daily rhythm of, 17
descriptions of, 17-18
fish sold at, 17
fruit and vegetables sold at, 17
German, 2
Grand Street, 14
Hester Street, 106
landladies shopping at, 69-70
Lower Manhattan, 14-19, 85-86
poor conditions, 14
shoppers, 17
transportation of food to, 15
vast array of food, 14-15
wild game sold, 17
matzoh, 87
matzoh brei, 111
McCabe, James, 69-70
McCarthy, Mary, 49
McClellan, Mayor George B., 144
McDonald, Alice, 61
meals:
Baldizzi family, 199-200
Sicilian peasants, 207-208
meat consumption, as measure of wealth, 177
meat riot, 178-179
meat:
and Italian immigrants, 196-197
kosher, 96
preserved, 76-77
meeting halls, German, 42-43
mehlspeisen (“flour foods”), 22
memories, food, 181
Mendelsohn, Moses, 96
menu:
Dolan’s Restaurant, 73
Ellis Island dining room, 128-130
Ellis Island kosher dining room, 137-138
Newsboys’ Lodging House, 79
school lunchrooms, 165-166
Hungarian cafés, 173
Metropolitan Board of Health, 114
Meyerberg, Mrs. (fictional character), 181
milk:
as wonder food, 130
lack of in Jewish diet, 149
Milwaukee, 9
“missing husbands,” Lower East Side, 104
“mock fish,” 109
“model flats,” 163-164
Moore children, 65-66
Moore family, xi
Moore, Bridget (Meehan), 48, 50-51, 65-66
Moore, Joseph, 48, 50-51, 52, 55, 65-66, 72, 74, 81
More, Louise B., 62-63
Moretti, Stefano, 218
Moretti’s, 218
Mulberry Street, pushcart market, 213-214
Murger, Henry, 38
National Consumer League, 202
nativism, United States, 192
New York Board of Health, 162
New York Evening Post, 25-26
New York Herald, 73
New-York Historical Society, 17
New York School Lunch Committee, 165
New York Sun, 131, 219
New York Times, 14, 23, 30, 135, 190, 220
New York Tribune, 72, 166, 168, 203
New York:
as seen by Irish immigrants, 51
bakeries, 29-30
boardinghouses, 69
candy factories, 201-204
Christmas traditions, 79-80
delicatessens, 166-171
English culture, 48
entertainment districts, 39-40
influx of Irish immigrants, 48, 51-55
Italian restaurants, 218-224
nineteenth-century cuisine, 71-72
pigs, 113-114
popularity of German restaurants, 37
restaurants, 71-76
sugar industry, 201
New Yorkers:
and Italian food, 218-224
love of oysters, 100
visits to in Little Italy, 223-224
newsboys, 73, 79
Newsboys’ Lodging House, 79
97 Orchard Street:
and Glockner family, 6
and Gumpertz family, 84-85
and Rogarshevsky family, 141-142
and Baldizzi family, 99
depopulation, 183-184
description, 5-7
dinnertime at, 118-119
neighborhood, 13-14
kitchens, xii
plumbing, 184
privies, 7
view from roof, 20-21
noodles, 12-13, 21, 89
recipe, 13
Jewish, 106-107
Northern Italians,
New York, 184-185
restaurants, 218-220
Nussbaum, Kela, 122-123
O’Donovan, Jeremiah, 67-68
oatmeal cake, 60
oatmeal, 49, 60, 63
Orchard Street:
grocery stores, 13
meat boycott, 178-179
water pipes, 7
organ-grinders, 188, 189
Ortelsburg, East Prussia, 84, 93-94, 102
Our Lady of Mount Carmel, 205-206
oysters:
patties, 74-76
Jewish recipes, 101
Jews and, 99-101
New York, xiv, 74-75, 100
oyster stand, 75
Pale of Jewish settlement, 132-133
Palermo, 197-198
pancakes, German, recipe, 39
Parloa, Maria, 71
The Passing of a Great Race (Madison Grant), 192
“Passover at Ellis Island,” 135
Passover, 135, 156
pasta, 194
pastide (meat pie), 89
“patty man,” 74-75
peasants, Irish, 50, 58-59
peasants, Italy, 194-195
peddlers:
bread, 208-209
child, 148
fruit, 147-149
Jewish, 89, 143-143
Lower East Side, 142-144
nuts, 205
snails, 214
vegetable, 145, 147, 214-215
Pentecost Sunday, 25
peppers, Italian, 216-217
Perlman’s Rumanian Rathskellar, 172
Pfaff, Charley, 37-39
Pfaff’s restaurant, 37-39
pfankuchen (German pancakes), 38-39
Philadelphia, 25
Phytophthora infestans (potato blight), 48
pickle stands, 151
pickles:
Jewish love of, 150-151
recipe, 151-152
picnics, German 44-45
pie:
as American staple, xiv, 127
mince, 131
pig jowls, 82
pigs:
Europe, 111
Ireland, 57
New York, 113-114
pizza, 200
pizzarelli (fried dough cakes), 206
plumbing, 97 Orchard Street, 7, 184
plums, 148
pogroms, 133
Posen, East Prussia, 87
potato blight, 48-49
potato kugel, 109
potato pancakes, 105-106
potato puffs, 110
potatoes:
arrival in Ireland, 56
German Jews and, 107-111
introduction to Europe, 107-108
Ireland, 48, 56-57
Irish immigrants and, 61, 62, 63
“laughing,” 60
on steamships, 49, 50
poultry, Lower East Side, 114-117
poverty:
immigrant, 50
Irish immigrant, 61
power of food, 200
Practical Homemaking (Mabel Kittredge), 163
Praktisches Kochbuch (Henriette Davidis), 9
Praktisches Kochbuch fur die Deutschen in Amerika (Henriette Davidis), 9-10
Procter & Gamble, 118
Protose steak, 179
public health, and home candy factories, 202-204
public schools, cooking classes, 163
pudding, cheap, recipe, 63
pumpernickel, 2
Purim, 156
“pushcart evil,” 144-145
pushcart markets:
book stands, 158
dry goods, 158
Hester Street, 85-86, 106
child workers, 148
complaints, 144-145
Italian, 213-215
Lower East Side, 142-145
pickles, 151
quality of food, 145
uptown visitors, 142-143
&nbs
p; war against, 214
race studies, and immigration, 192
racketeering, food, 231-232n
rag-pickers, 188-191, 191-192
Ratner’s, 179, 181
recipe:
challah, 157-158
cheap pudding, 63
Christmas baccala (salt codfish), 226
coffee cake, 30-31
cranberry strudel, 159
croccante (almond brittle), 206-207
egg noodles, 13
eggplants in the oven, 217
faux foie gras, 116
fish hash, 71
gefilte fish, 92-93
German pancakes, 39
hasenpfeffer (wild rabbit stew), 10-11
herring salad, 19-20
kranzkuchen (coffee cake), 30-31
krupnik (bean soup), 146-147
lentil soup, 122-123
oyster patties, 75-76
pickle, 151-152
sauerkraut, 26
spaghetti and meat balls, 224-225
spaghetti con aglio e olio, 211-212
spiced vinegar, 10
stewed fish, 86-87
stuffed cabbage, 140
stuffed pike, 91
veal with dried pear, 11-12
vegetarian chopped liver, 179-180
white bean soup, 122
zucchini frittata, 210-211
Reformed Judaism, 98
refrigeration, 77
Reisen, Avrom, 108-109
Report of the Council on Hygiene and Public Health of the Citizen’s Association of New York upon the Sanitary Conditions in the City (Citizens’ Association), 114
restaurants:
German, 37-42
Hungarian, 172-174
Little Italy, 220-224
Lower East Side, 170-175
New York, 71-76
Northern Italian, 218-220
private, 170-171
signs, 27
Rhineland, 88
Riis, Jacob, 34, 223
riot, meat, 178-179
Rizzolo, Concetta, 211-212
Rogarshevsky family, xi, 125
Rogarshevsky, Abraham, 125, 142
Rogarshevsky, Fannie, 125, 141, 152, 158, 212-213
Rogashevsky children, 141-142
Romanian Jewish restaurants, 171-173
Roosevelt, Franklin, 199
Roosevelt, Teddy, 29, 73, 127, 131, 173
Rorer, Sarah Tyson, 224
rum, 31-32
Rumpolt, Marx, 91
“runners” (boardinghouse workers), 66-67
Russ & Daughters, 180
Russian Jews:
arrival on Lower East Side, 123-124
love of tea, 175-176
restaurant food, 175
Sabbath dishes, 105
Sabbath, Jewish:
cultural pressures, 104, 105
fish, 85, 87
food symbolism, 119
food, 84, 105, 155-156
German, 95-96
Saengverein (German singing clubs), 44
salads:
Italian, 215
Jewish, 147
saloons, 33-34
sandwiches, 117, 127, 151
sanitary police, 114, 149
sauerkraut making, 24-26
sauerkraut man, 25-26
sauerkraut, recipe, 26
sausage factories, 169
sausages, 13, 22, 44
Scènes de la vie de Bohème (Henry Murger), 38
Schaefer, Frederick, 32-33
Schaefer, Max, 32-33
schav, 147
schmaltz, see fat
Schneider, John, 6, 9, 124
Schneider’s Saloon, 9
Schnorrer’s Verein, 42
school lunchrooms, and immigrants, 165-166
school lunchrooms, menu, 165-166
Schultz, Sadie, 139-140
Schwartz, Frieda, 140
Scotland, corned beef in, 78
Scribner’s Monthly, 17
Seattle, 100
“servant question,” 53
servants, Irish:
New York, 52-55
culinary skills of 54-55
frustrations with, 53-54
introduction to American food traditions, 54-55
Settlement Cook Book, 86
settlement houses:
cooking classes, 160-165
immigrant classes, 160
Lower East Side, 160-165
“model flats,” 163-164
sfinge (Italian fried dough), 226-227
shabbos goy (Gentile helper on Jewish Sabbath),
Josephine Baldizzi as, 212
Shanley, Charles Dawson, 27
Shavuot, 156
Shearith Israel (synagogue), 98
shellfish, Jews and, 98, 100-101
shetlach (Jewish market towns), 133, 142
shoppers, public markets, 17, 69-70
Sicilian bread, 209-210
Sicilian cafés, 222
Sicilians:
and bread, 207-212
Brooklyn, 208
family suppers, 196
importance of food to, 195
New York, 198
Sieghortner’s restaurant, 37
signs, New York City, 26-27
slave trade, 31-32
slave descendants, on Lower East Side, 2
Slavic foods, East Prussia, 103
“slumming,” on Lower East Side, 173-174
Smedley, Emma, 166
smells:
Collect pond, 5
Lower East Side, 23-24
snails, Italian, 214
social clubs, German, 42-45
costumes of, 43
social workers, tenement visits, 154
societies, Irish-American, 80
“Some Queer East Side Vocations,” 116
soup:
Jewish, 107, 145-147
lentil, recipe, 122-123
white bean, recipe, 122
chilled, 147
Southern Italians, biases against, 220-221
spaetzle, 12, 107
spaghetti con aglio e olio, recipe, 211-212
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