A SORT OF SEQUEL TO
DRIVING OVER LEMONS
AND
A PARROT IN A PEPPER TREE
WITH AUTHOR INTERVIEW
THANKS
The longer I live the more I realise how much we depend upon one another to do everything. All the usual suspects know who they are, and I hope they are aware of my gratitude, but just in case… 1001 thanks to Nat Jansz, my miraculously understanding and skilful editor, without whom this book would not have been possible, and to Mark Ellingham, publisher and long-time friend. MOROCCO wouldn’t be half as nice without the hospitality and generosity of Mohammed Benghrib. In Spain, José Guerrero remains a constant source of inspiration and fun; Matias Morales and Manolo del Molinillo keep me rooted, and continue to show me how to get things done; Fernando and Jesús of Nevadensis (www.nevadensis.com) have got me out of more tricky situations than they’ve got me into; Michael Jacobs makes me laugh and think; Paco Sánchez and José Pela have been the finest tertúlia companions; my sisters Carole and Fiona have been sterling supporters; and above all I owe everything to Ana and Chloë, who live these books with me, and are always there when I need a little comfort and joy.
In addition, CHRIS STEWART AND SORT OF BOOKS thank our invaluable design and production team: Peter Dyer, Henry Iles, Nikky Twyman, Miranda Davies, and to Paul Nobbs at Clays.
BLACK AND WHITE PHOTOS by David Aspinall, Chloë Stewart, John Mullen, Mark Ellingham, Nevadensis, Pepe Vílchez, James McConnachie, Carl Sandeman and Chris Stewart.
CONTENTS
Title Page
THANKS
Maps
PROLOGUE: ON CLOSER EXAMINATION OF A DUNG BEETLE
THE BOSTONIANS
FENCING FOR BEGINNERS
A TEENAGE FROG HUNT
GUESTS WITHOUT PAPERS
GRANADA WELCOMES
AUTHENTICITY WILL OUT
GRAHAM GREENE AND THE COBRAS
SACKFULS OF TREASURE
CASA & CAMPO
ALL ABOUT OLIVES
SALAD DAYS
STEPS AND WATERFALLS
THE ALMOND BLOSSOM APPRECIATION SOCIETY
THE WAVE OF COLD
SUMMONED BY BELLS
A COUPLE OF PRIMATES
AUTHOR INTERVIEW
Copyright
PROLOGUE
ON CLOSER EXAMINATION OF A DUNG BEETLE
AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS YEAR, my daughter Chloë and I decided that we had to get fit, and that the best way to do this would be to create a running track in the riverbed. We go there every evening now and our pounding feet have marked out a fairly clear circuit.
The grass is long and makes a pleasant thripping noise as you race along, and in spring the ground is sprinkled with dandelions and daisies which grow so dense that, through half-shut eyes, you might be running through a field of cream. The track, however, remains just a bit too rustic for a good sprint. You have to be careful to hop over the thistles, skip to avoid an ankle-cracker of a stone, and cut in close to the gayomba, or Spanish broom, on the third turn, while ducking your head to avoid a poke in the eye. The second turn is between the third and fourth euphorbia bush and the start and finish is at the tamarisk tree where we hang our sweaters, and afterwards, if it’s sunny, rest in the wispy shade. The going is soft sandy turf and sheep turds.
As we returned from our run the other night Chloë called me excitedly to the gate: ‘Quick, Dad! Come and have a look at this!’ I turned back and looked where she was pointing. There, battling its way across the track was a dung beetle doing what dung beetles do, rolling a ball of dung. I was instantly captivated: a dung beetle is one of the great sights of the insect world, the determination and purpose of its Sisyphean labour putting you in mind of the crazed industry of ants, except that Scarabaeus semipunctatus operates in pairs or alone.
This particular beetle had lost its jet-black shine under a thick covering of dust. It was steering the ball with its back legs, while it scrabbled for purchase with its horny front legs. Progress was unthinkably difficult as the ground was rough, and, of course, it was quite unable to see where it was going, head down, facing away from the desired direction of travel, with a huge ball of shit in the way. The ball kept going out of control and rolling over the poor creature, yet without so much as a moment to dust itself down, the beetle picked itself up and patiently resumed rolling on its intended course. Chloë and I marvelled at its dogged persistence, and felt sorry for it, and tried to suppress our giggles when the dung ball rolled over it time and again.
Now the presence of a dung beetle in our valley is a matter of some symbolic importance, being a direct result of our policy not to worm the sheep more than absolutely necessary. The sheep are fine; they have a few intestinal parasites – all such organisms do – but they live with them in a reasonably harmonious symbiotic state and as a result produce dung that’s safe enough for the humble beetle to deposit its eggs in.
I know about this because I once had the privilege of chatting with a world expert on dung beetles – Jan Krikken, a Dutch entomologist whom I happened to bump into one afternoon in the valley while he was staying in our neighbour’s cottage. He had been creeping along on all fours by the edge of our acequia, the irrigation channel, stopping from time to time to suck on his pooter – a strange device like a jamjar with two tubes sticking out of it, one with gauze at the end which you put in your mouth, and the other an open tube which you place above an insect under study. By giving the first a spirited suck, the specimen is whooshed painlessly and undamaged (if a little surprised) into the jamjar to be examined at leisure. Suck on the second, however, and the surprise is all yours.
Dr Krikken had been employed some years earlier by the Australian government to reintroduce dung beetles after decades of excessive sheep worming had all but eradicated them. There was a fear that without the beetles’ help in rolling and burying the dung, it would fail to decompose and the continent would become caked in a mat of excrement. Fortunately, he had been able to save the Antipodeans from this fate. ‘If you ever doubt the importance of organic farming,’ he suggested to me, ‘just spend some time looking at dung beetles.’
It seemed good advice, and I follow it as often as I can – and, indeed, here I was, head down and deep in contemplation. Yet, the longer I looked at our specimen, the more it seemed that something wasn’t quite right. I thought about it for a bit and then the full, astonishing truth dawned on me. ‘You know what, Chloë?’ I announced. ‘That ball is not a ball of dung at all. It’s a squash ball.’ I paused to let this dramatic revelation sink in.
‘What’s a squash ball?’ she asked.
‘Well, it’s a ball you play squash with.’
‘Yes, but what’s squash?’ she persisted, as any Spanish schoolgirl might.
‘It’s a game, where you hit a ball… with a racket… in a court… and it bounces off these three walls…’
It was at this point that I started to realise the utter fatuousness of my conjecture. The nearest squash court would probably be two hundred miles away in Marbella or Sotogrande. How, then, did a squash ball come to be rolling around in our valley propelled by a dung beetle? It made no sense. However, I’d got started on this tack now, and I wasn’t about to stop. I dug down deeper into my hole.
‘You see, Chloë,’ I continued, ‘this particular ball is just too perfect to be the work of a beetle. Look, it’s absolutely spherical and perfectly uniform in colour and texture. How is a creature as ungainly as that going to create a thing so perfect from a heap of sheep shit? You tell me that. It’s a rubber ball.’
Chloë looked closely at the beetle and its ball. ‘It’s dung, Dad. I’m sure it is. I
know dung when I see it.’ ‘No, it’s a rubber ball, child. And the awful thing is that, when this poor benighted bicho gets its ball home, after all that terrible effort, it’s going to find that it’s made of rubber and not dung, so it will neither be able to form it into a pear shape, scoop out a hollow and lay its eggs in it, which is what they do, nor eat it. It’s going to break its little heart.’
‘It’ll be alright, Dad. It’s dung, really,’ Chloë reassured me. ‘It’s not what you think it is. Its little heart will be fine.’
I had to differ. ‘No, Chloë, I know I’m right and I’m not just going to sit here and watch the poor thing being deceived like this. I’m going to take its ball away. At least then it will still have the time and energy to make itself a proper ball and get the job finished.’
Chloë was appalled. ‘Don’t do that, you can’t do that. The poor thing will be devastated if you take it.’
‘It’ll be a lot less so now than after all that futile effort of rolling the cussed thing home,’ I insisted.
‘Dad – don’t!’ cried Chloë, as I crouched down next to the insect and its ball.
But I, with my fifty years of experience of the world, was adamant. I reached out a hand to pick up the dusty squash ball… and my fingers sank into the soft dung.
‘Oh God, it is dung.’
‘I told you so. Now look what you’ve done! You’ve gone and ruined it.’
I looked at the once-perfect dung ball. It was split right open, the moist dung in the centre temptingly displayed. It looked like one of those delicious chocolate-dusted truffles, with a moist greenish filling. I tried to mould it back to its earlier shape, to emulate the beetle’s perfect craftsmanship, but to no avail.
‘Put it back, Dad. You’re only making it worse.’
I was filled with a terrible remorse. The tiny creature looked up at me disconsolately from way down on the ground. Chloë stared at me as if I were some sort of half-wit.
Gingerly I returned the squidged mound of dung to the beetle and straightened up. There was an awkward silence.
‘Why?’ I asked, falling back on a little wordplay to try and defuse the tension. ‘Why is a beetle called escarabajo in Spanish?’
‘What do you mean?’
‘Why is an escarabajo called escarabajo?’
‘I don’t know. I thought “scarab” was a really old name for beetles. Why do you ask?’
‘Because it’s es cara bajo – it’s face down.’
My daughter considered me thoughtfully for a moment, shook her head and set off up the hill to the house, no doubt to tell her mother.
THE BOSTONIANS
ONE OF THE GREAT CULTURAL CONTRIBUTIONS of Spain to the world is the carmen. Now a true carmen is an enclosed patio garden on the hill of the Albaicín in Granada, and to qualify for the name it must have a view of the Alhambra and the peaks of the Sierra Nevada beyond. Apart from that, a number of essential elements can be deployed more or less at random: these include grapevines, tall slender cypresses, orange and lemon trees, a persimmon or two, perhaps a pomegranate, and myrtle – whose scent was believed by the Moors to embody the very essence of love.
The surface of a carmen should be cobbled in the style known as el empedrado Granadino – a grey and white pattern, again devised by the Moors, using the river stones that occur in abundance throughout the province. There should also be a fountain and a pool and preferably a number of runnels and rills leading the water hither and thither in a fashion perfectly conceived to make you feel cool and contemplative on a hot summer’s day. If the thing has been done right, the interplay between light and shade, the mingling scents of the flowers and the chuckling of the water in its channels will induce a profound contentment and sense of peace as you wander the cobbled paths, perhaps hand in hand with a good friend, musing playfully, the pair of you, upon the mysteries of the universe.
If you are really fortunate, a nightingale will come and nest in your cypress tree and then the pleasure becomes sublime. But that can’t be counted on, so most carmen owners make do with a canary in a cage. I personally rather like the sound of caged canaries – it is one of the essentials of a Spanish street – but it hardly compares to the nightingales and, besides, the song of the caged bird should be more a source of distress than pleasure to sensitive, modern man.
Halfway up the Cuesta del Chápiz, between Sacromonte and the Albaicín, is the Carmen de la Victoria. Owned by the university, it is one of the prettiest carmenes in the city. I pushed open the gate and stood for a minute adjusting to the deep shade after the brightness of the street with its glaring white walls. I was passing through the city on the way home from a trip to Málaga, and had come here partly to visit the carmen – but mainly to see my friend Michael.
Michael Jacobs is an art historian, a writer, a traveller and a scholar and a formidable cook, as well as being one of the most entertaining people I know. Somewhere within the confines of the carmen he was holding court to a group of English tourists who had paid good money to be guided around the cultural monuments of Andalucía. Michael had doubtless dazzled them that morning with his erudition and somewhat unorthodox views on the Alhambra: he likes to point out that, given how much of the Moorish palace was rebuilt after a fire at the end of the nineteenth century, it is about as authentic as the Alhambra Palace Hotel down the hill. Now there would be a slack period while they wandered among the delights of the carmen, sinking a drink or two before lunch.
I came upon Michael pacing to and fro along a rose arbour, talking agitatedly on his mobile phone. He was gesticulating wildly and occasionally clapping his free hand to his head. Some catastrophe was clearly assailing him, as it tends to do, for he is a person who hovers happily on the very verge of chaos. An ordinary mortal’s carefully laid plans, meticulous organisation and unsurprising results would be hell for him – even if he were able to aspire to such a mode of existence.
I waited, sat on a bench and watched as two tiny white butterflies wove in and out of a trellis of dusty pink roses. At last Michael was finished. We embraced in a sort of manly Mediterranean bear hug – a gesture by which we seek to confound the stiffness of our Anglo-Saxon upbringings. ‘Ah yes, Chris… That’s w-wonderful… Just the man… It’s good you’re here, actually, because… W-would you like a beer, yes you must have a beer…’
We moved to the bar where I ordered a wine; I’ve never much liked Spanish beer. ‘Well, actually,’ resumed Michael, ‘what I was thinking w-was… have you ever been on one of those… it’s just that… I know there are people who… w-why don’t you?’ He was saved from having to commit himself to anything more substantial by the ringing of his phone. ‘Excuse me, Chris’ – he looked at the screen – ‘Ah, it’s Jeremy again. Ah… H-hallo, Jeremy… Yes Jeremy…’ There followed a conversation if possible even more inconclusive than the one I had just been involved in.
Michael has the energy, proportionate to his size, of an insect, and races about at great speed on unpredictable courses full of hesitations and volte-faces, but somehow manages to achieve a great deal, in much the same way, I suppose, as the insect does. He has published, I think, twenty-six books, and never more than three, he says happily, with the same publisher. And all these books are the sort of books for which you need to do immense quantities of research and have reams of arcane knowledge at your disposal. He forever has some new project on the boil. As well as his copious output he has the most terrifying capacity for drinking and socialising that I have ever encountered. He will stay out carousing in bars and knocking back gargantuan quantities of wine until four or five in the morning and then wake at seven to hurl himself into the next day with not the faintest trace of a hang-over. One imagines that an organism that receives such constant and merciless battering would soon fall to bits, but no – at fifty, Michael is as vital and lively as ever.
‘Ah yes… Chris, I’ve got a bit of a problem with this group… or not so much this group as another one. You see I’m… erm… double-boo
ked… well, not exactly double-booked but I was supposed to stay available in case the itinerary changed and it… erm… has, and I’m… erm… not…’ He looked decidedly sheepish. ‘I’m booked in to lecture to a whole load of college students instead. Jeremy’s having a nervous breakdown over it.’
‘Who’s Jeremy?’
‘Ah, Jeremy… you’d like Jeremy… Well, actually he’s quite a strange sort of person… Very… erm… organised.’
‘Yes, but who is he?’
‘Ah yes, well, Jeremy runs these tours for well-heeled Americans…’
‘Oh, I see now,’ I said, although in fact I didn’t.
‘As a matter of fact…’ said Michael, studying me with an odd intensity. ‘Yes, you could be. I mean, w-why not…?’ I returned the stare, as the meaning of Michael’s look and meandering words began to dawn on me. It was maybe a not very striking coincidence that we both happened to be wearing black jeans, white collarless shirts and black leather jackets that had seen better days. But the resemblance went beyond that. We both wore round glasses, both had thinning curly grey hair and rather rubicund complexions, and although Michael loomed half a head taller, we were of similar build.
Michael was by now smiling complacently, with the look of one who has resolved a mathematical conundrum. ‘You d-don’t by any chance fancy spending a few days in Seville do you, Chris?’ he asked, in a tone that seemed deliberately casual.
‘You mean, impersonating you – and taking round one of your groups?!’
‘Er… yes, that’s more or less what I had in mind.’
‘They’d rumble us. I mean I may look a bit like you and even dress a bit like you, but I know bugger all about art!’
‘Oh, that doesn’t matter a bit. I’ve got some books you can borrow right here in my bag and you’ve got all of the ones I’ve written on Andalucía. And there’s some pamphlets about the group, too – they’re inside the b-books.’
The Almond Blossom Appreciation Society Page 1