by Clint Willis
Henry Barber encouraged my efforts and told me some hilarious stories about the ’70s British climbing scene. Ed Webster shared his recollections of British climbers and his own hard-won knowledge of the Everest region. Ed read a late version of my manuscript, helped with photo research and offered generous encouragement as well as advice that saved me from a dozen or so editorial pratfalls.
I am grateful to Margaret Body of the Boardman Tasker Trust, Alex Messenger of the British Mountaineering Council and Margaret Trinder at Chris Bonington’s office; all three fielded various queries and helped me track down climbers or their survivors.
Frances Daltrey at the Chris Bonington Picture Library did a wonderful job finding photographs. She fielded almost two years worth of my e-mails and phone calls, and did so with a bracing mix of tact, skill, courtesy and good cheer. Beverly Davis helped introduce the book to my friends in Louisiana. Shawneric Hachey of 15thminute.com created the book’s website (theboysofeverest.com). John Hendren went way out of his way to help promote the book. Peter Kadzis went above and beyond the call of friendship to encourage my efforts and help promote the book. Hilary Roberts at the Writing Company made important administrative and editorial contributions, shepherding the manuscript through countless drafts with extraordinary patience and skill. Carol Pickering also provided timely and skillful editorial assistance. Katie Fagan photographed me for the book jacket and website.
The editorial team at Avalon Publishing Group have been true friends to my work and to the greater cause of books and stories. I can only mention a few of them here: Yulia Borodyanskaya handled foreign rights with grace and aplomb. Wendie Carr worked hard to publicize the book, and handled my many inquiries with exquisite patience. Sarah Coglianese provided generous and tactful marketing advice. Shaun Dillon fielded my endless requests with great patience. Linda Kosarin told me stories about her accomplished and adventurous father, and fought to acquire just the right cover photograph for the book. Michele Martin provided encouragement and support. Jamie McNeely oversaw production with impressive grace and skill. India Amos designed the book. (Nice Job, India!). John Oakes generously supported efforts to publicize the book. Mike Walters helped with scheduling and other issues.
I am enormously grateful to family, friends and others who read and responded to various drafts. They include Al Alvarez, Henry Barber, Gary Belsky, Chris Bonington, Paul Braithwaite, Ellen Brodkey, Charles Clarke, John Climaco, Maria Coffey, Jim Curran, Michael Finkle, John Hendrin, Mike Jewell, Peter Kadzis, John Manderino, Lawrence Millman, Jean Nathan, Bob Porter, Annie Proulx, Hilary (Boardman) Rhodes, Mike Sager, Jay Schwamm, Doug Scott, Ruth Seifert, Paul Tasker, Ian Turnbull, Ed Webster, Abner Willis, Charles Perry Willis Sr., Elizabeth Faison Cooper Willis, Harper Willis, Jennifer Schwamm Willis and Martin Wragg.
This book owes a great deal to the friendship and professional talents of dozens of people who have been associated with the Writing Company, including former staff as well as current freelance associates and clients. Their ranks include John Bishop, Michaela Cavallero, Ellie Chatto, Sean Donahue, Shawn Hachey, Nate Hardcastle, Diane Harris, Beth Helfont, Mark Klimek, Bob Lightfoot, Nat May, Ned May, Carol Pickering, Hilary Roberts, Mike Robbins, Eric Schurenberg, Taylor Smith, March Truedsson and many others.
Thanks also are due to many friends in California, Louisiana, Maine, New York, Wyoming and elsewhere. I love you all.
Michael Jewell continues to teach me about climbing, compassion and friendship. Ian Turnbull and Jay Pistono also have helped to teach me how to have fun and stay safe in the mountains. Steve Longenecker took me climbing when it counted most.
The late Harold Brodkey took me and my work seriously from the start. The late Neill Jeffrey was amazingly kind to me and mine.
Oz and Mona Hanley never waver.
Will Balliett, Publisher of Carroll & Graf, encouraged and sustained this venture from its earliest stage through its completion, often taking precious time from other pressing obligations. I cannot imagine a better collaborator or a better friend to me and to my work.
I wish to express my deep gratitude to my father and mother (Charles Perry Willis Sr. and Elizabeth Faison Cooper Willis) and to my brother (Charles Perry Willis Jr.) and sister (Elizabeth Anne Willis McFarlain). They are all my beloved teachers.
Patrizia Levi, Susan Kohaut, Jeri Sides and the late Judy Mello Schwamm also have been my teachers.
Jennifer and Harper and Abner remind me that the universe wants me to be happy . . . which must explain why I am smiling as I write these words.
INDEX
A
Alpine style climbing, 425, 445, 450, 478
Alps, 10, 11–12, 13, 14–15, 18, 46–53, 63–64
altitude, effects of, 262, 417, 474–475
acclimatization, 437, 474, 475
hallucinations, 270, 302–303, 397, 480
headaches, 164
high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), 364–365
strokes, 491–492, 492–494
Ang Phurba (Sherpa), 214, 215, 216, 390, 398
Annapurna, 40, 155
Annapurna expedition, 146–192
financing, 152, 153
media coverage, 153–154, 189, 193
peak reached, 187
significance, for climbers’ careers, 175–176, 193–194
strategy, 168
supplies, lost, 178
team, 148–152, 153, 154, 170–171
Annapurna South Face (Bonington), 193
au cheval, 235
avalanches, 25–26, 47, 58, 59–60, 60–61, 177, 190, 191–192, 207, 249, 251, 253–254, 279, 372, 395, 396, 398, 476, 503
climbers, trapped by, 430–433
protection from, 452–453, 454
B
Bahuguna, Harsh, 196, 213
Barclays Bank, 239, 241, 248
Barry, John, 414, 417–418, 419
BBC (British Broadcasting Corporation), 142, 189, 193, 225, 240, 243, 261, 281, 513
Bettembourg, Georges, 388, 390, 393, 406, 407, 413, 436, 468
bivouacs. see also MacInnes Box; snow caves, for shelter; Whillans Box
Alpine, 30, 33, 66
covered by avalanche, 430–432
Death Bivouac, Eiger, 114–115, 125
Blach, Richard, 18–19, 33, 34
Boardman, Peter, 241–242, 243–244, 248, 251, 261, 275–276, 279–280, 287
and Al Rouse, 467
and the British Mountaineering Council, 289, 291, 306, 308
early career, 288–289
education, 289
on Everest, 485, 487
father’s illness, 414, 421–422
Gauri Sankar expedition, 413–421
and Hilary Collins, 388–389, 472, 480
illnesses and injuries, 391–392, 393, 398, 464
and Joe Tasker, 306–307, 308, 320, 504–507
on K2, 368, 371–372, 422–439
on Kangchenjunga, 388, 389, 391
on Kongur, 445, 454, 458, 459, 464
and Mick Burke’s death, 290–291, 317
reputation, 336
The Shining Mountain, 414, 470
Bonatti Pillar (Southwest Pillar of Dru), 11–12, 18–35
Bonatti, Walter, 12, 22, 47–48, 51, 368
Bonington children, 102, 140–142, 142, 225, 387
Bonington, Chris, 1, 101–102
aging, 479, 490, 511–512
Annapurna South Face, 193
childhood and family, 6–9, 380–381
climbing career, 72–73, 88, 139, 175, 226–227, 335, 336, 444, 512
illnesses and injuries, 25, 139, 364–365, 366, 368, 386, 448, 449, 450
as journalist/author/lecturer, 101, 102, 104–105, 116, 139–140, 142, 143, 190, 225, 289, 335, 387
made Commander of the British Empire, 335
marriage and family, 57, 73, 140–142, 141, 142–143, 225, 229, 238, 368
military service, 9, 42–43
reaches summit of Everest, 513
a
s sales rep, 43, 54, 56, 57, 78, 86, 88
saved by Sherpas, 208–209
as team leader, 153, 188, 197–198, 199, 200–201, 202, 369–370, 375
Bonington, Wendy (Marchant), 57, 73, 86, 102, 103, 225, 342
Boysen, Martin, 144–146, 369
Annapurna expedition, 160, 170, 174
Changabang expedition, 228
and Chris Bonington, 369, 387
Everest expedition, 239–240, 251
and Mick Burke, 277–278
Braithwaite, Paul “Tut”, 241, 257–258, 337, 368, 377–378, 388
British Mountaineering Council, 243–244, 287, 289, 291, 308
Brown, Joe, 16–18, 19, 36–37, 43–44, 102, 142, 338, 446
Buhl, Herman, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage, 94
Burke, Beth, 149, 199, 224, 240, 280–281, 343
Burke, Mick, 101, 102, 123–124, 150, 157, 158, 161, 173, 174, 174–175, 176, 272–273
death, 280–283, 387
lost, 275, 276, 277, 278, 279
marriage and family, 149, 240, 280–281
as photojournalist, 199, 261, 274–275
C
camps. see bivouacs
capsule style climbing, 425
carabiners, 3, 108–109, 133
Central Pillar of Freney, 46–53
Changabang, Tasker and Boardman’s expedition, 228–229, 229–237, 306–334
financing, 308
strategy, 313
summit reached, 332
Cheney, Mike, 241, 260–261
China, 387, 443–444, 445
approach to Everest from, 466
destruction of Buddhist temples, 473–474
Clarke, Charlie, 240–241, 244, 262, 309, 404, 445, 446, 473, 475, 492–493
climbing elite, 7, 34–35, 36–38, 42
culture of. see culture, of climbing elite
new, 194, 242, 290–291, 336
remnants, of old, 242, 243–244
climbing equipment. see carabiners; crampons; etriers; jumars; pitons; ropes, use of
use of, and climbing philosophy, 54
climbing styles and philosophies, 89, 226–227, 422, 425, 444–445, 445, 450, 478
climbing techniques, 6, 15, 16, 21, 23, 30–31, 52–53, 108–109, 336
au cheval, 235
capsule style, 425
glissade, 364–365
laybacks, 324–325
Clough, Ian, 47, 63, 73, 149–150, 154, 159–160, 161, 169, 171
death, 191–192, 386
clubs, climbing, 13, 17, 17–18, 91, 95, 148, 149, 150
Coffey, Maria, 423, 437, 437–438, 471–472
Collins, Hilary (later Boardman), 388, 388–389, 472
Commander of the British Empire (honorific title), 335
commercialization, of climbing, 194, 244
communications, 153, 187–188, 190, 206, 317, 361, 404, 486, 502, 504
competition, international, 79, 106–107, 109, 110, 113, 116–117, 118, 196, 197
competition, team members in. see rivalry, team
crampons, 172, 211, 448
culture, of climbing elite, 7, 34–35, 89, 154, 193, 373, 471
Curran, Jim, 386, 446–447, 468, 468–469
D
Daily Express (London), 58
Daily Telegraph, 74, 78, 86, 104, 110, 116, 139
Death Bivouac, 114, 125
deaths, 97, 100, 143, 206, 244, 246–248, 254, 265, 321, 341, 351, 353
Bonatti expedition, 51
of climbers. see Bahuguna, Harsh; Burke, Mick; Clough, Ian; Estcourt, Nick; Harlin, John; Haston, Dougal; Patey, Tom; Tasker, Joe; Tighe, Tony
Conrad Bonington, 140–142
coping with, 385–386, 386–387
Eiger, 56, 61, 62, 64, 67
on Everest, 206
Hinterstoisser expedition, 45
recovery, of bodies, 333–334
Sherpas, 246–247, 411
Direct Route, on the Eiger, 89–90, 94, 98, 103, 103–104
drinking, alcohol. see partying
Dru, The. see Bonatti Pillar (Southwest Pillar of Dru)
drug and alcohol use. see partying
Duff, Jim, 242–243, 255, 369, 382
Dunagiri expedition, 294–305
E
Eiger, 9
climbing, 42, 44–46, 54, 56, 58–63, 65–72
Death Bivouac, 114–115
Direct Route, 89–90, 94, 98, 103–107
features of, 58, 59–60, 61, 66–67, 68, 69, 69–71, 71, 72
reputation, 98–99
elite, climbing. see climbing elite
Estcourt, Nick, 160, 174, 198, 218–219, 227–228, 240, 350–351
and Chris Bonington, 376
death, 378–379, 380, 381–382, 383–384, 387
on K2, 368, 372–373, 378–379, 380
on Ogre expedition, 343–344, 349, 352, 360–361, 366–367
Estcourt, Nick and Carolyn, 143, 143–144, 147, 373, 386
etriers, 23, 23–24, 53
Everest
8,000 meter mark, 484–485
approach from China, 466
comparison with other peaks, 147, 336
failed expeditions, 466
features of, 34, 195, 199, 203–204, 207, 230, 247, 387, 399, 466, 475, 477, 480, 513
first ascent of, 15–16, 242
as passé, 336
postmonsoon season, 198
Everest, Bonington’s final attempt, 511–516
Everest, Bonington’s first expedition, 195
Camps established, 214
death on, 220–224
media coverage, 225
strategy, 202–203, 209–210, 212, 216–217, 218–219
team, 198–202, 209–210
Everest, Bonington’s second expedition, 229
avalanches, 251, 252, 253–254, 279
financing, 239
gossip, 290
preparations, 471
significance, for climbers’ careers, 289
strategy, 243, 256, 260–262
summit reached, 268–271
team, 239–243, 261
team members lost, 275–276
Everest, Bonington’s third expedition, 467–514
strategy, 470, 485–486
team members, 466–470, 476
F
falls, falling, 3, 34, 45, 52, 56, 60, 64, 67, 82–83, 86, 97, 127, 131, 208, 210–211, 314–315
with crampons, 172, 211
porters, 424–425
fear, 75–76, 78, 82–83, 216, 418
financing, of expeditions, 46, 54, 58, 152, 153, 226, 240, 241, 308, 369–370, 423, 467
loss of corporate sources, 336
Fitzroy Group, 58
food and cooking, 25, 30, 32–33, 43, 66, 88, 234–235, 277–278, 301, 347–348, 364, 365, 407, 455, 495–496
Frost, Tom, 152, 162, 171–173, 176, 189–190
frostbite, 139, 300, 302, 303, 305, 318, 319, 402, 408
G
Gauri Sankar, 146, 411, 413
Gauri Sankar expedition, 413–421
Gillman, Peter, 104, 110, 117, 127
glissade, 364–365
Goodbye to All That (Graves), 393
Gordon, Adrian, 246, 278, 470, 473, 474, 496, 497, 504
Grandes Jorasses, 10, 18, 63–64
Graves, Robert, Goodbye to All That, 393
Great Abbai Expedition, 143
Great Britain, mountaineers of, 13–14, 53–54, 79, 87
Greenfield, George, 152, 153, 239
H
hallucinations, 302–303, 397, 480
hammocks, 317–318
HAPE (high altitude pulmonary edema), 364–365
Harlin, John, 90–93, 98–99
and Chris Bonington, 103–104, 107
climbing ability, 103, 104
death, 127–130, 135, 168, 386
and Dougal Haston, 98, 99, 117–118
Eiger Direct expedition, 103–128
family, 124–125, 128–129<
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personality, 107, 156
Haston, Dougal, 93–98, 108, 142, 171, 178, 198, 228, 251, 253–254, 338–339, 387
car accident, 99–101, 340–341
and Chris Bonington, 342–343
climbing career, 131, 193, 261, 289
climbing school, 341
death, 342–343
and Don Whillans, 160
and John Harlin, 98, 99, 117–118, 129, 130–131
marriage, 149, 338
on Mount Everest, 195
personality, 148–149, 156, 261
as writer and lecturer, 338, 339–340
Herrligkoffer, Karl, 195, 196, 197
high altitude climbing techniques, 226–227
Hillary, Edmund, 15–16, 242, 269, 510
Himalaya, 146, 228, 294–295, 387–388
Hinterstoisser Traverse, 45, 62
Hunt, John, Lord, 242, 243, 280–281
Hupfauer, Sigi, 126, 129
hypothermia, 255
I
illnesses and injuries, 25, 26, 27–28, 86, 161, 163, 164, 170, 183, 215, 216, 262, 298–299, 345, 353, 364–365, 366, 368, 386, 398, 417–418, 448, 449, 464. see also altitude, effects of; frostbite
broken legs, 357–359
caused by horseplay, 391
hypothermia, 255
stroke, 491–492, 492–493, 492–494, 493
India, 226, 227–229, 229–237, 294–296, 389
Indian Mountaineering Foundation, 295
international competition. see competition, international
international cooperation, 122, 195, 197
International School of Modern Mountaineering, 103
Irvine, Andrew, 206, 269, 466, 488
J
Jannu peak, 444
Jardine Matheson, 467
John Llewelyn Rhys Prize, 414
Jokhang Temple, Lhasa, 472