by Robson Green
Also by Robson Green
Robson Green: Just the Beginning
First published in Great Britain by Simon & Schuster UK Ltd, 2013
A CBS COMPANY
Copyright © IWC Media Limited (a Zodiak Media Company) 2013
This book is copyright under the Berne Convention.
No reproduction without permission.
All rights reserved.
The right of Robson Green to be identified as the author of this work has been asserted by him in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988.
Simon & Schuster UK Ltd
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Simon & Schuster Australia, Sydney
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A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Hardback ISBN: 978-1-47112-748-9
Trade Paperback ISBN: 978-1-47112-803-5
Ebook ISBN: 978-1-47112-750-2
Typeset by M Rules
Printed and bound by CPI Group (UK) Ltd, Croydon, CR0 4YY
I dedicate this book to my beautiful son Taylor and to my Uncle Matheson who gave me everything I needed to know about Fishing – Robson
To my darling High Tower, Mom & Pops, Mo Granny and Robson – Charlotte
CONTENTS
1 Spain, the Canaries and the Azores
2 Costa Rica
3 Canada and British Columbia
4 Alaska
5 Boston and Cape Cod
6 The Philippines
7 Thailand
8 Kenya
9 Brazil
10 Cuba
11 Patagonia
12 Ascension Island
13 Papua New Guinea
14 Russia
Acknowledgements
About the Authors
List of Illustrations
Chapter One
SPAIN, THE CANARIES AND THE AZORES
‘Don’t Go All Scrambled Egg’
May 2008
I’m in the mid-Atlantic, off the coast of the Azores, powering through the waves on a high-tech fishing yacht. South African Captain Ian Carter and shipmate Steve Hall are taking me on a deep-sea adventure in pursuit of the Holy Grail of game fish, the Atlantic blue marlin. The sun is warm, birds are flying high in the sky above, and dolphins are leaping just metres from the boat. Conditions are perfect for catching a billfish and Ian tells me I’m here at exactly the right time, when the Gulf Stream brings the marlin within striking distance.
We’ve been motoring across the ocean for four and half hours and at last we’re approaching our destination. Ian slows down and we put out squid lures at the back of the boat and begin to trawl. The vibrations of the boat should help attract marlin and maybe, just maybe, one will take the bait. We trawl and we trawl but nothing is going for our lures. The hours tick by. Unlike our reels, everyone is at full tension.
Suddenly, Steve tells Ian to change course. He can ‘smell fish’. I sniff the air; I can’t smell a bloody thing. I sniff again: nope, nothing. Ian swings the boat round and heads west. Steve points at a small slick of oil on the water; we’re going to head straight through it. It’s a sign that something is feeding on bait fish, possibly sardines or mackerel. We’re closing in on our target. I ask Steve for some advice in case I am lucky enough to hook a blue.
He is a man of few words. He says, in his North Carolina drawl, ‘I’ll be watching from the corner of my eye. I’ll say “Go to the chair”, and you go. Just take your time and don’t go all scrambled egg, do you know what I mean?’
Right, got it. No, actually I haven’t. What the hell does that mean?
About twenty minutes later, and with little time left on the clock before we have to return, one of the reels starts making a loud whirring sound, like a primitive yawn. We are in! The line is taken out at high speed, 200 metres or more.
‘Hold me glasses. Hold me glasses!’ I say, panicking and flapping like the actor I am. My heart is pounding as I click on the harness and take the rod. The fight is immensely powerful. It must be a marlin but I’m not certain. I am yanked forward violently and swung round in the chair. I lean back with all my might, release and reel, ten to the dozen. And very slowly I begin to bring the fish closer to the boat. But soon it turns and runs again, stripping the line out another 150 metres.
‘Please, please stay on the line. I beg you to stay on the line,’ I say.
‘Relax,’ says Steve, but that is impossible right now.
I wind as fast as I can without letting the line go slack, otherwise I could lose the fish. Think positive, Robson. My muscles are burning and my arms feel as if they are going to drop off. Ian is backing up the boat to help me. I am hard-boiled, not scrambled. Hard! I shout at myself internally, like a fishing coxswain. Come on, Robson. Come on! I fight with all my might for fifty minutes, winding and pulling, when suddenly a 500-pound blue marlin bursts though the crest of a wave, piercing the sky with her spear.
She is the most amazing creature I have ever seen. Her body is midnight blue with a silvery white belly and faint cobalt stripes on her side. I am awe-struck. Makaira nigricans, the ‘black sword’ of the Atlantic (in Latin, machaera is a sword and nigricans means ‘becoming black’). She is the reason we have come here and it’s taken only a matter of hours to find her. It took poor old Santiago eighty-five days to catch a marlin in Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea. Our budget just wouldn’t stretch to that.
Jaded, I slowly reel in my beautiful fish. She is tired, too. Steve grabs the line and pulls her to the side of the boat. For this to count as a catch, he needs to get hold of the last bit of the filament, called the leader, which connects the line on the rod and reel to the hook. We can’t bring the fish on board as the species is not only protected but also seriously dangerous. Steve leans out and grips the leader with his right hand and smiles at me. We have officially caught an Atlantic blue marlin.
We all stand and stare silently at the magnificent fish moving with the waves at the side of the boat. With a gloved hand, Steve carefully ‘bills’ the fish by firmly grasping her spear so she can’t injure anyone. Marlin use their bills to slash and kill schools of fish before they feed and they have been known to spear boats and the odd fisherman, too, including one woman I read about on the Internet who was pierced through the chest when a marlin leapt onto the boat. The only thing that saved her was her breast implant. Perhaps Katie Price should be doing this show instead of me. After all, she is better equipped.
I run my hand across the marlin’s back and say goodbye. Steve unhooks her and releases the bill. Capable of swimming at up to 68 m.p.h., she is gone in a matter of seconds. Everyone is pumped with emotion and adrenalin; the marlin was truly astonishing and her magic lingers. We hug and engage in male back-slapping.
‘Don’t forget to breathe,’ says Steve.
We return to shore, the marlin flag upside down to show we’ve caught and released an Atlantic blue today. I am a hero and this episode is a triumph – except that this is television and our fishing adventure hasn’t been quite as clear-cut as it would seem.
In reality, we have just pulled off a miracle at the eleventh hour. The show was on the verge of being cancelled and my career well and truly down the pan. Extreme Fishing could have been my second Vietnam, the first being my singing career with Jerome. Director Ian Lilley and I hug each other out of pure relief. He goes back to projectile vomiting off the side of the boat, which he and his assistant, Anna Hassan, have been doing for the past few days. I have done most of the filming myself, by fixing the camera to the side of the boat and talking into it. It’s the eighth day of a d
isastrous trip and we are all exhausted. Catching the blue marlin has pulled us back from the brink and it’s all thanks to one extraordinary man, Steve: The Man Who Can Smell Fish.
Rewind to eight days earlier. I’ve just landed my own fishing show. I am unbearable to my wife, colleagues and peers. What mortal can resist the sensuous mix of exotic travel, hard cash and fish? In every fisherman’s eyes I’ve won the lottery. My mentor and uncle, Matheson Green, who taught me to fish as a boy, is sick as a parrot with envy; he’s also very proud. I, however, am smug and heading for a fall, and it comes sooner than I think.
Some people say the anticipatory fear of doing something is far worse than actually doing it. What a load of old cobblers. From the moment I step on to the plane to Madrid I know I have made a terrible mistake. Matters aren’t helped at Heathrow when an old woman comes rushing over and says, ‘Eeeh, look who it is and I haven’t got my teeth in.’ She continues, ‘I’ve got your album – I got it free with a chicken at the supermarket.’ She thinks she is paying me a compliment, and goes on to tell me she uses the CD cover to stop her fridge from wobbling. The director, Ian, literally has to pick me off the floor, where my ego lies in tatters.
River Ebro
Our first port of call is the River Ebro in Spain. I am supposed to catch a wels catfish today but at the moment I feel I’m more likely to suffer a heart attack. I take my pulse subtly in the van – it’s over 100 beats per minute. I need beta blockers. Fishing used to be my stress relief but not anymore. Not only do I have to fish on camera but I also have to present, and I’m not really used to being myself in front of, well, anyone these days. I prefer to dress up, slap on the make-up and pretend to be someone else. Anyone but me.
I swallow hard as I prepare for my first piece to camera. We enter a local drinking hole in Mequinenza, full of rowdy British cat-fishermen. It looks like the bar in Star Wars, where Han Solo meets Chewbacca. Talk about an owner looking like his dog; these guys all look like catfish, complete with hairy barbels.
This place is obsessed with catfish and here in Spain they grow to epic proportions. If they’re not in the river, they’re on the wall. A 150-pound giant protrudes out of the brown wood above the bar, like an ichthyic tumour.
‘To me it looks like it’s swum past a nuclear power station. It’s too big; it’s not right,’ I say, jabbering at the camera.
Everyone is staring at me. Just pretend you’re Noel Edmonds, Robson, I think. He makes the camera his friend; he has a winning formula. But I don’t want to be bloody Noel Edmonds. He’s a bit creepy, with too much facial hair, and I don’t trust men with beards. Blind panic descends as I look around and see everyone in the bar has a beard. I don’t know what the hell I’m doing and they’re all staring at me thinking ‘You lucky Geordie git – how did you get a fishing programme?’ And I’m thinking exactly the same thing. I’m racing my words and I’m so tense I sound as if I’ve had a hit of helium. I’m somewhere between Noel Edmonds and Alan Carr, and that’s not a place I’d like to be.
The first take is a disaster and we need to re-shoot the scene. It’s not getting any better and my inner voices are now shouting.
Why the hell are you doing this, Robson?
Because I didn’t think it through.
You’re winging it and dying on your arse. You need a script. You don’t even know who you are without a script. Why haven’t you got an American series like Hugh Laurie or Damian Lewis?
Because I didn’t go to Eton. No, it’s because you’re fannying around pretending to present a fishing show. Oh God, I’m a fraud. I want to go home.
‘And, action!’ shouts the director.
I have nothing to give so I waffle. We move outside to meet Birmingham-born contributor Colin Bunn, who is going to help me catch a catfish. Up until this point the biggest fish I have ever caught is a four-pound trout and an eighteen-pound salmon. Colin’s nice but I can tell deep down he pities me.
Although I’ve never landed a wels catfish before, I’ve thankfully done loads of research. For example, I know that catfish are also known as sheatfish – and that’s not a Geordie insult. (‘You call this a catfish, bonny lad? I call it a sheat fish!’ In fact, it sounds more French: ‘Zay are really sheat fish.’) I rehearse some lines in my head ready to use on camera. ‘The Latin name is Silurus glanis, they have good hearing and can live for around thirty years. The species is not indigenous to the area and there are concerns about the ecological impact on the Ebro, including a decimation of the endemic Iberian barbel species.’ Colin sets up a couple of rods and I relate the facts to camera like rapid machine-gun fire. It is another total waste of video tape.
I give up talking directly to the camera and instead get some tips from our contributor. Colin, like many other Brits, used to come here fishing on holiday and loved it so much that he moved here permanently. I want to know if these catfish really do live up to their fearsome reputation.
‘I can give you an example,’ says Colin. ‘Put your two hands on the rod.’
I lift the heavy rod as he instructs. Colin gets on the other end of it and yanks me forward, pulling the line up and down sharply.
‘That’s what they’re like, and they shake their heads like this so you get that banging action.’
After the demonstration we crack on with the real thing. Colin’s mate, Ashley, rows the bait out into the middle of the river and drops it in. We are using halibut pellets, which are fed to farmed fish. They look a bit like pony nuts, which possibly explains why some of the catfish are the size of Welsh Cobs.
‘I’ve heard they can take egrets off the surface,’ I say.
‘And swans,’ says Colin.
OK, Colin, I see your swan and I raise you. ‘And wild boar,’ I add.
‘Yeah, anything that swims in there that’s big enough.’
Anglers have been known to tell a few tall tales in their time but this fish really does have an incredible reputation. In the eighteenth century, it was reported that the body of a woman had been found inside a catfish. Well, I wouldn’t mind curling up in one right now, because at least I would be dying in private rather than in full view of the cameras.
One of the sensors starts to bleep. Colin hands me the rod and I pretend to know what I’m doing. The fish packs a punch and I am immediately working hard. It runs, almost pulling me into the water as Colin had demonstrated.
‘Just pump and wind,’ Colin says. What he means is that I need to lift the rod to pull the fish towards me, then wind it in quickly. If I just try to reel, the reel could break, or burn out the clutch. Either way, I could lose the fish and, after all this effort and anxiety, that’s not something I’m prepared to do. Deep down I know I am living the dream; I’m just looking forward to the time I can start enjoying it.
The catfish hoves into view in the shallows. Colin gets hold of it by the lip and passes the large fella to me. This is my chance to share my knowledge of catfish with the viewer, but all I can say is: ‘Look at the size of that! Oh, my goodness, what a beautiful creature.’ I look down at it again, with its massive mouth and strange fleshy whiskers (barbels); it’s certainly not a looker. Beautiful? Why did I say that? It’s impressive but not pretty – a bit like Ann Widdecombe.
The fish is weighed and comes in at 33.5 pounds. I carry it back to the river and release it to swim another day. Thank God I didn’t fail on the fishing side of things on my first outing: I can’t present but at least I can fish. I take a breath as I look across the murky Ebro to the verdant Spanish countryside; it really is lovely here. Right, let’s see if I can reel in another. Over the next few hours it’s a catfish-fest. I land a dozen fish and my personal best is ninety pounds – the biggest river fish I have ever caught. All together a 400-pound haul isn’t bad for a day’s work.
I pick up the phone to the producer, Hamish Barbour. I want to talk about my problems in depth. He listens.
‘Basically, Hamish, it’s all been a big mistake. I can’t present to save my life. I might
have got lucky with the catfish, but I’m feeling like a total fraud – the only fishing I’ve done is on some streams in the northeast. Why didn’t you choose Paxman? Or Chris Tarrant, an angling ninja and an actual TV presenter? Hamish, you’ve got the wrong man.’
‘No, we haven’t, Robson. We want you. We believe in you. You have something they don’t.’
‘What’s that? Well, I suppose I am better looking.’
‘Exactly. They’ll never look as good on camera as you do.’
This is music to every shallow actor’s ears – all we want to know is that we look good on camera. Hamish, the TV Svengali and puppet-master, plays me like a carp in a bucket. (No offence to carp fishermen, although they hate me already – but more on that later.) After our chat, my confidence slowly starts to return. I realise I need to embrace the opportunity and stop worrying. Everything is going to be OK.
Later that evening we travel by car to the coast just south of Barcelona. We’re all tired but we have to shoot a night fishing sequence. Centuries ago, fishermen used to catch fish by putting flames on the water to attract sardines, rather like moths. Tonight we are using halogen lamps. Without sardines big fish wouldn’t exist, and I enthuse about the species on camera. It’s going really well.
I am on a boat with director Jeremy Cadle and two guys who don’t speak a word of English. My Spanish is also poor. It’s pitch black save the lanterns and a few torches, and as the fish come to the surface I say to Jeremy, ‘Aren’t those a bit big for sardines?’
‘No,’ he says.
‘In fact, are you’re sure they’re not mackerel?’
‘No, Robson, they are sardines,’ he says with the utmost authority.
‘Oh, OK,’ I reply, assuming he must be a marine biologist. He is not.
We film for seven hours, gathering the fish in nets. I do a PTC (piece to camera) about the sardines and the fact that I have never caught so many fish in such a short time. There are thousands of them. I take one in my hands and say, ‘If it weren’t for sardines, big game fish like marlin wouldn’t exist.’ One of the Spanish guys lightly taps me on the arm but I ignore him and carry on talking. He coughs loudly. He is ruining my PTC.