These words in the mouth of the Empress struck me, on account of the pre-occupation of idea which they discovered. It seemed to me also that she meant to manifest a kind of benevolence towards me, which was expressed with a politeness and a simplicity that are rarely seen.
The Empress, the moment she speaks, inspires confidence as well as respect. Through the reserve which the language and usages of court render compulsory, it is easy to see that she has a heart. This misfortune imparts to her an indefinable charm. She is more than an empress, she is a woman.
She appeared to be suffering from extreme fatigue. The thinness of her person is quite shocking. The agitation of the life she leads is consuming her, and
L 6
228FETE AT THE PALACE.
they say that the ennui of a life more calm would he equally injurious.
The fete which followed our presentation was one of the most magnificent that I have ever seen. The admiration and astonishment with which each saloon of this palace (rebuilt in a year), inspired the whole court, imparted a dramatic interest to the formal pomp of the usual ceremonies. Every hall and every painting was a subject of surprise to the Russians themselves, who now for the first time saw the marvellous abode which the word of their Deity had caused to spring from its ashes. What an effort of human will, thought I, as I contemplated each gallery, sculpture and painting. The style of the ornaments calls to mind the age in which the palace was originally founded, and what I saw appeared already ancient. They copy everything in Russia, not excepting even the effects of time. These wonders inspired the crowd with an admiration that was contagious, and my internal indignation at the means by which the miracle was created, began to diminish. If I could feel such an influence after only two days' abode here, what allowance should not be made for the men who are born, and who pass their life in the air of the Russian court!—that is in Russia; for it is the air of the court which is breathed from one end of the empire to the other. Even the serfs, through their relations with their lords, feel the in-fluence of that sovereign will which alone animates the country : the courtier who is their master, is for them the image of the emperor, and the court is present to the Russians wherever there is a man to command, and men to obey.
RUSSIAN COURTIERS.229
Elsewhere the poor are either beggars, or unruly members of society; in Russia they are all courtiers. The courtier is found in every rank of society, and for this reason it is that I say, the court is everywhere. There is, between the sentiments of the Russian nobles and those of men of family in ancient Europe, the same difference that there is between the eom`tier and the aristocrat, or l)etween emotions of vanity and of pride ; — true pride, which is almost as rare as virtue — is virtue. Instead of abusing courtiers as Beaumarchais and so many others have done, these men, who, whatever may be said, are like other men, deserve pity. Poor unfortunate courtiers! they are not the monsters that our modern plays and romances, or our revolutionary journals describe ; they are merely weak creatures, corrupted and corrupting, as much as, but not more than, others who are less exposed to temptation. Ennui is the curse of riches, still it is not a crime : vanity and interest are more strongly excited, and therefore more eagerly sought in a court than on any other stage of action : and these passions abridge life. But if the hearts they agitate are more tormented, they are not more perverse than those of other men. Human wisdom would accomplish much if it could sueceed in showing to the multitude how much it ought to feel of pity instead of envy towards the possessors of a fancied good.
I saw them dancing in the very place where they had themselves nearly perished under blazing ruins, and where others had since actually died, in order that they might be amused on the day appointed by the emperor. This thought made me refleet in spite of myself, and shed (for me) a gloom over the entire
230COURT DANCES.
fete. Elsewhere liberty gives birth to a feeling of gladness which is favourable to illusion; here despotism suggests meditations which make it impossible to deceive one's self.
The kind of dance that is most common at the grand fetes of this country, does not disturb the course of ideas. The company promenade in a solemn step to the sound of music, each gentleman taking his partner by the hand. In the palace, hundreds of couples thus follow in procession, proceeding from one immense hall to another, winding through the galleries crossing the saloons, and traversing the whole building in such order or direction as the caprice of the individual who leads, may dictate. This is called dancing la Polonaise. It is amusing at first, but for those destined to dance it all their lives, balls must, I think, be a species of torture.
The Polonaise at Petersburg recalled to my memory the congress of Vienna, where I had danced it in 1814. No etiquette was observed in the European fetes celebrated on that occasion, every one's place in the dance was regulated by hazard, though in the midst of all the monarchs of the earth. My fate had placed me between the Emperor Alexander and his consort, who was a princess of Baden. All at once, the line of the dancing couples was stopped without our perceiving the reason, as the music continued playing. The emperor, growing impatient, put his head over my shoulder, and, addressing himself to the empress, told her in a very rude tone, to move on. The empress turned, and perceiving behind me the emperor, with a lady as his partner for whom he had for some days past manifested a violent passion,
THE GRAND GALLERY.231
she retorted, with an expression altogether indescribable, " Toujours poli! " The autocrat bit his lips as he caught my eye, and the line of dance again moved forward.
I was dazzled with the splendour of the great gallery: it is now entirely gilded, though before the fire it was only painted white. That disaster has served to minister to the taste which the emperor has for the magnificent.
All the ambassadors of Europe had been invited to admire the marvellous achievement of this government, a government which is so m;ich the more bitterly criticised by the vulgar, as it is admired and envied by political men, — minds essentially practical, and who, approve the simplicity of the machine of despotism. One of the largest palaces in the world built in a year ! what a subject of admiration for men accustomed to breathe the air of courts !
Great objects are never attained without great sacrifices. Unity, force, and authority in the direction of public affairs, are purchased here by the loss of liberty, while in France, j)olitical liberty and commercial wealth have been purchased at the cost of the ancient spirit of chivalry, and of that delicacy of feeling formerly called our national honour. This honour is replaced by other virtues less patriotic, but more universal -÷- by humanity, religion and charity. Every one admits that in France there is more religion now than there was at a time when the clergy was all-powerful. A wish to embrace the advantages which do not belong to each situation, is to lose those which do belong to it. It is this which is not ad-
232POLITICAL REFLECTIONS.
mitted in France, where we expose ourselves to the danger of destroying everything by our very wish to preserve everything. Each nation is governed by its own law of necessity, to which it must submit, under penalty of national ruin.
We want to be commercial like the English, free like the Americans, at liberty to follow our caprices like the Poles in the times of their diets, and conquerors like the Russians; all which is tantamount to being nothing. The good sense of a nation consists in perceiving and choosing the object that suits its genius, and is indicated by nature and history, and then, in shrinking from no sacrifices necessary to attain it.
France wants good sense in her ideas, and moderation in her desires. She is generous, she is even resigned *; but she does not know how to employ and direct her powers. She acts by impulse and at random. A country where, from the time of Fenelon, they have done nothing but talk of politics, is, in the present day, neither governed nor served. There are plenty of men who see and deplore the evil; but as for the remedy, every one seeks it in his passion, and therefore no one finds it, for the passio
ns persuade those only who are under their influence.
Nevertheless, it is at Paris that one still leads the most pleasant life. We there amuse ourselves with every thing by finding fault; at Petersburg people weary of every thing in bestowing praise ; pleasure, however, is not the end of existence, not even for individuals, and still less for nations.
* Elle est méme résignée.
THE QUEEN OP GEORGIA.233
What appeared to me more splendid even than the ball-room in the winter palace, was the gallery in which supper was served. It is not entirely finished, and the lights in temporary paper transparencies had a fantastic appearance which did not displease me. So unexpected an illumination in honour of the marriage-day, did not certainly correspond with the general decorations of the magical palace, but it produced a light clear as that of the sun, and this was enough for me. Thanks to the progress of commercial economy, we no longer see in France anything but tapers ; there seem to be yet in Russia real wax candles. The supper-table was splendid; in this fete every thing was colossal, every thing was also innumerable in its kind, and I scarcely knew which most to admire, the superb effect of the whole, or the magnificence and the quantity of the objects considered separately. A thousand persons were seated together at the table.
Among these thousand, all more or less blazing with gold and diamonds, was the Khan of the Kirguises, whom I had seen at the chapel in the morning. I remarked also an old Queen of Georgia, who had been dethroned thirty years previously. This poor woman languished, unhonoured, at the court of her conqueror. Her face was tanned like that of a man's used to the fatigues of the camp, and her attire was ridiculous. ЛУе are too ready to laugh at misfortune when it appears under a form that does not please us. ЛУе should wish to see a Queen of Georgia rendered more beautiful by her distress; but we here see just the contrary, and, when the eyes are displeased, the heart soon becomes unjust. This is
234THE RUSSIAN COURT-DRESS.
not generous, but I confess I could not help smiling to see a royal head crowned with a kind of shako, from whence hung a very singular veil. All the other ladies wore trains; but the queen of the East had on a short embroidered petticoat. There was much of the worn-out and wearied courtier in her expression, and her features were ugly. The national dress of the Russian ladies at court is antique and striking. They wear on the head a kind of tower, formed of rich stuff, and something resembling in shape the crown of a man's hat, lowered in height, and open at the top. This species of diadem is generally embroidered with jewels: it is very ancient, and gives an air of nobleness and originality to handsome persons, while it singularly enhances the ugliness of plain ones. Unfortunately, these last are very numerous at the Russian court, from whence people seldom retire, except to die, so attached are the aged people to the posts they there occupy. In general, female beauty is rare at Petersburgh ; but among the higher classes the charm of graceful manners often supplies the place of elegant forms and regular features. There are, however, a few Georgian women who unite the two advantages. These females shine amid the women of the north, like stars in the profound darkness of a southern night. The shape of the court robes, with their long sleeves and trains, gives to the whole person an oriental aspect which, in a large assembly thus robed, has a very imposing effect.
An incident, singular enough in its character, has afforded me a specimen of the perfect politeness of the emperor.
THE SUPPEE.
235
During the ball, a master of the ceremonies had indicated to such of the foreigners as appeared for the first time at this court, the places that were reserved for them at the supper-table. "When you see the ball interrupted," he said to each of us, " follow the crowd into the gallery, where you will find a large table laid out; take the side to the right, and seat yourselves in the first places you find unoccupied."
There was but one table, laid with one thousand covers, for the corps diplomatique, the foreigners, and all the attendants at court; but at the entrance of the hall, on the right hand side, was a little round table laid for eight.
A Genevese, an intelligent and well-educated young man, had been presented the same evening in the uniform of a national guard, a dress which is in general anything but agreeable to the emperor; nevertheless, this young Swiss appeared perfectly at home. TThether it was owing to natural assurance, republican ease, or pure simplicity of heart, he seemed neither to think of the persons around him, nor of the effect that he might. produce upon them. I envied Ins perfect self-confidence, which I was far from participating. Our manners, though very different, had the same success ; the emperor treated us both equally well.
An experienced and intelligent person had recommended to me, in a tone half serious, half jocose, to maintain a respectful and rather timid air if I wished to please the monarch. This counsel was quite superfluous, for if I were to enter the hut of a collier, in order to make his acquaintance, I should experience
236THE GENEVESE AT SUPPER.
some little degree of physical embarrassment, so naturally do I shrink from society. A man has never German blood without showing it; I possessed, therefore, naturally, the degree of timidity and reserve requisite to satisfy the jealous majesty of the Czar, who would be as great as he wishes to appear, if he were less prepossessed with the notion that those who approach him are likely to fail in respect. This inquietude of the emperor does not, however, always operate ; of which, and of the natural dignity of that prince, the following is an instance.
The Genevese, far from partaking of my old-fashioned modesty, was perfectly at his ease. He is young, and has about him all the spirit of the age mingled with a simplicity of his own ; and I could not but admire his air of assurance each time the emperor addressed him.
The affability of the monarch was soon put by the young Swiss to a decisive proof. On passing into the banquet hall, the republican, turning towards the right, according to the instruction he had received, came across the little round table, and intrepidly seated himself before it, though there was no other person there to keep him company. The moment after, the crowd of guests being placed, the emperor, followed by some officers who enjoyed his special confidence, advanced and took his scat at the same table at which was placed the worthy Swiss national guardsman. I should state that the empress was not at this table. The traveller remained in his chair with the imperturbable ease which I had already so much :idmired in him, and which, under the circumstances, was really admirable,
POLITENESS OF THE EMPEEOR.237
A seat was wanting, for the emperor had not expected this ninth guest; but, with a politeness the completeness of which was equivalent to the delicacy of a kind heart, he spoke in a low voice to a servant, directing; him to bring a chair and another cover, which was done without any noise or trouble.
Being placed at the extremity of the great table,
close to that of the emperor, this occurrence could
not escape my observation, nor, consequently, that of
him who was its object. But, this happily-consti
tuted young man, far from troubling himself because
he perceived he had been placed contrary to the in
tention of the sovereign, maintained, with the most
perfect sang froìd, a conversation with his two near
est neighbours, which lasted during the whole repast.
I thought to myself, he has good sense ; he does not
wish to make a public display: but, no doubt, he
only waits the moment when the emperor rises, to ap
proach him, and to offer some word of explanation.
Nothing of the kind ! When supper was over the
young Swiss, far from excusing himself, seemed to
view the honour he had received as nothing more
than was quite natural. On returning to his lodg
ing he would doubtless inscribe, with the most per
fect simplicity, in his journal — " Supped with the
emperor." However, his majesty rather abridged
the pleasure : rising, before the guests who sat at the
great table, he passed round behind our chairs, all the
while desiring that we should remain seated. The
Hereditary Grand-duke accompanied his father; I
observed this young prince stop behind the chair of a
gi`eat English nobleman, the Marquis, and ex
change some jest with the young Lord, son of
238NIGHT-SCENE IN THE NOIÌTH.
the same marquis. The foreigners remained seated, like every body else, before the prince and the emperor, answered them with their backs turned, and continued eating.
This exhibition of English politeness shows that the Emperor of Russia has greater plainness of manners than have many of the owners of private houses.
I had scarcely expected to find at this ball a pleasure altogether foreign to the persons and objects around. I allude to the impressions which the great phenomena of nature have always produced in me. The temperature of the day had risen to 50 degrees, and notwithstanding the freshness of the evening, the atmosphere of the palace during the fete was suffocating. On rising from table I took refuge in the embrasure of an open window. There, completely abstracted from all that passed around, I was suddenly struck with admiration at beholding one of those effects of light which we see only in the north, during the magic brightness of a polar night. It was half-past twelve o'clock, and the nights having yet scarcely begun to lengthen, the dawn of day appeared already in the direction of Archangel. The wind had fallen : numerous belts of black and motionless clouds divided the firmament into zones, each of which was irradiated with a light so brilliant, that it appeared like a polished plate of silver; its lustre was reflected on the Neva, to whose vast and un-rippled surface it gave the appearance of a lake of milk or of mother-of-pearl. The greater part of Petersburg, with its quays and its spires, was, under this light, revealed before my eyes; it was a perfect
Russia in 1839 -Empire of the Czar: A Journey Through Eternal Russia Page 23