by Cathy Sharp
‘Yes, of course, it’s lovely.’ I smiled at her. ‘I’m looking forward to starting work.’
‘Well, that won’t be until tomorrow. We’ve got the afternoon to ourselves, Amy, which is why I suggested you come on a Sunday. I thought we might have tea somewhere and listen to a concert in the park. Or we could go to the pictures?’
‘There’s a new Valentino film on at the Regal Cinema,’ I said. ‘Or have you seen it already?’
‘Yes, I did go with a friend,’ Lainie said, and I thought I detected a faint flush in her cheeks. ‘But I wouldn’t mind seeing it again with you.’
‘He’s so good, isn’t he?’ We laughed together, feeling a little silly but sharing our enthusiasm for the film star who had had women swooning ever since his first picture was released. ‘Mum said she wouldn’t cross the road to see him, but I think he’s wonderful.’
‘Bridget always was sensible,’ Lainie said and then pulled a wry face. ‘It’s a pity I wasn’t more like her … But that’s water under the bridge. I’m going to put the kettle on now and make us a cup of tea. You unpack your things, Amy. I’ll call you when it’s ready.’
‘Thanks, Lainie.’
I hung my clothes in the spacious wardrobe, packing my underwear and three brand new packets of Red Seal silk stockings into the chest of drawers. The stockings had been a gift from Matthew before he left for Manchester.
‘Think about me when you’re wearing them,’ he’d said with a naughty look and then kissed me. ‘I shall lie in bed and imagine you putting them on. You have the most fabulous legs, Amy, especially when you wear that French outfit.’
My father had bought me a little suit in the new style made fashionable by the French designer, Coco Chanel. It had a very short skirt, which finished only just below my knees, and a jacket that was soft and looked like a tailored cardigan. The style was so much more relaxed than the fashions women had worn before the war, and my mother had been slightly shocked when she saw me wearing it for the first time.
‘It’s hardly decent, Amy!’
‘Everyone is wearing short skirts now, Mum.’
‘I’m not – at least, not that short.’
‘Daddy bought it for me.’
‘Sometimes I wonder if your father has the sense he was born with, so I do.’
She always resorted to her Irishness when she was losing an argument, but I could see she was laughing inside.
‘You’re teasing me, Mum!’
‘O’ course I am, Amy. You look very pretty, so you do – a young lady of the twenties, very modern and stylish. I’m glad you haven’t had your hair cut short, though. It’s so pretty as it is.’
My hair was dark brown and hung in soft waves to my shoulders. Matthew liked it that way, and begged me not to when I had thought of having it cut into a fashionable bob. He said my eyes were green when I was angry, but I thought they were really more of a hazel colour. My mother and Matthew both said I was beautiful, but they were biased in my favour. The truth was probably that I was an attractive, modern young woman who liked to look nice.
I hung up the outfit Matthew liked so much. Lainie had provided me with more than enough space for my clothes, and I left the bottom drawer of the chest empty. I would buy something every week for my new home, such as pillow-cases or towels – just little things we would need when we got married.
‘Oh, Matt,’ I sighed as I glanced at myself in the wardrobe mirror. ‘It’s going to be such a long, long time without you.’
Picking up my folder of designs, I flicked through them, quickly becoming absorbed as I thought about some new ideas I wanted to work on. If I couldn’t see Matthew, I would just have to spend more time on my work.
I had been staying with Lainie for a week when I found the gun in the top right-hand drawer of the bureau in her sitting room. She had run out of postage stamps when writing out accounts in her office downstairs, but remembered having put some in her personal writing bureau.
‘Would you pop up and fetch them for me, Amy?’ she asked.
‘Of course.’
‘I think I left them in the top drawer, the one on the left.’
I nodded and went through the door at the back of the office to the stairs leading to her private apartments. Running up the stairs, I opened the drawer to the left first, but after hunting for a few seconds I discovered the stamps were not there. So I opened the drawer to the right, and there, lying on top of what looked like some old letters, was the gun.
The shock of seeing it there made me go cold all over and I shut the drawer quickly. Why did Lainie keep a pistol in her desk? Could she use it? I suspected she could or she would not have bought it. When my aunt made up her mind to do something, she did it properly.
‘I came to tell you the stamps are in the silver box.’ I turned to find Lainie watching me. ‘You found the gun, of course. I keep it for protection, Amy. A woman living alone can’t be too careful.’
‘Would you use it?’ I was fascinated; a little shocked at this revelation.
Something flickered in her eyes. ‘If it came to the point where I was desperate – yes. Yes, I would, Amy. There are certain circumstances when self-defence is not only permissible, it is vital.’
‘If you were being threatened by an intruder?’
‘Yes, exactly. I knew you would find the gun when you couldn’t find the stamps. That’s why I came after you. I wanted to explain.’
‘You don’t have to tell me anything.’
‘I was hurt badly once. I don’t intend anything like that to happen again, either to me or to you.’
‘Do you want to tell me what happened?’
‘No. I don’t think you need to know that, Amy. It wasn’t very pleasant and it was a long time ago. Besides, I’m over it now. I just wanted you to understand why I keep a gun. I’ve never had to use it, but it’s there just in case.’
‘I hope you will never have to use it!’
Lainie smiled. ‘I don’t expect I shall. I’m going out for a while now. Don’t forget about the account customers. Just look in my black book if you’re not sure. If they are blacklisted they will be in it; if not it’s safe to let them take what they want. Ruth will know if they’re regular customers anyway.’
‘I’m sure we can manage for a while.’
Lainie nodded her encouragement. ‘You’re doing very well, Amy. You have a talent for picking exactly what will suit someone. Within a few weeks you’ll be capable of running this place single-handed.’
‘I think it’s going to take a bit longer than that,’ I said and laughed.
I was pleased by her praise. Going back down to the shop I forgot about the discovery I had made. Lainie had explained that the gun was just in case, and I didn’t think it very important. We were never likely to need it.
There were four customers being served when I went into the showroom and only two girls to cope with the sudden rush. Ruth shot me a look of relief as I went to assist her.
‘Mrs Holland has brought her niece in to buy an evening dress, Amy. It is for a very special dance. I’ve shown them several gowns but none of them were quite right. Could you suggest something?’
I glanced at the young lady sitting with the rather severe-looking matron. She was pretty with soft brown hair and a gentle, sweet face. She seemed unsure of herself and was clearly at a loss as to what to choose.
‘Did you show them the cream satin?’
‘Yes, but Mrs Holland said the neckline was too low. I think her niece liked it, though.’
‘Let me see if I can persuade her to try it on.’
I took the dress from the rail and approached Mrs Holland, who had bought a dress the previous day for herself.
‘Ah, there you are, Amy. I wondered where you had got to. Can you find a pretty dress for Mary? She wants something that isn’t too sophisticated.’
‘I thought this might suit her?’ I offered the cream satin dress.
‘The neckline is much too low!’
‘It’s just right for me if the neckline were different,’ Mary said. ‘And it’s the only dress we’ve seen all afternoon that I like, Aunt.’
‘You are so difficult to please.’ Mrs Holland sighed. ‘I had hoped we wouldn’t have to have all your clothes made, Mary. It would be so much easier if we could buy at least some of them off the peg. Otherwise we shall be spending weeks on the fittings.’
‘Why don’t you let Mary try the dress on?’ I suggested. ‘I could have the alterations done by tomorrow – and if you don’t approve, Mrs Holland, we can return it to the rail.’
‘Would Miss O’Rourke be prepared to do that?’ Her eyes narrowed intently.
‘I think my suggestions will make the dress look perfect on Mary.’
‘Very well, you may try it on, Mary – but I want to see what it looks like before the alterations are done.’
I followed Mary into the changing rooms. She gave me a shy but grateful smile as I helped her slip the gown over her head.
‘Thank you for persuading my aunt into letting me try this,’ she said in a soft, nervous voice. ‘I loved it when the other girl showed it to us, but Aunt Emily said it was too sophisticated.’
‘Let me fasten the back for you … There. Now look at yourself.’
Mary twirled in front of the mirror. ‘It is beautiful, but I suppose the neckline is a bit low. I couldn’t wear it like that. My father wouldn’t approve. He likes young ladies to look modest.’
‘That’s easy to sort out.’ I took a pair of scissors and snipped through some stitching at the back of the heavily ruched neck. ‘We’ll make this much softer here and put a silk flower just there so that you can’t see it has been altered – do you see?’
‘Oh yes, that looks much better. You can’t see so much of me, can you?’ Mary looked pleased with the result of my work. ‘May I show my aunt?’
‘Let me just pin a flower. This isn’t the one we’ll use, but it gives you more idea of what it will look like.’
‘That’s even better. You are so clever, Amy.’
‘It’s what I should like to do – design gowns for people like you.’
‘You should do it,’ Mary said. ‘Let’s show Aunt Emily.’
We went out to the showroom where Mrs Holland was waiting. Her eyes went over Mary critically and then she nodded her approval.
‘That was very clever of you, Amy. How did you know what to do? Most shop girls wouldn’t have the first idea.’
‘I took a course in dress designing at art college,’ I replied. ‘It’s what I’d like to be doing – if I could get someone to buy my designs.’
‘Have you done many designs of your own?’
‘I have a folder of them upstairs. I draw them to amuse myself in the evenings.’
‘I would have thought an attractive young woman like yourself would be courting?’
‘Aunt Emily! That is so personal.’ Mary blushed and looked at me awkwardly.
‘I don’t mind. My young man is working in Manchester for six months. He has to save for another year or so before we can get married.’
‘He sounds like a thoroughly sensible young man.’ Mrs Holland looked thoughtful. ‘Will the alterations be done in your own workrooms?’
‘Yes, we do everything ourselves. Sally and Margaret are very good.’
‘The proof of that will be in the finished article. We shall see what you have made of this gown tomorrow. Come along, Mary. We still have to find you some shoes.’
Mary pulled a face at me as her aunt swept from the shop. I smiled at her but I was thoughtful as I took the gown into the workroom and explained what I wanted done.
Margaret smiled as I entered. She was a pretty girl with soft fair hair and a sweet face. She was a year older than me, but had been at work since she left school at fifteen.
She looked at what I’d done and then nodded her understanding.
‘Yes, I can see what you want, Amy. It gives a much nicer, softer effect for a young girl.’
‘Mrs Holland took some persuading, but I think I talked her round in the end. Make a really good job of it for me, won’t you? I think we might get several orders if they like the result.’
‘I shall do my best,’ Margaret said. ‘But it doesn’t look too difficult.’
‘If this works out for us it could mean a lot of extra work for you and Sally, and a lot more customers for the shop if my aunt likes my ideas.’
Margaret looked curious but I shook my head. I had to talk to Lainie first before I told anyone else.
Lainie stared at me as I finished showing her the designs in my folder that evening.
‘I’m not sure, Amy,’ she said. ‘I’ve always stuck to ready-made with a few simple alterations when necessary. Making individual gowns for customers would be a huge step to take.’
‘Yes, if we did it all the time, but we could try one or two of our own designs in the shop. If people liked them we could make them to order for special customers.’
‘But what about the cutting? That takes skill. I’m not sure my girls are up to it.’
‘I was taught to cut patterns at college, and Margaret told me she worked for a tailor for two years, though I’m not sure where she learned to cut. It’s a while since she did any, of course, because she hasn’t needed it here, but I am sure we could do it together.’
‘Margaret has never mentioned her extra skills to me.’ Lainie was thoughtful. ‘If I agree, you would like to show some of your designs to Mrs Holland tomorrow?’
‘Just those four dresses – two for evening and two for afternoon occasions. Nothing else I’ve done would be suitable for Mary, but if they liked the idea I could come up with more in a week or so.’
‘You know she will want to pay less than she would at any established couturier, don’t you? I’ve known Mrs Holland for years and she will never pay sixpence if a penny will do.’
‘I can work out the costs on these dresses and add on some profit for you, Lainie.’
‘And something for yourself. Don’t work for nothing, Amy. I know these people. They have more money than we could ever dream of, but they are as mean as can be. Some of them will do anything to avoid paying their bill.’
I laughed as she screwed up her mouth in disgust. ‘I’ll put an extra ten-per cent on top so that you can give her a discount if she asks. Besides, I think Mary usually gets her own way in the end.’
Lainie smiled at that. ‘I shall make a business woman of you yet.’
‘It’s my father coming out in me.’
‘Yes,’ she agreed. ‘It probably is. Joe Robinson knows a thing or two about making money. I’ve always admired him for that. It’s a good thing Bridget married him and not that Ernie Cole she was sweet on for a while.’
‘Did Mum really consider marrying that awful man?’
Lainie laughed. ‘He wasn’t so very awful then. Ernie was what we called a looker when he was young. It was a bad marriage that turned him sour, and then he had an accident and couldn’t do his proper work with the horses any more – and he was jealous of your father, of course. All that was a long time ago. We’ve put it behind us and moved on. You don’t need to bother your head about any of it, Amy.’
It was on the tip of my tongue to ask her what she meant, but I decided against it. The past was over and gone, and I was more interested in the future.
‘So what do you think?’ I asked eagerly. ‘Should I show Mrs Holland my designs or not?’
‘See what she thinks of the dress we’re altering when it’s finished, and then we’ll see how we go from there …’
Mrs Holland looked at Mary for what seemed like an age before she spoke, her expression giving nothing away until she finally nodded her approval.
‘Yes, that looks very profe
ssional, and much nicer for Mary now that the neckline is softer. Will you put it on my account, please, and send it to the usual address.’
‘Yes, of course, Mrs Holland. Is there anything else I can help you with?’
‘Mary will be having several social engagements over the next month or so, though she won’t be presented to Their Majesties as such. Her father was against that and he has the last say, though I would have arranged it all, of course. However, she has been invited to several more dances, afternoon parties and lunches, and she will have her own dance in September. Will you have anything suitable in stock before then?’
‘I wondered if you might like to look at one or two of the designs I told you about? There are a few that might suit Mary.’
She stared at me in silence for a moment. ‘Are you suggesting that the gowns could be made here for Mary?’
‘Yes, if you approved.’
‘They would need to be top quality.’
‘Of course. Would you care to see the designs?’
‘I would,’ Mary said. ‘Please may we, Amy?’
‘It won’t take a moment to fetch them. I left them in Miss O’Rourke’s office.’
My heart was racing as I walked into the office. I thought all four gowns would look well on Mary, who was a slender, fragile girl and could wear simple elegant styles with the softer look that Paul Poiret had first brought to the attention of fashionable women in the early years of the twentieth century. My own designs were similar, but with a more modern style and hemline; I had included a swatch of materials to show what I had in mind.
I handed two drawings to Mary and two to her aunt, feeling nervous. Would they like them or turn them down instantly? I held my breath as they examined each drawing in turn, exchanging them back and forwards more than once before Mary gave her verdict.
‘I like all of them, but I would prefer the blue evening gown in emerald-green.’
‘They look very stylish on paper,’ Mrs Holland said. ‘How long would it take to make one of these evening gowns?’
‘The blue one that Mary would prefer in green should take two weeks, because there is only one panel of beading on the back of the bodice. She would need to come for a preliminary fitting in a few days’ time, but the beading on the back should only take me a day or so. If I work at it I might have it done in ten days.’