Upper Town
JACQUES BREL
30 rue de la Sablonnière
HOSTEL
02 218 01 87 www.laj.be
Surprisingly lively, Jacques Brel provides a modern bar and lounge in its reception area. Although the stairwell is a bit drab, the rooms are comfortable, priced for the student traveler, and not nearly as boring as the exterior suggests. Some of the rooms come with well-furnished ensuites, but be warned that some of the bigger dormitories may not be worth those couple of euros you’ll save. Right next to Le Botanique, one of Brussels’ most diverse concert spaces, and a 20min. walk from the Grand Place.
Botanique. Head south down rue Royale (away from Botanique) and take the 1st left. Breakfast and linens included. Free Wi-Fi and computer units in reception. Booking at least 4 weeks in advance is recommended. 6- to 14-bed dorms €16.40; 3- to 4-bed dorms €18.50. Singles €32; doubles €45. €2 extra for ages 26 and older. Reception daily 7am-midnight. Lockout noon-3pm. Code access after 1am.
BRUEGEL
Heilige Geeststraat 2
HOSTEL
02 522 04 36 www.youthhostels.be
Bruegel has one of the most important amenities a hostel can have: a brilliant bar. This hostel hangout looks like a watering hole you would find in the city center, and stays open until all the guests have gone to bed. Finish out your night with some dancing and karaoke. The rooms here are basic and decent-sized. Only some have ensuite bathrooms, but the communal bathrooms really aren’t that bad. Each of the three floors has a lounge or seating area with free Wi-Fi.
Gare Central. Head west along Bld. de l’Empereur. Bruegel is opposite the skate park. Linens provided. Free Wi-Fi. Some wheelchair-accesible rooms available upon request. 3- to 4-bed dorms €18.90. Singles €31; doubles €46. €1.20-4 extra for ages 26 and older. Reception 7-10am and 2pm-1am. Lockout 10am-2pm.
VINCENT VAN GOGH CENTER—CHAB
8 rue Traversière
HOSTEL
02 217 01 58 www.chab.be
Between the lack of light, drab exterior, and rickety and uncomfortable beds in the dorms, this hostel feels a little like a prison. Compared to most hostels, though, the communal bathrooms are clean and modern, and you’re free to come and go as you please---Van Gogh doesn’t feel the need to put a curfew on its residents. The location situates you near some awesome museums and Le Botanique, a brilliant local concert venue, so there is some light at the end of the tunnel. When you really do feel like you’re behind bars, go outside and take in the beautiful sights of the Botanic Gardens.
Botanique. Head north along rue Royale, past La Botanique, then turn right onto rue Traversière. Breakfast and linens provided. Ages 18-35 only. Wi-Fi €2 per hr. 8- to 10-bed dorms €18.50; 6-bed €20.50; 4-bed €21.50; 3-bed €27.50. Singles €33.50; doubles €53. Reception 24hr.
SIGHTS
Lower Town
MANNEKEN PIS
Intersection of rue de l’Étuve and rue du Chêne
STATUE
Prepare to be pretty underwhelmed but pretty amused by the icon of Brussels: a little boy taking a pee into a pond below. This little statue, whose real origins are not known, is one of Brussels’ most famous monuments, and he is continually swamped with visitors who stand by his basin in various poses, one of the most popular being to cover his stonely manhood with a hand so that it does not show in the picture. The Manneken likes to celebrate certain national holidays and events, or even just indulge the weird happenings and habits of Brussels; hundreds of Elvis fans once congregated at his feet as he donned his blue suede shoes and classic white jacket. For true insight into the enigma that is the Manneken, start up a conversation with the souvenir vendor directly in front of the sight---he’s been there for over 20 years and has some interesting stories to tell. Though, in his own words, the little boy doesn’t cause much trouble. Despite his nudity, he is otherwise polite, well-mannered, and pleased to see the whole world coming to visit him.
Head southwest from the Grand Place along rue de l’Étuve. The Manneken is 3 blocks down. Check the vendor’s calendar to see what the Manneken Pis will be wearing and when. Free.
MUSÉE DU CACAO ET DU CHOCOLAT
9-11 rue de la Tête d’Or
MUSEUM
02 514 20 48 www.mucc.be
It is impossible to miss the smell of chocolate that flows out of this small museum just off of the Grand Place. Opened in 1998 by Jo Draps, the daughter of one of the founders of Godiva chocolate company, the Musée du Cacao et du Chocolat is a chocoholic’s dream (or worst nightmare if it’s Lent). Fresh milk chocolate is churned in the entrance, where you can taste both warm and cold chocolate before proceeding to watch the English-speaking chocolate chef work his magic (and of course taste the results). The museum also aims to promote the role of cacao in the development of chocolate, as so many people do not know about its origin or uses (did you know the Aztecs used cacao as a form of currency?). Although Godiva was sold to the Americans in the 1970s, the museum has been kept in the family and is currently run by Jo Drap’s daughter. For those worried about the potential side effects of their chocolate consumption, head up to the third floor to bust some myths about your favorite foodstuff: chocolate does not cause acne! Well then, choc’s away...
Bourse. Just south of Grand Place. €5.50; students, seniors, and ages 12-16 €4.50; under 12 free with parent. Open Tu-Su 10am-4:30pm.
GRAND PLACE
Grand Place
SQUARE
The historical center of Brussels is a very grand place known, naturally, as the Grand Place. Standing in the middle of the square, you’ll find yourself surrounded by the breathtaking architecture. Soak up the grandeur in one of the square’s many cafes, where you can sip coffee and watch the tourists plow on through with their cameras. Don’t make the same mistake they often do—look up as well as around. The really interesting, intricate architecture is above you, not in front of you. Grand Place really lets down its hair at night, so you should definitely come back and explore once the sun goes down. The famous Guildhall buildings, including the Hotel de Ville and the Maison de Roi, are dramatically illuminated. During mid-August every year, the Grand Place is home to the “Flower Carpet,” where green-thumbed Belgian gardeners create a design with colorful native fauna.
Bourse. Head straight down rue de la Bourse, which leads to the northeast corner of the square.
SCIENTASTIC
Bourse Metro Station
MUSEUM
02 732 13 36 www.scientastic.be
Don’t be put off by the location of this brilliant museum—although many of Brussels’ homeless hang around in the Bourse Metro station, the museum’s a load of fun. Head downstairs and follow the large, colorful signs to the Scientastic, which from the outside looks a bit like a fortune teller’s tent. The museum’s goal is to make science fun, interactive, and accessible for both kids and adults, and the curators have succeeded in making this more than just another science museum. Every visitor can try a “freebie” visit before deciding to pay the entrance or not (!!). Make sure you try out the Manneken Pis recreation to discover how water actually flows, and experiment around with color shadows. The very comical “mirror performance” demonstrates the magic of reflections, as the tour guide uses various illusions to appear to float, shrink, explode, and even stab himself. Young children and uncoordinated adults should take care not to try the tricks at home.
Bourse. Head toward the Anspach exit and follow the signs for Scientastic. English-speaking tour guides and English walkthrough guide available. €7.70, under 26 and seniors €5.20. Open M-Tu 10am-5:30pm, W 2-5:30pm, Th-F 10am-5:30pm, Sa-Su 2-5:30pm.
Upper Town
MAGRITTE MUSEUM
3 rue de la Régence
MUSEUM
02 508 32 11 www.musee-magritte-museum.be
The Magritte Museum will be one of the most enjoyable, educational and fascinating museum trips you make in Brussels, and maybe in Europe. The museum opened just las
t year, and until recently tickets had to be booked in advance to ensure you got a spot in line. Now that the crowds aren’t as big, swing by and prepare to be amazed. Start your tour at the glass elevator; four Magritte paintings of a man, each at varying stages of completion, are mounted vertically on the opposite wall, and appear to eerily blur together as the elevator rushes by. Each of the museum’s three floors conveys a period in the Belgian artist’s life through a collection of paintings, drawings, and primary sources (translated into English) that convey the true genius of the man. Make sure you check out the collection of hand-drawn images, compiled by Magritte, Scutenaire, Hamoir and Nougé, in which each of the friends took turns drawing a different limb or cross-section of the human form---without looking at what their colleagues had drawn previously. The results are insightful and brilliant to look at. The audio tour is a very well-compiled and informative guide to this fascinating museum.
Parc. €8, students €2, seniors and groups €5, 18 and under free. Audio tour in English €4. Combined ticket with Beaux-Artes €13. Open Tu 10am-5pm, W 10am-8pm, Th-Su 10am-5pm.
MUSÉES ROYAUX DES BEAUX-ARTS
3 rue de la Régence
MUSEUM
02 508 32 11 www.fine-arts-museum.be
Brussels’ collection of fine art is split into two sections: ancient and modern. A ticket to the Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts gets you access to both areas. Jan Fobre’s massive globe towers over the museum’s illustrious lobby; it is crawling with green and blue scarabs, providing a sample of the masterpieces showcased here. The museum’s modern arts section displays some of the most mind-boggling works from the 19th-21st centuries, including provocative paintings and sculptures that will either fascinate you or make you wonder why you bought a ticket. The true highlight of the museum is the new Magritte Museum, an homage to a modern master if ever there was one, which is housed in the same building complex. Head upstairs for the ancient arts, including a permanent collection called “Art and Finance,” which examines historical figures and portraits. Before you head away from the area, make sure you visit the adjacent Garden of Sculptures, filled with statues and sculptures watching over you as you eat your lunch.
Parc. €8, students €2, under 18 free. Free first W every month after 1pm. Combined ticket with Magritte Museum €13. Open Tu-Su 10am-5pm.
CATHÉDRALE DES SAINTS MICHEL ET GUDULE
15 rue du Bois Sauvage
CATHEDRAL
02 217 85 45
Although the Cathedral was only granted status as such in 1962, the building before you has a marvelous history spanning over a millennium and several restorations. The original foundations of Cathédrale des Sts.-Michel et Gudule date back to the 9th century (more recent areas of the foundation can be seen in the crypt for €1). In the 11th century, the building was rebuilt over a 300-year period and heavily influenced by Gothic architecture. Beginning in the mid 1980s and ending in the late ’90s, the Cathedral underwent extensive renovations again, restoring the stone work to its original splendor. As you wander through the cathedral, gaze up to the statues of the saints guarding the walls. Each holds an item symbolizing something from the Christian faith: St. Philippe, for example, holds the book of knowledge, while St. Peter posesses a set of golden keys.
Gare Centrale. Free. Crypt €1 Donation. Free choir concerts throughout the year. Open M-F 7:30am-6pm, Sa-Su 8:30am-6pm. Mass in French Su 10am, 11:30am, and 12:30pm.
BOTANIQUE
BOTANICAL GARDENS
These beautiful gardens span 6 hectares of land and provide the ideal spot to catch a bit of sun or take a break during the summer. The numerous private enclaves are a welcome break from the touristed city center. Grab a drink at the cafe (open daily 10am-8pm) and sit on the terrace overlooking the gardens, or go for a stroll round the fountains and lake. The Botanic Gardens also has a concert venue on its terrace, where up-and-coming European and American artists entertain local students and concertgoers.
Botanique. Free. Open daily Oct-Apr 8am-5pm; May-Sept 8am-8pm.
PARC DE BRUXELLES
PARK
Between Belgian Parliament and Royal Palace
Walk the perimeter of what is arguably Brussels’ most beautiful park and view the Palace of the Nation and other beautiful monuments, or head inward for the trees and foliage. Joggers dominate the dirt tracks at all hours, so take care not to get mowed down. Luckily, there are plenty of places to escape the healthy crowd. The wide green patches, benches, and fountains make the park an ideal place to stop and have a picnic lunch, or just to rest your feet after a busy morning walking around the surrounding museums.
Parc. Open daily 7am-11pm.
Place Schuman
MUSÉES ROYAUX D’ART ET D’HISTOIRE
10 parc Cinquantenaire
MUSEUM
02 741 72 11 wwww.mrah.be
This brilliant museum covers a lot of historical ground, so be prepared to cover a lot of ground on foot through the endless exhibits. Immerse yourself in the civilizations of the Aztecs and Egyptians before moving on to the extensive Roman exhibits, which include a wide range of artwork, skeletal remains, and archaeological discoveries. Not all the signs in the museum are written in English, but the collection still lends great insight into the historical periods on display. Make sure to check out the Easter Island section, which showcases one of the island’s famous and massive stone heads, before heading over to the medieval and Islamic art sections. The museum could take up a whole morning, and then some. Chances are you won’t feel the time pass at all.
Schuman. In the far southwest corner of Parc Cinquantenaire. $ €5, students and under 18 €4. Open Tu-F 9:30am-5pm.
ATOMIUM
Square de l’Atomium
HISTORIC BUILDING
02 475 47 77 www.atomium.be
For many, it is the most horrific eyesore of the Brussels’ skyline; for others, it is a stroke of architectural genius. Built for the World Expo in 1958, this structure was designed by André Waterkeyn to resemble the atom of an iron crystal—just 165 billion times bigger. The resulting structure is over 100m high, and one of the highlights of visiting the Atomium is a trip to the top in Europe’s fastest elevator. As you ascend at 5m per second, you might feel your stomach do a little jump as you take in the panoramic view around you. But the Atomium isn’t just a great place for a view of Brussels. Five of the nine spheres of the building are open for you to explore; collectively, they host a restaurant, permanent and temporary exhibits, and a cafe. The permanent collection is a brilliant walk through the history of Expo ’58 and the Atomium’s construction. Temporary exhibits often focus on science and European culture.
Take Line 6 to Heysel. €11, students and ages 12-18 €8, ages 6-11 €4, under 6 free. Audio tour €2. Open daily 10am-6pm.
PARC DU CINQUANTENAIRE
PARK
This is one of Brussels’ beautiful places, with long green lawns and benches for you to lounge on in the sun. The park is home to what you might mistake for the Arc de Triomphe; it is in fact Brussels’ very own Arcade Cinquantenaire, complete with four stone horses drawing a chariot. A walk east along the park will bring you to Autoworld, the Musée Royal de l’Armée et d’Histoire Militaire, and the Musées Royaux d’Art et d’Histoire, which means that, even if it rains, you have some shelter (especially the free Military Museum). During the summer, bright green deck chairs are dotted round the park, making for a perfect picnic or sunbathing spot.
Schuman. At the bottom of rue de la Loi.
STATUE LÉOPOLD
Parc de Laeken
MONUMENT, STATUE
This monument to the former king of Belgium stands proud on the top of a hill and looks directly down to the residence of the current Belgian royal family. A grand gold statue of Léopold stands in the middle of the castle-like structure. Unfortunately, Léopold’s a little camera shy---the area is fenced off from visitors.
Heysel. In the center of Parc de Laeken.
CHATEAU ROYA
L DE LAEKEN
Av. du Parc Royal
CHTEAU
Unfortunately, Prince Philip of Belgium won’t be inviting you in for a beer in his grand royal chateau, and if you attempt to get in it’s likely that those two stone lions guarding the gate will magically come to life to stop you—well, either them or the police officers surrounding the gates, but Let’s Go likes to think the odds are 50-50. When King Léopold ascended to the throne in 1831, this chateau was chosen as the royal residence. Although this is the Prince’s main residence, however, it is no longer the official royal residence—the Royal Palace in actually located in the Upper Town.
Heysel. In the southeast corner of Parc du Laeken.
FOOD
Eating in Brussels can be cheap, which makes the city a student traveler’s dream. Locals will even eat out once or twice a week thanks to the inexpensive cost, and Brussels prides itself on quality cuisine. In the Lower Town, avoid the tourist traps on rue du Bouchers. Cheap friteries and waffle stands can also be found all over the city, and supermarkets are plentiful on rue Neuve.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 11