Into The Silence

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Into The Silence Page 94

by Wade Davis


  Wakefield, Madge, 413, 439, 444, 448

  Wakely, Leonard, 130

  Wales, Prince of, 156, 560

  Wang Hongbao, 566, 567

  Waugh, Andrew, 45–6

  Weekly Dispatch, 562

  Wellington (school), 187

  Wells, H. G., 94, 174

  Western Mall, 131

  Westminster Gazette, 556

  West Rongbuk Glacier, 274, 276, 278, 286–7, 288, 557, 565

  Wheeler, Arthur Oliver, 265

  Wheeler, Dolly, 204, 218, 220, 222, 239, 247, 285, 332, 342, 345, 362, 364

  Wheeler, E. O. (Oliver), 159, 204, 229–33, 367, 369, 402–3, 411, 458, 470; approaches to Lhakpa La mapped by, 341–2, 411; assault on Everest and (1921), 344–5, 346, 347, 348–9, 351, 352–60, 361–2; athletic ability of, 229; climbing abilities of, 217, 235, 351; in climbing party, 342, 348–9, 351; education of, 229; end of 1921 expedition and, 362, 364; exceptional abilities of, 230, 334; final maps sent to Everest Committee by, 365–6; in first days of expedition, 212–18; frostbite in legs of, 358, 359–60, 361; at high camp on Nangpa La moraine, 267, 269, 280, 281, 284–6; Iraq mission of, 232–3; isolated from rest of expedition for nearly three months, 266; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet, 207–8, 212–18; journey of, from Tibet border to Tingri, 218, 220–9, 236, 239, 240, 241, 245, 247, 249; journey of, from Tingri to Kharta, 306–7; Kellas’s funeral missed by, 229, 233, 234; key to Everest discovered by, 329–34, 336, 339; Mallory’s opinion of, 206, 229, 278, 307, 348–9; new photographic survey methodology and, 264, 265–6, 330, 342, 365; survey missions of, 217, 258–9, 260, 263, 264–6, 284–6, 305, 306–7, 310, 329–34, 339, 341–2, 346, 352, 362, 365–6; in Survey of India, 229; as surveyor general, 229–30; temperament of, 230; in Tingri, 256, 258–9, 260, 263, 286, 305–6, 307; wartime experiences of, 230–2, 233, 234

  White, Claude, 55, 63, 64, 68, 113, 115

  Wilde, Oscar, 172, 259

  Willet, Bernard, 187

  Wills, Dr., 184

  Wills, Sir Alfred, 371

  Wilson, Claude, 469

  Wilson, Hugh, 176, 186, 189

  Wilson, Maurice, 107, 566

  Wilson, Sir Henry, 392–3

  Wilson, Steuart, 176

  Wilson, Theodore, 96

  Winchester (city), Mallory stationed at training camp in, 194–5

  Winchester (public school), 113, 187, 467; Bullock at, 155, 168; Mallory as student at, 155, 166, 167–8, 170, 172, 204

  Windy Gap. See Lhakpa La

  Winter Olympics, 480

  Wollaston, Alexander Frederick Richmond (Sandy), 75, 79–80, 84, 135–40, 144–5, 148, 153, 157, 159, 204, 205, 206, 233, 243, 285, 304, 310, 320–3, 328, 344, 369, 458, 560; appointed medical officer and naturalist (1921), 135; country west of Everest explored by, 320–3; deemed too old for 1924 team, 470; end of 1921 expedition and, 362, 363, 364; family background of, 136–7; in first days of expedition, 212–16; journey of, from Darjeeling into Tibet, 206, 207–8, 212–16; journey of, from Tibet border to Tingri, 218, 220–9, 235–6; in Kharta, 336; Longstaff’s letter to, on avalanche disaster, 451–2; lower Kama Valley explored by, 338–9; Mallory’s opinion of, 206, 234–5, 344; medical-review process and, 145, 146; organization of 1922 expedition and, 368; personality and demeanor of, 135; Raeburn evacuated to Sikkim by, 234, 236, 259–60, 310; Raeburn’s return and, 341; reports to RGS written by, 366; specimens collected by, 263, 303, 321, 322, 323, 324, 366; summit attempt and (1921), 342, 344, 348, 351, 352–5, 360, 361; Tibet and its people disdained by, 303–4; in Tingri, 259–60, 263, 286, 303–4, 310; travels and explorations of, 137–40; wartime experiences of, 135–6, 140, 304

  Wood, Captain (Royal Engineers), 64

  Wood-Johnson, George, 474

  Woolf, Leonard, 174

  Woolf, Virginia, 93, 174, 380

  Workers’ Educational Association, 466

  World Congress of Faiths, 62

  World War I, 3–39, 79, 87–99, 122, 126, 129, 143, 156, 164, 171, 176, 183, 185–97, 211, 294, 456, 559, 564–5; assault on Everest as gesture of imperial redemption after, 95–6; Bloomsbury set’s opposition to, 186; British defense of Ypres in (see Ypres, British defense of ); British military leaders’ ineptitude in, 15–16, 105, 194; communication difficulties in, 24; economic impact of, 197–8; end of, 91, 196–201; Everest expedition delayed by, 75, 83, 84, 87, 94; Finch’s experiences in, 149–50; Gallipoli campaign in, 22, 37, 128, 132–5, 150, 188, 189, 232, 390; gestalt of death changed by, 233–4; Graham’s conscientious objector status in, 472–3; Hazard’s experiences in, 474; Hingston’s experiences in, 481; Howard-Bury’s experiences in, 101–2, 104–8, 296; and Irvine’s appeal to older climbers, 478–9; leave for enlisted men and officers in, 90; London social life transformed by, 185–6; Loos debacle in (1915), 23, 88–9, 98, 104, 189; Lost Generation and, 248; Mallory’s experiences in, 185–97, 478–9; medical units in, 12–13, 17–23, 31–4, 37; memorial to FRCC members lost in, 3–6, 38–9; Morris’s experiences in, 372, 373–5, 448; Morshead’s experiences in, 211–12; new breed of climbers and experiences of, 456–7; Newfoundland Regiment in, 14–15, 16, 22–3, 28, 33–6; newspaper reports on, 33, 89; Noel’s experiences in, 97–9, 383; Norton’s experiences in, 391–2, 478–9, 498, 506; Odell’s experiences in, 475–6, 478–9; outbreak of, 7, 9, 185; oxygen masks evocative of, 385; Passchendaele offensive in (1917), 96–7; poison gas in, 12–13, 28, 88, 99, 392; propaganda efforts in, 93–5; psychological rift created by, 87, 89–93, 95–6, 448; quality of British troops in, 24–5; Rawling’s experiences in, 87–8, 96–7; shell shock in, 13, 98, 99; Somme offensive in (see Somme offensive); Spring Offensive in (1918), 91, 106–7, 195–6; Strutt’s experiences in, 379; third anniversary of Armistice and, 368–9; Tibet’s pro-British stance in, 114; trenches from, as tourist attraction, 454; trench warfare in, 11–12, 16, 23, 27–8, 35, 104–6, 132, 134–5, 191–3, 230–1, 233, 373; Versailles Treaty and, 200, 380; veterans’ desire to go anywhere but home after, 107; veterans of, applying for Everest expedition, 128, 130, 132; weaponry in, 14, 15, 16, 28; Wheeler’s experiences in, 230–2, 233, 234; Wollaston’s experiences in, 135–6, 140, 304; work stoppages during, 89–90

  World War II, 560, 565; Wheeler’s maps and, 230, 334

  Wyn-Harris, Percy, 564, 565–6

  Yaru Chu, 224, 236, 237, 238, 239, 240, 402

  Yatung, 52, 123, 311, 320, 394; Bruce evacuated to, 490–2; Dalai Lama’s stays in, 119, 120; Howard-Bury’s meeting with Bell in, 112, 114–16, 118, 364; 1921 expedition’s route through, 207, 214, 216, 218, 219, 364

  Yeats, W. B., 173, 183

  yetis, 353, 406, 499–500

  York, Duke of, 560

  Young, Geoffrey, 3–9, 144, 146, 148, 153, 154–5, 159–60, 168, 179, 184, 195, 199, 200, 201, 370, 381; in ambulance unit during war, 12–13, 186; family background of, 7–8; at FRCC memorial ceremony, 3–6, 38–9; limb lost by, 3–4, 194; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 558–60; Mallory’s climbs with, 8–9, 176–8, 183–4; Mallory’s letters to, 229, 235, 238, 341, 343–4, 348, 369, 446, 453, 478, 479; as war correspondent, 9, 11–12, 186

  Young, Hilton, 8, 176, 479

  Young, Kathleen Scott, 479

  Young, Lady Alice, 194

  Young, Len Slingsby, 3, 6, 200, 379

  Young, Sir George, 7–8

  Younghusband, Francis, 53–64, 67–8, 71, 76, 85, 113, 228, 288, 296, 367, 393, 438–39, 451, 459, 467, 468; background of, 53–5; clothing of, 57; diplomatic mission to Kampa Dzong led by, 53, 55–6, 57, 63, 64, 74, 80, 206; Everest first seen by, 46, 63–4; financing of expeditions and, 156, 159; Finch’s confidentiality agreement and, 461; Gurkhas and, 73; Himalayan explorations conceived by, 63–4; Howard-Bury’s dispatches to, 212, 218, 233, 236, 341, 363; Howard-Bury’s mission to India and, 108, 111, 113, 122, 123, 124; Lhasa expedition of (invasion of 1904), 57–62, 67–8, 74, 75, 85, 111, 112, 114, 115, 118–19, 120, 203, 206, 207, 210, 214, 215, 225, 247; Mallory’s and Irvine’s death and, 552, 556, 558, 560; Mallory’s l
etters to, 358–9, 446, 493; organization of 1921 expedition and, 125, 126, 132, 141, 154, 160–1, 320, 382; organization of 1922 expedition and, 368, 369, 385, 386; organization of 1924 expedition and, 455, 480, 483; as propagandist during war, 93–4; proposals for Everest expedition and, 86, 95, 100, 108–11, 113, 124, 125, 131; selection of team members and, 144, 152–3, 155, 156, 160, 201; on Sherpa character, 526; Tibet’s impact on, 61–2

  Ypres, British defense of, 6–7, 10–11, 12–13, 87–8, 90, 96, 99, 104, 107, 187

  Zambu, Tibet, 261

  Zermatt, 7

  Zinal Rothorn, 144

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