by Jo Malone
25. Strolling down the beach at Parrot Cay – the place where Pomelo, my first Jo Loves fragrance, came to life.
Great Friends
26. My dear friend Isy Ettedgui, who helped me create the iconic packaging for Jo Malone London.
27. Joel Cadbury, who’s always been there for me.
28. Charlotte McCarthy on the morning we announced Jo Loves to the world . . . from the kitchen table.
29. Launching Jo Loves with a pop-up at Selfridges – from our initial red and black branding, to working flat out through the night, to stocking the shelves with product.
30. Life comes full circle and takes me right back to the beginning: from Justin de Blank at No.42 Elizabeth Street to Jo Loves – my forty-ninth birthday present.
31. The beautiful fragrance brasserie, as seen from the front of the shop, looking through to the Candle Cocktail Bar at the back.
32. Kathy Phillips joined me in making a candle. Kathy is a dear friend as well as the first journalist to write a story about how we built our first brand from a tiny kitchen.
33. In The Candle Shot Studio with Jacquie Tovey, making lots of candles for the Christmas orders.
34. Showing Gary and Naomi Harford the beauty of Grasse and my beloved Mougins.
35. In the heart of Mougins – rediscovering a love affair with creativity again . . . and trusting the artist in me. I love this picture because it’s captured by my son, Josh.
36. The Perfumer’s Organ – an array of notes from which ‘a nose’ selects the scents that make up a fragrance.
37. Dubai 2016 – the great honour of being received into the World Retail Congress Hall of Fame, followed by a private audience with His Highness Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, UAE Vice President, Prime Minister and Ruler of Dubai, and his ministers. A truly wonderful moment.
INDEX
A note about the index: The pages referenced in this index refer to the page numbers in the print edition. Clicking on a page number will take you to the ebook location that corresponds to the beginning of that page in the print edition. For a comprehensive list of locations of any word or phrase, use your reading system’s search function.
JM in an index entry refers to Jo Malone
acupuncture 289–90
Agal UK Ltd 211
AIDS Foundation 308–9
air travel, coping with 219
Airlie Gardens 109, 113, 119, 122
Andrew, Prince 126–7
Angelina’s, Rue de Rivoli 164
Angelou, Maya 386
Ankarcrona, Sandra 184
Antigua 303–4
Armani, Giorgio 189, 195, 212
Ashley, Laura 399
Bailey, Christopher 222
Bailey, David 391
Baker, Chris 256
Baldwin’s herbalists 53
Balfern Street 125, 137–8
Ballard, Roland and Miranda 341
Barnehurst 4
Baxter, Pame la 231
Bay City Rollers 60
Beaux, Ernest 161
Bennett, Deborah 180, 188, 190
Bergdorf Goodman 212–20, 230, 235
Bergman, Ingrid 96
Bible school 110–11, 277
Big Freeze (1963) 8
The Boltons 71
Bongo, Ali 24
Bonnie Kids Agency 12, 14
Born, Pete 319
Brady, Shayne 389
brand imagery 184, 185, 189, 351–2, 353, 356, 357, 358, 375, 376–7, 378, 379
Brasserie Zédel 388
Bravo, Rose Marie 220–2, 291
Breakfast at Tiffany’s 214
Breast Cancer Research Foundation 261
Broccoli, Barbara 391
Brown, Bobbi 232
Buckingham Palace 142–3, 332, 333–4
Burberry 222
Burr, Chandler 175–6
Cadbury, Divia 303, 309
Cadbury, Joel 292, 303, 309, 326–7
Café Colbert 388
Camden Market 336
Cameron, David 391
Campbell Gray, Gordon 303
candle-making 199
candles, scented 199, 367
Carven 9
Castillo, Alicia 140, 141
Chanel No.5 161
Charles, Prince of Wales 332, 334
Chelsea flat 146–50, 210
chemotherapy 266–7, 274–5, 277–80, 288, 290–1, 293–4
dose-dense drug delivery 266
side effects 267, 279, 280, 288
Chess, Mary 9
Christian Dior 9, 161, 165
Christmases 25–6, 70–1, 200–2, 207, 277, 291
citrus notes 172
Clark, Jessica 400
Clinique 184
Coca-Cola 159–60
Coldplay 307
commissioned projects 204–6
consistency of product 187
Constantine Bay, Cornwall 79–80, 116–17
‘Cool Britannia’ 211
Corbin and King 388
Cossar, Dawn 24
Courtenay-Stamp, Jeremy 236, 318
Covent Garden flower market 96
Crayford market 38–9, 225
Crisis for Christmas 111
cross-dressers 99
Crystal Palace flat 125, 145
Cunningham, Jane 374, 375–6
Curtis Brown 336
d’Abo, Jennifer 327
Daphna (stylist) 256
de Blank, Justin 95–6, 98, 99, 101–2, 382, 384, 388
de Blank, Michelle 388
The Delaunay 388
Demuro, Jayne 370–1
Dennis, Ron 236
Derek (perfumer) 154, 156, 162–3, 164–5, 166, 168, 169, 172, 173, 177
Desert Island Discs 307
Dior, Christian 9, 161, 165, 398
Disa, Dr Joseph 265, 274, 276, 303, 304, 305
Dot, Aunty 5, 6, 27, 37, 83, 118, 119, 123, 164, 334
Draper’s Record 93
Drewe, Jacquie 336, 337
Dundas, Bruce 309
Dune (Christian Dior) 165
‘Dunkirk economy’ 341
dyslexia 91–3, 142, 175, 196–7
Eau Sauvage (Christian Dior) 9
Edith Terrace 106
Edna (nurse) 278–9, 290
Elias, Jennie 157
Elizabeth, Queen of Hungary 166
Elizabeth Street shop 382–90, 394–5
Fragrance Brasserie Bar 385–7, 388, 389
opening 389–90
The Candle Shot Studio 394–5
EMI Records 156
English Heritage 78, 109
entrepreneurship
character traits 345
fear, dealing with 179, 353–4
following your heart 245
High Street Dreams (TV series) 336–43
ignition 379
innovation 379
inspiration 379
instinct 379
integrity 379
negotiating strategy 213
school lessons in 344–5
success breeds success 158
thinking on your feet 225–6
Estée Lauder, sale of business to 229–42
business expansion 240, 241–2
conditions 236–7
deal signed 237
five-year strategy 241
JM retains creative control 236, 240
and Jo Loves 357–8
lock-out clause 318, 324, 348–9, 368
prolonged negotiations 230–6
pros and cons, deliberating 235–6
Ettedgui, Isy 185, 375, 376
Evening Standard column 337
Fahrenheit (Christian Dior) 165
Family Allowance Day 63, 84
Farhi, Nicole 223
Farrow, Gary 309
Festival of Creativity, Istanbul 391
Fields & Co. 84–5, 94–5
Financial Times 188
Fiori, Pamela 216, 291
First Generation 205
Fisher, Charlie 227
Ford, Jonathan 390–1
Fortune 352
Four Seasons Hotel, Manhattan 385
Fragonard 167
fragrance bloggers 366
fragrance creation 165–6
accord 165 brand 166
brief 162
‘dry down’ period 169
evaluators 166, 173
fragrance personification 170
naming the fragrance 177, 203
notes 165
perfumers see perfumers
process 168, 169, 174–5
sensory stimulation 171, 174–5, 363–4
variants, creation of 174
fragrances
buying 169
colour associations 345–6
cult following 202, 370
emotional associations 8–9
storytelling concept 226, 241, 364
transporting power of 168–9, 364
Frangipani, Wild Reseda, Tuberose 367
French Connection 204
French, Sandra 147
Fullerton, Cherie 206, 208, 210, 223
Galimard 161
Gallagher, Leigh 352
Gardenia 366
Gardner, Ava 43
Givenchy 161
Gladwell, Malcolm 200
Gordon, Bryony 369
Grasse 166, 167–9, 396–7, 398
GREAT campaign 391–4
Green, Alisa 204
Green Orange & Coriander 366
Gucci 212
Guerlain 161
Hampton Court 78
Hansen, Peter 236
Harford, Naomi 395–7
Harpo Productions 208
Harrods 325, 385
Harry’s Cosmeticology 72, 73, 160
Haupt, Vicki 212–13, 214, 223
Hayes Hill 3
Heerdt, Dr Alexandra 263, 264, 270–1, 272, 301
Heinz baked beans TV ad audition 12–14
Hepburn, Audrey 214
Hermès 161
High Street Dreams (TV series) 336–43, 345, 390
Hilfiger, Tommy 231, 399
Hindmarch, Anya 182
Holt Renfrew 236, 237
Holy Trinity Brompton 102, 110
Hom, Ken 391
Hoppen, Kelly 391
Horn, Steven 224–5, 228, 239, 240, 278, 285, 286, 289, 291, 303, 304
Horne, Mark and Elizabeth 400
housekeeping money 63–4
Hungary Water 166
Hussein, King 217
hyperemesis gravidarum 19, 245–6
I. Magnin 221
IMAGE magazine xi
International Perfume Museum, Grasse 167–8
J. Lyons teahouses 14
Jackson, Michael 208
Jamba Juice 209
jasmine 97, 168
Je Reviens (Worth) 9
Jenkins, Katherine 391
Jo Loves xii, 348–402
brand image, evolution of 351–2, 353, 356, 357, 358, 375, 376–7, 378, 379
comeback fragrance 359, 360–6, 370
experiential concepts 385–7, 388, 389, 394–5
global distribution 400
growth 379–80
impulse behind 343–4, 346–7, 350–1
labelling 395–6
launch collection 366–7
naming 356–7
official launch of 368–9
rebranding 377, 379, 387, 389, 390–1, 395–6
reception of 369–70
Selfridges pop-up 371, 373–8
see also Elizabeth Street shop
Jo Malone London 146–245, 268, 313–20
Bergdorf Goodman relationship 212–20, 230, 235
brand imagery 184, 185, 189
business takes off 150–2, 155–6, 158, 200, 202, 203
celebrity clients 151–2, 161
commissioned projects 204–6
first bath oil and lotions 154–7
first fragrance 160–3, 164–6, 168–9, 172–3, 177
first premises 146–50
impromptu street trading 225–7
JM leaves 317–20
labelling 155
laboratories 186
mail-order business 206, 210
makes first million 207–8
moves into retail 178–80
offers for the business 192–4
see also Estée Lauder, sale of business to
PR 188, 190
product failures 200
recipes committed to paper 186–7
shop-in-shop units 212–20, 230, 235, 236, 241
shops see Sloane Street shop; Walton Street shop
team celebrations 222–3
treatment schedules 150–1
Jodie (dog) 117
John, Elton 308–9
Johnson, Shaune 332
Jonal and Co. 215–16
Joseph 182, 185
Joy ( Jean Patou) 9, 26
Judaism 93
Karan, Donna 212
Karen (nurse) 279, 281
Kennedy, Ruth 201–3, 294, 309, 310, 381–2
Kennington Church 110
King, Jeremy 388–9
Kirkham, Alison 338, 339
Kors, Michael 212
labelling 155, 395–6
Lacey, Amanda 189, 192, 195, 197, 206
Lambertson, Richard 212
Lancôme 161
Larkin, John 236, 319
Lauder, Evelyn 235, 261–2, 268, 291, 307
see also Estée Lauder, sale of business to
Lauder, Leonard 233–4, 235, 237, 239, 240, 241, 268, 317, 319
see also Estée Lauder, sale of business to
Lautier Florasynth 154, 163, 164–6, 169, 173–4
Leigh, Vivien 43
Lemongrass, Amber, Tiare Flower 367
Leslau, Nick 338
Levy, Alan 309
Levy, Caroline 309
Lew, Solomon 399
Lime Basil & Mandarin 169, 171, 172–3, 177, 374
Linley, David, Viscount 201–2
Lister Hospital, Chelsea 258, 259–60
London Fashion Week 211
Love Story (film) 267
Lubatti, Madame D. H. 43, 44–54, 66–8, 75, 238
Ma Griffe (Carven) 9
McCarthy, Charlotte 255, 303, 307, 337, 343, 351, 353, 354, 357, 368, 369–70, 373, 376, 392–3, 396, 399, 400
McCarthy, Fiona 308
McCartney, Stella 391
McCone, Susan 215, 278
Macdonald, Julien 211
McDonald’s 204–5
MacGraw, Ali 267
McQueen, Alexander 211
Macy’s 221
magalogues 256–7
Magic Circle 24, 31
mail-order business 206, 210
Malone, Andy (father) 3–5, 7–8, 19, 21, 22, 26–41, 59, 225–6, 401
artistic talents 34–5, 37–8, 39–41, 71, 360–1, 381
childhood 6–7
conservation architect 77–8, 79, 109
death of 380–1
draftsman 3, 16, 29
earlier life, secret of 27
and Eileen’s nervous breakdown 81, 82, 83
and Eileen’s stroke 118–19
and the family estrangement 137–9
financial pressures 14–15, 16, 34, 55, 63–4, 72
gambling 5, 7, 12, 16, 33–4, 55, 64 helps in Eileen’s beauty business 72–4, 75
and JM’s cancer 291
and JM’s wedding 123–4
magician’s skills 24–5, 30–2, 33, 36–7, 44
marriage break-up 109
marries Eileen 26–7
storytelling 7
stylishness 6, 9, 15–16, 79
troubled marital relationship 33–4, 55–6, 60–1, 64, 65, 69–71, 78–9, 80–1
Malone, Eileen (mother) 3–6, 7–8, 15–17, 19–21, 25–7, 28, 33–4, 63, 104–5, 372, 401
beauty therapist for Madame Lubatti 43–4, 45, 46–8, 52–3, 54, 57–8, 62
&n
bsp; builds own beauty business 68–9, 71–2, 74, 75, 76, 79, 103–4, 109
Catholic faith 105
continues in business without JM 139, 164
death of 380–1
estrangement from JM 127–31, 137–9, 144, 152–3, 238
financial pressures 14–15, 16, 34, 55, 63–4, 72, 119
and Gary Willcox 112–13
inherits Madama Lubatti’s skincare ledger 68
and JM’s Heinz baked beans TV ad audition 12–14
makes JM a partner in her business 114–16, 119–20, 125–6, 127–31
manicurist 31, 42
marriage break-up 109–10
marries Andy 26–7
nervous breakdown and recovery 81–6, 88–9
protectiveness 19, 22–4
stroke and recovery 117–20, 121–2, 127
style and glamour 5–6, 9–10, 15–16, 31, 44
troubled marital relationship 33–4, 55–6, 60–1, 64, 65, 69–71, 78–9, 80–1
Malone, Jo
acute sense of smell 3, 8, 9–11, 50–1, 74, 87, 148, 165, 174–5, 259, 313, 316, 324, 330–1, 346, 354–6
ambassador for GREAT campaign 391–4
attends Sarah Ferguson’s wedding 126–7
birth and early life 3–105
adult responsibilities 62–3, 71–2, 79, 83–6
dog sitter 99–100
education 57, 86–8, 90–1
entrepreneurial instincts 76, 93, 94, 102
first makes a face mask 52–3
florist’s assistant 96–8, 104–5
friendship with Madame Lubatti 44–54, 66–7
grocery store assistant 98–9, 101–2
Heinz baked beans TV ad audition 12–14
involvement in mother’s beauty business 72–6, 79, 84–6, 88–9
magician’s assistant 36–7, 44
market trader 38–41
netballer 57
and parental friction 56, 60–1, 65, 69–70
resolves to strive for a better life 65–6, 100–1, 104, 107–8
sibling relationship 18–22, 59–60, 62, 119
t-shirt business 93, 94