HOTEL
1 604 00 00 www.hadrigan.com
Just as long as you are not expecting the Marriott, the facilities of this budget hotel should suit your stay in the city just fine. The rooms are cleaner and fresher than the common spaces, with new coats of paint and simple decorations for a homey feel. Ignore the faux-oriental rugs in the hallways and the dim lighting and focus on the clean sheets and comfy pillows.
U3: Ottakring. Singles €40-64; doubles €44-69; family rooms (3-4 beds) €64-99. Reception 24hr.
HOTEL GEBLERGASSE
Geblergasse 21
HOTEL
1 406 33 66 www.geblergasse.com
While the lobby and common spaces have seen better years, the newly renovated rooms are surprisingly crisp, clean, and very white—white sheets, white walls, white curtains. The location is a toss-up: there is a sex shop around the corner, but it’s also within close distance to public transportation and you will not be bothered by noise or traffic at night.
U6: Alser Str. Free Wi-Fi, safe and TV in room. All rooms ensuite. Singles €34-89; doubles €49-99; family rooms (3-6 beds) €79-139. Parking €9 per day. Rates vary greatly, so check website. Reception 24hr.
PENSION ELIZABETH
Holochergasse 17
PENSION, APARTMENTS
1 983 56 34
These apartment-style rooms are quite off the beaten track; you are literally staying in extra rooms in a residential apartment building a good 10 blocks beyond Westbahnhof. Instead of any cohesive decor scheme, rugs, refrigerators, leftover beds, and mismatched dining furniture seem haphazardly thrown together to furnish these sometimes cramped or oddly shaped spaces. There won’t be the opportunity to meet other travelers here because the rooms are entirely self-sufficient, and at most you will share a kitchenette or bathroom with one other room.
U3 or U6: Westbahnhof. Exit from the upper platform, then turn left on Felberstr. Turn right on Holochergasse (it will be after the 2nd bridge on your left). Rooms must be rented by the room, not bed. Ring bell. 2- to 6-bed rooms €19.50-29 per person.
SIGHTS
Inner City
STEPHANSDOM
Stephanspl.
CHURCH
1 515 52 35 26 www.stephanskirche.at
Monolithic by day and ethereal by night, this Gothic masterpiece is one of Vienna’s must-see sights. Its massive towers and colorful tiled roof depicting the Hapsburg crown punctuate the city skyline, dwarfing the plaza and people below. Inside, the high-vaulted ceilings and arches offer a somber darkness, broken only by the rustling of tourists and their cameras. You can enter the cathedral at the back for free, while the €3 ticket will get you up close to the nave and stone-carved pulpit.
U1 or U3: Stephanspl. Church admission €3, with audioguide €4.90. Catacomb tour €4.50, children €1.50. Tower and bell €4.50/1.50. All-inclusive ticket €14.50, students €12. Church open M-Sa 6am-10pm, Su 7am-10pm. Bell and tower open daily 8:15am-4:30pm. Tours M-Sa 9-11:30am and 1-4:30pm, Su 1-4:30pm.
ALBERTINA
Albertinapl. 1
MUSEUM, STATE ROOMS
1 534 830 www.albertina.at
A ticket to the Albertina grants you access to all the impressive museum floors in addition to a series of plush state rooms (which are, dare we say, nicer than the main Hofburg complex, and far less crowded). The permanent art collection on the top floor encompasses all the modern art greats, including Degas, Picasso, Miro, and Kandinsky, to name just a few. The remaining exhibits rotate every few months, and temporary exhibits on Picasso, Michaelangelo’s drawings, and South African artist William Kentridge will be presented through early 2011.
U1 or U3: Stephanspl. Or U1, U2, or U4: Karlspl. Adults €9.50. Seniors and Vienna card holders €8, under 19 free. Audioguide €4. Open M-Tu 10am-6pm, W 10am-9pm, Th-Su 10am-6pm.
NATIONALBIBLIOTHEK/STATE HALL
Josefpl. 1
LIBRARY
1 534 10394 www.onb.ac.at
Bookworms should not miss this stunning Baroque library, one of the most beautiful historical libraries in the world. Commissioned by Emperor Charles VI, the library has double-story nutwood bookcases, marble statues, rose-and-cream marble floors and pillars, and pastel ceiling frescoes that stretch to every corner. Today, the library holds over 200,000 volumes that can still be accessed in the adjacent reading room and also has two temporary displays per year that focus on some bookish theme; the exhibit at the time of research explored “Intercultural Dialogue in Old Writings” and displayed magnificent manuscripts in Hebrew, Arabic, Greek, and Latin. Warning: you might have to get a neck massage afterward from all the craning to look up.
U1, U2, or U4: Karlspl. Or U3: Herrengasse. €7, students €4.50. Open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-9pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
HOFBURG PALACE
Heldenpl.
MUSEUM, IMPERIAL APARTMENTS
1 533 75 70 www.hofburg-wien.at
A visit inside the Hofburg consists of three parts: the Imperial Silver Collection, a museum about Empress Elisabeth, and the Imperial Apartments where Franz Joseph and Elisabeth lived. The Silver Collection is an extensive display of cutlery, plates, bowls, and centerpieces—gold, silver, porcelain—in every shape, size, and design imaginable. In this portion of the museum, the audioguide is particularly helpful (and concise) at guiding visitors through what would otherwise be one packed display case after the next. The Sisi Museum then delves into the life of Empress Elisabeth Sisi, from her childhood to tragic death, with artifacts and stunning replicas of her gowns and jewels. Finally, the Imperial Apartments, the most interesting part of the Palace, you can see where Franz worked, slept, and ate and even where Elisabeth bathed.
U3: Herrengasse. Or, U2 or U3: Volkstheater, then Tram #1 or 2. Audioguide free with entrance ticket. Tickets for each sight €10, students €9, ages 6-18 €6. Sisi Ticket (entrance to all 3 Hofburg venues plus the Furniture Collection and Schonbrunn Palace) €22.50, students €20, ages 6-18 €13.50, family (2 adults, 3 children) €47. Tours €2.50, children €1. Open daily July-Aug 9am-6pm; Sept-June 9am-5:30pm.
KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM
Maria Theresien-Pl.
MUSEUM
1 525 240 www.khm.at
This stunning building houses the city’s most extensive and impressive collection of work, including art from the 15th to 19th centuries, Greek and Roman antiquities, one of the five largest coin cabinets in the world), and halls of Egyptian and Near Eastern works. Start at the picture galleries so you don’t run out of steam, and pace yourself—Room X, devoted to Bruegel’s works, is worth spending some time in. Don’t miss the Rembrandt self-portraits and Canaletto’s cityscapes, the latter of which elegantly show how much the city has changed.
U2 or U3: Volkstheater, Tram #1, 2, D. Adults €12, with Vienna card €11, students under 27 €9, under 19 free. Open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-9pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
STADTPARK
PARK
Main entrance from Johannesgasse
Nestled into the Ringstr., this large green space filled with benches, walkways, and statues of musicians (10 points for spotting the gilded Johann Strauss) beckons to all on summer afternoons. Enter through the stone collonades, then wander until you find the perfect spot for reading or a picnic. Drool from afar at Vienna’s most acclaimed restaurant, Steierereck, where a meal will set you back over €100, and avoid the Kursalon, whose nightly dinner-music deals ooze tourist tackiness.
U4: Stadtpark or U3: Stubentor, Tram #1 or 2. Free. Open 24hr.
SECESSION
Friedrichstr. 12
EXHIBITION HALL
587 53 07 www.secession.at
This square building with a golden laurel-leaf dome will certainly catch your eye as you wander through the Naschmarkt and Karlspl. area. The inside spaces are used for rotating art exhibits (check the current program online), but most people go just to see the basement room housing Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze. Said to be an interpretation of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony, it depicts mankind
’s search for happiness on three walls of the rectangular room.
U1, U2, or U4: Karlspl. €5 (groups of 8 or more €4 per person), students and seniors €4 (groups of 8 or more €2.50 per person). Tours €1.50. Open Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
FRANZISKANEKIRCHE
Franziskanerpl.
CHURCH
1 512 45 78 www.franziskaner.at
In a chill, charming, and cobblestoned plaza slightly hidden from tourist hordes at Stephanzpl., Franzikanerkirche is worth a quick visit and photo op. While the interior has two rows of ornate wooden pews, the church is perhaps best experienced from the outside. Sit in the square at the outdoor seating of Kleines Cafe and relish in the pale blue exterior and pretty fountain.
U1 or U3: Stephanspl. Free. Church guide booklet €4.70. Open daily 6:30am-5:30pm.
HAUS DER MUSIK
Seilerstätte 30
MUSEUM
1 513 48 50 www.hdm.at
The four floors of this interactive world of music could take 5hr. to fully explore. The journey begins with information about Vienna’s premier philharmonic orchestra, where you can watch (in HD) the previous year’s New Year’s Eve concert. In the Sonosphere (second floor), sound becomes the focus, as you learn about what we hear and how we hear it through electronic computer and headset stations. The third floor of “Great Composers” has cleverly arranged displays on the lives and work of the many musical geniuses who worked in Vienna. There is a free audio tour, but it is more of a joy to read the English placards with Beethoven, Mozart, or Haydn playing in the background. The final Futuresphere offers interactive sound games that kids will love.
U1, U2, or U4: Karlspl. €10, students €8.50, ages 3-12 €5.50. Combined ticket with Mozarthaus €15, children €7. Open daily 10am-10pm.
MAK (MUSEUM FUR ANGEWANDTE KUNST)
Stubenring 5
MUSEUM
1 711 360 www.mak.at
Antique junkies and architecture aficionados will love this museum’s brightly colored walls and hanging glass cases filled with everything from Venetian glassware and lace to architectural models of 20th- and 21st-century buildings. Klimt’s Stoclet Frieze is one of the few paintings in a museum otherwise devoted entirely to applied arts. The MAK also boasts one of the most famous and comprehensive collections of oriental carpets in the world.
U3: Stubentor, Tram #1 or 2. €8, students €5.50. Children and under 19 free. Family €11. Free for all Sa. Tours €2. Open Tu 10am-midnight, W-Su 10am-6pm. English tours Su noon.
BURGGARTEN
PARK
Entrance on Burgring
Because of the prime location amidst the Inner Stadt sights, this green space is most frequented by tourists sitting on benches and eating gelato. There is a Mozart statue with flowers in the shape of a treble clef, though you will have to sneak past the scalpers selling concert tickets to snap your photo. Stroll behind the Hofburg or drink coffee in the majestic Palmenhaus restaurant overlooking the park.
U1, U2, or U4: Karlspl.; Tram #1, 2, D. Free. Open daily dawn-dusk.
MOZARTHAUS
Domgasse 5
MUSEUM
1 512 17 91 www.mozarthausvienna.at
This apartment is the only surviving Mozart house, and was where the musical genius composed The Marriage of Figaro at the height of his wealth and fame. The first floor of the museum speculates how Mozart lived during his time there, and much of the building and surrounding streets remain as they were. The second and third floors focus on his life history and music, but unfortunately many of the displays don’t do the composer or his music justice. You might also find yourself wishing the audio tour had more of his music and less commentary.
U1 or U3: Stephanspl. From the stop, walk down Singerstr. and turn left on Blutgasse. Audio tour in English included with ticket price. €9, students and seniors €7. Combined ticket with Haus der Musik €15, children €7. Open daily 10am-7pm.
PETERSKIRCHE
Peterspl.
CHURCH
1 533 64 33 www.peterskirche.at
Established by the Fraternity of the Holy Trinity and supported by the Opus Dei (Da Vinci Code, anyone?), Peterskirche’s turquoise dome glows eerily, especially when illuminated at night. The soft beige-rose marble walls balance out the otherwise ornate interior and are accented by the royal purple curtains on the confessionals.
U1 or U3: Stephanspl. From the stop, head down Graben on the left. Free. Open M-F 7am-8pm, Sa-Su 9am-9pm. Free organ concerts M-F 3pm, Sa-Su 8pm.
JÜDISCHES MUSEUM (JEWISH MUSEUM)
Dorotheergasse 11
HISTORY MUSEUM
1 535 04 31 www.jmv.at
While the Jewish Museum has a wide collection of prayer books, scrolls, Torah curtains, and other artifacts—many of which are quite beautiful—the lengthy historical explanations might be a bit dry for those who aren’t obsessed with the past. The viewable storage area on the top floor has an impressive number of objects collected over the years from synagogues, prayer houses, and private homes.
U1 or U3: Stephanspl. From the stop, walk down Graben, then turn left on Dorotheergasse. €6.50, students €4. Open M-F 10am-6pm, Su 10am-6pm.
NATURHISTORISCHES MUSEUM
Burgring 7
NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM
1 521 77 www.nhm-wien.ac.at
Across from the Kunsthistorisches Museum, in an identically beautiful building, this natural-history museum has two floors that take the visitor on a journey from the beginning of the world and its lifeforms up until modern day. Fossils, mineral collections, and plenty of preserved amphibians floating in glass jars await, as do some impressively large skeletons of dinosaurs and whales. The breathtaking gem collection in Room IV is the most valuable gem collection on the continent, and includes a topaz weighing 250 lb.
U2 or U3: Volkstheater, Tram #1 or 2; bus 2A, 48A. €10, students €5, seniors €8, under 19 free. Guided tours €2.50. Scientific tours €6.50. Open M 9am-6:30pm, W 9am-9pm, Th-Su 9am-6:30pm. Tours to roof Su 3pm.
Core Districts
BELVEDERE
Prinz Eugen Str. 27 (Upper), Rennweg 6 (Lower)
MUSEUM, PALACE GARDENS
1 795 570 www.belvedere.at
The sweeping grounds of Schloß Belvedere house two magnificent museums, with Vienna’s best-known work of art, Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss. Oberes (Upper) Belvedere houses the Klimt collection as well as a magnificent spread of Beidermeier, Neoclassic, Medieval, and Baroque art arranged over three floors around the grand Marble Hall. From Oberes Belvedere, take a leisurely stroll through the gardens to Unteres (Lower) Belvedere, taking in the manicured hedges, fountains, and the views of Stephansdom and the city in the distance. Unteres Belvedere has rotating exhibits, one in the palace and another (usually contemporary) in the Orangery, accessed though the Marble Gallery and the Golden Room. There is a quiet, private garden in front of the Orangery with views back up to Oberes Belvedere and magnificent arrays of exotic flowers in the summer. On your way out, the multiple museum shops offer Klimt-printed everything—even teddy bears.
Tram #D, O, or 71. Unteres (Lower) Belvedere €9.50, seniors €7.50, students €7, under 18 free. Combined tickets (Unteres and Oberes) €14/11/10/free. Upper open daily 10am-6pm. Lower open M-Tu 10am-6pm, W 10am-9pm, Th-Su 10am-6pm.
KUNST HAUS WIEN
Untere Weißgerberstr. 13
MUSEUM
1 712 04 91 www.kunsthauswien.com
From an early age, school teachers noticed Friedensreich Hundertwaßer’s “unusual sense of color and form,” currently apparent in the building of the Kunst Haus Wien and all of his works within. The floor and pipes curve, the stairs are stacked with bright tiles and bits of mirror, and the house is filled with live “tree tenants,” making the KunstHaus a cartoonish, magical land. The first two floors of the museum contain Hundertwaßer’s spectacular works, with titles including Stokes, Splotches, and Heads and Who Has Eaten All My Windows? while the third floor is used for rota
ting exhibits.
U1 or U4: Schwedenpl. From the stop, Tram #1: Radetzkypl. €9, ages 11-18 €4.50, children under 10 free. M (except holidays) €4.50. Combination ticket (Kunsthaus and temporary exhibitions) €12, ages 11-18 €6. Open daily 10am-7pm.
KARLSKIRCHE
Karlspl.
CHURCH
1 504 61 87 www.karlskirche.at
One of Vienna’s most stunning churches, Karlskirche’s gleaming turquoise dome and two elaborately engraved columns reflect in the circular pool in Karlspl. Inside, the cream and pink marble is softly elegant. Take the glass elevator 35 meters up to admire the frescoes from mere feet away. You can also climb additional stairs up into the dome for (slightly obscured) views of the entire city.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 4