by Pamela Cox
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Whitaker, Wilfred, Victorian and Edwardian Shopworkers, Newton Abbot: David and Charles, 1973
Wilkinson, Amanda, ‘Women and Occupations in the Census of England and Wales: 1851–1901’, unpub. Ph.D thesis, University of Essex, 2012
Winstanley, Michael, The Shopkeeper’s World, 1830–1914, Manchester: Manchester University Press, 1983
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Woodward, Joan, The Saleswoman: A Study in Attitudes and Behaviour in Retail Distribution, London: Isaac Pitman & Sons, 1960
Worley, Tom, Witney in Old Photographs, Gloucester: Alan Sutton, 1987
Worth, Rachel, Fashion for the People: A History of Clothing at Marks & Spencer, Oxford: Berg, 2007
Zweiniger-Bargielowska, Ina, Austerity in Britain: Rationing, Controls and Consumption, 1939–1955, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2000
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INDEX
The page references in this index correspond to the printed edition from which this ebook was created. To find a specific word or phrase from the index, please use the search feature of your ebook reader.
Abbot, Dr. William 47–8, 49
Ablett, William: Reminiscences of an Old Draper 9–10, 34, 74
Acton, William 55
Adult Suffrage Society 121, 124
advertising 119, 122, 128, 130, 142, 143, 145, 171, 181
advertisements 1, 3–4, 23, 28, 53, 77, 78
Acts of Parliament 11, 43, 46, 49, 50, 56–7, 98, 112, 121, 124, 155–6, 172, 218–19 see also individual act name
air raids 180–81, 188–9
Alexander, Sally 219–20, 222
Alice, Princess 79
Allder’s, Croydon 22, 26
Allen, Ellen 7
Allen, Alice (Daisy), 64
Amalgamated Union of Co-op Employees (AUCE) 112, 115, 152
Amazon 237, 238
American influence 15, 69, 80, 127, 129–33, 134, 138–9, 141, 144, 167, 173, 176, 189, 195, 204, 206, 209
Angry Brigade 223, 224, 225–7, 237
Apple 237, 238
Applin, Arthur: Shop Girls 84–5
apprentices 3, 7, 16, 17, 24–5, 33, 35, 37, 43, 47, 49–50, 93, 128, 150, 204
Archer, William 89
Are You Being Served? xiv
Army & Navy Store Co-operative Society (‘The Stores’) 106, 144, 156, 157, 158, 159
Arndale centres 229–30
Arndale Group 229
Arnold Constable & Co 129
art colleges 207, 212–13
Art Nouveau 66, 70, 207
Arts and Crafts movement 70
Ashby, Vera May 169
Asian family stores 228
Asquith, Herbert 114, 122, 123
Austin, Katherine 190. 238
Austins, Derry 22
Ayton, Sylvia 209, 227
Baader-Meinhof 224
baby boom, post-war 214
Bacon, Sir Francis 85
Bacon’s, Liverpool 78
Bainbridge, Emerson Muschamp 25
Bainbridge’s, Newcastle 25, 36, 110, 142, 172
Baird, Logie 171
Baker, Eliza 146
Bardot, Brigitte 207
Barker, John 226
Barkers, Kensington 122, 207, 228
Barley, Caroline 7
Barrett, Syd 211
Bathurst, Georgina 3
Batterman, John 7, 24
Battle of Britain, 1940 188–9
Battle of the Atlantic, 1939–45 186
Batty, William 226
Baxter, Ann Elizabeth 7
Bayswater Chronicle 22
Bazaar, King’s Road, Chelsea 203–5, 210, 213, 223
‘Beat’ style 204
Beatles, The 210
Bellars, Lucy 7
Bender, Lee 227
Benjamin, Walter 69
Bennett, Arnold 171; Hugo 171
Bennetts, Derby 22
Bentalls, Kingston 171
Bergdorf Goodman 129
Besant, Annie 98–9
Best, George 211
Betjeman, John 168
Biba 206–9, 214, 223, 225–7
‘Biba Twins’ 209
Bichan, Robert 147, 163
‘Big Shop Controversy’ 133–7
Birdcage, The, Nottingham 211
Birtwell, Celia 205, 217
Black Friday confrontation 123–4
black market 192–3
Black, Clementina 94–5, 98, 113–14
Blitz 188–9
Board of Trade 114, 127, 181, 192
Bon Marché, Paris xiii, 69–70
Bondfield, Anne 94
Bondfield, Margaret 33–4, 40, 42, 50, 51, 93–7, 99–101, 102, 103, 106, 109, 121, 124–5, 167, 168, 174, 221, 232, 235
Bondfield, William 94
Bookbinder, Tony 211
Boots 180, 230
Boucherett, Jessie 12–13, 15, 24, 29, 43–4
Bouchier, (Dorothy) Chili 148–9, 164–5, 258
Boucicaut, Aristide and Marguerite 69–70
boutiques 203–14, 224–7, 231, 232
Bovril 134
Boyd, Jenny 210
Boyd, Patti 210
Bradshaw’s Descriptive Guide to Manchester and Surrounding Districts 16, 17
Brahan Castle, Scottish Highlands 8–9
Brent Cross shopping centre, London 229–31, 232, 233
Bristol 52, 100–101, 120
British Empire 10, 155
British Home Stores 169, 170, 180–81
British Land 227
Brittain, Walter 142
Britton, Rita 211–12
Brooks, Elkie 211
Brown family 26
Brown, Charles 26
Brown, Horatio 85
Brown, William 26
Browning, Robert 9, 94, 95
Browns, Chester 26, 137
Bruce, Esther 228
Bruce, Joseph 229
Bryant & May, London 98–9
Bultitude, Millicent 205
Burberry’s 119, 122
Burbridge, Richard 75
Burlington Arcade, London 52, 53, 54
Burnett, Captain 190
Burnett, Sarah 209
Bus Stop 227
Butler, Josephine 57
buyers 34, 35, 36, 78, 96, 130, 140, 149, 159, 162, 163, 176, 177, 212–13
Byrne, Kiki 205
Bystander 80
Cadbury’s 134
Cambridge University 107, 146, 162
Cambridge Women’s Suffrage Association, The 120
Campbell, Janet 211, 217
Campbell, Reverend Reginald 81
Canham, Hilda 159
Cape, Faithful 35
Carr, Robert 224
Carr’s 134
Cass, Elizabeth 57–8, 59
Cassell’s Magazine 42, 76
Castle, Barbara 218
Catesby, W.E. 142
catwalk parades 79–80, 210–11
CBS 209
census 54; 1841 54–5; 1851 7, 10–12, 23; 1861 3; 1891 39
‘Chain Gang, the’ 180–1
chain stores/multiples 15, 133–4, 167, 169–72, 176, 213 see also individu
al store name
Chamberlain, Joseph 9
Chamberlain, Neville 182
Channel Islands 183–4, 194–5, 199
Chelsea Girl 213–14
Chelsea girls and counter-cultures 203–32
‘Chelsea look, the’ 204, 213, 214
Chester 26, 137
Chesterton, G. K. 133, 134, 135–7, 226
Cheval, Timothe 54
Chicago 69, 111
Chippindale, Sam 229
Churchill, Winston 114–15, 182
Clamp, Doris 198
Clark, Elizabeth Huber 132, 137–8
Clark, Ossie 205, 210, 212
Clarke, Ethel 198
Cleave, Maureen 203
Clifford, Dr John 108
Close, Eliza 2–3, 24, 25, 27, 28, 69
co-operative stores 67, 106–7, 110, 112, 115, 133–4, 150, 152, 156, 169–70, 195 see also under individual store name
co-operative movement 5, 15, 67, 103–8, 110, 112, 115–16, 118, 133–4, 144, 150, 152, 156, 169–70, 195, 232
Co-operative Wholesale Society 103, 107
Committee for Imperial Defence 180
Conran, Terence 212
conscription 187, 188, 193, 195
Conservative Party 112, 230
consumer society 56, 66–70, 72, 74, 75, 125, 214, 223–7
Contagious Diseases Act, 1864 57
Contrary, Manchester 211
Copeman’s grocery, Norwich 6
Corner, Lindsay 211
Coronation Street 211
Corus, Miss 51–2
Costard, Betty Yvonne 183, 194
Costigan & Co, Glasgow 156
counter-culture 214–15, 219, 226, 231
couture 70, 77–9, 203, 204, 208, 210–11
Cox, Lizzie 49–50
credit 6, 65, 103, 130
Creek, Hilary 227
Cripps, Liverpool 78, 79
Cross & Blackwell 134
customers: addressing 28; American attitude towards 130, 131, 132, 137, 138; boutiques and see boutiques; browsing/obligation to buy and 132, 138, 170, 207; class and see individual class name; co-op movement and see co-op movement; credit and 6, 65, 103, 130; East End and West End contrasted 96; female assistants preferred by 28–9; find shopping experience unpleasant 8–10; importance of female 65; leading 232; personal relationship of shopkeeper and female 67; seats for 45, 66; self-service 195; shopkeepers take personal interest in 6; stores and see under individual store name 13; war and see First World War and Second World War
Dagenham strike, Ford, 1968 218–19, 221
Daily Chronicle 95, 97
Daily Express 136–7
Daily Mail 82, 118, 159, 169
Daily Mail Home Exhibition 169
Daily Mirror 82, 164, 207
Daily News 113, 135
Dakotas, The 211
Dam, H. J. 89
Daniels and Co., Kentish Town 108–9
Dare, Grace 93, 95–7
Darwin, Charles 48, 49
Davies, John 224
Davies, Margaret Llewelyn 106, 107, 115
Dawson, Diana (Melly) 204, 210
De Gruchy, St Helier 183–4, 194, 199–200
De Jong’s, Liverpool 78
Debenhams 22, 109, 142, 213, 228
Debord, Guy: The Society of Spectacle 224
‘Deeds not Words’ campaign 118, 121
Denza, Vanessa 212–13
Department of Employment 217
department stores 15–16, 17, 19, 22, 23, 25, 26, 35–6, 38, 40–41, 45, 64, 65, 66, 69–70, 72, 75, 76, 77, 81, 85, 87, 111, 112, 115, 129, 131, 134, 136, 138, 142, 152, 164, 171, 172, 174, 176, 183, 186, 189, 192, 203, 205, 207, 208, 212, 215, 217, 226, 227, 228, 229 see also individual store name
Derry & Toms, Kensington 109, 119, 165, 207, 227
Dickins & Jones 144
Dickens, Charles 68, 85
documentary films 118, 181, 184–5, 186–7, 189, 209
Dorothy Perkins 227
Dorval, Thomas 54
Draffen & Jarvie, Dundee 144
drapers 3, 5, 7, 9–10, 16, 17, 18, 20, 22, 25, 29, 33–4, 35, 39, 40, 45, 46, 47, 50, 69, 74, 77–8, 79, 81, 84, 93, 95–6, 102, 108, 109, 110, 116, 117, 127–8, 129–30, 132, 135, 142, 143, 144, 145, 162, 171, 175, 176, 182, 188, 196
Drapers Record, The 40–41, 69, 81, 129, 132, 143, 144
Drapers’ Chamber of Trade 81
Dublin 123–4
Duchess of Westminster 79
Dunkirk 182, 188
early closing 42–4, 47–8, 102
Early Closing Association 42–3, 47
East End, London 42, 59, 96, 98
Eaden Lilley 144
Edinburgh 11, 22, 26, 56, 59, 65–6, 69, 137
Edinburgh Review: ‘Female Industry’ article 11, 12
Edis, Dr Arthur 45, 46, 47, 49
education 3, 11, 13, 29, 76, 85, 114, 136–7, 162, 221
Edwardia, Manchester 211
Elt, Nellie 138
English Women’s Journal, The 13
equal pay 218–19, 221
Equal Pay Act, 1970 219
ethnicity 228–9
eugenics 49
Evans, D. H. 122
Evans, David 117
Evans, Gladys 123–4, 238
Evening Post 199–200
Evening Standard 208
F. Cape & Co., Oxford 35, 39, 49–50, 110
Factory Acts 43
factory work 3, 10, 22, 27, 43, 44, 49, 67, 82, 105, 119–20, 130, 151, 162, 174, 186, 188, 192, 197, 198, 210, 213
fashion 29, 73, 78, 80, 203–5, 210, 213, 225
fashion models 78–81, 165, 204–5, 208, 209, 210–11, 215, 217
fashion shows 79–80, 210–11
fast fashion 213
Fawcett, Millicent Garrett 118
Featherstone, Yorkshire 193
Fenwick 230
Fenwick, J.J. 25
fiction 11, 84–5, 86, 89, 204
Field, Marshall 69
Filene 131
fines 24, 35, 37, 38, 41, 45, 46, 50, 58, 93, 97, 99, 108, 139, 196
The First of May Group 224
First World War, 1914–18 124, 143, 149–52, 155, 168, 180, 187, 194
Fisher, Olive 140
Fitz-Simon, Stephen 207, 224–5, 226
Foale, Marion 212
food prices/riots 106, 149
Ford 218, 221, 226
Forget-Me-Not 82–3
Foster, Eliza 7
Foster, Nelson 5–6, 7, 10, 16, 24, 34
Fowle, Ida Annie 29–30, 36
France 7, 8, 11, 53–4, 66, 69–70, 72, 78, 151, 176, 182, 197, 209, 213, 223–4
Franco, General 224
Franks, Jesse 80
Fraser Sons & Co 22
French Connection 227
Friedan, Betty 222
Fulham Road Clothes Shop 209
Gamages, Holborn 228
gay men 206
General Strike, 1926 168
George VI, King 199
Get Dressed 205
Gilmour, David 211
Girl from Kay’s, The 64, 65
Girl’s Own Paper 45
Girls’ Friend 83
Gladstone, William 47
Glasgow 1–2, 4, 52, 68, 87, 102, 156, 175, 191, 206
Glasgow Herald 1–2
Glasgow High School for Girls 102
glovers 55
Gordon, Sir Cosmo Duff 80
Gorringes, Victoria 228
grands magasins 70
Grantham 230, 231
Graphic, The 72
Great Exhibition, 1851 17, 23
Great Shop Strike, 1919 157–60
Green, Bill 206
Green, Philip 234
Greene, Alexander Plunket 203
Greenfield, James 227
Greer, Germaine 222
Grierson, Ruby 184
Griffiths, Winifred 150
Grimsey, Bill 233
grocers 5–6, 7, 16, 18, 22, 34, 90, 9
9, 100, 116, 133–5, 150, 151, 176, 177, 185, 186, 196, 230, 231
Grose Brothers 109
Guernica, bombing of, 1937 179–80
Guest, William 185
Hagenbach, Arnold 229
Hamilton, Cicely 109; Diana of Dobson’s 109–10
Hardie, Keir 117
Hardy, Thomas 9
Harmsworth, Alfred (Lord Northcliffe) 82, 157–8
Harris, Lilian 106–7, 115
Harrison, George 210
Harrod, Charles Digby 29, 36
Harrod, Henry Charles 22
Harrodian Gazette 111
Harrods, Knightsbridge xiii, 22, 23, 29–30, 35–7, 70, 111, 122, 137, 143, 148, 150, 159, 164–5, 171, 173, 192, 207, 209, 212
Hartley’s 134
Harvey Nichols, Knightsbridge 67, 212
Harvey, Arthur 183–4, 194–5, 199–200
Harvey, Kay 194–5, 199
Harvey, Mary Ann 75
Headey, Albert 134–5, 151
Hem and Fringe, London 210
Hepburn, Audrey 208
Hicks, Margaretta 149
Hitler, Adolf 194, 197
Hoffman, Philip 39–40, 108, 109, 116, 117, 145, 152, 157–8, 159–60
Holborn Silk Market, London 39–40
Holyoake, George 104; Self-Help by the People 105
Home & Colonial 169
Home Office 144
Honey 215
House of Commons 123, 182
House of Eliott, The, xiii, xiv
House of Fraser 22, 228
House of Lords 112
House of Worth 78
housewives 155, 168–9, 184–5, 186, 187, 189
Hove, Sussex 333
Howell, James 25, 41
Howells department store, Cardiff 25, 40–41
Hulanicki, Barbara 206–8, 217, 225, 227
Hunter, Beatrice 162, 163–4
Huntley & Palmers 134
Hynde, Chrissie 227
Ideal Labour Saving Home, The 169
Industrial Relations Bill, 1971 224
Industrial Relations Journal 217
Industrial Revolution 10, 14, 133
Isherwood, Christopher: Goodbye to Berlin 174
Isle of Wight 182, 187–8
J. Lyons & Co 176, 181
J. Sainsbury 143, 149–50, 176, 185–6, 187, 193, 197
Jack the Ripper 59
Jagger, Mick 210
Jenner, Charles 26, 65, 66, 70, 137
Jenners of Edinburgh xiii, 22, 26, 65–6, 70, 137, 209
Jersey 183, 194, 199
Jeune, Lady 8–9, 28–9
Jobs, Steve 237–8
John Lewis 140, 144–7, 156, 158–60, 162, 180, 186, 190, 199, 230
Jones, Stevenson 78
Jong, Erica 222
Jordan (punk icon) 227
Jupp, Ethel May 176–7, 189
Kaufhaus N. Israel department store, Berlin 174
Kendal, Milne and Faulkner, Messrs, Manchester 16, 17, 36, 196, 205, 209, 211
Kenney, Annie 120
Kenney, Nell 120