST THE VOLCANO HAD NOT ERUPTED RECENTLY. THERE was only a dusting of dark gray ash on the paving stones, not enough to cake car windshields. Mr. Fukuda, head of the Museum of the Meiji Restoration, led the way out of his museum into the September heat, down from the embankment overlooking Kagoshima’s river. He was taking me to the birthplace of Saigo Takamori.
Not that there was much to see—a small square hemmed in by newish glass-and-concrete buildings, a grove of trees, a pile of rocks, a plaque. The house itself, the simple wooden house he was born in, was long gone.
“The government put this here in 1880,” said Mr. Fukuda. “The year of the new constitution.”
The government? But Saigo had died a rebel, fighting imperial troops.
“That was three years earlier. They couldn’t go on denying that he was a patriot at heart, and a hero, so he was pardoned.”
And instantly became a role model, as the plaque confirmed: “We want the young people of Kagoshima to follow in the footsteps of men like Saigo.”
This was a hero with humble origins, as Mr. Fukuda was eager to reveal, leading me on to the nearby reconstruction of Saigo’s h
ouse: a thatched roof and just four rooms, five if you included the area where the futons were stored during the day. Mr. Fukuda took off his shoes and stepped up into the shadowy kitchen, where a pot hung from a beam over the fire pit.
“He lived with his grandparents and his parents, and six younger brothers and sisters, and a servant—that’s twelve people in such a little house.”
The design was beautiful in its simplicity, with high ceilings to soak up the summer heat and the fire smoke, and tatami mats to sit on, and neat sliding partitions of wood and semitransparent paper. But it would have been crowded, with little privacy. Was this how all samurai used to live?
“Not all. His father was of low rank. But samurai are samurai! Even a low-ranking samurai was better off than a peasant.”
Not much, though. For one thing, other family members sometimes came to stay, swelling the household to sixteen. For another, his father’s pay for his job in the local tax office was not enough, even when added to the small stipend of rice that all samurai received. They might have had just about enough rice, but they still needed soy sauce, salt, bean paste, fish, vegetables, sake, oil for the lamps, charcoal, cotton cloth. The house was always in need of repair, the kids always in need of food and clothes. Saigo and his brothers were big boys, crowding onto a single futon with the girls. To get by, his father borrowed money and farmed part-time.
As a child, then, Saigo lived with contradiction: samurai status offset by poverty. His young life was one of hard work for the sake of the family. The struggle might have left him embittered; in fact, he was proud of both his roots, which made him stoical in adversity, and his poverty, which hardened his determination to help those in need. His strength came from his sense of identity—as a samurai, as a citizen of a proudly independent province, and as the product of an ancient culture.
To be born a samurai, even in 1827, was to win a top prize in the lottery of life. It really should not have been so. The violent, proud, prickly and thoroughly medieval samurai should have been swept into history’s trash basket after Japan was unified in 1600. But they weren’t. Quite the opposite. They survived, living on the rice stipends wrung as tax from farmers, merchants and artisans, and would remain a vital force for another three hundred relatively peaceful years. To outsiders, their peculiar attitudes and practices seem as exotic as peacocks’ tails; to themselves, and to most of their compatriots then and since, they were the very essence of Japanese society.