OMMEGANG BIÈRE DE MARS: Brewery Ommegang, Cooperstown, New York. Fine Belgian-style amber with a bit of magical space dust woven in: Brettanomyces bruxellensis, a wild yeast that imparts added tartness, extra zing, and a touch of funk; dry-hopping enhances the hop aroma. 6.5% ABV.
Those Monks Sure Know How to Live!
Damn, these brothers can brew. Devoted monks, in order to support their way of life, have modestly created what are, in our humble opinion, some of the best beers in the world. In fact, these are the only beers in the world for which we’d be willing to don brown robes, forgo makeup, and impersonate men. Brewers the world over have attempted to duplicate the style and grace of these beers, some with great success, but Marvin Gaye and Tammi Terrell said it best when they sang, “Ain’t nothing like the real thing, baby.” While our staunch reverence for these beers is sometimes mocked, our admiration will never die. The time has come for us to give you Trappist Ales.
The Brothers: Trappist Ales
THIS BEER’S FOR YOU IF YOU LIKE: PRAYING. FASTING. VOWS OF SILENCE. THE NAME OF THE ROSE. WEARING A ROBE. AOC. LADYHAWKE. SECRETS. TRADITION. LISTENING TO ENIGMA.
If you are studying wines, one of the first things you learn about is something called an AOC, the Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée, which is basically a law that protects the place of origin of the wine and sets geographical boundaries and guidelines for style, quality, and flavor. For instance, you’ve heard of a Burgundy wine. Well, Burgundy is the name of an AOC in east-central France that is the home to delicious and famous super-high-quality Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. According to the law, you cannot call your wine a Burgundy unless the grapes in your wine come from that particular established geographic region. In the beer world, there is something similar called Trappist or Trappiste beers.
How will you know that a beer is a Trappist? It’s all in the logo. These beers have an official logo/seal on the label that says, “Authentic Trappist Product” in white, with a red-brown background contained within a white-rimmed hexagon. If you see this sign, be sure to drink the brew and begin your religious experience. Trappist Ales have strict regulations, which are constantly monitored by an organization called the International Trappist Association (ITA). First of all, the beer must be brewed within the walls of a Trappist monastery, not contracted or farmed out to anyone else but on the actual premises of the monastery. Second, the beer must be brewed by the monks themselves or by someone who is under their complete control. Either way, the beer must be brewed to the monks’ age-old exact specifications, and no one else’s. Third, the brewery must not overshadow the fact that the monks are men of God first and brewers second. The making of beer and all brewery business take a backseat to the monastic way of life. Along those lines, there is a final rule governing Trappist breweries: the credo that the monks are not to brew beer for profit. What? That’s right, even though it might go against our sensibilities, the ITA’s rule says that the money that comes from selling Trappist beer is to go only toward living expenses and sustaining the monastery; the rest is to go to charity. Wow ... those guys must live like monks!
The ITA is not messing around. You could be the strictest monk, making great beer, but if the ITA says that you don’t qualify as a Trappist brewery, then you aren’t one, and all the self-flagellation and fasting in the world won’t get you there. And if you say you are a Trappist brewery and you haven’t been approved by the ITA, you might possibly get sued for using the name and logo. In addition, if you already have the Trappist seal of approval from the ITA, and you let secular people take control of the brewery or you become too commercialized or slack in sustaining the quality of the beer, the ITA can yank that name and logo right away from you. And don’t think they won’t do it. Like the French with their wine, the Belgians take their Trappist Ales very seriously.
With all of these rules and regulations, wars, revolutions, lawsuits, and strife, only seven Trappist breweries exist today. Yes, seven. That’s it. Six are in Belgium, and one is in the Netherlands. And they still create amazing beers with centuries-old recipes and traditions. The seven Trappist breweries are (drumroll please) the following:
WESTMALLE: The brewery at Abdij Trappisten van Westmalle is known as the originator of the Belgian beer style known as the Tripel (see page 130). The abbey, whose full name is Our Lady of the Sacred Heart, began making beer in 1836, although it wasn’t commercially available to us peons until 1920.
ORVAL: Originally established over 900 years ago, the Abbaye Notre-Dame d’Orval was destroyed and rebuilt several times until its most recent renewal in 1931 as a Trappist brewer. This brewery makes just one beer, simply called Orval, which means “valley of gold.” And it is one of our favorites (see page 126).
WESTVLETEREN: The smallest producer of all the Trappist breweries, Westvleteren is located at Abdij Sint Sixtus. These monks adhere strictly to making and selling only enough beer to sustain their brewery, shunning commercialism and brewing only once a week. Founded in 1831, Westvleteren doesn’t ship their beer or sell it to distributors. So if you want some, you’ll have to get yourself to Belgium and drive to the actual abbey or to the café in de Vrede across the street (the only venue that the monks say can resell Westvleteren). It’s illegal to sell or buy this beer in the United States.
ROCHEFORT: With a history that dates back to 1230, Rochefort beers are brewed at the Notre-Dame de Saint-Remy (Rochefort is a nearby town). This monastery has also gone through much strife and rebuilding as a result of war. The area also suffered famine and plague and the abbey was sold and demolished before finally being resurrected in the late 1800s. In 1899, the brewery began producing beer again, although not enough was available for sale until 1952. Rochefort arguably makes some of the best beer in the world.
ACHEL: Achel, or the Brouwerij der Sint-Benedictusabdij de Achelse Kluis, has a storied history that dates all the way back to the 1600s. Destroyed and rebuilt several times, this brewery was last dismantled in 1917, when the Germans wanted to use the copper from Achel’s brewery in their war effort. Revived in 1998 (with help from monks of Westmalle and Rochefort), Achel is the newest Trappist brewery.
CHIMAY: Brewed at the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Scourmont, Chimay is the Trappist brewery that you most likely recognize. Established in 1850, it is the most commercial and the most widely distributed of all the Trappist beers. Chimay has clearly put a lot of their revenue into production, advertising, and distribution.
TRAPPIST MIND TRICK
Knowledge is power. It’s great to remember the names of all the Trappist breweries so that you’ll recognize them on menus, but in our experience, being able to recite all of the Trappist breweries on the spot is actually an awesome way to impress your beer loving friends and pick up people in bars. But are you having a hard time remembering them all? Our friend and colleague actor Charlie Farrell came up with a mnemonic device to remember them that, he says, pays homage to us, his beer tutors. That device, embarrassingly enough, is “WOW, what a RACK,” and it is pure genius:
Westmalle
Orval
Westvleteren
...what a...
Rochefort
Achel
Chimay
Koningshoeven
Some may see this as a bit of selling out in the monk world, and others accuse the brewery of brewing beer outside of its monastic walls. But whatever the case, Chimay produces three high-quality, respectable ales.
KONINGSHOEVEN: Brewing since 1886, Koningshoeven (the Abbey of Tilburg and the Abbey of Our Lady of Koningshoeven) has had a bit of a controversial relationship with the International Trappist Association. With the pressures of production and declining numbers in the brotherhood, the monks decided to contract their beers to a Dutch Bavarian brewery that brewed the beers under the “La Trappe” moniker. Because of that, the ITA brought the smackdown and took away the brewery’s right to use the Authentic Trappist Product logo. However, the monks appealed, claiming that even though the brew is being made by s
ecular people, the brewery is still entirely on the monastery grounds, and its operations are still under the monks’ complete control. In October 2005, the ITA reconsidered and granted Koningshoeven the right to use the logo.
It is a badge of honor for any beer aficionado to have tasted some or all of the Trappist beers. They are becoming more and more popular (sometimes to the monks’ and our chagrin) and, as a result, are becoming more available in the United States. However, Trappist monasteries still regulate the amount of beer sold, sometimes making them extremely hard to get and notoriously hard to stock in craft beer bars and specialty shops. Sometimes an importer or distributor may get only one or two shipments a year of certain beers. On the other hand, we just saw four different Trappist Ales at Whole Foods. Yes, the times they are a changin’. But it is still feast or famine with these special beers. Our modus operandi is that when we see a Trappist beer, we buy it. These beers are great to have on hand and are fantastic as collector’s items because many Trappist Ales are even better after aging (see page 173). It’s amazing to explore the different ales from these highly respected breweries. Here are our favorites from each of the holy Trappist breweries:
WESTMALLE TRIPEL: Brouwerij Westmalle, Malle, Belgium. The Tripel that started all Tripels. This is an amazing beer with a great balance; lemon on the lips, sweet and dry with floral and fruity esters, and a lovely lingering finish. 9.5% ABV.
ORVAL TRAPPIST ALE: Abbaye de Notre-Dame d’Orval, Belgium. The only beer made by the Trappist brewery at Orval. This beer is wonderfully unique. Earthy, rustic, and super dry, with notes of flannel, dirt (in a good way), and grass. 6.9% ABV.
WESTVLETERENBLONDE: Abdij Sint Sixtus, Belgium. This exclusive Trappist brewery is famous for its Westvleteren 12 Quadrupel, but our favorite is this Belgian Pale Ale. Reminiscent of a Witbier, this pale straw beer is bright, spicy, herbaceous, and perfectly bitter. 5.8% ABV.
TRAPPISTES ROCHEFORT 6 (RED CAP): Notre-Dame de Saint-Remy, Belgium. The lightest bodied of Rochefort’s three dark ales; beautifully restrained and dry but still has the raisiny, spicy goodness of this brewery’s bigger beers. 7.5% ABV.
ACHEL 8° BRUNE: Brouwerij der Sint-Benedictusabdij de Achelse Kluis, Belgium. Delicious Trappist Dubbel that pours a super effervescent deep orange with hints of figs, vanilla, green apple, brown sugar, biscuit, and a touch of pepper. An amazing balance and finish. 8% ABV.
CHIMAY GRANDE RÉSERVE (BLUE): Abbaye Notre-Dame de Scourmont, Belgium. A Trappist Dubbel (sometimes called a Belgian Strong Ale) that’s much different from the Achel and will give you insight about the varieties that can exist in one beer style. Deep and dark with notes of Old World fruits and spices. Plums and persimmons, cloves and cardamom. 9% ABV.
KONINGSHOEVEN QUADRUPEL: Abbey of Tilburg, The Netherlands. Creamy caramel, cocoa, sweet fruit, and some citrus notes, all followed by a warming viscous finish. Delicious and dangerous at 10% ABV.
Other Cloistered Beers: Abbey and Abbey-Style Beers
THIS BEER’S FOR YOU IF YOU LIKE: DRESSING UP AS A MONK FOR HALLOWEEN. BORROWING NAMES. PROPRIETARY YEAST STRAINS. COMPLEX SPICE AND FRUIT. LESS RIGIDITY.
Now wait just a minute. Haven’t you seen a million beers out there with a monk on the label? You know that there are way more than seven beers that were brewed at the Abbey of Such and Such and made by Father or Pater or Brother So-and-So! These beers sport a figure of a monk, or the outline of a robe, or a picture of an abbey. So why aren’t these Trappist breweries?
Well, even though there are only seven Trappist breweries today, there used to be a lot more. And many of the monasteries that brew beer aren’t necessarily of the Trappist order. Over time, these monastery breweries stopped production for whatever reason and, in many cases, were taken over by secular breweries that have bought the rights from those monks and are licensed to use their abbey and beer names, brewing methods, recipes, proprietary yeast, and sometimes even the equipment and brewery buildings. Affligem and St. Bernardus are examples of breweries that have these kinds of arrangements. Beers brewed under these circumstances, based in true monastic breweries, are called Abbey Ales.
There’s another category of Abbey Ales that aren’t necessarily brewed under a monastic license. Many of these breweries are named after defunct monasteries that perhaps never even had a brewery. Some Belgian breweries are also named after saints and other religious symbols but have never been under the control of any religious organization. Most beer connoisseurs call beers from these breweries Abbey-style ales instead of Abbey Ales, to denote the difference. Even lower down on the name-game ladder (not to us, but to some) are the American beers that are made in the monastic style. These beers, no matter how skillfully crafted, are relegated to being called Belgian-style beers. Try these amazing beers and see if the Trappist stamp really makes the difference to you.
ST. BERNARDUS PRIOR 8: Brouwerij St. Bernardus, Watou, Belgium. A Dubbel; sweet with notes of caramel, raisins, and chocolate. Nice esters and a good kick. 8% ABV.
AUGUSTIJN GRAND CRU:Brouwerij Van Steenberge, Ertvelde, Belgium. Surprisingly delicate and complex. Herbaceous, with hints of mango and passion fruit and a hoppy dryness. 9% ABV.
MAREDSOUS 10: Brouwerij Duvel Moortgat, Breendonk, Belgium. A Tripel; big citrus, lemon, and orange on the nose, with slight vanilla and a tart bitter dryness. 10% ABV.
The Holy Grail: Dubbels, Tripels, and Singles
THIS BEER’S FOR YOU IF YOU LIKE: MONTY PYTHON. COOL GLASSWARE. MONKS. TRADITION. COMPLEXITY. SECRET RECIPES. HIGH ALCOHOL. OLD WORLD TRADITION.
Although the Trappist name does represent a paramount level of quality and craftsmanship, it doesn’t necessarily define a beer’s style. They fall under the Trappist name because, as we said earlier, they are made by monks. Trappist beers come in many different styles, colors, and ABVs. All of the Trappist beers are bottom-fermenting ales and are famously higher in alcohol content than your average pint. But while Belgians obviously respect and honor their traditional brewing methods, they have also historically allowed a certain amount of creativity. They have taken some of the brewing traditions from the Trappist breweries and created their own versions of strong Belgian Ales, often called—you guessed it—Belgian Strong Ales. Many of these beers are so complex or unique that they can’t simply be pigeonholed into a single style, thus the rather large umbrella-style name. (That’s fine with us; we’d prefer to let our palates decide.) However, some Trappist Ales have developed a huge following and have been so highly lauded and so often imitated that a style has arisen from those particular beers. These are styles that tried to stay quite close to the flavor profiles of the Trappist Ales. Two such beer styles are Dubbels (Doubles) and Tripels (Trippels or Triples).
Again, like many things in the beer world, a lot of speculation surrounds how these beer styles got their names. Many people wonder what a Dubbel is and assume that it is a beer that is twice the strength of a mysterious original beer. Although it might be true that the term Dubbel was used to imply a certain relative beer strength, there’s little proof that this is the true definition. Many people assert that a Dubbel is a beer that has been fermented twice, and while that is sometimes true, the term refers mainly to style parameters. A Dubbel is a dark, relatively high alcohol content beer (6.5% to 7% ABV) that is fairly malty and sweet, with a spice profile that can have notes of clove, nutmeg, allspice, and cardamom. Dubbels usually have secondary flavors of dark, Old World fruit, like figs and plums. Fruity yeast esters should definitely be present in the nose. These beers are typically medium bodied, and while they have the potential to be fairly cloying beers, the skill and quality of the style comes through in their dry finish and high effervescence level, which should lift the ale off the palate.
Tripels were made popular by the Westmalle Tripel, and this beer style, too, suffers the same misunderstandings that Dubbels have. People assume that tripel means that the beer is three times stronger than some mysterious original ale or that it is a beer that has been fermented thre
e times. However, once again, it comes down to the style parameters. A Tripel is a complex, lighter colored beer that has distinct citrus and herbal characteristics. This relatively full bodied beer should have slightly higher alcohol content than a Dubbel, ideally running between 7.5% and 9.5% ABV. Again, fruity esters should be present from the yeast strain used, and there should be a dry and mildly bitter hop presence along with sparkling carbonation to assist with a long but lean finish.
This does beg the question though, If there be a Dubbel and a Tripel, wherest is the Single? Does the Belgian Single exist? Is that the elusive “original” beer? The answer is yes, but it’s very unlikely that you will get your hands on an authentic one (and if you do, call us). These Single Abbey Ales are the beers that the monks make to drink themselves. It’s often their table beer. Though these beers are much lighter bodied than their brethren, they still have complexity and spice. This is a great style for the monks, who could drink the ale with their meal and still concentrate on their meditations and their work. Many beers today are made in this style under many titles. Sometimes they are called Belgian Pale Ales, sometimes simply Belgian Ales, and sometimes (but rarely) called Single-Style Ales. The following are a few of these styles we praise:
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