The History of Underclothes
Page 23
(Extract from Livrustkammaren, Vol. IV: 8-9. Stockholm.)
INDEX
Artificial Calves, 80, (81)
Artificial Silk, 18, 241
Balloon Fabric, 241
Bands, Falling, 37, 58
Standing, 37
Band Strings, 37
Belt, 245
Charnaux Corset, (247)
Suspender, 245
Bicycling, Costume for, 195
Bloomer, Mr., 14
Boudoir Cap, (228)
Bra, 242
Braces, 105–6, 143–4, 161, (162), 191–2
Berlin Woolwork, 161
Comprino, 143
Braie Girdle, 27, 30
‘Braier,’ see Braie Girdle
Braies, (24), 25–31, (26), (27), (28), (30)
brassière, 215, 229, 242, (243), 244
Caslis, (247)
Two-way Stretch, (248)
Brayette, 30
Breast Taboo, 70
Breeches, 13, 23, 25, 26, 27, 105
Buckskin, 103, 105
Broderie Anglaise, 112
Buckles, 99
Bum-roll, 51, (51), 52
Burial in Wool, 55
Certificate of, (55)
Bust Bodice, 198, 215
Bust Improvers, 136, 147, (198), 215
Bustle, 13, 33, 51, 64–5, 91–2, (92), 111, 133–4. (133), (134),149–51(150), 176–9, 197
Buttons, 19
Calico (flat), 19
Dorset Thread, 75, 83, 107, 137
High-top, 19, 83, 85
Mother-of-pcarl, 19, 126
Shirt, 138
Three-fold Linen, 136
Calf-pads. See Artificial Calves
Cami-bockers, 251
Cami-comb, 251
Cami-knickers, 220, (243), 250–1, (251), (252)
Cami-skirt, 209
Camisole, 94, 137, (146), 147, 163, 180, 198–9, 215, (232), 242, (249)
Chemise, 13, 15, 31, 45–8, (45), (46), 62, (62), (63), (76), 82–3, (82), III, 128, (129), 144, (146), 163, 174, (175), 195, 209, 224, (225), (232), 242
Empire, 195
Sleeveless, 175
Chemisette, 46
Chest Protectors, 192
Chitterlings, 75, 126
Chitterlons. See Chitterlings
Cleanliness, 15
Collar, Shirt, 99, 101, 102, 125, (139), 157–9,160,172,173,187,201, 204, 205, 219, 221, 222, 237–9
Butterfly, 187, 189
Detachable, 188
Double, 204, 239
Linen-faced Paper, 172
Patent Elliptic, 140, (142)
Washable Rubber, 200
Collar-points, 102
Coloured Undergarments, 153
Combinations, Men, 208, 222, (223), 239
Women, 171, 176, 194, 195, 209, 224, 227, (232), 242, (249)
Jaeger Sanitary, (193)
Corselette, 250
Corset Covers, 215
Corsets. See also Stays
Men, 43 (106), 127–8, 192
Bath, 107
Cumberland, 106, 107
Women, 15, 16, 21, 33, 35, 48, 62–4, (82), (86), (87), 87–8, 115, (116), (117), 130–2, 148–9, (149), 163, 179–80,(180), 197–8, (210), 211–12, (213), (226), 227, (228), (244), 244–5
Amazone, 149
Bathing, (245)
Belt, (211)
Demi-, 132
Divorce, 117
Jaeger, (197)
Patent Caoutchouc Instantaneous
Closing, 132
Straight-fronted, 201, 211
Swan-bili, 180
Thomson’s Glove Fitting, 179
Two-way Stretch, (248)
Coutts, Thomas, 105, 107
Cravat, 58, 59, 60, 73, 77, 101, 102, 123, 125, 138, (139), 140, 157, 159
Crinolette, 177
Crinoline, 70, 71, 122, 136, 145, 151, 154–7. 163–6,(164–6), 177–9,(178) Cuff, Shirt, 59, 99, 101, 102, 126, 140, 172, 204, 206
Detachable, 188
Cuff-links, 19, 102, 126, 127, 138
Gold, 140, 159
Holes for, 19, 126
Cummerbund, 188
Dickey, 103, (104), 126, 143, 172, 188, 222
Drawers. See also ‘Linings’
Men, 13, 16, 25–31, 41, (44), 54, (57), 78, 102, 105, 127, (141), 143, 161, 174. 191, (203). 206–7, (208), 222, 240
Flannel, (104), 105
Footed, Long, (104), 105
Knicker-, 240
Women, 52, 65, 68, 110, 112–14, 130, 148, (167), 168, 176, 196, 214–15, (225), (232), (243)
Knitted Silk, (113)
Ladies’ Hunting and Opera, 114
Red Flannel, (175)
Dress Improvers, 149
Dress-shirt Protector, 206
‘Ears,’ 101
Erotic Use of Underclothes, 15–17
Eyelet Holes, 115, 132
False Bosoms, 108
False Hips, 67, 71
Farthingale, 34, 50–2, 68, 70
Fashion Magazine, 96
Fastening, Methods of, 18, 19, 20
Fremantle, Captain, 102
‘Frillies,’ 212, (249)
‘Frisk,’ 118
‘Gallows,’ 106, 144
Garters, 69, 70, 71, 224
Gibson Girl , The, 212
Grundy, Mrs., 120, 185
Gusset, 102, 103
Habit-shirts, 83–7, (84), 131
Hoop, 13, 18, 68, 69, 71, 72, 108
India-rubber, 132
‘Inexpressibles,’ 121
Jabot, 58, 73, 75, 105, 126
Jaeger, Dr., 185
Jenks, Amelia, 15
Jumps, 88, III
Kempe, William, 49
Keys, 27
Knickerbockers, 196
Knickers, 215, 229–31, (231), 245–6, (249)
Chemi-, 229
Directoire, 215
French, 229
Skirt-, 209, 215, 231, 253
‘Knut,’ The, 221
Lastex, 240
Laundry, 47
Lice, 55
Lingerie, 201, 202, 208–9, 221, (228)
‘Linings,’ 78. See also Drawers
Link Holes, 85. See also Cuff-links
Macaroni, 15, 80, 98
Machine Stitching, 105
Sewing, 137, 153
Materials, 18
Medieval Attitude to Underclothes, 22
Moravian Work, 112
Neckcloth, 99, 102, 159
Neckerchief, 99
Necktie, 159, 160, 172, 187–8, 204, 205, 222, 237, 238
Neckties, List of, 193
‘Nelson,’ 118
‘Nether Integuments,’ 121
Night-cap, 43, 52, 61, 80, 94, 128, (133), 144. 151. (168). 168, 174, 181
Nightclothes. See also Night wear
Men, 23, 41–3, 61, (61), 72, 80, 107, (119), 128, 144, 162, 174, (191), 192
Women, 52, 66–7, (66), 94, (95), 119, (119), 134, 151, 217, 233, 253–6. See also Nightdress
Night Coifs, 52, 66
Nightdress, 13, 16, (129), 168, 181, 199, 217, (225), (249). See also Nightclothes
Nightgown, 48, 199
Night Wear, 224. See also Nightclothes
Nylon, 258
Oldfield, Mrs., 55
Orion, 258
Pantaleone, Saint, 13
Pantalettes, 114, 130, (131)
Pantaloons, 13, 108, 110, 114, 123, 130
Pantie-belt, 250
Pantie-briefs, 245, 250
Panties, 13, 245. See also Knickers
Pants, 13, 41, 206–7, 222
Penance, 22
Pepys, Mrs., 65
Perfumed Undergarments, 47, 54
Petticoat, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 34, 49–50, 64, 70, 71, 72, (82), 83, 111–12, 121, 128–30,145–7, 166–8, (167), 176–7, 196–7, 212–14, 227, 229, (232), 246–50, (249)
-Bodice. See Camisole
Crinoline, (146)
Elastic, 112
Hooped, 8
8–91, (89), 90, (90)
Horsehair, 145, 147
Invisible, 112
Knicker-, 253
Princess, (129), 145, (216), 227, 249
Under-, 49, 64, (178). See also Underskirt
Woven Woollen, 166
Pilgrims, 26
Pin, 136
Pockets, 67, 83, 118, 168
Points, 30, 48, 49, 50
Prices, for 1485–1625, 43
Prudery, 11, 12, 15, 97, 108, 120, 122, 151, 153, 170, 185
Purchases in Paris, 167c, 60
Purse, 27
Pyjamas, Men, 192, (207), 208, (240), 241
Women, 199, 217, (232), 233, 253, (254), 255, 256
Ruff, 37, 39
Cartwheel, 37
Ruffles, 37, 58, 75, 99, 101
Rump Furbelows, 64, (footnote)
‘Scanties,’ 250
Sheet of Repentance, 56
Shift, 47. See also Smock
Shirt, 13, 17, 23–5, 26, 31, 34. 36–41, (36), (37). (40), (42). 56–9, (57). (58), (59). (63), 73–8, (74). (76), (77), (79). 99–105. (100), 123–7, (124), 138–42, (139), (141), (142), 157–61, (158), (160), 171–3, 187–91, (187), (189), (190), (203), 204–6, 221–2, 237–9, (239)
‘Aquatic,’ 125
Cloth, 25
Hair, 22
Half-, 59–60, 65
Leeds, (100), 103
Rodger’s Improved, 142
Ruffled, 75, 101, 102
Silk, 39
Soft, 219
Sports, 188, 239
Tennis, (205)
Wedding, (100), 103
Shorts, 240, (240)
Singlet, 235, 240, (240)
Siren Suit, 256
Sleeping Suit, Jaeger Complete, (192)
Slip. See Petticoat
Smallclothes, 105
Smock, 22, 31, (32), 45, 50, 66. See also Shift
Married in, 47
Races, 65
Spcncer, (233), 233, 250
Stays. See also Corsets
Men, 72, 82
Women, 13, (32), 33, 69, 72, 92
Long Elastic Cotton, 115
Night, 132
Pregnant, 118
Vulcanian, 88
Steinkirk, 58, 73, 77, (79)
Stock, 73, 102, 123, 159
Stockings, 12, 13, 15, 61, 112, 114, 121, 153, 248
Strossers, 41
Studs, 138, 140, 171, 173
Tethered, 138
Supportasse, 37
Suspenders, 180
Sock, 192
Tie Clips, 192
Tight-lacing, 33, 64, 130, 137, 138, 163, 179, 197
‘Tommy,’ 103
Trousers, 13, 41. See also Drawers
Peg-top, 153
Trouser-Skirts, 253
Trousseau, 16, 33, 183, 217–18
Trunks, Men, 240
Women, 245
Pantie-, 246, 250
Underbodice, (175)
Under-Propper, 37, 39
Undershirt. See Vest
Underskirt, (93), (178), (210), (230).
See also Under-petticoat
‘Undies,’ 201, 221
Vest, Men, 41, 48, 174, 191, (191), (208), 222
Under-, 143, 161, 206, (223)
Women, 137, 147, 168, 180–1, 198, 233, 242
Chemi-, 242
Under-, 242
Waistcoat, Men , 13, 17, 34, 41, 64, 72, 101, 123, 138, 140, 172
Under, 107, 143
Women, 48, 65
Washing Bill, 47
‘Whisk,’ 37, 39
‘Winker,’ 102
Working Man’s Underclothes, 194