CZECH
220 518 484 www.ucisaru.cz
This 13th-century cellar, complete with crossed swords and a boar’s head, has served the likes of George H. W. Bush, Margaret Thatcher, and Lech Wałęsa. Finally, a goulash worth splurging on (340Kč). Other specialties include roast duck in honey and ginger (420Kč) and pork sirloin stuffed with carrots and celery (440Kč).
Tram #22 or 91: Brusnice. From the tram, take U Brusnice south and then turn left on Loretánská. Appetizers 210-230Kč. Entrees 340-550Kč. No dress code per se, but you’d probably feel awkward in jeans and a T-shirt. Reservations recommended. Open daily 9am-1am.
Žižkov
ZELENÁ KUCHYNĚ
Milíčova 5
VEGETARIAN
222 220 114 www.zelenakuchyne.cz
Clean, fresh, wholesome ingredients combine to make any vegetarian orgasm. Check out the grilled tomatoes with goat cheese and blackberry dressing...do you want to get a room? Top off the pleasurable experience with a little dessert; savor the cinnamon pancakes made from oatmeal and apples and topped with ice cream and blueberry sauce.
Trams #5, 9, 26: Lipanská. From the stop, walk west on and turn right at Seifertova Milíčova. The restaurant is on your left. Menus from 90Kč. Entrees 110-290Kč. Open M-F 11am-8pm.
SPICE INDIA
Husitská 73/37
INDIAN
776 293 320 www.spiceindia.cz
No fuss, no muss at this little Indian fast-food joint off the main street. Deliciously spicy cuisine is served up on metal plates by a genial counter staff. Don’t forget to order water to wash down the burn.
Bus #133, 175, or 509: Tachovské náměstí. Keep walking in the direction the bus is going until you find the place on your right. Entrees 65-180Kč. Open M-F 11am-11pm, Sa Noon-11pm, Su 5pm-11pm.
Vinohrady
CAFÉ ŠLAGR
Francouzská 72/563
CAFE
607 27 76 88 www.kavarnaslagr.cz
“Mind-blowing” is an appropriate word to describe Café Šlagr’s baked goods. If they have it in stock, the Pářvžký rohliček (29Kč) will be one of your finest culinary experiences, while the krernrole (17Kč) will help you understand what the Italians were aiming for with cannoli. Be sure to get it with some coffee and milk—the milk comes from a little cow vessel who happily regurgitates into your espresso (36Kč). The family behind this genius operation dressed their little cafe like 1930s Paris and plays cute little swing tunes to sell the effect.
A: Náměstí Míru. From the station, walk southeast along Francouská. The cafe will be on your right. Baked goods 17-40Kč. Breakfast 49-69Kč. Open M-F 8am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-10pm. Breakfast served 8-11am.
LAS ADELITAS
Americká 8
MEXICAN
776 80 53 17 www.lasadelitas.cz
Described by some locals as “the only real Mexican restaurant in Prague,” this hole-in-the-wall taqueria serves up oddly authentic south-of-the-border fare. Enchiladas, burritos, and tacos all come with legit Mexican queso, pickled onions, and hearty refried black beans. Both come with pork and chicken, but pork is the specialty—and boy is it special. Vegetarians will enjoy any major dish served up with sauteed mushrooms, while parched amigos can sooth themselves with a cool glass of horchata (25-69Kč) or with one of 13 tequilas (69-150Kč). Try the Sopa Azteca (49Kč) for a surprisingly filling soup packed with cheese, chicken, and onions.
A: Náměstí Míru. From the station, walk down Americká. The restaurant is past the square with the dinosaur fountain on your left. Entrees 99-179Kč. Margaritas 89-99Kč. Open M-F 11am-11pm, Sa-Su 2-11pm. Kitchen open until 10pm.
CAFE ZANZIBAR
Americká 15
CAFE
222 52 03 15 www.kavarnazanzibar.cz
This relaxing French cafe has a strange power to improve your mood. Set breakfast menus with combinations of cheese, eggs, pastries, coffee, and baguettes come at great prices (79-149Kč)—and yes, some of them come with beer instead of coffee. Lunch includes 20 salad options (59-149Kč) and a mess of French and international favorites, like croques monsieur (ham and cheese super-sandwiches; 65-95Kč) and Mexican tube sandwiches (burritos; 129-139Kč). Stick around and try a few “beer cocktails”—beers sloshed with things like lemon syrup, Coke, and Sprite (46-59Kč). If you drink enough, you’ll get to check out the strangely nautical bathrooms, where a net above the urinals threatens to trap the slow pisser!
A: Náměstí Míru. From the station, walk down Americká. The cafe is on your right at the square with the dinosaur fountain. Only the porch is wheelchair-accessible. Coffee 36-42Kč. Breakfast 79-149Kč. Open M-F 8am-11pm, Sa-Su 10am-11pm. Kitchen open 8am-10pm.
U PALEČKA
Nitranská 1625/22
CZECH
224 25 06 26 www.vinarnaupalecka.cz
U Palečka’s simple, rustic interior does not do justice to its gastromically rich menu. One can enjoy its food best from the intimate outdoor porch-boxes in front of the restaurant. On a dry summer day, take in a strange starter like smoked tongue (60Kč) or even a well-priced dish of caviar (110Kč). Beef dishes will cost you the most, maybe because of the thick whipped cream they’re garnished with (260Kč), but chicken dishes, including mind-blowers like the chicken pocket stuffed with ham and cheese (155Kč), or the turkey stuffed with blue cheese and broccoli (150Kč) are more than reasonable.
A: Jiřího z Poděbrad. From the station, head south on Nitranská, the restaurant will be on your right Entrees 90-260Kč. Open daily 11am-midnight.
U BULÍNŮ
Budečská 803/2
CZECH
224 25 46 76 www.ubulinu.cz
Before you order from this amazing traditional Czech restaurant, read its legend printed in English on the first two pages of the menu. When you’re done laughing at the most comprehensive piece of incomprehensible private history you’ve ever encountered, order anything you want from the large and exciting menu. In keeping with the “devilish” theme of the restaurant (according to legend, the original owners grew horns, a condition called bulinia), chicken dishes (139-179Kč) are served with Lucifer skewers and hellish hot sauce. Even vegetarians can get their kicks by ordering any of the several pastas (89-159Kč) without chicken, or getting some “traditional Mexican” fare like tortilla with red kidney beans, corn tomatoes, and sour cream.
A: Náměstí Míru. From the station, walk southeast down Francouzská. The restaurant will be on the corner 3 blocks down. Entrees 119-200Kč. Open daily 11am-11pm.
Holešovice
LA CRĚPERIE
Janovskéno 4, Praha 7
FRENCH
22 087 8040 www.lacreperie.cz
La Crěperie’s jive is as hip and French as anyone could hope for. Decor details like a gold-star-striped walls, old photos, even those red bathroom doors Frenchies require for their bowels to work, win this place before we even get to the food. But the food’s great too. Sharp “zappy” espresso (32Kč) comes avec biscuits, the crepes (35-89Kč) are perfectly drizzled with honey, and the tunes are hand-selected French grunge rocks and froggie ballads. Someone should film a movie here called, Amélie II: Czech Out My Quirks! French galettes—buckwheat crepes with savory innards like ham and cheese—are the VIPs of this menu...crunchy and flaky, they’re the original Hot Pockets (72-110Kč). Get them with a cup of traditional Brittany cider mixed with blackcurrant cream.
C: Vltavská. From the station, head right down Bubenské nábřeží then loop around and cross in front of the giant church; the restaurant is on your left. Crepes 35-89Kč. Daily 9am-11pm. Kitchen closes at 10pm.
KORBEL
Komunardů 1001/30, 170 00 Praha 7
CZECH
22 298 6095 www.restauracekorbel.cz
The building that held Holešovice’s oldest restaurant now houses its youngest and hippest one. But don’t let the fancy, vaguely-Cubist chairs or the free-form paintings of “sexy Pilsner bottles” give you the wrong idea; the prices and the fare are still solid and t
raditional. Czech specialties dominate the menu, with options of pork, duck, rabbit, beef, and chicken in a variety of goulashes, stews, and steaks. Vegetarians will also find a selection of vegetables and cheese dinners (89-95Kč). Currently the menu is only available in Czech, but an English menu is in the works, and the staff is friendly and glad to translate.
C: Vltavská. From the station, take any Tram #that departs to the left. Ride it 2 stops to Dělnická. Main dishes 89-175Kč. Beer 24-40Kč. M-Sa 11am-2am, Su noon-midnight.
Dejvice
VEGETKA
Kafkova 16
VEGETARIAN
776 343 462 www.volny.cz/vegetka
A Buddhist vegetarian restaurant that serves up the freshest of dishes with an Asian twist. It’ll be hard not to like tofu after you’ve eaten here. The “special soup” is especially noteworthy and stocked with noodles, mushrooms, and coriander (among other secret ingredients).
A: Dejvická. Keep right around the round about, and make a right on Kafkova from Dejvická. Entrees 25-120Kč. Open M-Sa 10:30am-9pm.
PIVNICE BRUSKA
Dejvická 20
INTERNATIONAL
224 322 946 www.restaurace-bruska.com
Something of a neighborhood landmark that locals have largely managed to keep to themselves. The wooden furniture and ceiling beams and brick floor all signal a typical Czech pub, but the menu contains several surprises for those who can decipher it. Highlights include kangaroo with cranberry sauce and vegetables (143Kč) for those who hate adorable animals, and pork stuffed with bacon (189Kč) for those who hate themselves.
A: Hradčanská. From the Metro, walk north on Bubenečská and then turn left on Dejvická. Salads 70-125Kč. Entrees 120-190Kč. Open M-Sa 11am-11:30pm, Su 11:30am-10pm.
Smichov
ARSLAN KEBAP
Bozděchova 2246/3
KEBAB
257 212 869
Hands-down some of the best kebab and gyros found in the city. The bread used to create the gyros sandwich is a fluffy, airy piece of heaven resembling something akin to ciabatta rather than the soggy pita that most places offer. Way cheaper than anything you’ll find around the center and also gives you a giant bang for your tiny little buck.
B: Anděl. Head away from the mall on Nadrazini and make a right on Bozděchova. Gyros from 59Kč. Open M-Th 10:30am-10pm, F-Sa 10:30am-11pm.
CUKRÁRNA EVELÍNA
Bozděchova 5
PASTRY SHOP, CAFE
602 891 724
This adorable little pastry shop looks like some place you’d take your dolls out for tea and chocolate cake. Don’t spend too long ogling the tiers behind the glass case—a long line waits behind you. Enjoy your find at a little white table and be amused by the drooling passersby.
B: Anděl. Head away from the mall on Nadrazini and make a right on Bozděchova. Cake slices from 18Kč. Open daily 9am-7pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Although Prague has one of the greatest clubs in the world (Cross Club) and a few genuinely amazing bars (Chapeau Rouge), most of the nighlife centers on the pub scene. On a typical night, Praguers head out for dinner at a pub (sometimes called Bar Cafe) and just stay there the entire night, drinking beer, smoking cigarettes (indoors, it never gets old) and munching on cold snacks like pickled sausage and fried cheese. Pubs stay open late (midnight Mondays-Wednesdays, 2-4am Thursdays-Saturdays, midnight Sundays) and clubs stay open to 4am or later most night of the week.
Booze across the Czech Republic comes at prices comparable to what you pay for air, but especially cheap and especially delicious are Prague’s fire waters: Fernet tastes like a less-syrupy Jagermeister; Becherovka tastes like Christmas in your mouth, and Plum Vodka, tastes--well, the point isn’t the taste with the plum vodka.
Nights out in Prague are especially incredible, given that some nights, you can come home completely wasted having spent seven or eight euro. But drink responsibly. Drunk Americans especially become the targets of pickpockets and puking tourists will piss off the tourist police. And then you’ll have to sit in the van.
Nové Město
ZACHRAŇTE O2 BAR Karlovo náměstí
CHILLOUT BAR
60 814 4344 www.o2bar.cz
This tiny cabana in the middle of Charles Square Park fits just four cocktail tables. Space is so tight the nightly DJs set their decks on a foosball table in the corner. But it still packs such a huge punch that crowds spill out into the park onto the roof terrace. There’s no drink service on the roof, so you’ll just have to chill with the punks rolling their own cigarettes and enjoy the surreal view of the New Town Hall lookout tower. Somehow they also fit a kitchen in this place serving cowards a hot dog or some nuts (15-35Kč), while the brave undertake the Delicate Stuffed Cheese with True Story (55Kč). Tell your friends to check the bar’s website to see you rocking out on a live web cam.
B: Karlovo náměstí. Exit the station on the side closest to New Town Hall and walk 1 block to the north side of the park. Beer 25-40Kč. Mixed drinks 35-80Kč. Open daily 10am-whenever the party stops.
U SUDU
Vodičkova 677/10
BAR, CLUB
222 23 22 07 www.usudu.cz
From the street, U Sudu seems to be a low key five-table pub with a single bar. But if you take the strangely inviting stairway at the back of the club, you’ll encounter a large underground pub space. And if you take the enormous brick tunnel leading out of there, you’ll find yet another space. And it kind of keeps going like this—snaking below the street in labyrynthine tunnels. It would be easy to spend a night here and not visit all of the different rooms, each of which has a slightly different vibe. Just hope there isn’t a fire. In addition to regular drinks, U Sudu has Master 18 proof (38Kč) on tap.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head north towards New Town Tower along the eastern side of the park. Continue past New Town Hall along Vodičkova. The bar will be on your right. Snacks 10-55Kč. Beer 23-55Kč. Open M-Th 9am-4am, F 9am-5am, Sa 10am-5am, Su 10am-3am.
CLUB PRDEL
Žitná 4, 120 00 Praha 2
DANCE CLUB
22 223 0890 www.prdelclub.cz
Like the milk bar of Kubrick’s “A Clockwork Orange,” this sweaty young dance club serves wild nectars amid rather accurate busts of women’s rumps, hips and etc. Older (lamer) patrons can chill upstairs sucking on the bitter “Cum of Cucumber” (185Kč) or the vanilla vodka-based “Orgasmus” (120Kč), while others can head downtairs for a smoky, steamy romp in the juices of youth. Dress for the occasion: ’cause it’s close quarters downstairs and when the second DJ gets spinning, this energetic young crowd makes the temp go up. When 6am rolls around, take five in the “special room” behind the curtains. What you do there is your choice--but there are no chairs, only pillows and bean bags.
B: Karlovo náměstí. From the station, head away from the river down Zitna. The club is on your right. No dress code, but you’ll feel out of place in shorts. Beer 40-80Kč. Mixed drinks 120-185Kč. M-Sa 5pm-7am, Su 5pm-5am.
WHISKERIA V
Jindřišské Věž
WHISKEY BAR
22 424 8645 www.whiskeria.cz
Travelers who hate dancing, or who don’t have legs, will love this brand new whiskey bar where a night can be spent sampling the fruits of rye’s labor. Whiskeria offers over 450 varieties of the liquor at prices that are both student-friendly (100Kč) and billionaire-friendly (10,000Kč). If malts are all Greek to you, fret not. The bartenders have graduated from booze university and are eager to share their knowledge. You can check their website for classes and tastings. If whiskey’s not your thing, they also have other drinks. Non-smoking seathing is available.
A or B: Můstek. From the station, head away from the river down Jindřišské. It’s in the giant tower at the end of the street. Whiskey tastings F. Drinks 100-10000Kč. Open daily 10am-midnight or later.
CLUB STŘELEC
Žitná 51, Praha 2
CLUB
60 694 7673
&
nbsp; This low-key GLBT hangout is so happy with the small set of locals it serves, it almost refused to be listed. A night at this ace hole-in-the-wall where students mix with septuagenarians could end over beers and traded stories or on top of the tables with an impromptu elderly strip tease. Ask the one bartender who speaks English for authentic Czech drinks like the Bloody Back, a combo of cherry liqueur and vodka drunk simultaneously from two separate shot glasses. But be warned, this pub does cater to seniors as well as students, so don’t go looking for too wild a time.
C: I.P. Pavlova. From the station, head north on Legerova and make a left on Žitná. The club is on your right. Beer 17-31Kč. Mixed drinks 25-50Kč. Happy hour daily 5-8pm.
ROCKY O’REILLYS
Štěpánská 32/620 Praha 1
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 45