The Best...
ASight Kek Lok Si Temple
APlace to Eat Khunthai
ABeach Pantai Pasir Panjang
Top Tip
To walk the 5km from the top of Penang Hill to the Botanical Gardens takes around 1½ hours; you'll see some experienced walkers going backwards to save the pounding on the knees.
Air Itam & Penang Hill
1Sights
Penang's most spectacular Buddhist temple and the refreshing air, lush ancient rainforest and vistas from atop Penang Hill are all fine reasons for making time for this part of the island. This can easily be done as a day trip from George Town.
It's generally about 5°C cooler at the top of Penang Hill, 833m above sea level. The funicular ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.penanghill.gov.my; one-way adult/child RM15/5, fast lane adult/child RM45/5; h6.30am-11pm; g204) from Air Itam makes getting up the hill easy. Come for pleasant walks, including one through the treetops at the excellent new Habitat nature reserve, the exception to the generally tacky attractions clustered around the upper funicular station.
The HabitatNATURE RESERVE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04 -826 7677; http://thehabitat.my; Penang Hill; adult/child RM50/30; h9.30am-6pm Wed-Mon)
Bordering one of Penang's two virgin rainforest reserves, the spine of this fantastic addition to the Penang Hill experience is a finely crafted 1.6km nature trail. Along it you can access suspended walkways (thrillingly high up in the canopy), viewing platforms and pocket gardens featuring different species of tropical plants. You can explore on your own, but it's better to take one of the guided tours.
Canopy Discovery Tours (including short zip-lines and canopy bridge walks) and the Langur Tree Climb activity are set to debut in 2017, and each will incur separate charges. There are also plans for guided night walks.
Kek Lok Si TempleBUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Temple of Supreme Bliss; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://kekloksitemple.com; Jln Balik Pulau, Air Itam; h7am-6pm; g204)F
Staggered on hillside terraces overlooking Air Itam, around 8km from the centre of George Town, Malaysia's largest Buddhist temple is a visual delight. Built between 1890 and 1905, Kek Lok Si is the cornerstone of the Malay-Chinese community, which provided the funding for its two-decade-long building (and ongoing additions). Its key features are the seven-tier Ban Po Thar (Ten Thousand Buddhas Pagoda; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-828 3317; http://kekloksitemple.com; Kek Lok Si Temple, Air Itam; RM2; h8am-6pm; g204) pagoda and an awesome 36.5m-high bronze statue of Kuan Yin, goddess of mercy.
To reach the temple's main entrance, you'll have to run the gauntlet of souvenir stalls on the uphill path. You'll also pass a pond packed with turtles and the complex's vegetarian restaurant ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Air Itam; suggested donation RM8; h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun; v; g204). There's a lot of climbing of stairs involved, but at least the final bit up to the statue of Kuan Yin is covered by a funicular ( GOOGLE MAP ; one-way/return RM3/6; h8.45am-5.30pm).
Botanical GardensGARDENS
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; http://botanicalgardens.penang.gov.my/index.php/en; Waterfall Rd; h5am-8pm; g10)F
Once a granite quarry, Penang's Botanical Gardens were founded in 1884 by Charles Curtis, a tireless British plant lover who collected the original specimens and became the first curator. Today, the 30-hectare grounds include a fern rockery, an orchidarium and a lily pond. Follow the 1.5km Curtis Trail, which dips into the jungle, or hike up to Penang Hill.
Also known as the Waterfall Gardens after the stream that cascades through from Penang Hill, the grounds are populated by many long-tailed macaques. Don’t be tempted to feed them: monkeys do bite, and there’s a RM500 fine if you’re caught.
5Eating
There's a vegetarian restaurant at Kek Lok Si and plenty of hawker stalls in the market at Air Itam. Up on Penang Hill, there's a good range of inexpensive hawker food at the food court, and Western food at David Brown’s ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.penanghillco.com.my; Penang Hill; mains from RM20; hsky terrace 9am-11pm, restaurant 11am-10pm), the island's most atmospheric destination for colonial-style high tea (3pm to 6pm); the full deal for two people is RM88, or you can do just scones and tea for RM20.
Southeast Penang Island
A natural destination while making a clockwise round-island tour is the fishing port at Batu Maung. There are still some dilapidated, brightly painted boats along the coast, although the main sight to catch your eye will be the second bridge to the mainland. A good view of the bridge can be had from Sam Poh Footprint Temple, and while you're down here, you might also swing by hillside Penang War Museum.
However, the best reason for heading south is to eat freshly cooked seafood beside the lovely beach at Teluk Kumbar.
You'll find both Penang International Airport and the Sungai Nibong Bus Station, Penang's main interstate and international bus station, in the southeast of Penang Island. The area is also well connected with George Town by Rapid Penang buses, including the 307 to Batu Maung and the 401 and 401E to Teluk Kumbar. Taxis to both these destinations from George Town will cost at least RM50.
1Sights
Sam Poh Footprint TempleTEMPLE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Jln Maung; h24 hours; g302)F
This small seaside temple overlooking fishing boats and the second Penang bridge has a shrine dedicated to the legendary Admiral Zheng He. Also known as Sam Poh, his portrait is also painted on a giant boulder outside. The temple sanctifies a huge ‘footprint’ in the rock that’s reputed to belong to the famous navigator.
Penang War MuseumMUSEUM
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-626 5142; www.facebook.com/PenangWarMuseum; Bukit Batu Maung; adult/child RM37.10/18; h9am-5pm; g302)
Perched on top of the steep Bukit Batu Maung, this former British fort, built in the 1930s, was used as a prison and torture camp by the Japanese during WWII. Today, the crumbling buildings have been restored as a memorial to those dark days. Barracks, ammunition stores, cookhouses, gun emplacements and other structures can be explored in this eerie, atmospheric place, and there are information boards in English all over the site.
5Eating
oKhunthaiTHAI$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-625 1155; 1052 Mukim 9 Pasar Belanda, Teluk Kumbar; mains RM16-45; h11am-11.30pm; g401, 401E)
A blissful beachside setting, more intimate atmosphere and daytime dining gives Khunthai the edge over the neighbouring seafood restaurants at Teluk Kumbar. The steamed fish is excellent and you can choose from all the usual Thai dishes.
Hai Boey SeafoodSEAFOOD$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-649 3746; www.facebook.com/haiboeyseafoodpenang; 29 MK9 Pasir Belanda, Teluk Kumbar; mains from RM25-50; h5.30-10.30pm; g401, 401E)
Right on the beach at Teluk Kumbar, this is one of Penang's most famous destinations for seafood. Choose what you'd like to eat from the tanks at the entrance. It's best to reserve a table on weekends or holidays when it can be very busy.
WORTH A DETOUR
PULAU AMAN
For a relaxing time off the beaten track, tiny Pulau Aman (Peace Island) is perfect. Just 4.5km off the southern coast of Seberang Perai (the mainland portion of Penang state), the island is home to a fishing village of around 300 inhabitants.
It won't take you more than a couple of hours to explore the whole island. There's a small pebbly beach to the north of the village, while the southern seashore path takes you to a dead end via shady groves with rubber trees. You may also be able persuade one of the fishermen to ferry you across to neighbouring Pulau Gedung, an even smaller uninhabited island with some caves to explore.
Apart from the seaside Terapung Pulau Aman ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %016-495 5125; 120 Pulau Aman; mains from RM6; h10am-5pm) seafood restaurant, there's a simple cafe next to the jetty and one a few steps away in the heart of the kampung (village). All food served is fairly basic Malaysian dishes.
There are no guesthouses or hotels on the island but it is possible to arrange a homestay ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %013-459 0330; [email protected]; 145 Pulau Aman; day visit
/overnight full board from RM70/140), which will be in a simple village house. Expect to sleep on a mattress directly on the floor with no air-con. Meals will be included.
To reach the island you'll need to drive to the jetty at Bukit Tambun, which is close to the second bridge across to Penang Island. A small ferry ( GOOGLE MAP ; return RM7; h9am-7pm) departs every two hours from here; boats leave Pulau Aman an hour earlier.
Balik Pulau & Kampung Pulau Betong
Meaning 'on the other side of the island', Balik Pulau is Penang Island's main inland outpost. It's a busy market town with a strip of charming old shophouses surrounded by rice fields, and durian, clove and nutmeg orchards. A short drive away in the southwest corner of the island is the sleepy fishing village Kampung Pulau Betong and one of Penang's loveliest beaches.
Also worth looking out for along Balik Pulau's main street are striking murals by Siberian-born Russian artist Julia Volchkova and Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic.
My Balik Pulau (RM2), a brochure available for purchase in George Town at ottokedai, and Discover Balik Pulau, a map available at the various tourism offices, are great guides to the area's smaller attractions, culture and history.
You can reach Balik Pulau via bus 502 and 401E from George Town and Bayan Lepas respectively (RM4), and bus 501 from Teluk Bahang (RM3.40).
1Sights
Pantai Pasir PanjangBEACH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
This empty, pristine beach with white sand the texture of raw sugar is one of the prettier spots on Penang for the few who make the effort to get here. The beach is backed by a National Service Training Centre for young graduates entering the army. Be vigilant if you go into the water – there's a heavy undertow. To get here, walk 1.5km over the hill from Kampung Pulau Betong village.
Holy Name of Jesus Catholic ChurchCHURCH
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-866 8545; Jln Bukit Penara; g502, 401E, 501)F
When this Catholic church was first established in 1854, it occupied a hut made of attap palm leaves; the handsome current structure dates from 1894. The floor tiles were designed by a French priest, the stained glass was imported from Belgium, the bell from France, and the church's twin spires stand impressively against the jungle behind.
5Eating
Balik Pulau functions as a good lunch stop for anyone making a round-trip of the island. Locals have been known to cross the island for this town's signature dish: laksa Balik Pulau, a tasty rice-noodle concoction in a thick fish-broth, with shredded lettuce, mint leaves, pineapple slivers, onions and fresh chillies. You can sample it at Cafe Ko Cha Bi Balik Pulau ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-474 5178; www.facebook.com/CafeKoChaBi; 110 Jln Balik Pulau; mains RM4; h10am-6pm Fri-Wed; g502, 401E, 501).
In Kampung Pulau Betong you can buy fish and seafood at the village market stalls and bring them to Jia Siang Cafe ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %019-746 8465; 321 Mk 7 Kampung Pulau Betong; mains RM15-50; hnoon-7pm) to be cooked as you like, for around R14 per head. Or you can see what it has on the menu: it's famed for chicken wings and yam pork. It can get busy on weekends.
4Sleeping
Audi GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %04-866 2569; www.audipenang.com; Jln Pulau Betung; dm/r from RM30/90; aW)
Roughly midway between Balik Pulau and the fishing village at Kampung Pulau Betong is this basic but appealing guesthouse. Rooms offer just mattresses on wooden floors or platforms, but it's all sparklingly clean and very spacious with a cafe and bicycle rental (RM20 per day).
MalihomVILLA$$$
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %012-428 5191; www.malihom.com; Kiri N/t 168 Bukit Penara Mukim 6; villa incl breakfast from RM626; aiWs)
Accommodation at the top of this 518m peak takes the form of nine splendidly restored 100-year-old rice barns, united in a private retreat. Walk around to gawk at the 360-degree view over hills of jungle, the estate's durian orchard, the sea and several villages. Given its isolated location, you'll likely want to upgrade to full board.
Malihom is located off winding Rte 6 between Balik Pulau and Kampung Sungai Batu, at the top of a steep hill. You’ll need to be shuttled up in the resort's 4WD.
8Information
Penang Global TourismTOURIST INFORMATION
( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-264 3456; www.mypenang.gov.my; Whiteways Arcade, Lebuh Pantai; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat, to 1pm Sun)
The visitors centre of the state tourism agency is the best all-round place to go for maps, brochures and local information.
8Getting There & Away
Langkawi Ferry ServiceFERRY
(LFS; GOOGLE MAP ; %04-264 2088, 016-419 5008; www.langkawi-ferry.com; PPC Bldg, Lebuh King Edward; adult/child one way RM70/51.30; h7am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 7am-3pm Sun)
Boats leave at 8.30am and 2pm and return from Langkawi at 10.30am and 3pm. The journey each way takes between 1¾ and 2½ hours. Book a few days in advance to ensure a seat.
La BelleCAR HIRE
( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-264 2717, 016-416 0617; www.labelle.net.my; 440B Lebuh Chulia; motorycle/car per 24hr from RM30/100; h9am-1pm & 2-10pm)
DAE MotorsSCOOTER RENTAL
( GOOGLE MAP ; %04-263 8286; www.daemotors.com; 132 Jln Dr Lim Chwee Leong; per 24hr RM50; h9am-6pm)
Do your bit for the environment by renting one this outfit's electric scooters. One fully charged scooter should get you around the island but, if not, there are charging stations where you can plug in. Riding one will guarantee you get into fun conversations with curious locals.
Understand Kuala Lumpur
Kuala Lumpur Today
The government is pushing forward with the transformation of KL thanks to major transport and construction projects.
History
How a tin-mining outpost in the jungle of a British colony emerged as the capital of modern-day Malaysia.
Life in Kuala Lumpur
Insights into the daily routines of KLites, their work, family and social lives.
Multiculturalism, Religion & Culture
Malaysia's three main ethnic groups bring a rich mix of religion and customs to the cultural table.
Arts & Architecture
Get a handle on the creative output and built environs of the city.
Environment
As the capital of a 'mega-diversity' country, how green is KL's environmental scorecard?
Kuala Lumpur Today
While KLites get on with day-to-day life with good cheer, tensions simmer beneath the surface of this modern, multicultural city. Prime Minister Najib Razak has tightened his grip on power in the face of ongoing allegations of corruption and a faltering economy. Meanwhile, it's full steam ahead on major infrastructure developments for the capital, including a new mass rapid transit (MRT) line and the River of Life urban-regeneration project.
Best on Film
Entrapment (1999) The climax of this Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta-Jones thriller takes place at KL’s Petronas Towers.
Sepet (2004) Chinese boy falls for Malay girl in Yasmin Ahmad’s romantic comedy.
Interchange (2016) Fantasy thriller set in KL that delves into the city's supernatural depths.
Best in Print
Urban Odysseys (edited by Janet Tay and Eric Forbes) Short stories that capture KL's multifaceted cultural flavour.
KL Noir Three volumes of short stories homing in on the city's sinister, spooky underbelly.
The Letter (Somerset Maugham) A short story and play based on the real-life scandal of a murder in KL in 1911.
My Life as a Fake (Peter Carey) This reworking of Frankenstein evokes the sultry side of KL.
Found in Malaysia (The Nut Graph) Compilation of 50 interviews with notable Malaysians.
The Consumption of Kuala Lumpur (Ziauddin Sardar) How the once sleepy capital has evolved into a modern economic marvel.
Najib Under Fire
Since July 2015 Malaysia’s prime minister, Najib Razak, has been implicated in an ongoing corruption scandal involving the government’s 1MBD sovereign investment fund that a
ims to turn Kuala Lumpur (KL) into a global financial hub. The fund racked up huge debts at the same time as it appears that nearly US$700 million had been transferred from it into Najib’s personal bank accounts; subsequent news reports suggest the total may exceed US$1 billion.
In July 2016 the US Department of Justice moved to seize more than US$1 billion in assets connected to the 1MDB fund and in September it was claimed that Najib was personally implicated in the suit under the moniker 'Malaysian Official 1'. In the meantime, the prime minister – who claims the transfer was a political donation and denies any wrongdoing – has shut down Malaysian investigations, clamped down on media reporting and purged critics from his ruling party.
The public remains sceptical of Najib and the ruling Barisan Nasional (BN) coalition; for the past several years the Bersih movement (which calls for fair elections) has been organising protest rallies in KL and across the country. Tens of thousands have marched in the streets dressed in yellow T-shirts and tops, the colour of Bersih. At KL rallies in 2015 and 2016 they were joined by former prime minister Mahathir Mohamad, who has been vocal in his demands that Najib resign.
Lonely Planet Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang Page 32