Ingenious rice cooker manufacturers have made a large 10-cup, 10-inch-diameter model, fitted with a double tier of plastic steaming baskets, specifically designed to mimic the two-tiered bamboo steamer with a thermostatically controlled heating element. A set of heat-resistant plastic steamer baskets set snugly set into the rice cooker bowl and there is a tempered glass cover, for easy viewing of the food while it cooks. The diameter of the basket is 9 inches, a size that makes cooking for one or eight a snap. Alternatively, you can steam in any of the on/off rice cookers using your own set of bamboo steamers set on top, as long as they fit properly.
Most of the models of on/off machines we tested came with a perforated metal steamer tray that fits into the top of the rice cooker bowl (this type of tray would not fit properly in a machine with a hinged cover). One model came with a small steamer plate that looks like a baking rack and fits into the bottom of the bowl. In lieu of the tray, you can use the folding metal or plastic expanding basket insert easily available in supermarkets and cookware stores; just set it in the bottom of the cooker on the round steamer plate to protect the bottom of the rice bowl. This is perfect for steaming vegetables for one or two people. While the basket setup is best used with a liner such as greaseproof cooking parchment, cabbage, chard, or corn husks to prevent the food from sticking, a heatproof shallow baking dish or Pyrex pie plate can also be set inside the basket if it has no center post. The metal or plastic steamer tray can be used with a simple coating of nonstick cooking spray or lined.
We use our steamer equipment not only for making little meals and steaming vegetables, but for tamales, dim sum, and dolmas, all of which are cooked with steam. For dessert, the rice cooker makes remarkably easy and delicious cup-custards and the best steamed puddings.
THE BASICS : STEAMING KNOW- HOW
Be sure you distinguish the difference among the three types of steamer equipment that may have come with your machine (some machines come with no steaming equipment, others with one or more of the following): One is a round metal trivet, called a steamer plate, that sits in the bottom of the rice cooker; this is for holding heat-resistant plates and pudding molds. The second is a steamer tray that fits into the top of on/off machines with a separate lid. This tray is good for steaming vegetables, a heat-resistant plate, and individual custard cups, but you will probably need to steam in batches. The third is a set of heat-resistant stacked plastic steamer baskets. The recipes that follow are specific about what type of equipment is best to use.
Use good-quality ingredients in perfect condition. Tainted vegetables and other foods get worse tasting, as steam accentuates the natural flavors. Use lean meats, such as chicken, and fish, which do not need lengthy cooking times. Use fully thawed food.
Make sure the cover fits tightly. If it doesn’t, the steam and built-up pressure from the moist heat will escape and the food will not cook properly.
Place very hot water in the rice cooker bowl, then turn on the cooker. Our cookers efficiently heat to a low boil and start filling with steam after about 10 minutes.
Place the food baskets over very hot to boiling water and then start the cooking time. If you place the food over the water, then turn the cooker on and have to wait for the water to heat up, the food will not start cooking immediately and that will change the cooking time.
Baskets and steamer plates need to be coated with nonstick cooking spray or lined with greaseproof cooking parchment, a layer of cheesecloth, whole cabbage or chard leaves, or corn husks to prevent the food from sticking or dripping.
Arrange the food in the steamer basket in a single layer, and leave space between the bottom of the next basket or lid, for proper circulation of the steam during cooking.
Do not allow the boiling water in the cooking bowl to touch the food or you will not have enough room for the steam to build up. The baskets should be at least 3 inches above the liquid; never fill the bowl more than two-thirds full of liquid. In the large cooker, we fill to the 4- or 5-cup line, which is about one-third full. With the cover on tight, you will lose about 1 to 1½ inches of water per half hour through evaporation.
Be certain that the liquid level is maintained during the cooking time. If the liquid evaporates, fill with more boiling water to maintain the cooking temperature.
Make certain the foods—meat, fish, vegetables, tofu, noodles, cold rice—are of a similar size so they will cook in the same amount of time.
Food from the upper basket will often drip below, so line the basket or place stronger-tasting foods on the lower level. Allow for at least an extra 5 minutes of cooking time for the upper basket since it is farther away from the source of the steam.
Check the cooked food for doneness. If it is not completely cooked through or to your liking, no matter what the time on the recipe says, continue to cook and check at 10-minute intervals until the desired degree of doneness is achieved.
DRESSING UP YOUR VEGETABLES
A little bit of a good sauce or marinade goes a long way toward enhancing a simple plate of steamed vegetables. Imaginative butters or oils from your pantry, or freshly made sauces and marinades, add flavor. The butters keep nicely in the freezer, the oils last for weeks, and the Balsamic Vegetable Marinade tastes good on hot or cold vegetables.
Wine Butter
YIELD: ½ cup
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
1 shallot, minced
2 tablespoons dry white wine or flat champagne
1 tablespoon minced fresh Italian parsley leaves
1. In a small saucepan, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook, stirring a few times, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook for 15 seconds. Add the parsley and stir. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool to room temperature.
2. In a food processor, combine the remaining 7 tablespoons butter and the wine mixture; pulse a few times to combine. Scrape the butter out onto a piece of plastic wrap and, using your hands through the plastic wrap, shape it into a thick log. Roll up and twist the ends to seal. Store in the refrigerator or freezer for up to 2 months.
3. Before serving, cut the log into ½-inch-thick slices to top hot steamed vegetables.
Orange-Chive Butter
YIELD: ½ cup
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives
Grated zest of ½ orange
1. In a food processor, combine the butter, chives, and zest; pulse a few times to combine.
2. Scrape the butter out onto a piece of plastic wrap and, using your hands through the plastic wrap, shape into a thick log. Roll up and twist the ends to seal. Store in the refrigerator or freezer for up to 1 month.
3. Before serving, cut the log into ½-inch-thick slices to top hot steamed vegetables.
Fresh Herb Butter
YIELD: ½ cup
½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh herb leaves, such as marjoram, sage, rosemary, basil, tarragon, dill, or thyme
Grated zest of ½ lemon
1. In a food processor, combine the butter, herb, and zest; pulse a few times to combine.
2. Scrape the butter out onto a piece of plastic wrap and, using your hands through the plastic wrap, shape into a thick log. Roll up and twist the ends to seal. Store in the refrigerator or freezer for up to 1 month.
3. Before serving, cut the log into ½-inch-thick slices to top hot steamed vegetables.
Balsamic Vegetable Marinade
YIELD: 1 cup
⅓ cup balsamic vinegar
⅓ cup reduced-sodium soy sauce
⅓ cup cold-pressed or Asian sesame oil
Whisk the ingredients together in a small bowl. Pour over warm steamed vegetables and let stand for 1 hour at room temperature to meld the flavors. If not serving the vegetables within an hour, cover and refrigerate.
Cilantro Pesto
YIELD: ½ cup
2 c
loves garlic, peeled
1 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves
4 fresh basil leaves
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup light olive oil
1. In a food processor with the motor running, drop the garlic in through the feed tube to chop. Stop the machine and add the cilantro, basil, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper; pulse a few times to combine. With the machine running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil; the mixture will become smooth.
2. Right before serving, thin the pesto with a few tablespoons of hot vegetable steaming water. Serve the pesto drizzled over hot or cold steamed vegetables. Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.
Asian Spiced Oil
YIELD: 1 cup
1 cup cold-pressed peanut oil
1½ tablespoons Asian sesame oil
1 tablespoon red pepper flakes
4 cloves garlic, quartered
1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
Grated zest of ½ lemon
Few grinds of freshly ground black pepper or ¼ teaspoon cracked black peppercorns
1. In a small saucepan, combine all the ingredients. Warm over low heat for 5 minutes. Do not overheat or let come to a boil.
2. Remove from the heat and let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes.
3. Place a fine strainer or double layer of cheesecloth over a 2-cup measuring cup; strain the oil into the cup and discard the solids. Pour the oil into a cruet with a cover or cork, or a pint spring-top jar. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.
4. Drizzle the oil on hot or cold steamed vegetables.
Savory Vanilla Oil
While vanilla is usually associated with sweet flavors, it is a marvelous savory accent. Drizzle over your warm or room temperature steamed vegetables.
YIELD: 1 cup
1 cup light olive oil or canola oil
1 vanilla bean (3 to 4 inches), split lengthwise to expose the seeds
1. In a small saucepan, combine the olive oil and vanilla bean. Warm over medium-low heat for 10 minutes. Do not boil, but let the oil get very hot.
2. Remove from the heat and let stand at room temperature for 8 hours or overnight, lightly covered.
3. Remove the vanilla bean and discard. Pour the oil into a cruet with a cover or cork, or a pint spring-top jar. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.
4. Drizzle the oil on hot or cold steamed vegetables, especially artichokes, or hot steamed rice.
Tofu-Miso Mayonnaise
This is such a wonderful sauce for vegetables. If you use the soft or silken tofu, the dressing will be pourable; if you use firm tofu, it will be more like regular mayonnaise. You can find miso at the supermarket, health food store, or Asian market.
YIELD: 1½ cups
½ small clove garlic, peeled
½-inch-thick coin-size chunk fresh ginger, peeled
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 tablespoon white miso (light)
1 teaspoon honey
2 teaspoons Colman’s dry mustard
½ pound (1 cup) soft or silken tofu
2 tablespoons olive oil or Asian sesame oil
1. In a food processor with the motor running, drop in the garlic and ginger through the feed tube to mince. Stop the machine and add the vinegar, miso, honey, and mustard; pulse a few times to combine. Add the tofu and pulse until smooth. With the machine running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Process for 30 seconds; the mixture will be smooth and thick.
2. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour to chill and meld the flavors. Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 day.
3. Serve the mayonnaise spooned over hot or cold steamed vegetables.
whole-meal steam CUISINE
Steamed Chicken Breasts on Wild Rice with Gingered Tomato Relish
Steamed Chicken Breasts with Warm Mango Sauce and Coconut Rice
Steamed Halibut Steaks and Scallops with Sweet Red Pepper Sauce
Steamed Salmon Steaks with Pineapple Salsa
Steamed Ginger Salmon and Asparagus in Black Bean Sauce
Steamed Whole Fish
Steamed Shrimp and Jasmine Rice
Vegetable Pasta with Prosciutto and Olives
Steamed Flank Steak and Sweet Potatoes
Steamed Sausages and Sauerkraut with Champagne
Once you get comfortable using the steamer tray and baskets of your on/off rice cooker for vegetables, the next step is to create whole meals in the unit. Cuisines that utilize steam all have full-course steamed meals that are low in fat and quite quick to prepare. Rice (especially sticky short-grain japonicas) is traditionally steamed in a basket over hot water. Indian brass or tin steamers allow a full meal to be made at one time: the dal in the bottom bowl, the vegetables in the first level, and the basmati steamed on top. Our Steamed Ginger Salmon and Asparagus in Black Bean Sauce has the rice in the bottom layer and the salmon and vegetable above. The simplicity of it all is ingenious. It is an addictively convenient form of cooking and if you have limited space, you will adore it and end up creating your own versions. If you use the tiered plastic baskets, you can even carry them to the table (with the lid on!) and serve or eat directly from them.
Use the information in the previous chapter about vegetables and work within your seasonal availability to prepare meals that combine one or more mixed vegetables, Asian noodles, Italian pasta, or leftover cooked rice, and tofu, poultry, shellfish, or fish, all arranged in the steamer baskets.
First the vegetables, which usually take up most of the space. Think of it as a seasonal assortment—whatever was nice at the farmer’s market or produce section. You need only a few pieces of each (this method of cooking is very economical), so you can easily clean out the bottom drawer in the refrigerator. Spring is asparagus, green onions, the tiniest new potatoes, chopped ruby chard, and fresh peas, even some fiddle head fern fronds. Winter finds carrots, cauliflower, fennel bulb chunks, whole baby carrots, a turnip, or other roots. During the summer you can splurge on baby vegetables: zucchini with their blossoms still attached, the tiniest beets, baby spinach leaves, string beans the size of a baby’s finger. Remember that the harder the vegetable, the thinner the slice or wedge you want to cut, while softer vegetables can be in thick chunks or spears so that they all cook in the same amount of time. Balance not only the type of vegetable, but the color and different shapes to give the eye, as well as the palate, a delightful experience.
Then the protein. Four to eight ounces per person of fish, chicken, sausage, or turkey breast is all that is needed; less if you are dieting. You can mix and match here as well—a few ounces of chicken breast and a few large prawns or scallops, for example (a wonderful combination, by the way). Tofu, plain or one of the seasoned pressed varieties, is excellent steamed. Cut the poultry into thick strips rather than leaving it whole; it cooks more efficiently, with greater surface area for the steam to reach. Fillets of fish, such as sole and snapper, can be rolled up; a strip of halibut or sea bass fillet is perfect. You can steam them as is or soak for a short time in a light marinade first; our favorite for both fish and poultry is a bit of oil, lime juice and grated zest, and some onion or garlic powder.
You can certainly serve your basket meal with some plain fresh steamed rice, but steaming works well with other types of starch. Use partially precooked Asian noodles such as buckwheat soba or fresh udon; rice noodles (that soften by soaking in water for 30 minutes) or spelt noodles; or Italian pasta, such as fettuccine. Any leftover cooked grain fits well, from rice and couscous to quinoa and wheat berries. Mound the grains like a scoop of ice cream or make the pasta into a round nest, taking care to include only enough for the number of portions you are serving rather than letting it take over the whole basket.
You have prepped everything; now, for assembly. This is the fun part, arranging everything in the baskets. It is different every time. When you take off that lid, you want a little work of art; there are only a few rules. The longest-co
oking vegetables need plenty of space around them for steam to get at all sides; place them around the outside of the basket. Quicker-cooking foods, such as soft vegetables, tofu, shrimp, and noodles, can be mounded nearer to the center, getting the lesser amount of steam.
Fill the rice cooker bowl one-quarter full of hot water and close the cover. Set for the regular cycle to bring the water to a boil, which happens within 5 to 10 minutes; you can be arranging the baskets at this time. Line the steamer baskets with a single layer of chard or Napa cabbage leaves or just a piece of parchment paper. Place the filled baskets over the vigorously boiling water and cover immediately. The rice cooker will keep the water at a steady boil. Avoid peeking; you don’t want to disturb the buildup of the steam. Set a timer and steam for 10 to 20 minutes, depending on what you have in those baskets. When you do open the lid, open it away from yourself, so the steam won’t burn you. Check for doneness by first evaluating the color and look of the meat or fish; it should be plump, moist, and have lost that trans lucent raw look. If you are using shellfish such as clams or mussels, the shells will open. You know your preference as to how you like your vegetables, softer or more crisp-tender. Make notes as to combinations and timing so you can repeat your favorite meals in a flash.
You can serve a cold or hot sauce, salsa, spiced oil, compound butter, even fresh lemon mayonnaise (the vegetable chapter has lots of suggestions) with the meal, but this is purely optional.
steamed chicken breasts on wild rice with gingered tomato relish
Although this recipe employs two rice cookers, it is terribly simple, which is why it gets made so often. Originally a “gourmet-lite” recipe from former Sonoma Mission Inn chef Larry Elbert using broiled chicken breast, the recipe made the leap perfectly for the chicken breast to be marinated and steamed. A steamed chicken breast is wonderfully tender and juicy. Use this recipe as a basic one; if you don’t have time to marinate, just wash the breast in lots of fresh lemon juice and a tablespoon of olive oil. Serve on a bed of plain, fresh cooked wild rice, with a bit of the tomato relish on top.
The Ultimate Rice Cooker Page 34