Luxury World: The Past, Present and Future of Luxury Brands

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Luxury World: The Past, Present and Future of Luxury Brands Page 27

by Tungate, Mark


  The next time we covet a luxury of some kind, or admonish somebody else for doing so, it may be helpful to remember Patrizia’s theory that the pursuit of luxury has contributed to art and culture – and perhaps to civilization as a whole.

  In any case, even if we finally decide to turn our back on it, luxury is impervious to our scorn. Consumers come and go, economies boom and bust – but luxury endures.

  References

  * * *

  BOOKS

  Benaïm, Laurence (2002) Yves Saint Laurent, Bernard Grasset, Paris

  Berry, Christopher J (1994) The Idea of Luxury, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge

  Blume, Mary and Lartigue, Jacques-Henri (2001) Lartigue’s Riviera, Flammarion, Paris and New York

  Castarède, Jean (2007) Histoire du Luxe en France, Groupe Eyrolles, Paris

  Chadha, Radha and Husband, Paul (2006) The Cult of the Luxury Brand, Nicholas Brealey International, London and Boston

  Chevalier, Michel and Mazzalovo, Gérald (2008) Luxury Brand Management: A world of privilege, John Wiley & Sons (Asia), Singapore

  Cologni, Franco (2001) Hallmarks of History: Piaget, Assouline, Paris

  Grumbach, Didier (2008) Histoires de Mode, 2nd edn, Editions du Regard, Paris

  Fraser, Antonia (2001) Marie Antoinette: The journey, Weidenfeld & Nicholson, London

  Philips, Tim (2005) Knock-Off: The true story of the world’s fastest growing crime wave, Kogan Page, London

  Rentschler, Ruth and Hede, Anne-Marie (2007) Museum Marketing: Competing in the global marketplace, Butterworth-Heineman, Oxford

  Resnick, Evelyne (2008) Wine Brands, Palgrave Macmillan, London

  Ring, Jim (2004) Riviera: The rise and rise of the Côte d’Azur, John Murray, London

  Robinson, Jancis (2006) Oxford Companion to Wine, 3rd edn, Oxford University Press, Oxford

  Thomas, Dana (2007) Deluxe: How luxury lost its lustre, Penguin Press, New York

  Thompson, Don, (2008) The $12 Million Stuffed Shark, Aurum Press, London

  Thornton, Sarah (2008) Seven Days in the Art World, Granta Publications, London

  White, Edmund (2001) Le Flâneur, Bloomsbury Publishing, London

  ONLINE RESOURCES

  Academie des Vins Anciens (www.academiedesvinsanciens.org)

  Admap (www.admap.com)

  Asahi Shimbun (www.asahi.com)

  Bloomberg (www.bloomberg.com)

  Brandchannel (www.brandchannel.com)

  Brand Republic (www.brandrepublic.com)

  Business 2.0 (http://money.cnn.com)

  Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (www.fhc.ch)

  Fractional Life (www.fractionallife.com)

  Haute Horlogerie (www.journal.hautehorlogerie.org)

  Hospitality Net (www.hospitalitynet.org)

  Luxury Culture (www.luxuryculture.com)

  Slate magazine (www.slate.com)

  Transnational Institute (www.tni.com)

  Unity Marketing (www.unitymarketingonline.com)

  Union des Maisons de Champagne (www.maisons-champagne.com)

  World Advertising Research Center (www.warc.com)

  Index

  * * *

  accessible luxury, rise of 3

  Admap 85

  Advertising Age 25–26, 37, 139

  advertising agencies

  JWT 213

  Ogilvy & Mather 141–42, 213

  and Sir Martin Sorrell/WPP 213

  Adweek 140

  Age, The 3

  analogue vs digital 224–25

  Antwerp/Antwerp World Diamond Centre 33–42, 45 see also Claes, P and diamonds

  United Nations criticism of 40–41

  architects

  Dutrou 94 see also Monte Carlo

  Gehry, Frank 110

  Hadid, Zaha 109

  Herzog & de Meuron 124

  Koolhaas, Rem 124

  Yabu Pushelberg 130

  Arnault, B 9, 160 see also art collectors and champagne

  art brands 105–21 see also art collectors; art exhibitions; art dealers; art exhibitions; art fairs; art galleries; artists; auction houses and museums

  art collectors 106–11

  Arnault, Bernard 108, 109–10, 111

  outside advisors to 110

  Pinault, François 100, 109–10, 111

  Saatchi, Charles 106–08, 111, 113, 119

  art dealers 118

  de Pury, Simon 108–09

  Joplin, Jay 113, 114–15

  Luxembourg, Daniela 108

  Wenman, Neil 119–20

  art exhibitions

  Freeze 112–13

  Sensation 107

  art fairs 105–06

  Art Basel 106, 118–19

  European Fine Art Foundation Fair (TEFAF) 105–06

  Frieze/Frieze 106, 119

  La Foire Internationale de l’Art Contemporaine (FIAC) 105–06, 119–20

  sponsors of 118

  art galleries 107, 109

  Haunch of Venison 118

  Opera Gallery 115–17, 118

  and Viltart, Didier 115–17, 118

  White Cube 109, 113, 114–15, 119

  ‘art of fiction, The’ 54

  artisans and authenticity 25–32 see also shoemaking

  and Compagnons du Devoir 29–30

  in Florence 26–29

  artists 111–14

  Chapman, Jake and Dinos 107, 119–20

  Emin, Tracey 107, 109, 112

  Harvey, Marcus 107

  Hirst, Damien 106, 111–14, 121

  Hyber, Fabrice 106

  Koons, Jeff 112

  Murakami, Takashi 109

  Prince, Richard 109

  Quinn, Mark 107

  Riley, Bridget 112

  Sprouse, Stephen 109

  Warhol, Andy 106, 112

  and Young British Art movement 121

  ASW (ASmallWorld.com) (and) 139–40

  luxury brands 140

  Mercedes Benz 140

  Tudor watch brand 140

  auction houses 117–18

  Christie’s 109, 117, 118, 120–21

  and de Ricqlès, François 120–21

  Phillips 108

  Phillips de Pury & Company 109

  Sotheby’s 114, 117

  and Yves St Laurent art collection 120–21

  Authentic Luxury Association 222–23

  Authenticity: What consumers really want 25

  automobiles/automobile manufacturers 61–67, 140

  Bentley see Bentley cars

  BMW 64

  and Paris Motor Show 61–62, 64

  Rolls-Royce 63–64

  Vickers 64

  Volkswagen 64

  bags/handbags 18, 19, 27–28, 32, 71, 109 see also Gucci

  Bassani, L 78–83 see also yachts

  Bene 27

  Benaïm, L 16–17

  Bentley, W O 62–64

  Bentley Boys, the 63

  Bentley cars 6–7, 62–65, 78, 101

  and Bentley Experience 65

  Brooklands coupé 64

  Continental GT 64

  and McCullough, S 7, 62, 65–67

  Mulliner 66

  Rolls-Royce takeover of 63–64

  Berry, C J 6

  bling 4–5

  blogs 142–43, 222

  Boussac (textiles) 9

  Bowles, H 47

  brands see art brands and fashion brands

  Brulé, T 3

  Business Wire 95

  Campaign 213

  Carpe Diem 89

  Castarède, J 5–6, 8

  categories of luxury 6

  Cerf Mendès-France/C Mendès 15

  Cendars, B 54

  Challenges 161

  champagne (and) 153–68 see also cognac and wine

  appellation and government legislation 156–57

  Avenue de Champagne 158

  the Champagne region 154–55

  revising borders of 167–68

  Chevalier, Alain 160

  Comit�
� Interprofessionel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) 153, 156–58

  Dom Pérignon 158, 159, 161

  Domaine Chandon (California) 160

  fermentation and blending processes 155

  history of champagne houses 158–61

  Lorson, Daniel 153–56

  LVMH 158

  Moët, Jean Rémy 159

  Moët & Chandon 158–61, 163

  Pasteur, Louis 155

  Reims see champagne in Reims

  Ruinart 158

  de Vogüé, Count Robert-Jean 159–60

  champagne in Reims (and) 161–66

  Cristal brand 162, 163–64

  and rappers 163–64

  Janneau, Michael 164

  Lawson, Martine 162

  Louis Roederer 161–66

  sponsorship 165–66

  chefs 181–88

  Adria, Ferràn 181–82

  Blumenthal, Heston 171

  Bocuse, Paul 177

  Child, Julia 177

  Ducasse, Alain 182–88 see also main entry

  Ramsey, Gordon 171

  White, Marco Pierre 181

  Chevalier, M 2, 126

  Claes, P 34–35, 37, 38, 40–41

  clothing manufacturers

  C Mendès 15 see also Grumbach, D

  Courrèges 15

  Diesel 15

  Staff International 15

  cognac

  Hennessy & Co 160

  Moët-Hennessy 160

  Compagnons du Devoir 29–30

  Corthay, Pierre 29–32 see also shoemaking

  cosmetic brands

  Lancôme 98

  L’Oreal 80, 110

  Côte d’Azur/Riviera 85–90 see also property

  counterfeit goods 135–36

  couture, future of 19–23

  crafted/handmade goods 222–23

  customization 31

  Daily Telegraph, The 20

  De Beers (and) 36–37

  Diamond Jewellers Ltd (retail network) 37

  LVMH 37 see also main entry

  de Brunhoff, M 16

  definition(s) of l

  luxury 5

  luxury brand 2

  Deluxe: How luxury lost its lustre 3, 27

  deluxe nomads 91–104

  hotel world 97–102

  luxury travel services 102–04

  Monte Carlo – the brand 92–97

  Diamond High Council/Hoge Raad voor Diamant 38

  diamonds 33–46 see also Antwerp/Antwerp World Diamond Centre; De Beers and jewellery

  4 Cs of 38

  and Belgian Polished Diamond Association 36

  conflict 40–41

  countries producing 36

  and design/designers 42–

  and Fowler Report 40–41

  grading of 39

  history of 34–36

  and Kimberley Process Certification Scheme 41

  Lesotho Promise 37–38

  smuggling of 40–41

  trading in 40

  digital luxury (and) 135–43

  Louis Vuitton 140–43

  luxury brands and the web 137–40

  dream weavers see couture, future of; ready to wear/prêt-à-porter and Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche/YSL

  Ducasse, Alain 182–88, 228

  background/culinary history of 182–84

  classical tradition of 187

  and la différence 185–86

  and service 187–88

  Economist, The 164

  Intelligent Life 164

  education see universities as brands

  Fabergé 150–52

  Imperial eggs 150

  and Samuel Rubin Foundation (New York) 151

  and Unilever 151–52

  Far Eastern Economic Review 192

  fashion brands

  Alexander McQueen 10

  Balenciaga 10, 18

  Berluti 30

  Bottega Veneta 10, 32, 109

  Boucheron 10

  Chanel 17, 18, 109

  Christian Dior 9, 21–22, 125, 128

  Costume National 15

  Fendi 27

  Givenchy 18

  Gucci 109, 123, 125

  and Polet, Robert 123

  Hermés 4, 32

  John Lobb (Paris) 30, 101

  Lanvin 18

  Longchamp 109

  Louis Vuitton/LVMH 125 see also Louis Vuitton and LVMH

  Miu Miu 125

  Nina Ricci 21

  Prada 18, 27, 124, 225

  Richemont 10

  Stella McCartney 10

  Ungaro 21

  Valentino 125

  fashion/perfume designers

  Armani, Giorgio 20

  Balenciaga 15

  Batista, Felipe Oliviera 20

  Bergé, Pierre 12, 16–18

  Bertin, R 13

  Boucheron, Frédéric 9, 42

  Cardin, Pierre 17

  Cartier, L-F 2, 9, 140, 143

  Carven 14

  Chanel 17, 142–43

  Courrèges, André 14, 15

  de Givenchy, Hubert 12, 15

  Dessés, Jean

  Dior, Christian 6, 18, 160

  Dixon, Tom (Habitat) 49

  Fath, Jacques 14

  Font, Joseph 20

  Ford, Tom 18, 124, 205

  Galliano, John 12, 21, 22

  Gaultier, Jean-Paul 12, 20

  Gaumont-Lanvin, J 14

  Gucci, Aldo 124

  Hebey, Isabelle 16

  Hermès, T 9

  Jacobs, Marc 205

  Karan, Donna 205

  Kokosalaki, Sophia 15

  Lacroix, Christian 12

  Lagerfeld, Karl 4, 5, 15, 21

  Lanvin, Jeanne 14, 15

  Laroche, Guy 15

  Mabille, Alexis 20, 21–22

  Meisel, Steven 205

  Missoni 15

  Mugler, Thierry 20

  Newson, Marc 49

  Paquin 14

  Patou, Jean 15

  Piguet, Robert 14

  Pilati, Stefano 18–19

  Pill, Cathy 20

  Poiret 2, 13

  Takada, Kenzo 12

  Ungaro, Emanuel 15

  Valentino (Valentino Garavani) 12, 15, 20, 100

  Verbrugghe, F 4

  Vionnet, Madeleine 13, 14

  Vuitton, Louis 2, 9

  Westwood, Vivienne 15

  Worth, Charles F 2, 12–13

  Financial Times 3, 97, 116

  How To Spend It 4

  flying see fractional ownership and jet planes

  Food & Drink Weekly 172

  Forbes 97

  Fortune 97

  Fractional Life/www.fractionallife.com 71

  fractional ownership (and) 69–75 see also jet planes

  Netjets 70, 72, 118, 119

  Pure Latitude/M Gray 71

  Fraser, A 8–9

  furniture designers

  Arad, Ron 101

  Kagan, Vladimir 101

  Gatti, P 27

  Gaudoin, T 32

  Gilmore, J H 25–26

  Giorgio Armani Privé 20

  Gladwell, M 203

  global luxury market, collapse of 4

  Grumbach, D 13, 14, 15, 17, 20–21

  Gucci 10, 18, 27–28, 32

  and ‘sweatshop scandal’ 28

  Guardian, The 139

  guilt-free luxury 227–28

  Haute Couture, Chambre Syndicale de la 20, 21

  haute couture/haute couture shows 20–23

  Haute Horlogerie 57

  Histoire du Luxe en France 5

  Histoires de Mode 13

  Hofmann, P 26–27

  hotels 91–92, 94–95, 97–102 see also Monte Carlo

  George V (Paris) 98, 135

  Gulf 99–100

  Hotel de Paris 92, 95, 97–98, 104

  and Allegri, Luca 97–98

  and Ducasse, Alain 98

  Mark Hotel (New York) 100–01

  and Sherwin, James 101

  and reservati
on services/alliances 104

  Ritz-Carlton group 99

  Idea of Luxury, The 6

  Independent, The 71, 192, 197

  interior designers

  Grange, Jacques 100–01

  Passebon, Pierre 101

  International Herald Tribune 4, 19, 36, 54, 70–71, 112, 124, 141, 214

  Italy 26–29 see also shoemaking

  and leatherworking/Scuola de Cuoio 27

  and Prato chamber of commerce 28

  jet planes (and) 69–75

  Booth, M 73

  Buffett, W 73

  Dranitzke, R 72–75

  European Aviation Safety Agency (EASA) 74

  fractional ownership of 70–75

  Gulfstream 69–70

  and Baugniet, R 70

  Netlets/Netlets Europe 70, 72–75

  Santulli, R 72

  jewellery 33–50 see also diamonds

  jewellery brands

  Cartier 42, 118, 119

  Chanel 44

  Chaumet 42

  Dior 44

  Fennell, Theo 135

  JEL (Jewellery Ethical Luxury) 221

  Lorenz 43

  Louis Vuitton 37, 43, 44

  MHT 50

  jewellery designers 42–50

  Bäumer, Lorenz 42–46

  Butler, Nicky 47

  and LORENZ costume jewellery 43

  Taillac (de), Marie Hélène 46–50

  and Gem Palace, Jaipur 48

  Kimberley Process, The 41

  Knock-Off: The true story of the world’s fastest growing crime wave 135

  knowledge economy see museums and universities as brands

  Lattigue’s Riviera(Jean Lartigue) 87

  Le Comptoir de l’Homme 128–29

  Le Figaro 171

  Le Flâneur 7

  leatherworking 26–29 see also shoemaking

  Léopold-Metzger, P 56–58 see also watchmakers/watches

  London (and)

  Café Royal 124

  Ferrari store 124

  Marylebone High Street and Howard de Walden Estate 125

  Regent Street and Crown Estates 124–25

  Westfield 125

  Louis Vuitton 1, 2, 5, 109, 124, 140–43, 213 see also fashion designers and LVMH

  client–vendor relationship at 126–27

  and digital band-building/Ogilvy & Mather 141–42

  marketing strategy of 125–26

  Private Client Relations department 125–26

  and Racamier, Henry 160

  Luxury Brand Management 2, 126

  LVMH (and) 1, 4, 9–10, 18, 37, 108, 110

  champagne houses 158–60

  De Beers 37

  Phillips auction house 108

  Madame Figaro 106

  Mazzalovo, G2, 126

  Menkes, S 22–23

  Men’s Vogue 81

 

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