MONTMARTRE
01 53 09 82 82 www.moulin-rouge.com
Ever since Christina and Co.’s music video, the only thing people associate with “Moulin Rouge” is that universal question: “Voulez-vous couchez avec moi?” But the world-famous cabaret and setting for the song and film isn’t just about sex; it’s also about glam and glitz. Since its opening in 1889, the Moulin Rouge has hosted international superstars like Ella Fitzgerald and Johnny Rey, and now welcomes a fair crowd of tourists for an evening of sequins, tassels, and skin. The shows remain risqué, but the price of admission is prohibitively expensive. The late show is cheaper, but be prepared to stand if it’s a busy night.
Blanche. Elegant attire required; no shorts, sneakers, or sportswear permitted. Ticket for 9pm show €102, 11pm €92; includes half-bottle of champagne. 7pm dinner and 9pm show €150-180. Occasional lunch shows €100-130; call for more info. Dinner at 7pm. Shows nightly 9, 11pm.
Cinema
L’ARLEQUIN
76 rue de Rennes
LATIN QUARTER, ST-GERMAIN
01 45 44 28 80
A proud revival theater, L’Arlequin goes heavy on the Hitchcock, mixing in other classic European films and some more modern French selections. The same three films are featured each week, undoubtedly decreasing the prevalence of adolescent movie-hopping. Some films are in English, but beware of certain dubbed selections.
Saint-Sulpice. €9.50; from M to F afternoon, students and big families €6.50; under 18 €6.50.
Music
ELYSÉE MONTMARTRE
72 bld. Rochechouart
MONTMARTRE
01 44 92 45 36 www.elyseemontmartre.com
Any hip-hop nerd will remember this historic music hall in the Roots’ hit song, “You Got Me”: “She said she loved my show in Paris at Elysée Montmartre/and that I stepped off the stage and took a piece of her heart.” Catch various hip-hop, soul, reggae, rock, indie, and underground acts here.
Anvers. Prices vary, but generally €13.80-45. Hall opens at 11:30pm for all shows.
POINT EPHÉMÈRE
200 quai de Valmy
CANAL ST-MARTIN
01 40 34 02 48 www.pointephemere.org
A continuously changing, grungy bar/restaurant/concert hall/dance studio/artist residence, where non-conformity and cigarettes reign supreme. Music acts are usually lesser known. On a concert night, the 300-seat space is packed with guys who collect tattoos and girls who tote helmets instead of purses.
Jaures. Don’t walk back late alone. Tickets prices vary per show. Open M-Sa noon-2am, Su 1-9pm.
Opera
OPÉRA DE LA BASTILLE
pl. de la Bastille
BASTILLE
08 92 89 90 90 www.operadeparis.fr
The Opéra Garnier’s “ugly” other half, the Opéra de la Bastille tends to do pieces with a more modern spin. Though the building’s decor is somewhat questionable, the operas and ballets tend to be breathtaking enough to compensate. There may not be gilded columns, but you’ll still feel like you’re at the opera. The 2010-2011 season will include the operas Siegfried and Akhmatova, and the ballets Romeo and Juliet and Swan Lake.
Bastille. For wheelchair-access, call 2 weeks ahead 01 40 01 18 50. Tickets can be purchased by Internet, mail, phone, or in person. Rush tickets 15min. before show for students under 25 and seniors. Tickets €5-200. Box office open M-Sa 10:30am-6:30pm.
OPÉRA GARNIER
pl. de l’Opéra
OPÉRA
08 92 89 90 90 www.operadeparis.fr
Imagine The Opéra (capital T, capital O) in Paris; now go to the Opéra Garnier. Hosts mostly ballet, chamber music, and symphonies.
Opéra. Tickets usually available 2 weeks before the show. For wheelchair access call 2 weeks ahead. Ticket prices vary; operas €7-160, ballets €6-80. Box office open M-Sa 10:30am-6:30pm. Last-minute discount tickets go on sale 1hr. before show.
SHOPPING
Depending on who you’re talking to, Shopping and Paris are almost synonymous. It can be hard to keep yourself from going crazy, but you probably should (nobody likes credit card debt).
look, but no touchy
Below you’ll find a list of the big names that you automatically associate with the Paris shopping scene. Unless you found a Parisian sugar daddy (and props to you if you did) you probably won’t be leaving with much, but who doesn’t like looking at pretty things? Salespeople won’t be jumping to help you, but they’ll gladly answer your questions if you ask nicely.
• CARTIER (23 pl. Vendôme 01 44 55 32 20 www.cartier.com Tuile ries.)
• CHANEL (42 av. Montaigne 01 47 23 74 12 www.chanel.com Franklin D. Roosevelt.)
• CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN (19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau 01 42 36 05 31 www.christianlouboutin.com Les Halles or Louvre Rivoli.)
• DIOR (8 pl. Vendôme 01 42 96 30 84 www.dior.com Tuileries.)
• GIVENCHY (56 rue François 1er 01 43 59 71 25 www.givenchy.fr George V.)
• GUCCI (60 av. Montaigne 01 56 69 80 80 www.gucci.com Franklin D. Roosevelt.)
• HERMÈS (24 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré 01 40 17 47 17 www.hermes.com Madeleine.)
• JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER (44 av. George V 01 44 43 00 44 www.jeanpaulgaultier.com Charles de Gaulle-Étoile.)
• LOUIS-VUITTON (101 av. des Champs-Elysées 01 53 57 52 00 www.louisvuitton.com Charles de Gaulle-Étoile.)
• VALENTINO (27 rue Faubourg St-Honoré 01 42 66 95 94 www.valentino.com Madeleine.)
• VERSACE (45 av. Montaigne 01 47 42 88 02 www.versace.com Franklin D. Roosevelt.)
• YVES SAINT-LAURENT (32 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré 01 53 05 80 80 www.ysl.com Madeleine.)
Books
SHAKESPEARE AND CO.
37 rue de la Bûcherie
LATIN QUARTER, ST-GERMAIN
01 43 25 40 93 www.shakespeareco.org
Shakespeare and Co. is an absolutely lovable English-language bookshop and miniature socialist utopia. Scenes from the film Before Sunset were shot here. Allegedly, the owners allow passing “tumbleweeds” to sleep for free, provided they volunteer in the shop and read a book a day. An adjacent storefront holds an impressive collection of first editions, with empahsis on the Beat Generation.
St-Michel. Bargain bins outside include French classics translated into English. Open M-F 10am-11pm, Sa-Su 11am-11pm.
ABBEY BOOKSHOP
29 rue de la Parcheminerie
LATIN QUARTER, ST-GERMAIN
01 46 33 16 24 www.abbeybookshop.net
Clear your afternoon; if you’re going to to Abbey Bookshop, you’ll need the time. Set in a back alley, you’ll need a few minutes to get used to the sheer number of books surrounding you. With a collection that includes everything from Why Sex is Fun, to Bin Laden: Behind the Mask of a Terrorist, this Canadian-owned shop probably has what you’re looking for, and if not they’ll order it for you. Plus they carry Let’s Go—they’ve obviously got the right idea.
St-Michel or Cluny. Books in English and other langauges available. Open M-Sa 10am-7pm.
Clothes and Accessories
LA SAMARITAINE
67 rue de Rivoli
CHTELET-LES HALLES
08 00 01 00 15 www.lasamaritaine.com
Spanning three blocks of the city’s prime real estate, La Samaritaine is one of the oldest and most obnoxiously large department stores in Paris, 48,000 square meters of shopping space. The department store was founded in 1869 when Ernest Cognacq, a street salesman who had tired of selling his gentlemens’ ties on the often rainy and windy Pont Neuf, decided to bring his operation indoors. La Samaritaine helped usher in the age of conspicuous consumption with an unforgettable slogan: “one finds everything at La Samaritaine.” The roof cafe, accessible by a quick elevator ride, has a fantastic, free view of the city. Although the building was renovated in 1928, it closed indefinitely in 2006 for security renovations; murmurs of a reopening in late 2011 have been heard, but those are about as reliable as any other construction timel
ine in France (read: very unreliable). Check online for progress. Châtelet/Pont Neuf. Closed for renovation. Information available M-F 10am-6pm.
FORUM LES HALLES
Les Halles
CHTELET-LES HALLES
08 25 02 00 20 www.forumdeshalles.com
Like most of Paris’s monuments, Les Halles history is closely tied to the whims of French royalty and, later on, its politicians. The mall began as a small food market in 1135; Philippe Auguste and, later, Louis-Philippe and François I all considered Les Halles a sort of pet project, and its expansion soon surpassed their expectations. The forum and gardens above ground attract a large crowd. Descend into the pits of one of Paris’s storied historical sites to discover its bastard American child; a 200-boutique shopping mall (plus three move theaters), with selections ranging from the Gap, to H&M, to Franck Provost.
Les Halles. open M-Sa 10am-8pm.
Vintage
FREE ‘P’ STAR
8 rue Ste-Croix de la Bretonnerie
MARAIS
01 42 76 03 72 www.freepstar.com
Enter as Plain Jane and leave a star—from the ’80s or ’90s, that is. Wide selection of vintage dresses (€20), velvet blazers (€40), boots (€30), and military-style jackets (€5) that all seem like a good idea when surrounded by other antiquated pieces, but require some balls to be worn out in the open. There’s no way to go wrong with the €10 jean pile and €3 bin.
Hôtel de Ville. Credit card min. €20. 2nd location at 61 rue de la Verrerie ( 01 42 78 0 76). Open M-Sa noon-11pm, Su 2-11pm.
ADOM
35 and 56 rue de la Roquette
BASTILLE
01 48 07 15 94 or 01 43 57 54 92
Think of every canonical high school film you’ve ever seen: Fast Times at Ridgemont High, The Breakfast Club, Napoleon Dynamite. The selection at Adom seems to be made up of the wardrobe department from all of them. Cowboy boots, acid wash jeans, and letterman jackets are in ample supply here. It’s like totally awesome, duh.
Bastille. Boots from €35. Cut-offs €15. Open M-Sa 11am-8pm, Su 3-8pm.
Specialty
PYLÔNES
57 rue St-Louis-en-l’Île
MARAIS
01 46 34 05 02 www.pylones.com
An adult version of a toy store with the kind of spunky things you’ll impulsively buy, never need, but always marvel at. Like graters topped with doll heads (€18). More useful, but just as fun items include cigarette cases (€12)—you’re in Paris now, tobacco’s a part of growing up—and espresso cups (€6). The playful, artful objects are fun to look at even if you don’t get any.
Pont Marie. 5 other locations around the city. Cups €6. Wallets €24. Open daily 10:30am-7:30pm.
LA GRANDE ÉPICERIE DE PARIS
38 rue de Sèvres
INVALIDES
The butcher actually has a thin twirled mustache. We thought only cartoon French people looked like that.
Vaneau. No pets allowed. Water €30. This place is way too expensive for you. Open M-Sa 8:30am-9pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURS: Bateaux-Mouches (Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma, Rive droite 01 76 99 73 www.bateaux-mouches.fr Pont de l’Alma. Free parking throughout the duration of the cruise. Tours in English. €10, children under 12 €5. Apr-Sept 10:15am-7pm, every 20min. 7-11pm; Oct-Mar 11am-9pm, weekends 10:15am-9pm.) City Segway Tours. (24 rue Edgar Faure 01 56 58 10 54 www.citysegwaytours.com/paris. All tours leave from beneath the Eiffel Tower and last 4-5hr. €80. Daily 9:30am, Mar-Dec daily 9:30am and 2pm.) Canauxrama (13 Quai de la Loire 01 42 39 15 00 www.canauxrama.com Bastille (Marina Arsenal) or Jaurés (Bassin de la Villette). Reservations recommended. Ticket desk open 40min. before departure or buy online. Departures either from Marina Arsenal or Bassin de la Villette. €16, students €11, children under 12 €8.50, under 4 free. Both locations with tours 9am-11pm.) Fat Tire Bike Tours (24 rue Edgar Faure 01 56 58 10 54 www.fattirebiketours.com Tours last 4hr. €28, students €26 Day tour daily Oct-Mar 11am; Apr-Nov 11am, 3pm. Night tour Mar-Apr daily 6pm; Apr-Nov daily 7pm; Nov Tu, Th, Sa, Su 6pm.)
• DISABILITY RESOURCES: L’Association des Paralysées de France, Délégation de Paris. In addition to promoting disabled individual’s fundamental rights to state compensation, public transportation, and handicapped-conscious jobs, the association also organizes international and provencial vacations. (17-19 bld. Auguste Blanqui 01 40 78 00 00)
• TICKET SERVICES: FNAC. (74 av. des Champs-Élysées 01 53 53 64 64 www.fnac.fr Franklin D. Roosevelt. Also at 77-81, bld. St-Germain; 109 Porte Berger; 30 av. d’Italie, 13ème; 136 rue de Rennes, 6ème; 109 rue St-Lazare, 9ème; 26-30 av. de Ternes, 17ème. Open M-Sa 10am-11:45pm, Su noon-11:45pm.) Virgin Megastore. (52 av. des Champs-Élysées, 8ème 01 49 53 50 00 www.virginmegastore.fr Franklin D. Roosevelt. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm.)
• INTERNET: The American Library provides free internet access for all members and those with day and week passes. Wireless internet available throughout library. Ask circulation desk for assistance. (10 rue de Général Camou, 7ème 01 53 59 12 60 www.americanlibraryinparis.org École Militaire. Open Tu-Sa 10am-7pm, Su 1-7pm. Reduced summer hours July-Aug. Reference desk closed Su.)
Emergency!
• EMERGENCY NUMBERS: Police: 17 (for emergencies only). Ambulance (SAMU): 15. Fire: 18. Poison: 01 40 05 48 48 (In French, but some English assistance available). Rape: 08 00 05 95 95. ( Open M-F 10am-7pm.) SOS Help! (17) is an emergency hotline for english speakers in crisis.
• CRISIS HOTLINES: AIDES is the first French association against HIV/AIDs and viral hepatitis. (0800 84 08 00 www.aides.org Open 24hr.) Alcoholics Anonymous. (01 46 34 59 65 www.aaparis.org) Red RCross France provides HIV testing. (43 rue de Valois, 1er 01 42 61 30 04 www.croix-rouge.fr Palais-Royal or Bourse.) International Counseling Service. (01 45 50 26 49 www.icsparis.com.)
• HOSPITAL/MEDICAL SERVICES: American Hospital of Paris. (63 bld. Hugo, Neuilly 01 46 41 25 25 wwww.american-hospital.org Port Maillot, then bus #82.) Hôpital Bichat. (46 rue Henri Buchard, 18ème 01 40 25 80 80 Port St-Ouen.)
Getting There
By Plane
Paris has three main airports: Roissy-Charles de Gaulle, Orly, and Beauvais.
ROISSY-CHARLES DE GAULLE (ROISSY-CDG)
23km northeast of Paris
AIRPORT
01 40 28 09 39 www.adp.fr
Most transatlantic flights land at Aéroport Roissy-CDG. The two cheapest and fastest ways to get into the city from there are by RER and by bus. The RER train from Roissy-CDG to Paris leaves from the Roissy train station, which is in Terminal 2. To get to the station from Terminal 1, take the Red Line of the Navette, a free shuttle bus that leaves every 6-10min. From there, the RER B (one of the Parisian commuter rail lines) will transport you to central Paris. To transfer to the metro, get off at Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les-Halles, or Saint-Michel, all of which are RER and metro stops. The trip should take 35min. in either direction.
Taking a shuttle bus the whole distance from the airport to Paris is simple, and it takes about the same amount of time as taking the RER. The Roissybus (01 49 25 61 87) leaves from rue Scribe at Place de l’Opéra every 15min. during the day and every 20min. at night. You can catch the Roissybus from Terminals 1, 2, and 3 of the airport from 6am to 11pm. Roissybus is not wheelchair accessible.
Open 24hrs.
ORLY
18km south of Paris
AIRPORT
01 49 75 15 15
Aéroport d’Orly is used by charters and many continental flights. From Orly Sud gate G or gate I, platform 1, or Orly Ouest level G, gate F, take the Orly-Rail shuttle bus to the Pont de Rungls/Aéroport d’Orly train stop, where you can board the RER C2 for a number of destinations in Paris. Another option is the RATP Orlybus (08 36 68 77 14), which runs between Metro and RER stop Denfert-Rochereau (lines 4 and 6) in the 14ème and Orly’s south terminal. You can also board the Orlybus at Dareau-St-Jacques, Glacière-Tolbiac, and Porte de Gentil
ly.
RATP also runs Orlyval (01 69 93 53 00)—a combination of Metro, RER, and VAL rail shuttle—which is probably your fastest option. The VAL shuttle goes from Antony (RER line B) to Orly Ouest and Sud. You can either get a ticket just for the VAL, or combination VAL-RER tickets. Buy tickets at any RATP booth in the city, or from the Orlyval agencies at Orly Ouest, Orly Sud, and Antony. To Orly: Be careful; it splits into two lines right before the Antony stop. Get on the train that says “St-Rémy-Les-Chevreuse” or just look for the track that has a lit-up sign saying “Antony-Orly.” From Orly: Trains arrive at Orly Ouest 2min. after reaching Orly Sud.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 60