by Julia Reed
Celery Root Remoulade
champagne
Black Velvet
Death in the Afternoon
French 75
Imperial Cossack Crusta
Ritz 75
Simca’s Champagne Cocktail
cheese
Cheese Dreams
Deborah Madison’s Fennel, Mushroom, and Parmesan Salad
Julia Child’s Roquefort Cheese Balls
Risotto Cakes with Mozzarella
Stephen Stryjewski’s Squash and Zucchini Salad with Goat Cheese and Spicy Pecan Vinaigrette
Chicken Hash, Julia Brooks’s
Chocolate Cake, Joyce’s Flawless Flourless
Chris Hannah’s Pimm’s Cup
Cobbler, The Best Blackberry
Cold Lemon Soufflé
The Commander’s Palace Whiskey Smash
Corn Calas, Stephen’s
cornbread
Harriet’s Cornbread
Hot Water Cornbread
Corpse Reviver No. 2
Crabmeat Bruschetta
Cranberry Conserve
Crawfish Étouffée
Daiquiri, Frozen Peach
Dale DeGroff’s Planter’s Punch
Daniel Boulud’s Eggplant with Cumin
Death in the Afternoon
Deborah Madison’s Fennel, Mushroom, and Parmesan Salad
Eggnog, World’s Greatest
eggplant
Buranee Banjan
Daniel Boulud’s Eggplant with Cumin
Fried Eggplant with Salmorejo Sauce
Grilled-Eggplant Salad with Fresh Mint
Elizabeth David’s “Cucumber and Chive Salad”
figs
Fig-Infused Bourbon “Toddy”
The Hot and Hot Fish Club’s Fig-Infused Small Batch Bourbon
French 75
French Dressing
Fried Eggplant with Salmorejo Sauce
Frozen Peach Daiquiri
gin
Bouligny Tavern’s Sage Julep
Corpse Reviver No. 2
Gin Punch
Gin Rickey
Gin Sour
The Straddling Thorsten
The ’21’ Club Southside Cocktail
Green Goddess Dressing
Grilled Marinated Tuna with Fresh Herbs
Grilled-Eggplant Salad with Fresh Mint
Halekulani Mai Tai
Harriet’s Cornbread
Hot Water Cornbread
The Hot and Hot Fish Club Ginger Martini
The Hot and Hot Fish Club’s Fig-Infused Small Batch Bourbon
Imperial Cossack Crusta
Irish Champ
Irish Whiskey Sauce
Jambon Persille or Parsleyed Ham in Aspic
Jason’s Tarte Tatin
Joyce’s Flawless Flourless Chocolate Cake
Judy’s Iced Lemon Squares
Judy’s Slaw
Judy’s Squash Casserole
Julia Brooks’s Chicken Hash
Julia Child’s Roquefort Cheese Balls
Lamb Shoulder, Braised
Lavender Mint Syrup
Lee Bailey’s Steamed Okra with Warm Tomato Vinaigrette
lemons
Cold Lemon Soufflé
Judy’s Iced Lemon Squares
Nigel Slater’s A Lemon Dressing for Summer
Mai Tai, Halekulani
martinis
The Hot and Hot Fish Club Ginger Martini
Pepe’s Flame of Love
The Vesper
Mary Lou’s Pesto
mayonnaise
Basic Mayonnaise
Spicy Mayonnaise
McGee Memorial Sangria
Meatloaf, Bill Blass’s
Montgomery Champagne Punch
My Old Fashioned
My Succotash
Niçoise Salad
Nigel Slater’s A Lemon Dressing for Summer
Okra, Lee Bailey’s Steamed, with Warm Tomato Vinaigrette
Old Fashioned, My
Oyster Red Rice Dressing
peas
Black-Eyed Pea Salad
Warm Field Pea and Shrimp Salad
pecans
Rum Pecan Pie
Stephen Stryjewski’s Squash and Zucchini Salad with Goat Cheese and Spicy Pecan Vinaigrette
Pepe’s Flame of Love
Pesto, Mary Lou’s
Pete Evans’s Pimm’s Cup
Pie, Rum Pecan
Pimm’s
Chris Hannah’s Pimm’s Cup
Pete Evans’s Pimm’s Cup
Pimm’s Royale
Pisto
pork
Jambon Persille or Parsleyed Ham in Aspic
Pork Loin Marinated in Paprika and Herbs
Suzanne Goin’s Pork Burgers
punch
Dale DeGroff’s Planter’s Punch
Gin Punch
Montgomery Champagne Punch
Savannah Planter’s Punch
Red Rooster
Remoulade Sauce
Risotto Cakes with Mozzarella
Ritz 75
Roman Steaks
rum
Dale DeGroff’s Planter’s Punch
Frozen Peach Daiquiri
Halekulani Mai Tai
Rum Pecan Pie
Savannah Planter’s Punch
St. Cloud
salads and dressings
Black-Eyed Pea Salad
Deborah Madison’s Fennel, Mushroom, and Parmesan Salad
Elizabeth David’s “Cucumber and Chive Salad”
French Dressing
Green Goddess Dressing
Grilled-Eggplant Salad with Fresh Mint
Judy’s Slaw
Niçoise Salad
Nigel Slater’s A Lemon Dressing for Summer
Stephen Stryjewski’s Squash and Zucchini Salad with Goat Cheese and Spicy Pecan Vinaigrette
Warm Field Pea and Shrimp Salad
Salmon Rillettes, Anne Kearney’s Double
Sangria, McGee Memorial
sauces
Fried Eggplant with Salmorejo Sauce
Irish Whiskey Sauce
Lee Bailey’s Steamed Okra with Warm Tomato Vinaigrette
Mary Lou’s Pesto
Remoulade Sauce
Tomato Sauce
Yogurt Sauce
Savannah Planter’s Punch
Savory Sweet Potato Gratin
Seafood Newburg
shrimp
Shrimp Malacca
Warm Field Pea and Shrimp Salad
Simca’s Champagne Cocktail
Soufflé, Cold Lemon
Spicy Mayonnaise
spinach
Spinach Madeleine
V.D. Spinach
squash
Judy’s Squash Casserole
Stephen Stryjewski’s Squash and Zucchini Salad with Goat Cheese and Spicy Pecan Vinaigrette
steak
Roman Steaks
Steak Diane
Stephen Stryjewski’s Squash and Zucchini Salad with Goat Cheese and Spicy Pecan Vinaigrette
Stephen’s Corn Calas
The Straddling Thorsten
Succotash, My
Suzanne Goin’s Pork Burgers
Sweet Potato Gratin, Savory
Tarte Tatin, Jason’s
tomatoes
Lee Bailey’s Steamed Okra with Warm Tomato Vinaigrette
Tomato Sauce
Tuna, Grilled Marinated, with Fresh Herbs
The ’21’ Club Southside Cocktail
V.D. Spinach
The Vesper
vodka
Bullshot
Red Rooster
St. Cloud
Warm Field Pea and Shrimp Salad
Watermelon Pickle Hors D’Oeuvres
whiskey. See also bourbon
The Commander’s Palace Whiskey Smash
Irish Whiskey Sauce
My Old Fashioned
Whiskey Smash 2
World’s Greatest Eggno
g
Yogurt Sauce
The Yucca Flats
ALSO BY JULIA REED
Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns, and Other Southern Specialties: An Entertaining Life (with Recipes)
The House on First Street: My New Orleans Story
Queen of the Turtle Derby and Other Southern Phenomena
About the Author
Julia Reed is a contributing editor at Garden & Gun, where she writes the magazine’s “The High & the Low” column. She is the author of Ham Biscuits, Hostess Gowns, and Other Southern Specialties, Queen of the Turtle Derby and Other Southern Phenomena, and The House on First Street, My New Orleans Story. She lives in New Orleans.
BUT MAMA ALWAYS PUT VODKA IN HER SANGRIA! Copyright © 2013 by Julia Reed. All rights reserved. For information, address St. Martin’s Press, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10010.
www.stmartins.com
Cover photographs:
Pitcher © Foodcollection/Getty Images;
Glass © BMJ/Shutterstock.com;
Blackberries © Ravl/Shutterstock.com;
Raspberries © Kesu/Shutterstock.com;
Blood orange © Anna Hoychuk/Shutterstock.com
ISBN 978-1-250-01904-2 (hardcover)
ISBN 978-1-250-01905-9 (e-book)
First Edition: May 2013
Table of Contents
Title Page
Copyright Notice
Dedication
Acknowledgments
Introduction
Eating
1. The Great Leveler
2. The Society Diet
3. Dining on the Nile
4. Lady in Spain
5. Kill That Taste!
6. My Dinners with Jason
7. Someone’s in the Kitchen with Dinah (and Pearl and Ernestine)
8. Purple Passion
9. Burger Heaven
10. Summer on a Plate
11. The Tyranny of Summer Produce
Drinking
12. Of Pimm’s and Paris
13. Gin!
14. Men and Martinis
15. The Importance of Holiday Cheer
16. One Two Punch
17. Champagne Charlotte
18. The Yucca Flats
19. American Spirit
20. The Morning After
… And Making Merry
21. A Happy Enchilada
22. Table Talk
23. Shellfish Chic
24. Weddings, Royal and Otherwise
25. A Pilgrim’s Progress
26. Visions of Sugarplums
27. Green Day
28. Catching Summer
Index
Also by Julia Reed
About the Author
Copyright