2. Remove the cover and let the stock cool to lukewarm. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the stock through to strain it. Press the vegetables to extract all the liquid and discard. Divide the stock into airtight plastic freezer storage containers, leaving 2 inches at the top to allow for expansion in the freezer. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 3 to 4 days, or frozen for 3 to 6 months.
chinese vegetable stock
This is a variation on the plain vegetable stock, which I find very aromatic and perfect for making rice that will be served with prawns or chicken, even a Chinese-style paella. The addition of fresh-tasting cilantro (also known as Chinese parsley or fresh coriander), a few broken points of licorice-scented star anise (a favorite seasoning for Asian broths), and slices of spicy fresh ginger make a stock that is still quite delicately flavored. Aromatic Szechuan peppercorns, used in place of black peppercorns, are the dried berries of a shrub rather than a true pepper. They are pan-toasted to bring out their flavor and fragrance.
YIELD: About 2 quarts
3 tablespoons vegetable or peanut oil
2 yellow onions, chopped
1 bunch green onions, white and green parts, chopped
1 head garlic, unpeeled and cut in half horizontally
6 thin slices fresh ginger, unpeeled
3 carrots, cut into chunks
1 small bunch celery, with leaves, stalks pulled apart and bottoms trimmed
1 cup sliced fresh mushrooms
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon Szechuan peppercorns
6 sprigs fresh cilantro, with stems
½ star anise
1 large or 2 small dried shiitake mushrooms
½ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1. In a large stockpot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the yellow onions, green onions, garlic, and ginger and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Add the carrots, celery, fresh mushrooms, soy sauce, and water to cover by 2 inches. Partially cover and bring to a boil over high heat.
2. Meanwhile, place the peppercorns in a dry skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan frequently to prevent burning, until they smell fragrant, about 4 minutes. Add to the stock along with the cilantro, anise, dried mushrooms, and white pepper. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for about 1½ hours, partially covered, skimming off any foam that comes to the surface.
3. Remove the cover and let the stock cool to lukewarm. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the stock through to strain it. Press the vegetables to extract all the liquid and discard. Divide the stock into airtight plastic freezer storage containers, leaving 2 inches at the top to allow for expansion in the freezer. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 3 to 4 days, or frozen for 3 to 6 months.
fish stock
Fish stock is very fast to make; only about half an hour of simmering is needed to get a nicely flavored stock. Be sure to use only the bones of mild white fish, not oily fish like salmon, or else the stock will be too strong. A good alternative to homemade fish stock is to use one part bottled clam juice mixed with two parts chicken broth.
YIELD: About 1½ quarts
Heads and bones of 2 red snappers or other mild white fish (about 2½ pounds), rinsed in cold water and gills removed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium-size yellow onion, sliced
1 leek, white and green parts, washed well and chopped
3 stalks celery, with leaves, roughly chopped
1 cup dry white wine
½ small bunch fresh parsley, with stems
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
10 black peppercorns
1. In a stockpot, combine the bones and butter over medium-high heat. Cover and steam for about 4 minutes. Add the vegetables, cover, and steam for another 4 minutes. Add water to cover by 2 inches, the wine, parsley, bay leaves, thyme, and peppercorns. Partially cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook at a rapid simmer for about 35 minutes.
2. Remove the cover and let the stock cool to lukewarm. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the stock through to strain it. Press the vegetables to extract all the liquid and discard. Divide the stock into airtight plastic freezer storage containers, leaving 2 inches at the top to allow for expansion in the freezer. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 2 to 3 days, or frozen for 3 to 6 months.
dashi
Dashi is a quick all-purpose quick clear stock that is the heart of Japanese-style cooking. Made properly it is described as tasting of the sea. It calls for kombu seaweed (also called kombu), which is a thick dried kelp that is an essential ingredient in Japanese broths, and bonito flakes, pale pink shavings made from dried bonito fish fillets. Look for the seaweed and bonito flakes in an Asian grocery or the Asian food section of a well-stocked supermarket. Dashi is so quick to make that you can make it fresh each time you need it. Beth likes her version with one dried shiitake mushroom added.
YIELD: About 1 quart
4 cups cold water
1 sheet (1 ounce) kombu seaweed 3 to 4 inches square, wiped clean with a damp cloth and soaked in cold water in the refrigerator overnight
⅓ cup dried bonito flakes
1. Place the water in a medium saucepan. Add the kombu. Bring to a low boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low (if the water continues to boil, the stock will not be totally clear) and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the bonito flakes and stir. Turn off the heat and let stand for 2 minutes to allow the bonito flakes to settle. Skim off any foam.
2. Line a large colander or strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully pour the dashi through to strain it. Discard the kombu and bonito flakes. The stock is ready for use and can be refrigerated for up to 3 days, but is best used the day it is made.
sharon’s dashi
Here is a simpler stock made with only kombu (the flat seaweed covered with a whitish powder).
YIELD: 4 cups
One 1-inch square dashi kombu
4 cups water
Wipe the kombu clean with a damp cloth, but don’t remove the white powder. Place in a saucepan with the water. Bring to a boil; remove from the heat and let stand for at least 5 minutes before using.
online and mail-order RESOURCES
The following all-purpose online and mail-order resources are assembled to give you the ability to shop for a wide variety of the best quality rices and whole grains, many of which are difficult to find even in the best stocked stores. Goldmine Natural Food Company and Bob’s Red Mill are becoming bigger names in the mail-order grain business, and King Arthur’s Baker’s Catalogue and Walnut Acres are our favorite one-stop shopping resources.
Look for heirloom whole grains (such as buckwheat groats and hull-less barley), ancient grains (such as quinoa and spelt), hard-to-find regionally grown rice (such as Wild Pecan rice, Della basmati, and Bhutanese red rice), custom cereal and mixed grain blends, and Asian or Indian rices and ingredients. Most sources with equipment carry at least one type of rice cooker machine. Call the customer service departments or check online for complete catalogs and price lists.
Birkett Mills
16 Main Street
Penn Yan, NY 14527
(315) 536-3311
www.thebirkettmills.com
Buckwheat is readily available in natural food stores, in the supermarket with kosher foods, and by mail order. Birkett Mills is the major processor and source of the best buckwheat products sold in the United States today. Their buckwheat groats, grits, and kasha are marketed under the trademark of Pocono.
Bob’s Red Mill
5209 SE International Way
Milwaukee, OR 97222
(503) 654-3215
www.bobsredmill.com
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One of Beth’s favorite sources for cornmeal and whole grains, available in almost a staggering assortment. Every bean you might want to cook, from chana dal and cannellini beans to petite French green lentils, soldier beans, and Tongues of Fire beans, used for making Portuguese recipes. Buckwheat, bulgur, brown rice, farina, polenta and organic cornmeals, couscous and granola, millet, long- and short-grain white and brown basmati, sushi rice and short-grain white rice, wild rice, rye berries, spelt berries, and sea salt. Try Bob’s organic stone-ground Scottish oatmeal!
Butte Creek Mill
P.O. Box 561
Eagle Point, OR 97524
(503) 826-3531
www.buttecreekmill.com
Great stone-ground cornmeals, which come in different grinds, from an old water-powered stone mill. A treat!
The California Press
6200 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599
(707) 944-0343
www.californiapress.com
Virgin almond, pistachio, pecan, hazelnut, and walnut oils pressed by artisan craftspeople.
Chef’s Catalog
P.O. Box 620048
Dallas, TX 75262
(800) 338-3232
www.chefscatalog.com
Quality kitchenware from brand names such as All Clad, Le Creuset, KitchenAid, and Cuisinart, to name but a few. Rice cooker machines.
cooking.com
www.cooking.com
The Baking Shop on this site features the finest in bakeware and handy utensils for the home baker. The Baking Ingredients section carries an impressive array of nine hard-to-find sugars, in addition to chocolate, extracts, and farro. Rice cooker machines.
EthnicGrocer.com
www.ethnicgrocer.com
Products found around the world, from Asia (Korea, Thailand, and the Philippines) and India to Latin America and countries in between. This is the place for Greek and Turkish foods (pickled grape leaves), bulghol crushed wheat, and specialty olive oils. Order rices, semolina, blue cornmeal, crystallized ginger, pomegranate molasses, and more.
Gibbs Wild Rice
10400 Billings Road
Live Oak, CA 95953
(800) 824-4932
www.gibbswildrice.com
Premium Minnesota and California wild rice that is organically grown, without chemical fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides. Available in many grades, all delicious.
Goldmine Natural Food Company
3419 Hancock Street
San Diego, CA 92110-4307
(800) 475-FOOD
www.goldminenaturalfood.com
Organic and heirloom grains, rice, rolled oats, and a similar product line to Bob’s Red Mill and The Grain and Salt Society.
Gourmet Rice/Ellis Stansel
P.O. Box 206
Gueydan, LA 70542
(318) 536-6140
www.stanselrice.com
Louisiana-grown long-grain white and brown aromatic rice under the moniker of Gourmet Popcorn Rice. A unique artisan rice bred from a basmati-type seed from Pakistan early last century.
The Grain and Salt Society
273 Fairway Drive
Asheville, NC 28805
(800) TOP-SALT
www.celtic-seasalt.com
A great family-run company that specializes in organic and macrobiotic food products. Excellent Celtic Sea Salt, miso, tamari, umeboshi plums, organic beans, quinoa, whole-grain rye and spelt, organic buckwheat kasha, pearled barley, organic long- and short-grain brown rices, organic white and brown basmati, and organic rolled oats.
Grain Millers
11100 NE Eighth, Suite 710
Bellevue, WA 98009
(800) 443-8972
A great family-run company that specializes in organic rolled oats.
Hodgson Mill, Inc.
P.O. Box 430 Teutopolis, IL 62467
(800) 525-0177
www.hodgsonmill.com
Hodgson is a well-known Midwest supermarket staple and produces a full line of stone-ground yellow and white cornmeal and grits, cracked wheat, bulgur wheat with soy grits, barley, golden lentils, black beans, and split peas out of their three milling sites. One of Beth’s favorite sources for cornmeal.
India Plaza
www.indiaplaza.com
Excellent online source for basmati and other Indian white rices, curry powders and other spices, such as mustard seeds, dozens of dals, and Indian pickles and condiments.
The Baker’s Catalogue (King Arthur Flour)
P.O. Box 876
Norwich, VT 05055
(800) 827-6836
www.kingarthurflour.com
Brinna Sands has built her mail-order catalog to offer the best for the home baker and a wide variety of equipment; dried fruit and coconut; dried Michigan tart cherries, blueberries, and raspberries; nuts and nut oils; chocolate and cocoa; vanilla products; citrus extracts; saffron; sugars; and spices. We recommend the entire line of King Arthur flours from unbleached to whole wheat.
La Cuisine
323 Cameron Street
Alexandria, VA 22314
(800) 521-1176
www.lacuisineus.com
Valhrona chocolate, cocoa powders, Tahitian vanilla beans and extracts, glacéed fruits, candied citrus peels, dried berries, shelled pistachios, whole peeled hazelnuts. We like their India Tree sugars; we are hooked on the dark muscovado brown sugar.
Lotus Foods
El Cerrito, CA 94530
(510) 525-3137
www.lotusfoods.com or
www.worldofrice.com
Exquisite domestic white and brown jasmine rice from Lowell Farms, Bhutanese red rice, Chinese Black Rice, Argentinean Carnaroli, and Kalijira baby basmati.
Lundberg Family Farms
P.O. Box 369
Richvale, CA 95974
(916) 882-4551
www.lundberg.com
This is an excellent source for domestic brown and specialty rices. Lundberg offers Wehani, American white and brown basmati, japonica short-grain black rice, short- and long-grain brown rices, and California white Arborio. They even sell a rice cooker.
McCormick & Co. Food Service
Mail Order
226 Schilling Circle
Hunt Valley, MD 21031
(800) 322-SPICE
You can purchase bulk spices, usually in one-pound containers. Almond, vanilla, and anise extracts.
Mexican Grocer
7445 Girard Avenue, Suite 6
La Hoya, CA 92037
(858) 459-0577
www.mexgrocer.com
Latin American, Caribbean, and Spanish food items are a specialty here. Valencia medium-grain white rice and masa harina. From sausages to dried chiles and brick-red anchiote paste, even cheeses and spices. The site is in both English and Spanish.
Mountain Ark Trading Company
799 Old Leicester Highway
Asheville, NC 28806
(800) 643-8909
www.mountainark.com
Full line of organic grains and heirloom grains, such as soba gome and kibi millet, beans and rices, sea salt, miso, and macrobiotic supplies and condiments.
The Oriental Pantry
www.orientalpantry.com
Consider this site culinary Chinatown online. Over a thousand Asian food products, with the emphasis on Chinese ingredients. Here are your Shaoxing cooking wine, fermented black beans, delicious mushroom soy sauce, spices, and oyster sauces.
Penzeys Ltd. Spice House
P.O. Box 1448
Waukesha, WI 53187
(414) 574-0277
www.penzeys.com
If this resource is new to you, call immediately for their catalog. Penzeys has exemplary herbs and spices, both whole and ground, extracts, and spice blends. The spices are very specialized: true cinnamon from Ceylon and cassia cinnamon from Indonesia (Korintje), China (Tunghing), and Vietnam (our favorite). They also have chili powders, hot or sweet curry powders (try their Maharajah-style blend), mustard seeds, ro
semary, saffron, and single- or double-strength vanilla extracts from Madagascar, Tahiti, and Mexico (hard to find). Their gift boxes defy description; one is an eight-jar Indian curry selection (hand-mixed to boot!) that includes hot and sweet curry powders, Punjabi Garam Masala, Maharajah Curry Powder, Tandoori Seasoning, Rogan Josh Seasoning (Pakistani-style spicy spices), Vindaloo (includes cinnamon, mustard, chili, Tellicherry pepper, and cardamom from the Malabar Coast), and Balti Seasoning, a spice mixture with Persian, Chinese, and Tibetan influences. Wow!
Quickspice.com
www.quickspice.com
An excellent resource for Asian food and cookware available direct from the supplier. Search the site by cuisine—Japanese, Chinese, or Thai—for tools, ingredients, and tableware to re-create your favorite dishes. Rice cooker machines.
RiceTec, Inc.
P.O. Box 1305
Alvin, TX 77512
(800) 232-RICE
www.riceselect.com
Texas-grown Texmati, Jasmati, Kasmati, Sushi Rice, and Risotto Rice under the RiceSelect label. These are excellent domestic rices.
Specialty Rice, Inc.
1000 West First Street
Brinkley, AR 72021
(870) 734-1233
www.dellarice.com
Della Gourmet is our homegrown Arkansas basmati and considered an American artisan rice. Also Basmati White and Natural Brown Rice, Jasmine White and Natural Brown Rice, Arborio White Rice, Indian Basmati, and Koshi Hikari White Rice. Limited distribution west of the Rockies. If you are a rice connoisseur, you will want to try these rices.
Sur La Table
www.surlatable.com
Distinctive cooking products sourced from suppliers throughout Europe that include an exclusive line of small appliances like rice cookers, cutlery, kitchen tools, tableware, hard-to-find gadgets, and seasonal and specialty foods. Rice cooker machines.
Tavolo
www.tavolo.com
High-quality cookware, baking and pastry tools, and specialty foods. Products include pure citrus oils, amaranth, Lotus Foods’ Bhutanese Red Rice and Forbidden Rice, and Valrhona chocolate.
The Ultimate Rice Cooker Page 48