Essence and Alchemy

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by Mandy Aftel


  Index

  The index that appeared in the print version of this title does not match the pages of your eBook. Please use the search function on your eReading device to search for terms of interest. For your reference, the terms that appear in the print index are listed below.

  absolutes

  accessory notes

  Addison, Joseph

  Albini, Prospero

  Albret, Jeanne d’

  Alchemy (perfume)

  alcohol

  allergies

  Altenberg, Peter

  amber

  ambergris

  ambrette seed

  angelica

  animal essences

  Anne of Austria

  anointing

  aphrodisiacs; see also erotic scents

  Arctander, Steffen

  aromatherapy

  aromatics

  Ayers, Harriet Hubbard

  Aztecs

  Bachelard, Gaston

  balsam Peru

  base notes (bottom notes) ambrette seed animal balsamic costus earthy edible erotogenic green resinous sets of tobacco woody

  bath blends

  bath oil

  baths public scented solitary

  bath salts

  Baudelaire, Charles

  Bayley, William

  Beaux, Ernie

  Bedichek, Roy

  beeswax

  Benedict XIV, Pope

  Benjamin, Walter

  benzoin

  Berbers

  bergamot

  Bergson, Henri

  Bernhardt, Sarah

  Bible

  black pepper

  Bloch, Iwan

  blotters, perfume

  body notes

  body odor

  bois de rose

  Borgia

  boronia

  bottom notes, see base notes

  Brunschwig, Hieronymus

  Buddhists

  Burckhardt, Titus

  cabreuva

  Calvino, Italo

  Canoe

  cardamom

  Carles, Jean

  carriers

  Casanova, Giovanni Giacomo

  Castellus, Petrus

  cedarwood, Virginia

  chamois, scented

  chamomile, Roman

  champa

  Chanel, Coco

  Chanel No. 5

  Charabot, Eugene

  Charles I, King of England

  Chiris (perfume house)

  chords base heart top

  chrism

  Christian traditions

  chypres (commercial classification)

  cinnamon

  citrus (commercial classification)

  civet

  clary sage

  Classen, Constance

  Cleopatra, Queen of Egypt

  clove

  cognac essence

  Colette

  cologne

  color, perfume and

  commercial perfume industry

  complementary essences

  composition commercial categories and custom method of synesthesia and

  concretes

  coniunctio

  Cooley, Arnold

  Corbin, Alain

  coriander

  costus

  Coty, François

  couture, perfume and

  Cowper, William

  Daché, Lilly

  Dahl, Roald

  Davis, Esmé

  Descartes, René

  Diaghilev, Serge

  Dietrich, Marlene

  diffusion

  Diorissimo

  distillation

  Donovan (singer/composer)

  dryout notes

  East India Company

  Eau de Cologne

  edible blend

  Egyptians, ancient

  Elixir of Life

  Elizabeth I, Queen of England

  Ellis, Havelock

  enfleurage

  Enlightenment

  equipment

  erogenous blend (recipe)

  erotic scents see also aphrodisiacs

  Euripides

  expression

  extraction, solvent

  Farina, Johann

  fatigue, olfactory

  fecal odors

  Ficino, Marsilio

  fir

  fixation

  floral (commercial classification)

  floral essences see also specific flowers

  frankincense

  Franklin, Benjamin

  Freud, Sigmund

  Fritzsche Brothers

  galbanum

  Gamero, Jean, III

  genitalia, scent and

  geranium

  Gilchrist, Cherry

  ginger

  gloves, scented

  Graham, James

  grapefruit

  Greek mythology

  green (commercial classification)

  Guenther, Ernest

  Guerlain

  Haeffner, Mark

  Halpern, Daniel

  handkerchiefs, scented

  Harlow, Jean

  Hatshepsut, Queen of Egypt

  head notes (top notes) citrus dry flowery green sets of spicy

  heart notes (middle notes) fruity green light narcotic rosy sets of spicy

  Henry IV, King of France

  Hesse, Herman

  Hindu mythology

  Hunt, Roland

  Huysmans, Joris-Karl

  indol

  International Flavors and Fragrances

  International Fragrance Association (IFRA)

  jasmine

  Jellinek, Paul

  Jellinek, Stephan

  Jews, ancient

  Jicky

  Josephine, Empress of France

  Jung, Carl

  Kant, Immanuel

  Keller, Helen

  Kirlian photography

  Krishna

  Kundera, Milan

  kyphi

  labdanum

  Lalique, René

  lavender

  Lawless, Julia

  leather, scented

  Le Guérer, Annick

  lemon

  Lengyel, Laszlo

  life force

  Lillie, Charles

  limbic lobe

  lime

  literature: on art of perfumery olfactory

  litsea cubeba

  Louis XIV, King of France

  love potions

  Mallory, Thomas

  Maple, Eric

  Martial

  Maupassant, Guy de

  Medici, Catherine de

  Medici, Cosimo di

  meditatio

  meditation

  meditation blend

  memory, odor and

  menstruation

  Michelspacher

  middle notes, see heart notes

  Miller, Henry

  Miller, Iona

  Miller, Richard

  Miranda, Carmen

  Mumford, Ethel Watts

  music, perfume and see also chords

  musk

  Muslims

  Napoléon, Emperor of France

  National Geographic (magazine)

  Nero, Emperor of Rome

  neroli

  Newton, Isaac

  nutmeg

  oakmoss

  oils: carrier essential, definition of sacred see also specific oils

  olfactory membrane

  Omar Khayyam (perfume)

  orange: bitter blood sweet

  orange flower

  oriental (commercial classification)

  Orissa tribe

  ouroboros

  packaging

  Paracelsus

  Parliament, English

  Passy, Jacques

  patchouli

  Pavlova, Anna

  Peau d’Espagne

  pepper, black

  Peru balsam

  petitgrain

  pheromones

&n
bsp; Philosopher’s Stone

  philosophy, alchemical

  Piesse, Septimus

  Plath, Sylvia

  Plato

  Pliny

  Poiret, Paul

  Polycarp, St.

  Pope, Alexander

  Poppaea

  pregnancy

  Proust, Marcel

  Quelques Fleurs

  Quest International

  quinta essentia

  quintessence

  Ramses II, Pharaoh of Egypt

  René (perfumer)

  resins

  Rilke, Rainer Maria

  Rimmel, Eugene

  Roman chamomile

  Romans, ancient

  Rondoletia

  rosaries

  rose

  Rose Jacqueminot, La

  rosewood

  Roudnitska, Edmond

  Rovesti, Paolo

  safety precautions

  sage, clary

  sandalwood

  scent classification commercial erotic see also base notes; head notes; heart notes

  scent strips, see blotters, perfume

  Schiaparelli

  Schimmel and Company

  Schwartz-Salant, Nathan

  Sendivogius, Michael

  sensuality, scent and see also erotic scents

  Shakespeare, William

  smell, sense of how to train

  solid perfume see also unguents

  Soliman, Ahmed

  solutio

  spearmint

  spirituality and fragrance

  Steele, Richard

  Stoddart, Michael

  storage of essences

  sublimatio

  supplies sources for

  Suskind, Patrick

  Swift, Jonathan

  synesthesia

  synthetic essences

  tangerine

  tarragon

  Taylor, F. Sherwood

  thalamus

  Tisserand, Robert

  tobacco

  top notes: an essence’s first perceptible scent as heart notes

  Tutankhamen

  Umeda tribe

  unguents

  vanilla

  vetiver

  Virginia cedarwood

  volatility

  vomeronasal organ

  Wells, H. G.

  White Shoulders

  Whitman, Walt

  Wilde, Oscar

  Wildwood, Christine

  Yanomamö tribe

  ylang ylang

  First printing, 2001

  North Point Press

  A division of Farrar, Straus and Giroux

  19 Union Square West, New York 10003

  Copyright © 2001 by Mandy Aftel

  All rights reserved

  © Gibbs Smith, 2008

  Gibbs Smith,

  P. O. Box 667

  Layton, UT 84041

  Orders: 1-800-748-5439

  www.gibbs-smith.com

  eISBN 9781429936125

  First eBook Edition : April 2011

  Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

  Aftel, Mandy.

  Essence and alchemy : a book of perfume / Mandy Aftel.

  p. cm.

  Includes bibliographical references and index.

  ISBN 0-86547-553-9 (first edition)

  ISBN 13: 978-1-58685-702-8 (new edition)

  1. Perfumes. I. Title.

  TP983 .A72 2001

  668′.54—dc21

 

 

 


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