by Linda Finlay
‘I know, but when she came into the shop, she only pointed to the window. She didn’t actually look at the bonnet, did she?’
‘I’m sorry, Rowan, I’m not sure I take your point,’ Louisa said.
‘If she only spotted it from her carriage, she would have seen just the front view. She didn’t study it closely or try it on, did she? Were you to cover the Lady Anna bonnet in the same colours and trim it with those pink and white ribbons, it would look suitably like the one in the window. Mrs Crawford tried hers on so she knows what hers will look like, but with the change of ribbons we discussed. If we were also to change the colour of that bit around the face on hers, they’d look completely different from the front, wouldn’t they?’
‘The underbrim, you mean? Yes, I can picture what you say. Well, that might just solve our problems,’ Louisa said, giving Rowan a warm smile. Relief flooded through her but her employer was already back in business mode. ‘Come along, Miss Rowena, I fear we have a long night ahead of us.’ Louisa was already getting to her feet. ‘You are about to get an instant master class in millinery.’
Throughout that long night as the candles burned lower in their sticks, they sewed, pleated and frilled until finally the two bonnets were completed. As Louisa sat back and studied them carefully, Rowan held her breath. After all the trouble she’d caused, it would be dreadful if her employer found her stitching wanting.
‘Well, Miss Rowena,’ she finally proclaimed, with a weary smile. ‘I think we have created two suitably diverse May Day bonnets that I hope will pass muster. Fingers crossed we get away with our little subterfuge or my reputation will be in shreds.’ She stifled a yawn, as she carefully packed them into two hatboxes lined with the softest tissue paper. As her signature scent wafted around the workroom, Rowan tried not to yawn herself. ‘Right, I’m going to snatch a few hours’ sleep before our work is put to the test,’ Louisa announced, getting to her feet.
‘I’ll clear up in here,’ Rowan said, pointing to the table, which was strewn with scraps of material, ribbons and equipment.
‘One thing I feel I have to say before I go,’ Louisa said, her voice so stern Rowan’s heart lurched. Was she going to be fired for her mistake, even after working so hard tonight? ‘What is the one thing you must never forget?’
‘Never place a bonnet that has been sold back in the window,’ Rowan said.
‘Yes, and you must also remember the secrets of the milliner stay in the workroom. With any luck, both ladies will be so delighted with their creations it will never occur to them they have had the material pulled over their eyes,’ Louisa said, her own eyes twinkling with amusement. ‘Now you go and get some rest, too. You can clear this little lot away whilst I am out on my appointments. That’s after you’ve made a replacement hat for the window.’
‘What?’ Rowan shrieked.
‘Just my little joke, Miss Rowena,’ Louisa said, laughing as she left the workroom.
Despite not getting to bed until the early hours, Rowan was up at first light. A legacy from her life on the farm, she thought, wondering how her father and Sab were faring. Father should have received her letter by now and she hoped she’d receive a reply soon. Splashing her face with water from the jug Maria had left on the washstand, she dressed quickly and hurried downstairs and out to the yard. The privy was clean and quite serviceable, but as she watched the huge dark spiders scuttling up the walls to their webs that festooned the corners, she was glad she wasn’t afraid of them.
Snatching up the broom, she hurried through the entry to sweep the pavement outside. Louisa was placing another elegant bonnet, this one of rose and gold, on its stand in the window, and she nodded in greeting. Obviously, Rowan was forgiven for her faux pas of the previous day. Goodness, she was beginning to think in French like her employer now.
‘Good morning, Miss Rowena,’ her employer trilled as she appeared in the shop. ‘Have you eaten yet?’
‘No, I thought I’d better tidy up the workroom first,’ Rowan said, although her stomach was rumbling like a cart over cobbles.
‘I appreciate your diligence, but after your long night’s work your body needs sustenance. Maria has made a pot of porridge so go and help yourself. When you’ve eaten, I will instruct you on what’s to be done in my absence.’
Feeling better after breaking her fast, Rowan hurried back to the shop with renewed energy and enthusiasm.
‘Now, Miss Rowena,’ Louisa said, ‘whilst I am out I would like you to tidy up the workroom and then label the ribbons with your flower names. It’s occurred to me that we need to ensure we always call them by the same name, or confusion could occur.’
‘How shall I know what names you want to use?’ Rowan asked, eager to get everything right today.
‘As you are familiar with the vernacular names, such as you have been using, I will be quite happy to go along with those you choose. It will be good for you to assume responsibility from the beginning of your apprenticeship, Miss Rowena, and I have the utmost faith in your abilities,’ Louisa said, smiling.
‘What, after my faux pas yesterday?’ Rowan asked.
Louisa gave one of her tinkling laughs. ‘I’m impressed by the way you’re using French expressions. I think it lends an air of sophistication and we should work well together,’ she said.
Rowan smiled, not feeling it necessary to let on she only knew what Louisa had taught her.
‘As for yesterday, well, we all make mistakes. The thing to do is learn from them and move on. Now I shall deliver Mrs Crawford’s bonnet and then call upon Miss Carruthers. If I have time to deliver it before noon, I will call back to collect Lady Arlingham’s bonnet. Otherwise, it will have to wait until later this afternoon, after social visiting has finished.’
‘Social visiting?’ Rowan asked.
‘Yes, between the hours of noon and three the ladies of Saltmouth pay their daily visits. Call upon their neighbours and friends,’ Louisa elaborated, seeing Rowan’s blank look.
‘You mean they stay for three whole hours?’ she asked.
Louisa laughed. ‘No, silly. They stay for precisely fifteen minutes per visit and then move on to their next point of call.’
‘But supposing they are halfway through a sentence when their time is up?’ Rowan asked, frowning.
This time Louisa’s laugh was louder. ‘That would hardly be socially acceptable. No, these ladies have got their etiquette down to a fine art. I understand they merely pass the time of day with small talk.’
‘Well, it sounds stupid to me. Why don’t they all get together in one house and save all that moving around?’
‘I can’t say I disagree with your sentiment. However, that’s how society works in Saltmouth, and it pays our business to respect this. Personally I find these quiet hours the perfect time to catch up on my bonnet making. Now, whilst I am away, please deal with any client politely and efficiently. Take a note of their name, address and requirements in that red book on the counter. Tell them Madame Louisa will call upon them to fulfil their order as soon as she returns,’ she said, gathering up her workbag and hatbox. Rowan hurried to open the door for her employer, nerves flitting like butterflies in her stomach. Did Louisa really think she could manage the shop in her absence?
She busied herself tidying the workroom and then, in her neatest handwriting, began penning the labels for the ribbons, as Louisa had instructed. Gradually, as she became absorbed in her task, her nerves subsided and she began to enjoy herself. She was just deliberating between buttercup and primrose for the shiny yellow, when the shop bell tinkled. Smoothing down her apron, she hurried through the dividing curtain.
‘Well, hello there. And who do we have here?’ a smartly dressed gentleman boomed in a voice far too loud for the small room. He stood there for a full moment, blatantly eyeing her up and down. With his brown hair, short legs and portly stomach protruding from his waistcoat, he reminded Rowan of a weasel from the woods.
‘Good morning, sir. How may I be of help?’ Rowan asked, will
ing her own voice not to squeak.
‘Amos Acland at your service, my dear,’ he boomed, doffing his top hat. ‘I have called by to see that daughter of mine, Louisa.’
‘I’m afraid Madame Louisa is out visiting a client. May I give her a message?’ Rowan enquired, hoping to keep his visit as short as possible.
‘Madame Louisa, eh?’ he laughed. ‘And what may I call you, young lady?’
‘Miss Rowena, sir,’ she said. ‘Madam is likely to be some time so if you’d like to state your business, I shall, of course, see that she gets your message.’
‘If I were to tell you what I’d like my business to be, it would bring a blush to that pretty little face of yours,’ he smirked.
Rowan shuddered and took a step backwards. Surely sweet Mrs Acland couldn’t be married to this insidious little creep? But then, he had said he was Louisa’s father. With great difficulty, she fought down the urge to slap the sickly smile off his shiny face. Taking a deep breath, she forced a smile.
‘Your message, sir?’ she asked, pleased to hear her voice sounded firmer this time.
‘Don’t worry, Miss Rowena. I shall call again – very soon,’ he added, his grey-blue eyes glittering. Then, with another doff of his hat, he went out to his carriage, which was drawn up outside.
With her legs trembling, Rowan collapsed on to the chair. What a truly obnoxious man. She couldn’t believe he was married to the refined Mrs Acland, or that he was father of the gentlemanly Alexander and ladylike Louisa. Then she remembered what Louisa had said about his philandering ways and shuddered. The tinkling of the bell roused her from her reverie. Jumping to her feet, she pasted on a smile and then nearly groaned aloud when she saw Mrs Parker bustling through the door.
‘Was that Mr Acland’s carriage I saw leaving?’ she asked, her eyes bright with curiosity.
‘Good morning, Mrs Parker, how may I help you?’ Rowan asked, ignoring the question.
The woman glanced around the shop. ‘Is Madame Louisa not here?’
‘Not unless she’s hiding in a hatbox,’ Rowan said. Then, not wanting the woman to think she was being rude, she smiled. ‘Sorry, Mrs Parker, just my little joke.’
‘Well, I’m not daft, dear. She would never fit inside one, would she?’
Rowan raised her eyebrows. It was going to be a long morning.
‘Anyway, not to worry, I’ll call another time,’ Mrs Parker said, pausing to look at the bonnet in the window. ‘I think that one is far more tasteful than the one Mrs Crawford has purchased. All those pink and white ribbons will do nothing for her complexion,’ she said, grinning gleefully, as she bustled out of the shop again.
Clearly Mrs Crawford hadn’t chosen to share the fact that she was having the colours of her ribbons changed, Rowan thought, smiling as she took herself back to the workroom and resumed her task. Having neatly labelled the rolls of ribbons, she then arranged them on the shelves in their colour bands. She had just finished and was admiring her handiwork when Louisa appeared in a rustle of petticoats. Placing her workbag on the work table, she turned to look at Rowan.
‘Everything all right, Miss Rowena?’ she asked. Rowan thought again how elegantly presented her employer was in her sapphire dress with its pin-tucked bodice and dome-shaped skirts. Her bonnet, with its toning ties and single egret feather, tastefully completed the ensemble. Rowan wondered if she could ever achieve such a sophisticated appearance. Probably not, with her mop of copper curls to manage, she decided.
‘Has anything upset you, Rowan? You look, I don’t know, quite remote somehow,’ her employer said, forgetting her shop title as she gave her a searching look.
‘Everything’s fine,’ Rowan reassured her.
‘I see you have taken it upon yourself to rearrange my ribbons as well as labelling them,’ Louisa frowned.
‘I just thought they looked more harmonious arranged in their contrasting colours but I can change it back if you don’t like it,’ Rowan replied quickly.
‘No, it’s all right. I agree they are far more pleasing to the eye like that. Obviously, I need to get used to someone else having a say around here,’ Louisa said with a laugh that didn’t quite reach her eyes. ‘Now then, have we had any clients this morning?’
‘Only two … well, that is, not clients exactly. There was Mr Acland and then as soon as he left, Mrs Parker came in.’
Louisa raised her eyebrows. ‘Did Father leave a message?’
Rowan shook her head.
‘And did, by some miracle, Mrs Parker decide to purchase anything?’
Rowan shook her head again.
‘Well, I have had a productive morning. I am pleased to report that Mrs Crawford was delighted with her bonnet. She was singing your praises, I can tell you. Miss Carruthers, being of the old school, requires a mantua in a traditional style. I have measured, cut and pinned it, and brought it back for you to sew up,’ Louisa said, drawing out a length of drab from her bag.
‘What a dreadful colour,’ Rowan said, grimacing at the dull yellow-brown material.
‘It’s what the client wants, Miss Rowena, and probably more to the point, what she can afford. It’s not for us to question, and it is business, after all,’ her employer pointed out. Rowan nodded and pulled up the high stool. ‘As you can see from the shape, Miss Carruthers wanted it fitted above the waist with the open front and draped skirt,’ Louisa continued, raising her eyebrows. ‘You merely need to follow the pins and use this matching thread,’ she added, holding up a reel. ‘I did have the temerity to suggest a bow on the front but was met with a stony glare.’
Rowan laughed. She could just imagine the timid woman’s reaction to even the tiniest show of frivolity.
‘Now, if I hurry, I shall just have time to see if Lady Arlingham approves of her bonnet,’ she said, picking up the other hatbox.
As the workroom fell silent, Rowan bent her head over her work. Although the drab was dull in the extreme, it was at least softer than the material of the uniform dresses in the asylum. Glancing around the well-equipped workroom, she couldn’t help contrasting it to the sewing room in that dreadful place. She thought of Susan and her baby, and hoped they were at peace. Her fate was a tragic thing to have happened to such a vivacious girl in the prime of life, but at least, as Mrs Acland had pointed out, she had died thinking her Charlie was coming for her.
Carefully, she followed the line that Louisa had pinned, and before long was absorbed in her sewing. If she concentrated she would have it finished before her employer returned, she thought, finishing one seam and picking up the scissors to snip off the thread.
‘Well, hello there!’ a loud voice boomed, making her jump, so that instead of merely cutting the thread she sliced clean through the material.
As she stared from the ruined mantua up into the florid face of Mr Acland, the ribbon around her wrist tightened.
CHAPTER 28
‘Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear,’ Mr Acland’s voice boomed so loudly the hand glass on the shelf vibrated. ‘It would appear you’ve got a problem, Miss Rowena,’ he smirked, moving closer.
Her ribbon gripped her wrist even tighter.
‘But you frightened me half to death,’ Rowan sobbed, staring down at the ruined material in dismay. As luck would have it, she’d cut right through the front of the mantua. Why couldn’t it have been at the bottom? she thought. It was the first sewing job Louisa had entrusted her with and she was bound to be furious. Would she deduct the money for the material from her wage? Or worse still, sack her so she had no wage at all? Her employer had been quite tolerant of her mistake yesterday, but then no actual damage had been done.
‘Don’t look so worried, my lovely,’ Mr Acland crooned, sidling right up to her. ‘You are young and inexperienced. Why don’t you let me show you …’ he began.
Unable to bear his close proximity, she jumped to her feet. ‘Please leave me alone,’ she cried. The smell of his heavy cologne was overpowering and she glanced around, seeking some way to escape.
‘Now then, whatever would dear Madame Louisa say if she found out her apprentice hadn’t heard the bell? After all, she did leave you in charge of her shop in her absence, didn’t she?’ he asked, his eyes narrowing. ‘Still, there’s no need for her to find out if you …’ He stuttered to a halt as a figure appeared in the doorway.
‘Father,’ Louisa spat, two red spots burning her cheeks.
‘Louisa, my dear, what a lovely surprise. I thought you’d gone out,’ he said smoothly.
‘Luckily for Rowan, I had to return for something,’ she said, placing the hatbox on the work table. ‘When I saw your carriage outside and nobody in the shop, I guessed you were up to no good. What do you think are you doing here in my workroom, Father?’ As she stood there, hands on hips, staring glacially at him, he gave a little laugh and edged away from Rowan.
‘I was protecting your interests, my dear. You want to be more careful; a thief could have crept in and stolen all your beautiful bonnets. Your new little apprentice here failed to hear the shop bell. When nobody came to attend to me, I came through to make sure everything was all right. Miss Rowena was obviously daydreaming,’ he said, smirking at Rowan.
Her heart plummeted. It was true. She’d been so engrossed in her work she hadn’t heard the bell tinkle.
‘Rowan, it’s time for your luncheon. Go and see what Maria’s made for us today,’ Louisa ordered sternly. With a last glance at the ruined material, Rowan got to her feet and fled the room.
‘Blimey, girl, you looks like you seen a ghost. Why, you’re shaking,’ Maria said when she saw Rowan standing in the kitchen doorway. ‘Go and sit at the table and I’ll bring you in a bowl of hot broth. That’ll put some colour in you.’
For the second time in as many minutes, Rowan did as she’d been told, and moments later the maid appeared carrying a tray. Giving Rowan a searching look, she set the steaming bowl and a plate of bread on the table.