Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang

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Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Page 30

by Lonely Planet


  Nazlina Spice StationCOOKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-453 8167; www.pickles-and-spices.com/cooking-traditional-food-class.html; 2 Lebuh Campbell; morning/afternoon classes RM225/180)

  The bubbly and enthusiastic Nazlina will teach you how to make those dishes you've fallen in love with while in Penang. A course begins with a visit to the Campbell St morning market and a local breakfast, followed by instruction on four to five dishes including dessert. Afternoon lessons are vegan/vegetarian with no market tour.

  Penang Heritage TrustWALKING

  (PHT; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-264 2631; www.pht.org.my; 26 Lebuh Gereja; tours from RM160; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

  This conservation-minded entity leads well-regarded walking tours of George Town. There are four different walks, ranging from a religious-themed meander to an exploration of George Town's Little India, all led by experienced guides. Walks require at least two people, usually last around three hours, and must be booked three working days in advance.

  George Town World Heritage IncorporatedWALKING

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.gtwhi.com.my; 116-118 Lebuh Acheh; h9.30am, second & last Sat of month)

  On the second Saturday of the month, the theme of this two-hour walking tour is George Town's traditional trades. On the last Saturday of the month, the focus is on clanhouses, secret societies and Penang's melting pot of cultures.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  PENANG FOR CHILDREN

  Central George Town's busy streets and lack of broad pavements isn't the greatest place to stroll with kids, but there are plenty of diversions to entertain. Trishaw rides are always fun. The Padang and Fort Cornwallis are both relaxing places with lots of open space and food courts nearby with kid-friendly options. Penang Museum is educational, while other kid-friendly museums include Teochew Puppet & Opera House ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/TeochewPuppetAndOpera; 122 Lebuh Armenian; adult/child RM10/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), Tech Dome Penang ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 6663; www.techdomepenang.org; Level 4, Geodesic Dome, KOMTAR; adult/student/child RM40/32/24; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon) and Komik Asia. The various indoor amusements at The Top at KOMTAR should also prove popular with both toddlers and teens.

  The closest decent beaches are at Batu Ferringhi, while further afield at Telkuk Bahang, there's Entopia by Penang Butterfly Farm and the super adventure playground of Escape. For more thrills in the rainforest, a hike through The Habitat on Penang Hill is sure to be a hit with its treetop walkways, giant swings and zip-lines.

  GEORGE TOWN'S STREET ART

  The current craze for street art in George Town shows no sign of abating. It's a trend that goes back to 2010, when Penang’s state government commissioned the studio Sculpture At Work (http://sculptureatwork.com) to do a series of cartoon steel art pieces across town. Affixed to George Town street walls, these 3D artworks detail local customs and heritage with humour, while also providing a quirky counterpoint to the natural urban beauty of the historic core.

  It was in 2012, however, when George Town's street-art scene really took off. For that year's George Town Festival, Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic (www.ernestzacharevic.com) was commissioned to do a series of public paintings in the city centre, some of which he chose to combine with objects such as bicycles, motorcycles and architectural features. The art has been a smash hit, with his Kids on a Bicycle ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Lebuh Armenian) piece on Lebuh Armenian having become a major tourist attraction, complete with long lines and souvenir stalls.

  Zacharevic's success led to the '101 Lost Kittens' series of murals commissioned for the 2013 George Town Festival, with the intent of bringing attention to the issue of stray animals, as well as many examples of privately funded public art. Other major street artists' works to look out for include Russian arist Julia Volchkova's striking pieces (you'll see one off an alley on Lg Stewart) and UK artist Thomas Powell (www.thomaspowellartist.com), whose works are at the Hin Bus Depot Art Centre.

  'Marking George Town', a free map showing the location of pieces by Ernest Zacharevic and some of the other artists mentioned above, is available at Penang Global Tourism.

  4Sleeping

  George Town has all the accommodation options you would expect of an established and growing tourism destination, from the grungiest hostels to the swankiest hotels. In particular there are some really charming boutique places converted from former shophouses in the Heritage Zone. However, be wary that not everything advertised as a 'heritage hotel' truly fits that description.

  In general, hotel prices increase on weekends and holidays. Just about everything fills up quickly, so be sure to book ahead – especially if a holiday, such as Chinese New Year, is approaching.

  4Inside the Unesco Protected Zone

  oTido Penang HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-251 9266; www.tidopenanghostel.com; 106 Jln Argyll; dm/r incl breakfast from R40/90; aiW)

  Malay for 'sleep', Tido is one of George Town's best-designed hostels. Just the right side of industrial chic, the polished concrete walls and floors are brightened up with colourful art and space. There's a lift, so no carting your backpack up five floors to the ace common room with great views. Friendly staff and bicycle and scooter rental round out the package.

  Siok HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-263 2663; www.siokhostel.com; 458 Lebuh Chulia; dm/r incl breakfast from RM45/125; aiW)

  Taking full advantage of its huge, colonial-era structure is this spacious, nicely decorated hostel that claims to be George Town's largest flashpackers. Dorms range from six to eight beds, and there's a great rooftop communal area.

  Time Capsule HotelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-263 0888; www.timecapsule.my; 418 Lebuh Chulia; dm from RM62; aiW)

  If you aspire to feel like a Japanese salaryman – or just want to save some ringgit – consider a stay at this unique hostel. Upon checking in, you'll receive a bag of toiletries, slippers and, if needed, pyjamas, before being led to your bed: one of 80 futuristic pods equipped with TV, wi-fi, lights and a safe. There's an example of the pod at the hostel's entrance so you can see exactly what you'll be sleeping in.

  Ryokan MuntriHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-250 0287; www.ryokanmuntri.com; 62 Jln Muntri; dm/r incl breakfast from RM39/158; aiW)

  This flashpacker hostel boasts a minimalist feel – though not an especially Japanese one, despite the name. The dorms, ranging from four to six beds (and three women-only rooms), are almost entirely white, and the communal ‘Chillax’, TV and reading rooms are similarly chic. Private rooms with their own bathrooms have the same vibe – yet, lacking windows and space, are overpriced.

  Tipsy Tiger Party HostelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 2063; www.facebook.com/tipsytigerhostel; 20 Lrg Stewart; dm/r incl breakfast RM40/90; aW)

  The clue is in the hostel's name. This airy place's prime selling point is its bar, where guests can drink for half-price or go for an all-you-can-drink package starting at RM50. Whoever thought that triple-decker bunk beds were a cool idea might have had a few too many drinks themselves.

  Container HotelHOSTEL$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-251 9515; www.containerhotel.my/penang; 4 Gat Lebuh Chulia; dm/r from RM45/170)

  This hotel's concept rooms (crafted from old shipping containers) is a little fudged here in that there are no real containers used! Nonetheless, its dorms, which include female-only ones, are spotless and offer a smidgen more design style than similar backpackers. Private rooms are minimalist, compact and chic.

  oCampbell HouseHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 8290; www.campbellhousepenang.com; 106 Lebuh Campbell; r incl breakfast from RM392; aiW)

  Dating back to 1903, this once standard hotel is seeing a new life as a sumptuous boutique property. Thoughtful details, such as fragrant, locally sourced toiletries, beautiful Peranakan tiles in the bathrooms, Nespresso machines and high-quality mattresses, make the difference here – this in addition to excellent
service and overwhelmingly positive feedback from guests.

  oYou Le YuenGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 1817; www.youleyuen.com; 7 Love Lane; r/ste incl breakfast from RM200/300; aW)

  There are just four rooms at this boutique bed and breakfast, each making the most of this lovely antique shophouse with exposed brick walls, retro furnishings and a central courtyard (now used as a cafe). The duplex suites make full use of the building's height. As well as the cafe and bar there's also a fashion boutique to browse.

  oRen i TangHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-250 8383; www.renitang.com; 82A Lebuh Penang; r incl breakfast from RM200; aW)

  A careful restoration has transformed this former Chinese medicine wholesaler's into a warm, inviting small hotel. The 17 different-sized rooms, which carry charming reminders of the building's former life, span several layouts; we particularly liked the corner Tub Room, equipped with a wooden soaking tub and fragrant bath salts.

  Lang HooseGUESTHOUSE$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 6616; www.langhoose.com; 269 Lebuh Pantai; s/d from RM119/199; aiW)

  Badminton rackets and other sports memorabilia (including from Malaysia's Olympic medal winners) decorate the lobby of this appealing conversion of a colonial shophouse into a boutique guesthouse. The name is Gaelic for 'long house' which this certainly is, stretching the entire block and offering spacious rooms; cheaper ones share a bathroom.

  Spices HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 9986; www.spiceshotel.com; 5 Lorong Lumut; r from RM330)

  A 150-year-old bodhi tree sprouts from the wall in the courtyard of this appealing boutique hotel that has won an award for its architect owners. The eight rooms feature Malay, Islamic and Indian design influences. The neighbouring mosque will mean that you won't need an alarm clock for an early start.

  SinkehHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 3966; www.sinkeh.com; 105 Lebuh Melayu; r incl breakfast from RM198; aW)

  Yes, Sinkeh is located in an old shophouse, but inside modern concrete, glass and steel set the tone. Despite this, service is warm and the rooms are comfortable, if not particularly spacious.

  Le DreamBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-251 9370; www.ledreamhotel.com; 139 Jln Pintal Tali; r incl breakfast from RM258; aW)

  The eclectic decor mix of faux leather, galvanised metal and satin in gold and purple might not be everyone's idea of a dream, but there's undeniably a boldness about the place. Other appealing aspects include rooftop Jacuzzi pools with a view and the Sky Bar where guests can choose a movie to screen and are served free popcorn.

  Coffee AtelierHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 2261; www.coffeeatelier.com; 47-55 Lg Stewart; ste incl breakfast from RM380; aW)

  Unlike the slick heritage hotels you’ll find elsewhere, the renovation of this row of 1920s shophouses has left them feeling wonderfully rustic, and the peeling paint and quirky yet appropriate furnishings provide heaps of character. Each house is divided into two units, with a second smaller bedroom on the 1st floor and huge courtyard-style bathrooms in the ground-floor rooms.

  Breakfast is served in the attached Café 55 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.coffeeatelier.com; Coffee Atelier, 47-55 Lg Stewart; coffee from RM8; h8.30am-5pm Tue-Sun), and there's also an art gallery on-site.

  Segara NindaHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 8748; www.segaraninda.com; 20 Jln Penang; r RM100-180; aiW)

  This elegant century-old villa was once the town residence of Ku Din Ku Meh, a wealthy timber merchant and colonial administrator. His home has been tastefully renovated, incorporating original features such as the carved wooden ventilation panels, staircase and tiled floors. By contrast, the 16 rooms are simply furnished, but the place boasts an inviting, home-like atmosphere.

  o23 Love LaneBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 1323; www.23lovelane.com; 23 Love Lane; d/ste incl breakfast from RM528/1208; aiW)

  Occupying a former mansion, its kitchen and stables, 23 Love Lane tastefully combines antique furniture and fixtures with modern design touches and arty accents. There’s lots of open spaces and high ceilings to catch the breezes, inviting communal areas, a peaceful aura, and service that complements the casual, homey vibe.

  oBlue MansionHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 0006; www.thebluemansion.com.my; 14 Lebuh Leith; r incl breakfast RM498-1000; aiWs)

  Occupying one of George Town's most emblematic buildings, the Blue Mansion wrote the book on how to craft the ideal heritage hotel. The 18 spacious, high-ceiling guest rooms open onto airy courtyards and have octagonal terracotta tile floors. They're all decorated with antique and retro furniture and ooze authentic colonial-era atmosphere.

  oEastern & Oriental HotelHISTORIC HOTEL$$$

  (E&O; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-222 2000; www.eohotels.com; 10 Lebuh Farquhar; ste incl breakfast RM960-3910; aiWs)

  Dating back to 1885, the E&O is one of those rare hotels for which historic opulence has gracefully moved into the present day. We fancy the suites in the original Heritage Wing, which seamlessly blend modern comfort with colonial-era style, using hardwood antiques and vintage-themed furnishings; those with a sea view are worth the extra outlay. Rooms in the more modern Victory Annexe are no less appealing.

  oMuntri GroveBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 8888; www.georgetownheritage.com/muntri-grove; 127-131 Jln Muntri; r incl breakfast RM400; aWs#)

  Tucked off a quiet street is this row of 19th-century servants houses that have been transformed into one of central George Town's loveliest boutique hotels. Large attractive rooms include huge four-poster beds and vintage furniture. The small pool and leafy surrounds are an added bonus, and rooms on the ground floor are pet-friendly.

  Seven TerracesBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 8888; www.georgetownheritage.com/seven-terraces-hotel; 8 Lg Stewart; ste incl breakfast from RM550; aiWs)

  Crafted from a row of seven joined shophouses, surrounding a beautiful central courtyard, Seven Terraces is one of the most luxurious place to stay in central George Town. The 16 two-storey suites (including two even larger multi-room ‘apartments’) are vast and regal-feeling, and have been decorated with a mix of original antiques, reproductions and contemporary pieces. Enormous bathrooms with monsoon-style showers and spacious balconies are also a plus.

  Muntri MewsHOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-261 8888; www.georgetownheritage.com/muntri-mews; 77 Jln Muntri; r incl breakfast from RM400; aiW)

  This building’s original owners would no doubt be shocked to learn that their former stablehouse (mews) is today an attractive boutique hotel. The 13 rooms have a minimalist, studio-like vibe, with each boasting retro-themed furniture, an attractive black-and-white tiled bathroom, and vast 'double queen' beds.

  The EdisonBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 2990; http://theedisonhotels.com; 15 Lebuh Leith; d/ste from RM550/850; paiWs)

  Looking fabulous after a major overhaul, this spacious colonial building offers tastefully decorated rooms, a light-infused courtyard, high ceilings, latticed windows and a grand entrance. There are also cabanas to lounge in next to the pool.

  LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

  THE RICE MILLER

  Set to open in 2017 on 1.2 hectares of prime Heritage Zone land is the Rice Miller development that includes a luxury hotel ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-262 3818; www.thericemiller.com; 11 Pengkalan Weld; ste from RM1000; aiWs), the Carriageway collection of shops and restaurants, a crafts market and a state-of-the-art events centre based in one of the 1920s rice godowns (warehouses). Kate Lim, chairperson of the company developing the site, is the fourth-generation descendant of Phuah Hin Leong, the rags-to-riches rice merchant after whom The Rice Miller is branded. Her name is the inspiration for Kate at 9, the molecular French cuisine restaurant set to occupy the rice mill's old offices.

  4Outside the Unesco Protected
Zone

  oNoordin MewsHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-263 7125; www.noordinmews.com; 53 Lebuh Noordin; s/d/ste incl breakfast RM368/396/593; aiWs)

  These two restored shophouses boast an attractive 1920s and '30s feel, down to the antique adverts and retro furniture. Very friendly service, a pool and a secluded-feeling location away from the main tourist drag are additional draws.

  Museum HotelHOTEL$$

  ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-226 6668; www.museumhotel.com.my; 72 Jln AS Mansor; r incl breakfast from RM160; aiW)

  Attractive, comfortable, boasting great service and representing good value, the Museum Hotel is a gem in this price range. Located in a stately block of restored shophouses, the 24 rooms here range from tight-but-comfy singles to larger rooms, all tastefully decorated with antique- and vintage-themed design touches, and looked after by capable staff.

  GLOWHOTEL$$

  ( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-226 0084; www.glowbyzinc.com/penang; 101 Jln Macalister; r incl breakfast from RM130; aiWs)

  A chain with charm. And lots of space. And a location near tonnes of street food. And it's great value. There's certainly a lot to like about this young-feeling hotel, located about 700m north of the intersection with Jln Penang.

 

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