A beautiful way to spend an afternoon or a date is to take a walk along the paved paths that line this small river, flowing through New Town and Stockbridge. Green trees and foliage hang over the path, providing some shade for when you want to sit down on one of the many benches that line the water. If you follow it long enough, you’ll come up underneath the massive, arched underbelly of the Dean Bridge.
THE ROYAL BOTANIC GARDENS
20a Inverleith Row
BOTANIC GARDENS
0131 552 7171 www.rbge.org.uk
A center for plant research and conservation, this place is nuts (seeds, and spores too) for plants. The entrance and visitors center is beautifully impressive, with a glass facade and white, spinning windmill in front. Entrance to the gardens themselves is free, but to get in to the Glasshouses for the real, misty green experience, you’ll have to pay.
£4, concessions £3, children £1, family £8. Open daily Apr-Sept 10am-6pm, Mar-Oct 10am-5pm.
Tollcross and West End
THE MEADOWS
PUBLIC PARK
Located on the southwestern end of town, the Meadows are a beautiful, welcome respite from the honking cars and blabbing people inside the city. With wide-open, grass-covered fields intersected by paths covered by the shade of trees, it’s no wonder that during the festival the Meadows become a hotspot for people to gather and throw frisbees, barbecue, and generally just have a great time. There are also 16 tennis courts and a playground on one end.
If you want to make sure of your spot on a tennis court during the summer months, call ahead to reserve at 0131 444 1969. Courts open Apr-June M-F 4-9pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm; July-Aug MoF 9am-9pm, Sa-Su 10am-7:30pm; Sept M-F 4-9pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.
FOOD
Edinburgh, like any heavily touristed city, has just about any kind of cuisine you might be hankering for. So if you haven’t quite gotten up the gumption to try haggis yet, try some fantastical veggie creations over at David Bann’s or a huge plate of beef curry over at the Mosque Kitchen. You can do a wine and cheese night at the hostel if you stock up at I. J. Mellis in Stockbridge. In short, the possibilities are endless.
Old Town
DAVID BANN
56-58 St. Mary’s St.
VEGETARIAN
0131 556 5888 www.davidbann.com
At this all-vegetarian restaurant, you’re not going be suffering through your salad. How’s a watercress, beetroot, and goat cheese salad sound? Good? We thought so. Enjoy your meal and maybe one of the excellently spicy Bloody Marys in the attractive, modern interior.
Entrees £15-20. Open M-Th 11am-10pm, F 11am-10:30pm, Sa 10am-10:30pm, Su 10am-10pm.
LE CAFÉ ROYALE
274 Cannongate St.
CAFE
0131 652 3534
A people watcher’s paradise, the entire front of this café swings open in good weather, leaving you with a covered fresh-air view of the street outside. A few quaint round tables, local artwork on the walls and a central support beam that looks like it was ripped out of the Titanic complete the ensemble. Grab a coffee—it’s strong and fresh. Let the watch begin.
All coffee under £2. Open daily 8am-around 8pm.
ELEPHANT CAFÉ
21 George IV Bridge
CAFE, BAR
0131 220 5355 www.elephanthouse.biz
Harry Potter and company were birthed here on scribbled napkins. The cafe serves both coffee and booze, making you wonder which one JK Rowling was drinking when she had her “inspiration.” Choose yours. They also have a selection of pastries and pies.
£5 minimum. Coffee £1.50-2.75. Beer £3 per bottle. Open M-F 8am-11pm, Sa-Su 9am-11pm.
RISTORANTE GENNARO
64 Grassmarket St.
ITALIAN
0131 226 3706
The best way to pick out an Italian restaurant is obvious—look for the one that’s full. The second method requires a quick peek at the menu—is it in Italian? Ristorante Gennaro fulfills both of these requirements, seeing its tables fill every night and a menu that has English translations. Dim lighting and a deep red color scheme accentuate the fancy feel, but students as well as a pre-theater crowd are known to turn up.
Appetizers £1.50-9. Pizza £8-12. Fish entrees £12-14, meat entrees £14-19.50. Open daily noon-11pm.
New Town
THE UNDERGROUND CAFÉ (TUC)
34 Eden St.
CAFE
0131 624 7161
A surprisingly great local dive—you’ll literally be going down some steep stairs to get to it—located just a few steps away from the Edinburgh bus station, TUC has a charming interior and delicious food. Check out the local artwork on the walls or browse through the festival information resting conveniently on top of an old piano in the entrance.
Soup with bread £1.75-2.75. Open M-F 7:30am-4pm, Sa 8:30am-4pm.
WOLFITS
200 Rose St.
RESTAURANT, DELI
0131 225 5096
We have no idea why this restaurant is called “Wolfits.” What we do know is that this small establishment sells good food cheap. Soups and buttered baguettes go for under £3. There’s not really an atmosphere, but you can watch music videos on the television while you wolf it down.
Open daily 7:30am-4pm.
INDIAN THALI RESTAURANT
1-3 York Pl.
RESTAURANT
0131 557 9899
With a deep, royal red interior filled with flower vases, this isn’t your typical stop-off for a quick bite. The Bollywood music’s playing, but if that doesn’t drag you in, you can grab some takeaway—it comes with free rice.
Entrees £8-11. Breakfast sandwiches £1-3. Open Tu-Sa for noon-2:30pm. Open daily 5:30-11pm.
THE CONAN DOYLE
71-73 York Pl.
PUB GRUB
0131 557 9539
In the neighborhood where Sir Arthur Conan Doyle himself used to live, there’s memorabilia—Sherlock Holmes and otherwise—galore in this resto pub. A good value for a full cooked breakfast (veggie or not). Come by on the weekends when it’s more of a pub and receive the same kind of value on drinks. Also, enjoy the comfy armchairs.
Breakfast from £5. Open M-Th 9am-11:45pm, F-Sa 9am-1am, Su 12:30pm-midnight.
BROWN SUGAR
39 Queen St.
CAFE
0131 623 7770
There aren’t really any attention-grabbing words like “arresting” or “insane” to describe Brown Sugar. And that’s what makes it great. Located on a corner just across the street from the park-like Queen’s gardens, it’s a spot where you can grab a nice coffee, sit back, munch on some homemade banana bread and watch the world go by. How’s that for arresting?
Americano £1.90. Cadbury’s hot chocolate £1.60. Open M-F 7am-3:30pm, Sa 10am-4pm.
MIRÓ CANTINA MEXICANA
184 Rose St.
MEXICAN
0131 225 4376
It’s a fiesta in here! Or at least, that’s what the paint job would have you believe. Bright yellows and wild patterns cover the inside (and outside) of this eatery. A little more “Mexican” than “Taco Bell,” this place offers a big plate of nachos with beans, jalapeños, melted cheese, salsa, sour cream, and guacamole (£5). Even the outdoor seating has a festive paint job.
Selection of Mexican beers £3.10-3.25. Open daily in summer noon-10:30pm. Open in winter noon-2:30pm and 5:30-10pm.
Stockbridge
BELLS DINER
7 St. Stephens St.
DINER
0131 225 4673
We at Let’s Go are not picky about burgers. For us, as long as it’s hot, has a bun, and isn’t from a franchise with a “drive-thru,” we’re pretty happy. However, there are occasions in one’s life where one is exposed to burger greatness, and Bells Diner is one of those experiences. The burgers cost a bit more than you’d usually pay (£8-10) but are well worth the expenditure. Also, they come with a full plate of chips (fries) and a selection of six different dipping sauces..
Reserv
ations for weekend evenings recommended. Open M-F 6-10pm, Sa noon-10pm, Su 6-10pm.
MADELEINE
27b Raeburn Pl.
CAFE
0131 332 8455
An intensely modern, intensely chic cafe with the most futuristic bathrooms you’ve ever seen (seriously, it’s like NASA designed the loo...), Madeleine earns the thumb-pick for the macaroons. These light wafery cookied sandwiches are sweet but tart, in flavors like vanilla, chocolate, raspberry, and mango (£.80 each). You can’t stop eating them. Seriously, we tried. You can’t (mumble crunch yum!) stop...
Cakes and coffees £1.40-5. Open Tu-Sa 10am-5:30pm, Su 11am-5:30pm.
GREEN GROCER’S
11 Deanhaugh St.
GROCERY
0131 332 7384
Get your fresh apples, nectarines, carrots and any other type of fresh munch-able you may be interested in here. Head inside the store for the more sinful foodstuffs, such as chocolates and soft drinks.
Open daily 6:30am-9pm.
I. J. MELLIS
6 Bakers Pl.
DELI
0131 225 6566 www.mellischeese.co.uk
Yeah, you may be paying the same for some cheese and cured meat as you would for a big plate of fish and chips, but where else are you going to find Pyrenees Chevre goat cheese? Not at the chippie’s you aren’t.
Open M-F 9am-6:30pm, Sa 9am-6pm, Su 10am-5pm.
Haymarket and Dalry
GOOD SEED BISTRO
100-102 Dalry Rd.
BISTRO
0131 337 3803 www.goodseedbistro.com
The new kid on the block, the Good Seed Bistro is doing everything right: classy interior, a relaxed vibe. They serve weekday lunch specials (2 courses, £7.95). Interested in coming during the mornings? Coffee and cakes go for just £4.50.
Wi-Fi available. Open M-Th noon-10pm, F-Sa noon-11pm, Su noon-4pm.
CLIFTON FISH BAR
10 Clifton Terr.
FISH AND CHIPS
0131 346 8723 www.clifton-fish-bar.justeat.co.uk
A tiny fish and chips joint with two slap-happy fry cooks who are more than ready to play on the job, the Clifton Fish Bar sells cheap pizzas, calzones, and chips. Order the “munchy box,” with chicken pakora, vegetable pakora, donner meat, chips, and a can of soda (just £8.99).
10 in. calzone £4-5.50. 7 in. pizza £3. Open M-Th 4:30pm-1am, F-Sa 4:30pm-2am, Su 4:30pm-1am.
XIANGBALA HOTPOT
63 Dalry Rd.
RESTAURANT
0131 313 4408
A slightly different take on restaurant culture, the Xiangbala Hotpot is £15 per person all you can eat for 2hr. With a silver boiling pot in the middle of the smooth black tables, meats, seafood, and veggies are introduced into boiling broths and then eaten.
Open daily 3-11pm.
Tollcross and West End
THE MOSQUE KITCHEN
19a West Nicholson St.
CURRY
The guys at the Mosque Kitchen don’t mess around. There’s not any “atmosphere” to speak of—just some covered outdoor cafeteria seating—but you don’t need it, as you’ll be too busy staring at your giant plate of delicious rice and curry to care.
Veggie curry plate £3.50, meat £4.50, chicken £3. Open daily noon-8pm; closed F 1-1:45pm for prayers.
VICTOR HUGO CONTINENTAL DELICATESSEN
26-27 Melville Terr.
DELI
0131 667 1827 victorhugodeli.com
A true combination of deli and cafe, Victor Hugo’s has little booths along the walls perfect for snuggling up with a coffee. The inside is a great place to wonder when the pissing rain is going to stop. Or if you’ve got a slightly more benevolent attitude towards the weather, you can sit outside and enjoy the rain—from underneath the awnings of course. With locals who’ve been coming back since 1940 as well as students who come for the belly-filling mac and cheese, it’s everybody’s favorite. Try the award-winning Ramsay of Carluke bacon roll (£2.85).
Teas £1.60. Open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa-Su 8am-8pm. During the festival, open daily 8am-11pm.
BRAZILIAN SENSATION
117-119 Buccleuch St.
BRAZILIAN
0131 667 0400 www.braziliansensation.co.uk
Brazilian Sensation is a smallish but elaborately decorated restaurant that can’t get enough of its South American namesake. Even the mannequin in the window is decked out in Brazilian gear. Serving rolls and sandwiches as well as a large variety of tropical fruit smoothies (£3.50).
Baguettes £2.75. Open M-Sa noon-4pm, open Su during the festival.
PETER’S YARD
27 Simpson Ln.
CAFE
0131 229 5876 www.petersyard.com
Peter’s Yard, a Swedish-style cafe housed right in the heart of the University of Edinburgh, serves hot cinnammon buns as well as Kladdkaka (a Swedish chocolate cake). The cafe is housed in a clear glass box, so those sitting outside on the balcony may spy on those sitting inside and vice versa. Unfortunately, it seems that most of the people coming to Peter’s Yard aren’t interesting enough to spy on.
Kladdkaka £2.70. Coffee £1.75-2.95. Open M-F 7am-6pm, Sa-Su 9am-6pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Edinburgh, despite being the “prettier little sister” to Glasgow, has nowhere near the same club scene. This town full of pubs and bars, however, buzzes happily on the weekends and skyrockets in intensity during the festivals in August. Each specific neighborhood will have its own variations on the classic pub, from the tourist-heavy areas along the Royal Mile, to the strange collection of odd and local watering holes on Rose Street in New Town, to the posh, hip new bars in Stockbridge.
Drinking in Scotland, and in Edinburgh especially, isn’t about “going on the piss” (though that is a part of it), but about finding the right place for yourself, your group, your night, and your state of mind—no matter how much that last one may be altered throughout the night.
Old Town
BANNERMAN’S
212 Cowgate
BAR, MUSIC VENUE
0131 556 3254 www.myspace.com/bannermanslive
With a subterranean, half-barrel auditorium for the live acts, the soundproofing in Bannerman’s is so good, if you want to sit in the bar and have a friendly chat, you can...while a rock show goes on next door. A wide selection of beers and cask ales are available, but if you want to try the house special, go for the “Jager U-boat.” What is a Jager U-boat, you ask? Just place your fingers in your ears, grab a small bottle of Jager with your teeth, tilt your head back and---Whoosh! hear the bubbles of the ocean as you decend...into a drunken stupor. Nah, you’ll be fine, and Bannerman’s is a kick-ass place to hang out.
Live shows £4-8. Jager U-boat £2. Pints £3.40-3.65. Open daily Sept-July noon-1am. Aug noon-3am.
WHITE HART INN
34 Grassmarket
PUB
0131 226 2806
The Grassmarket’s oldest pub (est. 1516), the White Hart Inn retains its olden feel, with faded photographs on the walls, beer steins hanging from the ceilings, and one slightly creepy bust of William Burke by the door. Famous patrons of the pub include Scotland’s favorite poet, Robert Burns. Grab a pint and see if your poetical stylings are loosed.
Pints £2.85-4. Spirits £2.95-12.49. Open M-Th 11am-midnight, F-Sa 11am-1am, Su 11am-midnight.
GREYFRIARS BOBBY’S BAR
30-34 Candlemaker Row
PUB
0131 225 8328
Named after one of Edinburgh’s local legends—Greyfriars Bobby, a terrier so faithful that slept at his owner’s grave for the next 14 years until his own death. The citizens here buried him next to his beloved owner and the loyal pooch entered annals of local legend. There’s a statue of Bobby outside this pub, and it’s a popular photo spot for tourists of all nationalities. The pub itself is a pretty standard alehouse, but if you want to contemplate Bobby’s loyalty from across the street you can sit outside and have a beer.
Ales £2.80-3. Spirits £3. Open M-Sa 11am-midnight, Su 11
:30am-midnight.
BLACK BULL
12 Grassmarket St.
PUB
0131 225 6636
The floors, the walls, and the ceiling, the place look like the inside of an oak tree. A really big oak tree. The Black Bull is enormous, with ample room for you and a party of any size to find seats in one of the warmly lit booths or on a plush leather sofa. Serving real cask ales, it’s more a hang-out than a dance bar, but there are DJs on the weekends.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 29