by Dana Thomas
In 2003: Miles Socha, “Milking Fashion’s Cash Cows,” WWD the Magazine, November 3, 2003, p. 88.
She was born in: Wallach, Chanel, pp. 5–18.
She made her way: Ibid., pp. 19–31.
First she did a test: Alex Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own (New York: Henry Holt, 1990), p. 135.
Théophile Bader: Ibid., p. 136.
Throughout the 1920s: Stanley Karnow, Paris in the Fifties (New York: Random House, 1997), p. 273.
Her first collection: Wallach, Chanel, p. 150.
Even Christian Dior: Ibid., p. 154.
Together, they do: Chandler Burr, “The Scent of the Nile,” New Yorker, March 14, 2005, p. 78.
In late 2006: Brid Costello and Matthew W. Evans, “Givaudan-Quest: Creating a New Number One,” Women’s Wear Daily, November 27, 2006, p. 3.
Take Dior’s brief: Burr, “Scent of the Nile,” p. 78.
“All I see”: “Fashion Scoops: In the Flesh,” Women’s Wear Daily, July 11, 2001, p. 5.
They can be: Burr, “Scent of the Nile,” p. 87.
When Alain Lorenzo: Joshua Levine, “Liberté, Fraternité—but to Hell with Egalité!” Forbes, June 2, 1997, p. 80.
CHAPTER SIX: IT’S IN THE BAG
Handbags have: Andrea Lee, “Bag Lady,” New Yorker, September 25, 2006, p. 80.
“It’s like you’ve”: Anna Johnson, Handbags: The Power of the Purse (New York: Workman, 2002), p. 54.
I read about: Reggie Nadelson, “Out of the Box,” Departures, May–June, 2002, p. 146.
In September 2005: Ben Widdicombe, “Gatecrasher,” New York Daily News, September 10, 2005, p. 20.
At the Venice Biennale: Farid Chenoune, Carried Away: All About Bags (Paris: Le Passage Paris—New York Editions, 2004), p. 72.
Jackie Onassis: Nadelson, “Out of the Box,” p. 143.
Maryvonne Pinault: Ibid., p. 176.
Carrying into a jury: Robin Givhan, “Martha’s Moneyed Bag Carries Too Much Baggage,” Washington Post, January 22, 2004, p. C1.
Among the more: Nadelson, “Out of the Box,” p. 146.
In 2003: Pascale Renaux, “L’Ange Guardian,” Numéro, October 2003, p. 302.
“We are frightened”: Nadelson, “Out of the Box,” p. 150.
Whereas Gucci Group’s: Lisa Lockwood, “Polet’s Prescription for Changing Gucci,” Women’s Wear Daily, November 16, 2005, p. 45.
In 1995: Christopher Dickey, “C’est Chic, C’est French,” Newsweek International, March 17, 1997, p. 38.
This persecution: Nadelson, “Out of the Box,” p. 177.
As he likes: Dickey, “C’est Chic, C’est French,” p. 38.
Sales were so slow: Bridget Foley, “Full Galop,” W, March 1998, p. 230.
He found the rue: Helmut Newton, Autobiography (New York: Doubleday, 2003), pp. 241–42.
The modern handbag: Chenoune, Carried Away, passim.
“Listen, Diana”: Diana Vreeland, D.V. (New York: Knopf, 1984), p. 89.
It had no monogram: Johnson, Handbags, p. 7.
“We’ve got into the”: Chenoune, Carried Away, p. 32.
In 1986: Palmer White, The Master Touch of Lesage: Embroidery for French Fashion (Paris: Editions du Chêne, 1987), p. 134.
As Holly Brubach: Holly Brubach, “In Fashion: Forward Motion,” New Yorker, June 25, 1990, p. 77.
It became: Andrea Lee, “Bag Lady,” New Yorker, September 25, 2006, p. 80.
Market sources: Miles Socha, with contributions by Jennifer Weil, “LVMH Profits Pass $1 Billion,” Women’s Wear Daily, March 10, 2005, p. 9.
Between 1994 and 1998: David B. Yoffie and Mary Kwak, “Gucci Group N.V. (A),” Harvard Business School, case 9–701–037, September 19, 2000; revised May 10, 2001, p. 11.
That year, Frankfort: Barbara Woller, “First-Class Coach,” Journal News, May 23, 2005, p. 1D.
From 2001 to 2006: Claire A. Kent, Mandy Deex, Rachel Whittaker, Angela Moh, and Andy Xie, “Luxury Goods in China: A Long-Term Investment,” Morgan Stanley, February 27, 2004, p. 13.
A brown leather tag: Alessandra Galloni, Cecilie Rohwedder, and Teri Agins, “Foreign Luxuries: Breaking a Taboo, High Fashion Starts Making Goods Overseas,” Wall Street Journal, September 27, 2005, p. A1.
In May 2005: Adam Jones, “Prada Ponders Outsourcing to China,” Financial Times, May 20, 2005, p. 10.
CHAPTER SEVEN: THE NEEDLE AND THE DAMAGE DONE
It has been used: Nina Hyde, “Silk, the Queen of Textiles,” National Geographic, January 1984, p. 48.
Back in the 1920s: Pietra Pietrogrande, Antico Setificio Fiorentino (Florence, Italy: Le Lettere, 1999), p. 71.
Back in the factory’s: Ibid., p. 95.
On some farms: Hyde, “Silk, the Queen of Textiles,” pp. 14–19.
The Chinese began: Ibid., pp. 27–30.
One recounts: Ibid., p. 36.
Another tells: Pietrogrande, Antico Setifico Fiorentino, p. 21.
One of the early centers: Ibid., pp. 33–43.
In 2004: Alessandra Galloni, Cecilie Rohwedder, and Teri Agins, “Foreign Luxuries: Breaking a Taboo, High Fashion Starts Making Goods Overseas,” Wall Street Journal, September 27, 2005, p. A1.
One-fourth of Hong Kong’s: Ted C. Fishman, China Inc. (New York: Scribner, 2005), p. 88.
By the mid- 1990s: Ibid., p. 89.
In September 2006: “In Brief: Actor Appeals to Burberry,” Women’s Wear Daily, November 27, 2006, p. 2.
In November: David Cracknell and Jonathan Leake, “Charles Joins the Burberry Revolt,” Times (London), November 26, 2006, p. 4.
Peter Hain: Samantha Conti, “Burberry to Close Factory,” Women’s Wear Daily, January 11, 2007, p. 15.
Today, there are: “Swatches: Canton Connection,” Women’s Wear Daily, January 3, 2006, p. 8.
China’s textiles: John Zarcostas, “China’s Textile Exports Soar 23.8 Percent,” Women’s Wear Daily, January 10, 2006, p. 8.
In late 2005: George Wehrfritz, “A River in Reverse,” Newsweek International, January 30, 2006, p. 53.
The constant pressure: John Zarocostas, “Global Labor Study Cites Human Rights Violations,” Women’s Wear Daily, October 19, 2005, p. 19.
“Chinese factories”: Jane Perlez, “Vietnam Arrives as an Economic Player in Asia,” International Herald Tribune, June 20, 2006, p. 2.
“China is no longer”: Luisa Zargani, “China Trains Eye on Italian Firms,” Women’s Wear Daily, February 22, 2006, p. 13.
CHAPTER EIGHT: GOING MASS
America Online: Annie Groer, “The New Gilded Age,” Washington Post, August 1, 1999, p. F1.
According to a University: Juliet B. Schor, The Overspent American: Why We Want What We Don’t Need (New York: HarperPerennial, 1999), p. 14.
According to a Roper: Ibid., p. 16.
Since 1970: Michael J. Silverstein and Neil Fiske, with John Butman, Trading Up: The New American Luxury (New York: Portfolio, 2003), pp. 25–26.
By 2005: Sharon Edelson, “Chasing Big Spenders: Stores Step Up Services for Key Luxe Customers,” Women’s Wear Daily, August 1, 2006, p. 1.
Between 1979 and 1995: Schor, Overspent American, p. 12.
According to a 1997 study: Ibid., 159.
Between 1990 and 1996: Ibid., p. 72.
Yet it wasn’t enough: Ibid., p. 6.
In 2004: “Accessible Luxury—What It Is and Why It’s Working,” Ledbury Research, November 8, 2004.
“When we look”: David D. Kirkpatrick, “The Luxury Wars,” New York Magazine, April 26, 1999, p. 24.
And MGM Mirage: Sharon Edelson, “Taubman Plans for Big Names at Vegas Center,” Women’s Wear Daily, September 21, 2005, p. 5.
“It was jolting”: Karen Heller, “On Deep Discount, Prada Has Never Looked Worse,” Philadelphia Inquirer, January 6, 2006, p. M3.
“The 1980s”: Booth Moore, “Outlet for That Energy,” Los Angeles Times, September 1, 2005, p. 28.
“I once got home”: Laura Landro, “Style—Hunting & Gathering: Catwalk Chic on the Ch
eap,” Wall Street Journal, September 17, 2005, p. 11.
But, says Linda Humphers: Moore, “On Deep Discount,” p. 28.
But the average: Ibid.
“The winning formula”: Ibid.
“The luxury industry”: Vanessa Friedman, “An Online Business Model Dressed to Kill,” Financial Times, May 30, 2006, p. 10.
It ran a huge overhead: Karen Lowry Miller, “Hitting the Wall at Boo,” Newsweek Atlantic Edition, July 17, 2000, p. 42.
Analysts believe: Cathy Horyn, “Point, Click and Strut,” New York Times, December 15, 2005, p. 1.
Furthermore, Forrester: Luca S. Paderni, with Jaap Favier and Manuela Neurauter, “Louis Vuitton Takes Online Luxury Shopping Mainstream,” Forrester Research, November 8, 2005.
The primary culprits: Lisa Bertagnoli, “To Catch a Thief: Independent Retailers Forgo High Tech Gizmos and Gadgets in Favor of Old-Fashioned Security Measures,” Women’s Wear Daily, October 13, 2004, p. 58S.
Luxury’s most famous: Adam Tschorn, “Hollywood’s Walk of Shame,” Women’s Wear Daily, February 24, 2004, p. 34S.
“It’s not normal”: Guy Trebay, “Shoplifting on a Grand Scale: Luxury Wear Stolen to Order,” New York Times, August 8, 2000, p. B1.
In Minnesota: Schor, Overspent American, p. 40.
Andrew McColl: Trebay, “Shoplifting,” p. B1.
At times, robberies: Rosemary Feitelberg, “Two Nabbed in Versace Hold-Up; Boston Boutique Site of Armed Robbery,” Women’s Wear Daily, May 12, 1997, p. 23.
The pros: Trebay, “Shoplifting,” p. B1.
“They obviously”: Greg Lindsay, “Sticky Fingers,” Women’s Wear Daily, January 27, 2004, p. 23.
Chavs are: Rob Walker, “The Good, the Plaid and the Ugly,” New York Times Magazine, January 2, 2005, p. 20.
As Kim Hastreiter: Kim Hastreiter and David Hershkovits, Twenty Years of Style: The World According to Paper (New York: Harper Design International, 2004), p. 34.
Logos—particularly: Teri Agins, The End of Fashion: How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business Forever (New York: Quill, 2000), p. 111.
Gianni Versace: Ibid., p. 139.
“What can we do?”: Gideon Rachman, “Bubbles and Bling,” Economist, Summer 2006, p. 20.
“I view”: George Rush and Joanna Molloy, “Daily Dish,” New York Daily News, June 15, 2006, p. 26.
In 2001: Scott, Huver and Mia Kuczinski Dunn, Inside Rodeo Drive: The Store, the Stars, the Story (Santa Monica, Calif.: Angel City Press, 2001), p. 34.
CHAPTER NINE: FAUX AMIS
In 1948: Stanley Karnow, Paris in the Fifties (New York: Random House, 1997), pp. 260–61.
In 1982: International Anti-Counterfeiting Coalition, white paper, January 2005, p. 3.
In 2004: Ted C. Fishman, “Manufaketure,” New York Times Magazine, January 9, 2005, p. 40.
In 2002: IACC white paper, p. 20.
Prada CEO: Robin Progrebin, “Reality Check,” Connoisseur, n.d., p. 140.
As Jasper Becker: Jasper Becker, The Chinese (New York: Free Press, 2000), pp. 74–75.
A month later: Evan Clark, “U.S. Report Calls for Action on Intellectual Property Laws,” Women’s Wear Daily, May 2, 2005, p. 16.
That same month: “U.S. Charges 17 with Trafficking in Counterfeit Goods, Money Laundering, Attempted Bribery of a Public Official,” United States Attorney Southern District of New York, press release, June 4, 2004.
The street value: Progrebin, “Reality Check,” p. 140.
The same is true: Peter S. Goodman, “In China, a Growing Taste for Chic; But Fakes Also Vex Developing Market,” Washington Post, July 12, 2004, p. A1.
Many of the street-level: Marcus Mabry and Alan Zarembo, “Africa’s Capitalist Jihad,” Newsweek Atlantic Edition, July 7, 1997, p. 42.
During a two-day: Julia Preston, “U.S. Charges 51 with Chinatown Smuggling,” New York Times, November 13, 2004, p. B2.
CHAPTER TEN: WHAT NOW?
In 2006: Emily Flynn Vencat, “Shaping the New Looks,” Newsweek International, May 15–22, 2006, p. 82.
In 2004: Paul Klebnikov, “Russia’s Richest People: The Golden Hundred,” Forbes.com, July 22, 2004.
The Chinese didn’t: Claire A. Kent, Mandy Deex, Rachel Whittaker, Angela Moh, and Andy Xie, “Luxury Goods in China: A Long-Term Investment,” Morgan Stanley, February 27, 2004, p. 4.
“It’s cheaper”: Lisa Movius, “Shanghai’s Bund 18 Luring Luxury Brands,” Women’s Wear Daily, January 11, 2005, p. 18.
By 2004: Kent, Deex, Whittaker, Moh, and Xie, “Luxury Goods in China,” p. 6.
“In other provinces”: Sarah Mowar, “Dressed to Shanghai,” Vogue, October 2004, p. 336.
“We are still”: Lisa Movius, “China’s Luxury Rush: Expanding Vuitton Shows Market’s Growth,” Women’s Wear Daily, December 29, 2005, p. 12.
By the end of 2006: Amanda Kaiser, “Tilling the Luxury Landscape,” Women’s Wear Daily, March 21, 2006, p. 2B.
Calvin Klein: Lisa Movius, “Valentino Unveils Women’s for Mainland China,” Women’s Wear Daily, September 26, 2006, p. 17.
Since its arrival: Zhu Ling, “Louis Vuitton to Open Three New Stores in China,” www.chinadaily.com.cn/bizchina/2006–05/15/content_589908.htm, May 15, 2006.
Mainland China: Luisa Zargani, “Luxury and the Lands of Opportunity,” Women’s Wear Daily, November 29, 2004, p. 4.
“Three years ago”: Lisa Movius, “Bulgari Continues Expanding in China,” Women’s Wear Daily, September 29, 2006, p. 22.
“Mainlanders go”: Tom Miller, “Shopping Is the Lure for Mainlanders,” South China Morning Post, November 7, 2005, p. 16.
Mainlanders are enrolling: Howard W. French, “In China, the Upper-Class Quest Starts Low—at Age 5,” International Herald Tribune, September 22, 2006, p. 1.
“I have customers”: “Seeking Russian Gold: Despite Turmoil, Brands Rush to Booming Market,” Women’s Wear Daily, September 30, 2004, p. 1.
At many of Armani’s: Miles Socha, “Couture’s New Hope: Russia, Asia and the Mideast,” Women’s Wear Daily, January 23, 2006, p. 5.
Outside of Moscow: Natasha Singer, “Russia’s Luxury Mania: Stores Grab Real Estate to Build New Empires,” Women’s Wear Daily, October 4, 2004, p. 1.
After the 1998: Robert Galbraith, “Courting the New Russian and Indian Luxury Consumers,” International Herald Tribune, September 30, 2005, p. 14.
For the Dior opening: Miles Socha and Brid Costella, “Christian Dior’s New Flagship on Red Square,” Women’s Wear Daily, October 24, 2006, p. 3.
Nearby, Mercury Group: Singer, “Russia’s Luxury Mania,” p. 1.
“Before we designed”: Ibid.
Christian Dior reported: “Seeking Russian Gold,” p. 1.
In 2005: Galbraith, “Courting the New Russian and Indian Luxury Consumers,” p. 14.
“People have the money”: Rosemary Feitelberg, “On to India, China,” Women’s Wear Daily, December 5, 2006, p. 17.
There are more: Ibid.
A study by Bain: Ibid.
The most coveted: Cecily Hall, “Far East Fashion-Forward,” Women’s Wear Daily, June 1, 2006, p. 12.
“In just the last year”: Betsy Lowther, “The Treasures of India: As Luxe Brands Rush In, Prime Space Runs Out,” Women’s Wear Daily, November 7, 2006, p. 1.
Analysts at McKinsey: Vencat, “Shaping the New Looks,” p. 82.
“The chance of”: Amy S. Choi, “Eyeing India’s Riches: As Barriers Come Down, Luxury Brands Go Slow,” Women’s Wear Daily, March 13, 2006, p. 1.
State governments: Ritu Upadhyay, “Bombay Dispatch: Expanding Malls,” Women’s Wear Daily, March 13, 2006, p. 11.
The finance ministry: Choi, “Eyeing India’s Riches,” p. 1.
“It’s a PR machine”: “Talk about Branding,” Time, June 2005, Bonus Section, p. A4.
“Our hotels”: J. J. Martin, “Travel with Style,” Harper’s Bazaar, Fall 2006, p. 89.
Fashion darling: Miles Socha, “Philo Said Working with Gap,” Women�
�s Wear Daily, November 27, 2006, p. 2.
Burberry began: Claire Kent, Mandy Deex, Elke Finkenauer, Rachel Whittaker, “Luxury & Apparel Retail,” Morgan Stanley Equity Research Europe, March 7, 2005, p. 17.
Mizrahi calls: Ibid., p. 10.
CHAPTER ELEVEN: NEW LUXURY
In early 2006: Amanda Kaiser, “Jil Sander Loss Hits $46.3 Million in 2005,” Women’s Wear Daily, May 30, 2006, p. 3.
“All these big”: Sarah Raper, “LVMH’s Arnault: The Tower and the Glory,” Women’s Wear Daily, December 6, 1999, p. 8.
Burberry CEO: “Continental Compensation,” Women’s Wear Daily, July 17, 2003, p. 14.
according to Forbes: www.forbes.com/lists/2006/12/Rank_1.html.
“A mobile phone”: Luisa Zargani, with contributions by Alessandra Ilari, “Prada Calling Via Venture with LG,” Women’s Wear Daily, December 13, 2006, p. 11.
“She says”: Holly Brubach, “In Fashion: Forward Motion,” New Yorker, June 25, 1990, p. 79.
The wealthiest: Sharon Edelson, “Chasing Big Spenders: Stores Step Up Services for Key Luxe Customers,” Women’s Wear Daily, August 1, 2006, p. 1.
Danielle Morolo: Ibid.
“My best customer”: Ibid.
Saks Fifth Avenue: Ibid.
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Agins, Teri. The End of Fashion: How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business Forever. New York: Quill, 2000.
Arnault, Bernard. La Passion Créative: Entretiens avec Yves Messarovitch. Paris: Plon, 2000.
Becker, Jasper. The Chinese. New York: Free Press, 2000.
Bindloss, Joseph; Sarina Singh; Deanna Swaney; and Robert Strauss. Mauritius, Réunion & Seychelles. Victoria, Australia: Lonely Planet, 2001.
Bloch, Phillip. Elements of Style: From the Portfolio of Hollywood’s Premier Stylist. New York: Warner, 1998.
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Burr, Chandler. The Emperor of Scent: A Story of Perfume, Obsession and the Last Mystery of the Senses. New York: Random House, 2002.
Celant, Germano, and Harold Koda. Giorgio Armani. New York: Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, 2000.
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