After the fermentation is in full swing, Lambics are put into wooden casks (or barrels), usually left over from port or sherry production, and left to make it happen. Here, even more little friends can get into the ale, such as bacteria in the wood—anything to funk it up, just like Lambic likes it. The Lambic is left to age for months, even years, depending on the brewer’s choice. Lambic brewing embraces the wildness in nature, lets go of the control and lab-like process of many brews, and appreciates whatever may come.
Once in the casks, Lambics are then blended, because each cask has something different to offer. A newer Lambic—bright, sour, and acidic—may be blended with an older one to balance it out. Most Lambics are a blend (called gueuze, pronounced GOOZE or GER-ZER; see Chapter 6), though straight, unblended Lambic can be found if one looks hard enough.
Sour-tasting Lambics are often softened by the addition of sweet macerated fruit. The sugar in the fruit gives the yeast something else to eat and creates a complex drink full of fruit character. Because Lambics can be quite funky, the fruit sweetens up the brew, making it approachable and almost dessert-like. Cherries, raspberries, peaches, black currants, and apples have all been used in Lambics. Note that the fruit is usually written in French or Flemish on the label—for example, peach = pêche, cherries = kriek. Like a good fresh fruit, fruited Lambics should be both sweet and tart. Some tend toward the sweet side, some are drier. This may be due to the blend or the age of the brew. Most are served in a flute type glass and are, in fact, reminiscent of Champagne. That’s right, we said Champagne. You ladies who think you know beer and hate it, don’t quit. Try a Lambic and allow your mind to be blown and your palate to be pleased. We are big fans of these Lambics:
LINDEMAN’S PÊCHE LAMBIC: Brouwerij Lindemans, Vlezenbeek Belgium. Sweet and sour, and deliciously peachy. Great for dessert, bubbly like Champagne. 4% ABV.
CANTILLION BLABAER LAMBIK: Brouwerij Cantillion, Brussels. Brewed with Danish blueberries; purple color with tiny bubbles. Complex, tart, and funky in a good way. 5% ABV.
SELINS GROVE THE PHOENIX KRIEK: Selin’s Brewing Company, Selinsgrove, Pennsylvania. Rich with balanced sour and sweet cherries. Nice warmth with a touch of vanilla. 8% ABV.
WISCONSIN BELGIAN RED : New Glarus Brewing Company, New Glarus, Wisconsin. A favorite Lambic style. This gem boasts over a pound of Door County cherries in each bottle; super bubbly and intense cherry. 5.1% ABV.
Your Beer Is Neither an Ale Nor a Lager ... Discuss: Hybrid Beers
Sometimes a beer is more than just one beer. It is two beers. Well, maybe not, but some beers dance between the definitions of lager and ale. This is because they are either fermented with lager yeast at high ale temperatures or vice versa. The “hybrid brews,” as we like to call them, can be hard to pin down in the beer world, but they help remind us that a beer should ultimately be judged by flavor, not by name alone. These are great gateway beers to the bigger styles in the following chapters. They still have a fairly light and delicate profile but begin to introduce darker malts and slightly bigger flavors of fruit and nuts. Here are some hybrid styles that may cross your path and please your palate.
Catch a Kölsch
THIS BEER’S FOR YOU IF YOU LIKE: GERMAN ENGINEERING. CYLINDRICAL RODS. THE RHINELAND. AOC. NUANCE. CRISP, CLEAN FLAVORS. SLIGHT FRUIT UNDERTONES.
Not many people have heard of Kölsch beer, but if you aren’t ready for the more bitter, bigger brews or if you have staunchly decided that you want something a bit softer than a German Pils, then Kölsch may be your baby. Kölsch is a hybrid beer made using top-fermenting yeast (making it an ale), but it then undergoes a cold fermentation, or lagering, which creates a beer that is super clean and light in body but with slight fruity and vinous undertones. Kölsch beers traditionally used a bit of wheat in the malt, but today, they’re one of Germany’s only all-barley pale beers, using mostly light Pilsner-style malts. They are sparkly clear with a frothy head and are known to have a pale straw color and low alcohol (between 4% and 6%). They should be clean and dry on the finish. Because these beers are lagered, a Kölsch has very slight but perceivable aromatics of biscuit and sourdough on the nose.
Despite its hybrid status, Kölsch is called the German Pale Ale by some and is another one of those beer styles that is named after its place of origin: Koln, in the Rhineland of Germany (Cologne to us Americans), just northwest of Bavaria. As a matter of fact, just like the French AOC denominations in wine—by which geographic regions govern and certify the quality of wine, cheeses, and other products—a Kölsch can be officially and legally labeled “Kölsch” only if it has been brewed by a member of the Koln Brewers Union in the city of Koln. Considered a female-friendly beer in Germany (that doesn’t mean that dudes don’t drink it!), Kölsch is traditionally served in a tall, skinny, cylindrical, 6.75-ounce glass called a Kolner Stangen, or Stange, German for “stick” (we were told by a leering drunken German ex-pat that it means “pole” or “rod,” to which we did not comment).
Kölsch beers are often overlooked, discounted as run-of-the-mill light beer. But because a Kölsch is so soft and delicate, it is essential that the brewer have great craft and skill; there are no powerful flavors to cover a mistake or an inferior ingredient. This style has a smallish distribution in the United States, but if you happen to see it in a store or bar, we strongly encourage you to try one! Try to grab one of the following:
REISSDORF KÖLSCH: Brauerei Heinrich Reissdorf, Cologne, Germany. A Kölsch with a cult following. Smooth, light, yet complex. Hints of jasmine and a cedar-like woody finish. 4.8% ABV.
HOLLYWOOD BLONDE: The Great American Brewing Company, Chatsworth, California. Light-bodied, tasty American-made beer that is more biscuity and corny than the authentic version, but just as good. 4.5% ABV.
NEW HOLLAND FULL CIRCLE : New Holland Brewing Company, Holland, Michigan. Brewed with a single malt (Pilsner) and a single hop (Saaz); light-bodied and rich in flavor but simple in its delivery. 5.25% ABV.
The Alternative Route: Altbier
THIS BEER’S FOR YOU IF YOU LIKE: TRADITION. ANTIQUES. NUTS. A SPLASH OF COLOR. LOW ALCOHOL. BITTERNESS. LIGHT BODIES.
Okay, we bet that you will love Kölsch because, well, we haven’t met anyone who didn’t, but are you feeling randy, baby? Have we earned your trust enough yet to take you to the next destination on your Beer Journey? Well, travel just 25 miles down the Rhine River from Cologne and you’ll be in Dusseldorf and in the land of the Altbier. Alt (German for “old”) harkens back to an old style of brewing in Germany. Just like Kölsch, the Altbier is one of the few indigenous German beers. And also like Kölsch, it’s another example of a hybridized beer style. Most Germans will tell you that an Altbier is definitely an ale. But once again, this is a beer that uses ale yeast and then ferments at cooler temperatures and is lagered, or stored fermenting for anywhere from one to two months.
Originally brewed in Westphalia, this kind of beer is a great foray into drinking a darker-colored beer for those beer drinkers who prefer lighter styles. Because of the lagering process, this beer has low hop aromatics, but instead of using the same Pilsner-style malts that Kölsch does, Altbier uses much darker malts, creating a deep amber, orangey, and copper-colored beer. Altbier does have some hop bitterness on the tongue, but it’s very subtle and is balanced by caramel, toasty flavors with a dry and nutty finish. This is a beer that is full of flavor yet still considered light bodied. It is generally low in alcohol (yes, there are exceptions). Because of its color, this beer frequently gets lumped into the Amber Ale category (see Chapter 4). But to us, Altbier has its own identity and deserves mad props. Here are some of our favorite Altbiers:
ALASKA NAMBER : Alaskan Brewing Company, Juneau, Alaska. Nutty, sweet, with roasted caramel. Light bodied, dry finish. 5.3% ABV.
OTTER CREEK COPPER ALE: Otter Creek/Wolaver’s. Middlebury, Vermont. Nutty and dry with notes of caramel. Well-balanced and true to the style. 5.4% ABV.
DIEBELS ALT: Brauerei Diebels, Issum, Ger
many. Complex and balanced, with dried fruit, tobacco, and cocoa. Finishes with nice hop bitterness. 5% ABV.
Steam Punk: Steam Beer and California
Common
THIS BEER’S FOR YOU IF YOU LIKE: AMERICAN HISTORY. SAN FRANCISCO. THE OLD WEST. PANNING FOR GOLD. LOW ALCOHOL. MEDIUM-ROAST MALT. SUBTLE NUTTINESS.
Steam beer is another ye olden style of beer but was born in the good old U.S. of A., most likely during the gold rush. It is basically another ale-lager hybrid because of the use of lager yeasts fermented at high ale temperatures. This was an attempt to make a refreshing lager-style beer without the use of refrigeration, as ice, cold water, and other ways to cool down water was often unavailable in the gold-rush era. It gained popularity in California and is still associated with San Francisco and its giant brewery Anchor. The beer was originally made cheaply (thus the lack of refrigeration) and probably tasted like crap back then—yes, it’s true. As with many beers from ye olden times, there wasn’t much control over the brewing environment, especially in the makeshift situations of the Old West. Now, of course, the style has been refined. Today, Anchor’s brewery is nothing to sneeze at, with copper kettles, quality ingredients, and pristine walkways.
The derivation of the name “steam” is much debated. Some claim it is because the CO2 pressure built up in the brew kettles and had to be released slightly before transfer, thus letting off “steam.” Others believe that the word comes from Dampbier, which is German for “steam beer,” an ale that German Americans would have been familiar with. Anchor Brewing subscribes to the belief that the name came from the brewery’s old practice of cooling the hot wort in large open bins on the brewery’s roof, sending up clouds of steam. Whatever the origin, this style typically has a nice nutty malt character, notes of fruit, with low to medium bitterness. They are low-alcohol beers, coming in at around 5%.
A relative of the steam beer is California Common. This style boasts the same flavor profile of steam beer, but has had to be renamed because of Anchor Brewing’s trademark of the name “Steam” (they’re no dummies). California Common has the same flavor notes of a steam and is fermented at high temperatures using lager yeast. But any craft brewer who wishes to re-create this style, often from California, must use “Common” on the label or face a good-old American legal battle. Here are our favorite uncommon Commons:
ANCHOR STEAM (STEAM BEER): Anchor Brewing Company, San Francisco, California. The classic. Nutty and lightly bitter, touch of sour and citrus. 5% ABV.
LUGNUT LAGER (CALIFORNIA COMMON): Skyscraper Brewing Company, El Monte, California. Nutty malt, hint of caramel, citrus hops, balanced. 5.2% ABV.
UP-IN-SMOKE ALE (CALIFORNIA COMMON): Bear Republic Brewing Company, Healdsburg, California. Earthy and crisp, with some floral and fruity hops. 5.9% ABV.
Okay, Neophyte, we’ve given you enough to drink for most of the rest of your life. Trust us, the quest for rare Lambics alone could fill the remainder of your beer days. Though you may feel the need to dare to drink different, bigger brews, and we encourage this rock ’n’ roll spirit, we want you to recognize the vastness of the craft world within even one style of beer, the pleasure that can come from comparing Kölschs and weighing in on Witbiers. The Beer Journey is not just about trying every different style in the world or about everyone else’s top 10 (except ours, of course); it’s about getting in deep, even when you’re in the shallow end of the beer ocean. The nuance of your palate depends on your ability to distinguish between even the tenderest of flavors and the most subtle of spices. This, beloved Neophyte, is what keeps the journey alive.
FOUR
The Sophomore
A quart of ale is a dish for a king.
—WILLIAM SHAKESPEARE
Still So Young
At this point you’re looking to move up in the system. You’ve lost any reservations you may have had about becoming a craft beer drinker, and you’re going to go the distance. Now that quality beer is making your life a lot happier, you’re ready to push the envelope. Being a Sophomore on the Beer Journey is something to revere. You know enough to feel more mature than the cute little Neophytes you once related to, but you know that you’re not far enough along to carry the weight of a true beer sommelier. Many beer Sophomores think now that they’ve learned about beer and found their favorite Pilsner, it’s done and their journey has ended. But don’t suffer this Sophomore slump. You’re young in your beer life, revel in it. Don’t worry about the responsibility of a beer expert—embrace mistakes and laugh them off. Visit the beers of different countries, go to the pub often, taste everything.
Now you can take your next not-so-baby steps. Many of the beer styles that we describe in this chapter use darker malts than the styles in the previous chapter. Now don’t judge them ahead of time because of their color; we think they’re the perfect next step, but not as steep a step as you may think. These beers are a little bigger, have a little more intensity, and are perhaps a little scary right now. But, fear not, young Jedi. We wouldn’t lead you astray. We think you’re ready. Drink or drink not ... there is no try.
Study Abroad: Across the Pond
A bit of tea and some fish and chippies—brilliant! But what about that pint at the pub? Are the Brits so different from us when it comes to beer? I mean, we share the same language, we both appreciate steak and potatoes, David Beckham, and rock ’n’ roll. Hell, we Americans get many of our brewing and beer drinking traditions from the Brits. After all, it was the Brits who popularized pubs (the public house) as a meeting place where most of life happened. This tradition remains a lively force in any English, Irish, or Scottish town. Going “down the pub” is as essential as the daily bread. The very word pint comes from an old British quantity that was used for corn and over time became the desirable amount for a glass of ale all over the world.
British, Scottish, and Irish beer culture differs from the general American beer culture in that it favors the nuanced top-fermenting ale. This means that their beer quest is not for the ice-cold lager or the especially bitter IPA but for the nuttier, more delicate, amber-colored ale or, especially in Ireland, the rich, dark Stout. The United Kingdom likes to hold on tightly to tradition, and the British were skeptical of hops when they first appeared on the beer scene in the 15th century. The ingredient was for a time banned in England, the public not yet used to the bitter hop bite. And Scotland was not able to produce many hop yields and thus created ales with a more sweet smoky flavor than a dry bitter taste. Once hops became the norm in England and were grown on British soil, ales took on the familiar dryness that we taste in pubs today. But even British IPAs are not too bitter, and the ales from this region still have a more subtle flavor profile than many American craft beers.
These traditional styles encourage a well-seasoned palate that can pick up on subtle fruit, caramel tones, spice, and hops. With this palate, beer drinkers go down the pub expecting the barkeep to pour them a true, quality brew, often made in-house. This respect for a proper pint has kept big breweries from dominating the UK beer scene.
We can learn a lot from drinking in a British pub and seeing what they favor and then comparing what we learn to the typical American bar. Craft brewers in the United States have embraced Britain’s love of these ales with open arms. Most American craft breweries offer a Bitter, or Nut Brown, and a Porter or Stout. Though the American beer world tends toward extreme beer styles, we can trace our craft brew roots back to the United Kingdom.
But much of the beer-going public fears the differences between British traditions and American beer practices. You may still be pondering the story your cool cousin Peter told you about being served warm beer in the United Kingdom and how he could hardly drink it. And what about that period piece you got dragged to where they pumped the beer by hand with a very unsanitary-looking old timey gadget you didn’t recognize? Gross! Or is it?
You need to respect British beer and customs before you suffer the stink eye from a surly British bartender. Stop before you a
sk for ice cubes for your beer (The Horror!). The Brits do indeed value different flavors, styles, and ways of drinking beer from those that we do, but their customs are not to be sneered at. They have evolved to enhance their delicious and decidedly British styles. The Brits love beer as much as we do. Their passion for the pint is legendary, so let’s examine what lies behind their taps.
LUKEWARM, AT BEST?
Okay, let’s get it out there: the Brits drink warm beer, right? Or do they? British beer is traditionally served at cellar temperature. Do you know how cold a cellar is in England? Let’s
just say, you wouldn’t want to strip down to your skivvies and let it all hang out in there. This temperature is actually about 55°F. Sound warm? Perhaps to our readers in Alaska it does. It’s true that traditional British beer drinkers stay away from the ice-cold beers many seem to revere in America. Why? The British want to keep their beers from being too cold because this allows the flavor nuances to be present rather than hidden by low temperatures. The nuttiness of an Extra Special Bitter (ESB) doesn’t come through as well at super-cold temperatures. Think of an ice-cold glass of wine versus one served at the correct temperature. The latter allows more fruit and floral notes to come through. The practice of serving beer at cellar temperatures does have its roots in tradition and, like many traditions, came from the practical circumstances of the time—a time before refrigeration existed (much less the kegerator). Yes, it’s true, when these beer styles were created, cellars were the only option, but this is still arguably the best temperature for beer. So don’t sneer at British beer—learn to love the perfect temp.
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