by Lisa Chaney
Hugo, François
Hugo, Jean
Hugo, Valentine
Huguenots
Hutton, Barbara
Huxley, Aldous
Huxley, Julian
Huxley, Maria
Idylle saphique (de Pougy)
India
industrialization
Iribarnegaray, Maybelle
Iribe (Paul Iribarnegaray)
Italy
jackets
Jacob, Max
Jacques-Dalcroze, Emile
jasmine
jazz
jeans
jersey
jerseys
Jesuits
jewelry
Jews
Jicky
Jockey Club (Paris)
Jouhandeau, Marcel
Jünger, Ernst
Karajan, Herbert von
Karam, Princess of Kapurthala
Kay, Patrick
Kelly, Grace
Kensington University College
Kessel, Georges
Kidman, Nicole
King of Kings (film)
Kisling, Moise
Kitmir (embroidery company)
Klein, Samuel
Knightley, Keira
Knights of the Round Table, The
Kochno, Boris
Koutouzof, Count
Krebs, Germaine
Kutter-Micklefield, Marie-Valery
Laborde, Comte Léon de
Labrunie, Gabrielle
Labyrinth, The (Schellenberg)
Lagerfeld, Karl
Laloy, Louis
Lang, Fritz
Lanvin, Jeanne
Laroche, Guy
Laurencin, Marie
Laurens, Henri
Laval, Pierre
Lawrence, D. H. and Frieda
Leclerc, Joseph
Leclerc, Marie
Leclerc, Suzanne
Lee, William
Left Bank
Léger, Fernand
Lelong, Natalie
Lempicka, Tamara de
Lenin. I.
Lerbier, Monique
Léry, Jeanne
Lesage
lesbians
Lestringuez, Pierre
Leusse, Claude de
Lewis, Maison
Lewis et Irène (Morand)
Liberman, Alex
Liberman, Tatiana du Plessix
Lifar, Serge
Lipchitz, Jacques
Lister, Thomas. See Ribblesdale, Lord.
little black dress
livre de la fumée, Le (Laloy)
Lollobrigida, Gina
Lombardi, Colonel
Londsdale, Lord
Longchamp racecourse
Loos, Anita
Louis XIV, King of France
Louis Napoléon
Lovat, Laura, Lady
Lovat, Lord
Lubersac, Odon de
Ludres, Marquise de
Luxemburg, Rosa
Macy’s
Madoux, Georges
Maeght, Aimé
magazines
mail order catalogues
Mainbocher
Mallarmé, Stefan
Malraux, André
Mann, Thomas
Manners, Diana
Manning, Cardinal
Man Ray
Marais, Jean
Marcus, Neiman, Fashion Oscar
Margueritte, Victor
Maria Pavlovna (the elder), Grand Duchess of Russia
Marie Pavlovna (the younger), Grand Duchess of Russia
embroideries of
Mariés de la Tour Eiffel, Les (Cocteau)
Maritain, Jacques
Marling, Charles and Lucia
Marne, First Battle of
Marquand, Christian
Marquand, Lilou
Marseillaise, La (film)
Martínez de Hoz, Madame
Martinez de Hoz, Paul Eduardo
Massine, Léonide
Massis, Henri-Adrien
Matisse, Henri
Maugham, Somerset
Maupassant, Guy de
Maurras, François
Maxim’s
Mazuel, Maud
Mdivani, Roussadana See also Sert.
Medici, Catherine de’
Mendl, Lady
Menkes, Suzy
Meyer, Baron Adolphe de
Meyer, Olga Caracciolo de
Michelham, Lady
Milhaud, Darius
Mille, Gérard
Mille, Hervé
Millin, Bill
milliners
miniskirt
Mironnet, Jean (François)
Mistinguett
Mitford, Nancy
Mode, Les
modernism
Modigliani, Amedeo
Moltke, Helmuth von
Molyneux, Edward
Momm, Theodor
Monroe, Marilyn
Monte Carlo
Morand, Paul
Gabrielle’s memoirs taken down by
Lewis et Irène written by
Sorel’s dinner party recorded by
Moreau, Jeanne
Moulin Rouge
Moulins, France
Mournay, Comte de (Zed)
Moustiers, Comtesse
Muggeridge, Malcolm
Mugnier, Abbé
mulberries
Munich pact
Munnings, Hilda
Murat, Therese, Comtesse
Murat, Violette, Princesse
Murphy, Gerald and Sara
Mussolini, Benito
Nametalla, Marguerite (Maggie van Zuylen)
Nana (Zola)
Napoléon I, Emperor of France
Napoléon III, Emperor of France (Louis Napoléon)
Nast, Condé
Natanson, Thadée
National Broadcasting Corporation (NBC)
New Look, the
New York, N.Y.
New Yorker
New York Times
Nexon, Barone Maurice de
Nicholas II, Tsar
Nijinska, Bronislava
Nijinsky, Vaslav
Noailles, Comtesse Anna de
Noces, Les (ballet)
Noces villageoises, Les (Diaghilev ballet)
Nord-Sud
Northcliffe, Alfred
Norway
Nothing Doing Bar. See also Boeuf sur le Toit, Le
Notre Dame convent
novels, serial
Nuremberg war trials
Odile de Croÿ, Princesse
Oedipus Rex (Cocteau)
Ollivier, Valéry
Operation Modelhut
Orlandi, Suzanne
Otero, Caroline
pajamas
Palasse, André
Paquin, Jeanne
Parade (Diaghilev ballet)
Paramount
Parfums Chanel, Les
Paris
bohemian life in
demimonde of
fashion in
homosexuality in
magnificence promoted in
under Nazi occupation
rebuilding of
in World War I,
in World War II,
Paris commune of
Parisian Jeu de Paume
Paris Match
Paris Polo Club
Paris spring collection (1939)
Parker, Suzy
Parquet, Paul
Patou, Jean
Paul Alexandrovich, Grand Duke of Russia
Pausa, La
pearls
Péguy, Charles
Penn, Irving
Pereire, Jacob Emile
Pétain, Philippe
physical culture
Picabia, Francis
Picasso, Olga
Picasso, Pablo
Antigone’s set by
Gabrielle’s affair with
Parade’s set created by
Pulcinella’s set created by
&n
bsp; Pillet-Will, Comte
pink
Pinto, Lieutenant
Poincaré, Raymond
Poiret, Paul
Poland
Polge, Jacques
Pompidou, Claude
Ponsonby, Loelia (Duchess of Westminster)
Ponteils, France, (ancestral hamlet of the Chanels)
Popular Front
Portarlington, Lady
Porter, Cole
Poulenc, Francis
Pound, Ezra
Prokofiev, Sergei
Propaganda-Abteilung
prostitution
Proust, Marcel
Pulcinella (Diaghilev ballet)
Quant, Mary
Rabanne, Paco
Rabaté, Lucienne
rabbit fur
Rachmaninov, Sergei
Radiguet, Raymond
Radziwill, Countess
Radziwill, Princess
railways
Rallet N. 1,
Rasputin, Grigori
Ravel, Maurice
rayon
Reay Forest
Reves, Emery
Reflections of Victory (Capel)
Règle du Jeau, La (film)
Rehbinder, Countess
Renoir, Auguste
Renoir, Jean
Requena, Comtesse de
Resistance
Reverdy, Henriette
Reverdy, Pierre death of
revue blanche, La
Reynaud, Paul
Ribbentrop, Joachim von
Ribblesdale, Lord
Ricci, Nina
Ripon, Gladys, Lady
Ristelhueber, Boulos
Rite of Spring, The (ballet)
changes to
premier of
Ritz
roads
Rochas, Marcel
Rodier, Jean
Roger, Lucienne
Rohan-Montbazon, Duchesse de
Romania
Rommel, Erwin
Roosevelt, Franklin D.
Rosslyn, Lady
Rothschild, Diane “Kitty” de
Rothschild, Guy de
Rothschild, Lili de
Rothschild, Marie-Hélène
Rothschild, Nadine
Rothschild, Robert
Rothschild family
Rouault, Georges
Rouchefoucauld family
Rousseau, Douanier
Rowley, Violet
Royallieu (château)
Rubinstein, Arthur
Rubinstein, Helena
Rubinstein, Ida
Rules of the Game, The (film)
Russia Revolution
sable
Sachs, Maurice
Sagan, Françoise
Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de
Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France
Saint Laurent, Yves
Saint-Sauveur, Pauline de
Saks
Salverte, Jeanne de
Samaritaine, La
Sanary, France
Santos-Dumont, ALberto
Sargent, John Singer
Sartre, Jean-Paul
Satie, Erik
satin
Schellenberg, Walter
Schiaparelli, Elsa
in collaboration with Dalí
Schiaparelli, Gogo
Schillinger, Hans
Schneider, Romy
Schoenebeck, Baron von
Schoenebeck, Maximiliana von (Catsy), married von Dincklage
Schoenebeck, Sybille (Bedford)
Scott, Ridley
sea bathing
Second Empire, France
Secret of the Medici
Segonzac, André de
Segonzac, Comte Jean de
Sem (Georges Goursat)
Sert, José Maria
Sert, Misia Edwards
as affected by Depression
as annoyed with Gabrielle’s philanthropy
and creation of Chanel N° 5,
decorating by
deserted by Sert
Diaghilev’s friendship with
drugs used by
Gabrielle influenced by
Gabrielle placed in apartment by
and Gabrielle’s affair with Stravinsky
memoirs of
salon acquired by
at Sorel’s party
sewing machines
sexual inclinations
Seyrig, Delphine
Shervashidze, Prince
shoulder pads
silk
Simpson, Wallis
Singer, Winnaretta
Six, Les
Sjorza, Countess
skirts
short
smart trousers
Smith, Pamela, Lady
Snow, Carmel
social hierarchies
Sokolova, Lydia (Hilda Munnigs)
Somme, Battle of
Sorel, Cécile
Soviet Union
Spain
Spears, Edward
Speer, Albert
Spiritualism
Stern, Herman
stock market crash (1929)
Stöhrer, Ute von
Stonyhurst College
Stravinsky, Catherine
Stravinsky, Igor
death of
Gabrielle’s affair with
Streitz, Robert
strikes in France
Stroheim, Erich von
Stülpnagel, Carl-Heinrich von
style, fashion vs.
Sullivan, Anne
suntans
surrealism
Swanson, Gloria
sweaters
Sweetinburgh, Thelma
swimsuits
Switzerland
Synarchist Empire Movement
Syndicat de la Couture
syphilis
Tagore, Rabindranath
Talmadge, Norma
Tatou, Audrey
Taylor, Elizabeth
Tehran Conference (1943)
Témoin, Le
Ten Commandments, The (film)
Tender Is the Night (Fitzgerald)
10th Light Horse Regiment
Théâtre des Arts
Théâtre des Champs-Elysées
Theosophists
Time
Times, The (London)
Tonight or Never (film)
Toulemon, Elise (Caryathis)
Toulmin, Evelyn
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri
Train, Susan
Train Bleu
Train Bleu, Le (ballet)
Traviata, La (opera)
tweed
Tzara, Tristan
United States
in World War I,
Uriage, France
Uzanne, Octave
Vadim, Roger
Valentino
Valéry, Paul
Vallat, Xavier
Vanderbilt, Consuelo
Varennes, France
Vaufreland, Louis de
Vendôme
Venice, Italy
Verdun, Battle of
Verlaine, Paul
Versailles Conference (1919)
Vichy, France
Victoria, Grand Duchess
Victory Ball, Paris
Viezaux, Etienne de (St. Stephen)
Viggiano, Yvonne
Villa Larralde
Vilmorin, Louise de
Vionnet, Madeleine
Visconti, Luchino
Vivien, Renée
Vogue
Vreeland, Diana
Vuillard, Édouard
Wagner, Richard
waistlines
Wales, David Prince of, see Edward VIII, King of England
Warkowska, Madame
Waugh, Evelyn
Weber-Rosenkranz, Baroness
Wertheimer, Alain
Wertheimer, Gérard
Wertheimer, Jacques
Wertheimer, Paul
Wertheimer, Pierre
West, Mae
West, Shelagh
Westminster, Duke of, see Bend’Or
Wilhelm II, Kaiser
Williams, Harrison
Williams, Mona
women
bodies of
horse riding by
liberation of
in men’s clothes
practical outfits worn by
Women’s Wear Daily
Woolf, Virginia
World War I,
casualties of
French mutinies in
technology in
World War II,
Gabrielle’s escape from Paris in
Phony War in
Worth, Charles Frederick
Wyndham, Diana
Capel’ affair with
Gabrielle disliked by
Wyndham, Percy
youth
Yturbe, Miguel de
Zola, Emile
Zuylen, Egmont van
Zuylen, Maggie van
Zweig, Arnold
1. The vast chestnut forests seen from Ponteils, the mountainous Cevennes hamlet where Gabrielle’s paternal ancestors lived.
2. Gabrielle’s great-grandfather’s inn, “the Chanel.” Today, the shutters firmly shut, its stony bulk has an air of neglect.
3. The Aubazine convent-orphanage where Gabrielle lived for many years.
4. The earliest known photograph of Gabrielle, with Adrienne at Vichy c. 1904.
5. Etienne Balsan on military service, c. 1903, around the time Gabrielle met him.
6. Gabrielle, c. 1909. Tastes were changing; her angular “modern” beauty had become desirable.
7. The famed courtesan, Emilienne d’Alençon, Etienne Balsan’s lover when Gabrielle appeared on the scene.
8. Royallieu, where Gabrielle lived with Etienne as his mistress.
9. Arthur “Boy” Capel, c. 1910, who was to transform Gabrielle’s life.
10. Arthur Capel and Gabrielle. Jodhpurs and sitting astride were unconventional for a horsewoman in 1910.
11. Arthur Capel was a noted horseman and excelled at polo.
12. Gabrielle in her own hats, seen in Comoedia Illustré, 1910.
13. The actress Gabrielle Dorziat 1910, in “Marie-Louise” hats, almost indistinguishable from Gabrielle’s own designs.
14. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat for the play Bel Ami, 1912.
15. Gabrielle Dorziat in another Chanel hat, 1912.
16. Outside Gabrielle’s boutique with Adrienne (left) in Deauville, 1913. Note the awning reading “Gabrielle Chanel.”
17. By 1913 Gabrielle was becoming known, and Sem caricatured her with her immensely eligible lover Arthur Capel.
18. Gabrielle at her Deauville shop doorway. Previously unrecognized, on her right is Capel; furthest right is Balsan, still a friend. (There are only a handful of known photos of Gabrielle and Capel together.)