by Anna Post
Makes approximately 1 pound
1 pound unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 tablespoon Ancho chile powder
¼ cup honey
Whisk all the ingredients together until smooth. Serve at room temperature. Leftovers can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.
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Lizzie’s playlist
FOR A HOT SUMMER NIGHT
Inspired by the movie The Divine Secrets of the Ya-Ya Sisterhood, Lizzie chose three artists from the sound track to set the mood for a sultry summer’s night—Ann Savoy with her Cajun flair and bluegrass-folk sound, Jimmy Reed for a soft, vintage backyard sound, and legendary blues artist Taj Mahal.
Ann Savoy
“C’est Si Triste”
“Lulu Revenue dans la Village”
“C’est un Péché de Dire un Mentire”
“Mélodie au Crépuscule”
“The Very Thought of You”
“Getting Some Fun out of Life”
“Ces Petites Choses”
“It’s Like Reaching for the Moon”
“Si Tu Savais”
“The Way You Look Tonight”
Jimmy Reed
“Big Boss Man”
“Baby What Do You Want Me to Do?”
“You Got Me Dizzy”
“I Ain’t Got You”
“Shame, Shame, Shame”
“Goin’ to New York”
“Ain’t That Lovin’ You, Baby”
“Found Love”
Taj Mahal
“Hesitation Blues”
“You’ve Got to Love Her with a Feeling”
“Lovin’ in My Baby’s Eyes”
“Queen Bee”
“Sittin’ on Top of the World”
“Nobody’s Business but Your Own”
“Early in the Morning”
“Come on in My Kitchen”
“Lonely Avenue”
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The Perfect Picnic
An alfresco picnic makes us feel liberated, free from the conventions of the table. A picnic always has an element of adventure and spontaneity, whether it’s an elaborate feast in a field of wildflowers or a simple lunch in a public garden, a romantic evening on the beach or an afternoon under a shady tree with the Sunday paper. Let your imagination go wild: You’re limited only by how much you can transport and how well it will travel. Ideally, everything should be ready to serve when you happen upon your ideal picnic spot.
Half the fun of preparing a picnic is foraging for yummy ingredients, something special you don’t eat every day. One of the simplest picnics, in the European tradition, consists of little more than a loaf of bread, cheese, some olives, salami, fruit, and a bottle of wine. If you take care to pick the best of these ingredients, you’ll have a spectacular, but still affordable, feast. If you want to expand it further, you can add a tomato and basil salad or a curried chicken salad (ready to serve from a container) or soup (hot or cold in a thermos to be poured into mugs). To up the elegance factor, pack chutney, honey, or jam to go with the bread and cheese, opt for prosciutto instead of salami, and finish with a fruit tart or pastry and sparkling wine.
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Picnic Gear
• Blanket, tablecloth, oilcloth, or ground cloth • Cushion(s) or folding chairs • Umbrella (if there’s no shade) • Glassware, mugs, plastic or paper cups • Enamel, melamine, bamboo, or paper plates • Cutlery or reusable utensils • Cloth or paper napkins and/or WetNaps • Salt and pepper in shakers • Knives for cutting bread, cheese, and meat • Cutting board or plate • Corkscrew and/or bottle opener • Thermos for hot and/or cold drinks or soup • Cold packs • Bottle of water—just in case • Flashlight, lantern, or candles in tall jars • Jar for flowers • Bug spray • Sunscreen • Matches in a waterproof bag • Tea towels or paper towels • Plenty of garbage bags • Basket, tote, backpack, or cooler to transport food, beverages, and picnic gear
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Four Seasonal Picnics
SPRING
Louise’s Spring Pea Soup
(page 145)
Smoked Salmon, Goat Cheese, Black Pepper,
Red Onion, and Capers on Baguette
or
Melon Seed Pasta Salad with Roasted
Asparagus and Prosciutto (page 166)
Asparagus with Champagne Vinaigrette
(page 12)
Cherries and Almond Dream Cookies
(page 169)
SUMMER
Cold Grilled Chicken or Large Shrimp
Salad of Cherry Tomatoes and Fresh Corn
with Mozzarella and Basil
or
Green Bean and Potato Salad with
Caesar Dressing (page 13)
Baguette
Strawberries and Shortbread Cookies
FALL
Ham and Brie Sandwiches with Honey
Mustard Butter on Baguette
Bulgur Salad with Dried Cherries
and Pumpkin Seeds
(page 167)
Grapes, Apples, Figs
Little Espresso Brownies
(page 170)
WINTER
Creamy Mushroom Soup with Sweet
and Hot Paprikas
(page 168)
Roast Beef Sandwiches with Fresh
Horseradish Sauce
Orange and Fennel Salad with Olive Oil
and Red Onion
Grappa and Biscotti
Melon Seed Pasta Salad with Roasted Asparagus and Prosciutto
In springtime we think of this fresh, pink-and-green salad. Made with our favorite pasta (which is indeed shaped just like melon seeds, but you can also substitute orzo), it’s the perfect foil to slightly crisp asparagus and soft, salty prosciutto. Lemon zest and plenty of fresh black pepper provide the punctuation. Serves 8
½ pound medium-thick fresh asparagus, tough stem ends snapped off
7 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
1 pound dried semolina melon seed (semi de melone) or orzo pasta
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (see Note)
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ pound thinly sliced prosciutto, cut into ½-inch squares
1 tablespoon finely chopped lemon zest
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for serving (optional)
Butter (Bibb) lettuce leaves, arugula, or mesclun, for serving (optional)
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 500°F. Line 1 or 2 half-sheet baking pans with parchment paper. On the paper, toss the asparagus with 3 tablespoons of the oil and 1 teaspoon of salt. Spread the asparagus in a single layer. Bake, stirring once, until the asparagus is just crisp-tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Do not overcook; the asparagus will continue to cook on the pan after they come out of the oven. Cool to room temperature. Cut the asparagus diagonally into 1-inch pieces.
Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to the package directions, stirring once or twice, until barely tender, about 8 minutes. Drain, rinse under cold water, and drain again.
In a large bowl, whisk together the remaining 4 tablespoons of oil, the lemon juice, ½ teaspoon of pepper, and ½ teaspoon of salt. Add the pasta, asparagus, prosciutto, lemon zest, and parsley and toss well. Adjust the seasoning—we like lots of black pepper. (Depending on the saltiness of the prosciutto, additional salt may not be needed.)
Serve immediately, or cover tightly and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. Return the salad to room temperature, adjust the seasoning once again, and toss just before serving.
Note: To serve as a first-course plated salad, line 8 salad plates with the greens and divide the pasta evenly among the plates, mounding it in the center. Garnish with an additional sprinkling of chopped or plucked parsley.
Bulgur Salad with Dried Cherries and Pumpkin Seeds
Nutty, crunchy, moist, and wholesome, this salad is attractive, too, with re
d cherries, scallions, and pumpkin seeds in colorful polka dots. Since it travels well, take it along with sandwiches on a picnic or put out a big platter on a buffet. (Tuck some watercress, baby lettuce, or frisée around the edges when you do this, and be sure to use the maximum amount of orange juice in the dressing to keep it moist.) Serves 6 to 8
2½ cups boiling water
2 cups medium-grain bulgur (cracked wheat)
½ cup raw pumpkin seeds
¾ cup chopped cilantro
½ cup coarsely chopped tart dried cherries
¼ cup diagonally sliced scallions (tender tops included)
4 to 6 tablespoons fresh orange juice
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped orange zest
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
In a medium heatproof bowl, pour the boiling water over the bulgur. Let stand, stirring once or twice, until the bulgur is cool and has absorbed all the water. (If it remains watery after 45 minutes, drain it for a few minutes in a strainer.) Fluff the bulgur with a fork, spread it on a sheet pan, and let stand uncovered at room temperature to dry out. (It won’t become bone-dry, but it shouldn’t be soggy.)
Meanwhile, in a small, heavy skillet over medium heat, toast the pumpkin seeds, stirring often, until they are lightly colored and beginning to pop, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the skillet immediately and cool to room temperature.
In a large bowl, combine the bulgur, cilantro, pumpkin seeds, cherries, scallions, 4 tablespoons of orange juice, the olive oil, orange zest, 1 teaspoon of salt, and ¾ teaspoon of pepper. Toss to combine. Adjust the seasoning (add the additional orange juice if you think the salad needs it) and toss again.
The salad can be held for several hours, covered, at room temperature or it can be refrigerated overnight. Return it to room temperature before serving.
Creamy Mushroom Soup with Sweet and Hot Paprikas
Serves 6 to 8
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup chopped leeks (white and pale green parts of 2 medium leeks)
1 cup chopped shallots
½ cup chopped celery
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons hot paprika
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
5 cups chicken stock or reduced-sodium canned chicken broth, preferably organic
2 pounds brown (cremini) or white cultivated mushrooms, trimmed and thinly sliced
Kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
11/3 cups sour cream, whisked until smooth, plus additional sour cream for serving
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill, plus additional dill for serving
In a large pot over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the leeks, shallots, celery, and garlic. Cover and cook, stirring once or twice, for 10 minutes. Sprinkle the flour and paprikas over the vegetables, lower the heat, and cook, stirring and mashing often without browning or burning (the mixture will be dry), for 3 minutes. Gradually whisk in the stock, then add the mushrooms, 1 teaspoon of salt, and the pepper. The soup will look impossibly thick at this point, but persevere. Bring to a simmer, partially cover, and cook, stirring once or twice, until the mushrooms are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool slightly.
In a food processor, puree half the soup (or, for a smooth soup, puree all of it). Return the pureed portion of the soup to the pan. The soup can be prepared to this point up to 3 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate.
Set the pan of soup over low heat. Whisk in the sour cream; stir in the dill. Heat, stirring often, until steaming; do not boil or the sour cream will curdle. Adjust the seasoning. Ladle the soup into bowls, top each portion with a small dollop of sour cream and a sprinkle of dill, and serve hot.
Almond Dream Cookies
These are Carrie Brown’s version of meltaways, eggless confectioners’ sugar–based cookies popular in the fifties. They’re fun, easy cookies to make with children. Makes about 40
¼ cup blanched slivered almonds
2¼ cups sifted cake flour, not self-rising
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 sticks unsalted butter, softened
½ cup sifted confectioners’ sugar, plus extra for dusting the cookies
1 teaspoon almond extract
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. In a shallow metal pan, toast the almonds, stirring them once or twice until they are crisp, fragrant, and lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Remove from the pan immediately and cool.
Onto a piece of wax paper, sift together the flour, salt, and cinnamon.
In a medium bowl, with an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the butter until smooth. Add the sugar and cream until fluffy, then add the almond and vanilla extracts and blend in well. Add the dry ingredients and mix on low speed until incorporated.
Drop by teaspoonfuls onto parchment-lined or ungreased baking sheets, spacing about 1 inch apart (the cookies don’t spread much). Top each cookie with an almond sliver. Bake until firm on top and lightly browned on the bottom, about 8 minutes.
Transfer the cookies to wire cooling racks. Dust the cookies with confectioners’ sugar, using a fine-mesh sieve to sift it over them. The cookies can be eaten immediately, stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week, or frozen for up to 1 month. Layer them in the storage container between layers of parchment or wax paper and dust them again with confectioners’ sugar if necessary just before serving.
Little Espresso Brownies
Fudgy and moist, not too sweet, these brownies allow the dark chocolate flavor to shine. They’re chock-full of toasted walnuts and a hint of espresso for grown-up complexity. Full-sized, they make extravagant picnic sweets, while cut into more manageable morsels, they star on cookie platters or dress up a dessert of ice cream or sorbet. For the ultimate sundae, top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and warm chocolate sauce. Makes 16 large (2¼" × 3¼") or 30 small (1½" × 2½") brownies
2 cups walnuts
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour (measure it by scooping the cup into the flour container and then sweeping it level)
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened good-quality cocoa powder, preferably Sharffen Berger or Valrhona
1 tablespoon powdered instant espresso, such as Medaglia D’Oro
¾ teaspoon salt
6 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped (use the best available, like Sharffen Berger)
½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch chunks
5 large eggs, at room temperature
2½ cups sugar
½ cup sour cream
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly butter a 9- by 13-inch rectangular metal baking pan. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper; lightly butter the parchment.
In a shallow metal pan, toast the walnuts, stirring occasionally, until crisp, lightly browned, and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the pan immediately, cool to room temperature, and coarsely chop. Increase the oven temperature to 400°F.
Sift together the flour, cocoa, espresso powder, and salt.
In a medium bowl set over a pan of simmering water, combine the chocolate and butter. Heat, stirring once or twice with a wooden spoon, until melted and smooth. Remove the bowl from the hot water and let stand on a rack while preparing the rest of the batter.
In a large bowl with a hand mixer on medium-high or in the bowl of a stand mixer on medium, beat the eggs until light and foamy. Using the same speed setting, gradually beat in the sugar. Increase the speed to high and beat for 18 minutes with a hand mixer or 15 minutes for a stand mixer. Reduce the mixer speed to low, add the sour cream and vanilla, and beat until just incorporated. Add the chocolate mixture and
mix on low until just barely blended into the batter. Add the dry ingredients and mix until just moistened. Fold the nuts into the batter by hand. Scrape the dough into the prepared pan and level it with a spreader.
Bake for 18 minutes. Reverse the position of the pan on the oven rack from front to back and continue to bake until the top of the brownies just begin to pull away from the sides of the pan, another 10 to 12 minutes (monitor closely). The top will be set and feel firm while a tester inserted into the center will come out with a few crumbs still clinging to it. Your kitchen will smell fragrant with chocolate. Cool the brownies in the pan on a rack to room temperature. Wrap the pan tightly with plastic or foil and refrigerate until cold, at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours. The brownies can also be frozen in the pan for up to 1 month. Thaw in the refrigerator before removing from the pan and cutting.
To cut the brownies, carefully run a knife around the edges. Flip the pan over onto a cutting board; the brownies will drop out. (Give the bottom of the pan a rap if the brownies seem reluctant.) Lift away the pan and peel off the parchment paper. Flip the brownies back over (right side up). With a long, thin-bladed knife, wiped occasionally between cuts with a damp kitchen towel, trim the slightly drier edges off the brownie if desired (save these for kitchen nibbling). Cut the brownies into quarters and then evenly divide each quarter into 4 rectangles. We use a ruler to accomplish this.
Serve cold or at room temperature. Individually wrap leftover brownies in plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 1 week.
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Minding Your Picnic P’s and Q’s
* Be respectful of private property—don’t trespass. Always ask permission and leave the area just like (or even better than) you found it.
* Be respectful of public picnic areas—clean off tables, and leave cooking areas clean and neat.
* Remember the hiker’s rule: Pack it in, pack it out, or “take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints.”
* “Fluff” the ground you sat on so it isn’t matted down.