by Wade Davis
Wakefield, Madge, 413, 439, 444, 448
Wakely, Leonard, 130
Wales, Prince of, 156, 560
Wang Hongbao, 566, 567
Waugh, Andrew, 45–6
Weekly Dispatch, 562
Wellington (school), 187
Wells, H. G., 94, 174
Western Mall, 131
Westminster Gazette, 556
West Rongbuk Glacier, 274, 276, 278, 286–7, 288, 557, 565
Wheeler, Arthur Oliver, 265
Wheeler, Dolly, 204, 218, 220, 222, 239, 247, 285, 332, 342, 345, 362, 364
Wheeler, E. O. (Oliver), 159, 204, 229–33, 367, 369, 402–3, 411, 458, 470; approaches to Lhakpa La mapped by, 341–2, 411; assault on Everest and (1921), 344–5, 346, 347, 348–9, 351, 352–60, 361–2; athletic ability of, 229; climbing abilities of, 217, 235, 351; in climbing party, 342, 348–9, 351; education of, 229; end of 1921 expedition and, 362, 364; exceptional abilities of, 230, 334; final maps sent to Everest Committee by, 365–6; in first days of expedition, 212–18; frostbite in legs of, 358, 359–60, 361; at high camp on Nangpa La moraine, 267, 269, 280, 281, 284–6; Iraq mission of, 232–3; isolated from rest of expedition for nearly three months, 266; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet, 207–8, 212–18; journey of, from Tibet border to Tingri, 218, 220–9, 236, 239, 240, 241, 245, 247, 249; journey of, from Tingri to Kharta, 306–7; Kellas’s funeral missed by, 229, 233, 234; key to Everest discovered by, 329–34, 336, 339; Mallory’s opinion of, 206, 229, 278, 307, 348–9; new photographic survey methodology and, 264, 265–6, 330, 342, 365; survey missions of, 217, 258–9, 260, 263, 264–6, 284–6, 305, 306–7, 310, 329–34, 339, 341–2, 346, 352, 362, 365–6; in Survey of India, 229; as surveyor general, 229–30; temperament of, 230; in Tingri, 256, 258–9, 260, 263, 286, 305–6, 307; wartime experiences of, 230–2, 233, 234
White, Claude, 55, 63, 64, 68, 113, 115
Wilde, Oscar, 172, 259
Willet, Bernard, 187
Wills, Dr., 184
Wills, Sir Alfred, 371
Wilson, Claude, 469
Wilson, Hugh, 176, 186, 189
Wilson, Maurice, 107, 566
Wilson, Sir Henry, 392–3
Wilson, Steuart, 176
Wilson, Theodore, 96
Winchester (city), Mallory stationed at training camp in, 194–5
Winchester (public school), 113, 187, 467; Bullock at, 155, 168; Mallory as student at, 155, 166, 167–8, 170, 172, 204
Windy Gap. See Lhakpa La
Winter Olympics, 480
Wollaston, Alexander Frederick Richmond (Sandy), 75, 79–80, 84, 135–40, 144–5, 148, 153, 157, 159, 204, 205, 206, 233, 243, 285, 304, 310, 320–3, 328, 344, 369, 458, 560; appointed medical officer and naturalist (1921), 135; country west of Everest explored by, 320–3; deemed too old for 1924 team, 470; end of 1921 expedition and, 362, 363, 364; family background of, 136–7; in first days of expedition, 212–16; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet, 206, 207–8, 212–16; journey of, from Tibet border to Tingri, 218, 220–9, 235–6; in Kharta, 336; Longstaff’s letter to, on avalanche disaster, 451–2; lower Kama Valley explored by, 338–9; Mallory’s opinion of, 206, 234–5, 344; medical-review process and, 145, 146; organization of 1922 expedition and, 368; personality and demeanor of, 135; Raeburn evacuated to Sikkim by, 234, 236, 259–60, 310; Raeburn’s return and, 341; reports to RGS written by, 366; specimens collected by, 263, 303, 321, 322, 323, 324, 366; summit attempt and (1921), 342, 344, 348, 351, 352–5, 360, 361; Tibet and its people disdained by, 303–4; in Tingri, 259–60, 263, 286, 303–4, 310; travels and explorations of, 137–40; wartime experiences of, 135–6, 140, 304
Wood, Captain (Royal Engineers), 64
Wood-Johnson, George, 474
Woolf, Leonard, 174
Woolf, Virginia, 93, 174, 380
Workers’ Educational Association, 466
World Congress of Faiths, 62
World War I, 3–39, 79, 87–99, 122, 126, 129, 143, 156, 164, 171, 176, 183, 185–97, 211, 294, 456, 559, 564–5; assault on Everest as gesture of imperial redemption after, 95–6; Bloomsbury set’s opposition to, 186; British defense of Ypres in (see Ypres, British defense of ); British military leaders’ ineptitude in, 15–16, 105, 194; communication difficulties in, 24; economic impact of, 197–8; end of, 91, 196–201; Everest expedition delayed by, 75, 83, 84, 87, 94; Finch’s experiences in, 149–50; Gallipoli campaign in, 22, 37, 128, 132–5, 150, 188, 189, 232, 390; gestalt of death changed by, 233–4; Graham’s conscientious objector status in, 472–3; Hazard’s experiences in, 474; Hingston’s experiences in, 481; Howard-Bury’s experiences in, 101–2, 104–8, 296; and Irvine’s appeal to older climbers, 478–9; leave for enlisted men and officers in, 90; London social life transformed by, 185–6; Loos debacle in (1915), 23, 88–9, 98, 104, 189; Lost Generation and, 248; Mallory’s experiences in, 185–97, 478–9; medical units in, 12–13, 17–23, 31–4, 37; memorial to FRCC members lost in, 3–6, 38–9; Morris’s experiences in, 372, 373–5, 448; Morshead’s experiences in, 211–12; new breed of climbers and experiences of, 456–7; Newfoundland Regiment in, 14–15, 16, 22–3, 28, 33–6; newspaper reports on, 33, 89; Noel’s experiences in, 97–9, 383; Norton’s experiences in, 391–2, 478–9, 498, 506; Odell’s experiences in, 475–6, 478–9; outbreak of, 7, 9, 185; oxygen masks evocative of, 385; Passchendaele offensive in (1917), 96–7; poison gas in, 12–13, 28, 88, 99, 392; propaganda efforts in, 93–5; psychological rift created by, 87, 89–93, 95–6, 448; quality of British troops in, 24–5; Rawling’s experiences in, 87–8, 96–7; shell shock in, 13, 98, 99; Somme offensive in (see Somme offensive); Spring Offensive in (1918), 91, 106–7, 195–6; Strutt’s experiences in, 379; third anniversary of Armistice and, 368–9; Tibet’s pro-British stance in, 114; trenches from, as tourist attraction, 454; trench warfare in, 11–12, 16, 23, 27–8, 35, 104–6, 132, 134–5, 191–3, 230–1, 233, 373; Versailles Treaty and, 200, 380; veterans’ desire to go anywhere but home after, 107; veterans of, applying for Everest expedition, 128, 130, 132; weaponry in, 14, 15, 16, 28; Wheeler’s experiences in, 230–2, 233, 234; Wollaston’s experiences in, 135–6, 140, 304; work stoppages during, 89–90
World War II, 560, 565; Wheeler’s maps and, 230, 334
Wyn-Harris, Percy, 564, 565–6
Yaru Chu, 224, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 402
Yatung, 52, 123, 311, 320, 394; Bruce evacuated to, 490–2; Dalai Lama’s stays in, 119, 120; Howard-Bury’s meeting with Bell in, 112, 114–16, 118, 364; 1921 expedition’s route through, 207, 214, 216, 218, 219, 364
Yeats, W. B., 173, 183
yetis, 353, 406, 499–500
York, Duke of, 560
Young, Geoffrey, 3–9, 144, 146, 148, 153, 154–5, 159–60, 168, 179, 184, 195, 199, 200, 201, 370, 381; in ambulance unit during war, 12–13, 186; family background of, 7–8; at FRCC memorial ceremony, 3–6, 38–9; limb lost by, 3–4, 194; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 558–60; Mallory’s climbs with, 8–9, 176–8, 183–4; Mallory’s letters to, 229, 235, 238, 341, 343–4, 348, 369, 446, 453, 478, 479; as war correspondent, 9, 11–12, 186
Young, Hilton, 8, 176, 479
Young, Kathleen Scott, 479
Young, Lady Alice, 194
Young, Len Slingsby, 3, 6, 200, 379
Young, Sir George, 7–8
Younghusband, Francis, 53–64, 67–8, 71, 76, 85, 113, 228, 288, 296, 367, 393, 438–39, 451, 459, 467, 468; background of, 53–5; clothing of, 57; diplomatic mission to Kampa Dzong led by, 53, 55–6, 57, 63, 64, 74, 80, 206; Everest first seen by, 46, 63–4; financing of expeditions and, 156, 159; Finch’s confidentiality agreement and, 461; Gurkhas and, 73; Himalayan explorations conceived by, 63–4; Howard-Bury’s dispatches to, 212, 218, 233, 236, 341, 363; Howard-Bury’s mission to India and, 108, 111, 113, 122, 123, 124; Lhasa expedition of (invasion of 1904), 57–62, 67–8, 74, 75, 85, 111, 112, 114, 115, 118–19, 120, 203, 206, 207, 210, 214, 215, 225, 247; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 552, 556, 558, 560; Mallory’s l
etters to, 358–9, 446, 493; organization of 1921 expedition and, 125, 126, 132, 141, 154, 160–1, 320, 382; organization of 1922 expedition and, 368, 369, 385, 386; organization of 1924 expedition and, 455, 480, 483; as propagandist during war, 93–4; proposals for Everest expedition and, 86, 95, 100, 108–11, 113, 124, 125, 131; selection of team members and, 144, 152–3, 155, 156, 160, 201; on Sherpa character, 526; Tibet’s impact on, 61–2
Ypres, British defense of, 6–7, 10–11, 12–13, 87–8, 90, 96, 99, 104, 107, 187
Zambu, Tibet, 261
Zermatt, 7
Zinal Rothorn, 144
This ebook is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of this text may be a direct infringement of the author’s and publisher’s rights and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly.
Version 1.0
Epub ISBN 9781448113972
www.randomhouse.co.uk
Published by The Bodley Head 2011
2 4 6 8 10 9 7 5 3 1
Copyright © Wade Davis 2011
Wade Davis has asserted his right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988 to be identified as the author of this work
This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, resold, hired out, or otherwise circulated without the publisher’s prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition, including this condition, being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.
First published in Great Britain in 2011 by
The Bodley Head
Random House, 20 Vauxhall Bridge Road,
London SW1V 2SA
www.bodleyhead.co.uk
www.vintage-books.co.uk
Addresses for companies within The Random House Group Limited can be found at: www.randomhouse.co.uk/offices.htm
The Random House Group Limited Reg. No. 954009
A CIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN 9781847921840