From the city center, take bus #3 down Cours Gambetta until the Les 3 Sautets stop. Walk along av. Malacrida, and the campground is on your right. Signs point the way. 1 person €12.55. 2 people €19.20; €6.40 per person thereafter. Open Apr-Sept. Gates open daily 8am-8pm. Otherwise, personal keys given upon request with a €10 deposit. Quiet hour 11pm.
SIGHTS
FONDATION VASARELY
1 av. Marcel Pagnol
MUSEUM
04 42 20 01 09 www.fondationvasarely.org
It’s like nothing you’ve ever seen before; after all, the very act of seeing changes the dizzying shapes before your eyes. The father of optical-illusion art, the Hungarian-born French artist Vasarely wanted to bring about the “polychromatic city of happiness” with his massive creations of funky geometric forms in vibrant block colors, and the crazy shapes in this gallery can’t help but make you happy in any of the museum’s eight alcoves, each of which is its own colorful universe. Gestalt Blue #164 in the “homage to the hexagon” room is an especially cool take on the möbius strip. In addition to the permanent collection, the gallery also holds exhibits of the most avant-garde art around.
Take bus #4 from pl. de la Rotonde to Vasarely. The museum is the very modern building next to the youth hostel, where you’re most likely staying. €9, students €6. Open T-Su 10am-1pm and 2-6pm.
CHEMIN DE CÉZANNE/ L’ATELIER DE CÉZANNE
9 av. Paul Cézanne
MUSEUM
04 42 21 06 53 www.atelier-cezanne.com
Golden markers trace the footsteps of the artist on a 2hr. walking tour of the old city. Lounge at Le Cafe Des Deux Garçons (53 Cours Mirabeau, #3 on the route)or marvel at the stained glass of the Cathédrale St-Saveur (#31). In fact, the tour is a good way to get to know Aix’s old city in general, since there are few streets Cézanne didn’t grace with his presence. Unfortunately, most sights along the tour are only the facades of private bulidings, so the real gem is the last stop: L’Atelier de Cézanne, the Impressionist’s recreated studio. World-famous wrinkled fruit, a green jug, and a rum bottle sit where Cézanne painted them, and his beret still hangs in the far corner. Staff in the studio are there to answer all questions in fluent English, and the wild garden around the studio transforms in the summer into a performance space for hip music and theater.
Pick up a walking tour from the tourist office to trace Cézanne’s footsteps in Aix. For the Atelier, take rue Gaston de Saporta uphill from pl. L’Hotel de Ville until it leaves the old city and turns into av. Pasteur. Keep walking straight and take the right street when the road forks. Walk 10min. uphill on Av. Paul Cézanne and the studio is on your left. The path is well signed. €5.50, students €2. Open July-Aug daily 10am-6pm; Oct-Mar daily 10am-noon and 2-5pm; Apr-June daily 10am-noon and 2-6pm.
LA CITÉ DU LIVRE
8-10 rue des Allumettes
HISTORIC MONUMENT
04 42 91 98 88 www.citedulivre-aix.com
The heart of Aix’s literary life can be found in an industrial factory that once produced matches and now invites the likes of Salman Rushdie and Nobel Laureate V. S. Naipaul to give public readings and lectures. The building is also home to the Méjanes Library, named for the Marquis de Méjanes, a passionate bibliophile who bequeathed his collection to the public in 1790. Since then, the library’s stock has only grown and now impressively includes a 40m tall copy of Le Petit Prince at the main entrance. In addition to the wonderful books, CDs, and DVDs on loan, the library has the official archives of Albert Camus, a permanent exhibit on Émile Zola, bimonthly festivals, and creative special events. Free internet and tons of study spaces mean the desks are full around exam time. Check the website to see if the festivals coincide with your visit.
From pl. de la Rotonde, walk downhill on av. des Belges until the traffic circle. Turn right onto av. L’Europe and at the next traffic circle turn right again. La Cité du Livre is immediately on the left. Open Tu noon-6pm, W 10am-6pm, Th-F noon-6pm, Sa 10am-6pm. Additional hours for festivals and readings. Centre Albert Camus open Tu-Sa 2-6pm.
MUSÉE GRANET
pl. St-Jean de Malte
MUSEUM
04 52 52 88 32 www.museegranet-aixenprovence.fr
The large and excellent permanent collection includes nearly 600 works of art, with an emphasis on the French school from the 17th to the 19th centuries. There are rooms with titanic oil paintings of Roman gods and the picturesque pastoral landscapes that typically come to mind when you imagine French art. The room of oil paintings by Aix’s favorite native son, Paul Cézanne, is exciting, but you’ll beg for more; nine paintings really isn’t enough. Temporary exhibits fill the other half of the museum, change annually, and are guaranteed to display someone important.
From pl. de la Rotonde, walk up Cours Mirabeau until the end. Turn right onto rue d’Italie and follow the signs for the the museum 2 blocks ahead and to the right. Exhibits change year to year, but permanent exhibits are grouped thematically. €6, students, handicapped, and under 25 €4. Audio tour €3, students €1. Open Tu-W 10am-7pm, Th noon-10pm, F-Su 10am-7pm.
CATHÉDRALE SAINT-SAVEUR
pl. de l’Université
CHURCH
Because construction happened over the course of an entire millenium, there are multiple stylistic elements fused into this mega-church. Begun in the fifth century, the cathedral received its clock in 1430, its Gothic facade in the 1500s, and the Baroque chapel in the 16th century. Through the wooden doors, you’ll find a dark, cavernous, and awe-inspiring interior with a famous triptych painted by Nicholas Fromant called Brusson Ardent. There’s a room of Roman sculptures by the door as well as the oldest baptistry that still functions in all of France.
On rue Gaston de Saporta, uphill from pl. de l’Hotel de Ville. Open daily 8am-noon and 2-6pm. Mass M-Sa 8am, Su 10:30am and 7pm.
FOOD
Aix’s centre ville is practically all restaurants, which means the city boasts an intensely comprehensive selection of international and Provençal cuisines. The food may be good, but the desserts are even better. The city’s staple bonbon is the calisson d’Aix, an iced almond-and-candied-melon treat. Other specialties include merveilles de Provence, which are pralines with kirsch and chocolate available only at Christmastime, and any number of magnificent pastries, notably the decadent trianon, at the 200-year-old Pâtissier Riederer (67 Cours Mirabeau 04 42 66 90 91 €3.80.) At dinnertime, tables crowd pl. Ramus and pl. des Cardeurs. For a place to see and be seen, nothing is better than one of the cafes or restaurants on Cours Mirabeau. Fruit and vegetable markets are at pl. de l’Hôtel de Ville, pl. Richelme ( Open daily 7am-1pm) and pl. de la Mairie ( Open Tu 7am-1pm, Th 7am-1pm, Sa 7am-1pm.) Three Petit Casinos serve all your supermarket needs: 5 rue Gaston de Saporta ( Open M-Sa 8am-8pm), 16 rue d’Italia ( Open Tu-Su 8am-9pm) and 3 Cours d’Orbitelle. ( Open M-F 8am-1pm and 4-8pm, Sa 8am-1pm and 4-:7:30pm.)
BRUNCH
4 rue Portalis
PROVENÇAL
06 98 36 00 76
Five tables, a glass counter of fresh food, and two women. That’s all it takes to produce beautiful Provençal cuisine in this tiny lunch place. The salads are a meal in themselves, with tuna, chicken, goat cheese, or avocado resting on top of a deep bowl of grated carrots, cabbage, onion, lettuce, and potato. For a heartier meal, order a quiche or the perfectly priced plat du jour, which is usually a meat dish. And if you only have €2.50 to spend for the day, skip right to dessert, since the strawberries in crème anglaise are too good to eat in public. The nursery-rhyme paintings contribute to the joyful ambience, but most of the joy radiates from the grandmotherly woman bustling about to serve your food.
Follow rue d’Italie all the way to pl. des Pecheurs. Turn right onto rue Portalis and look for the grandmotherly figure bustling in the window. Lunch €4-7.50. Dessert €2.50. Open M-F 10am-7:30pm, Sa 10am-5pm.
PASTA COSY
5 rue D’Entrecasteaux
PASTA
04 42 38 02 28
Pasta, pasta everywhere, and all of it to eat. This chic restaurant makes good on its promise of toutes les pâtes du monde. Homemade pastas like fiochetti (purses) are cooked in woks with eclectic ingredients borrowed from kitchens of the world, but the hunk of reggiano grated freshly onto your noodles still says old-fashioned Italian. A tapas menu also offers tasting portions of dill crème brulée, risotto, samosas, and other fusion dishes.
From pl. de la Rotone, walk up rue des Espariat until a left turn onto rue des Tanneurs. Walk straight and take your 3rd left onto what looks like a mostly residential street. The restaurant is on your left. Pastas €14-19. Open daily 7pm-midnight.
AUX DÉLICES DU LEBAN
33 rue Lieutaud
LEBANESE
04 42 26 79 91
This little restaurant serves delicious and well-priced Lebanese basics, including hummus, baba ganoush, and plates of meaty brochettes. Much of the food is cooked on a decades-old baker’s oven in the back of the kitchen. In the warm weather, head straight to the terrace seating area.
At the very bottom of pl. des Cardeurs once it hits rue Lieutaud. Mezzes appetizers €6-6.50. Plates 12-13.50. Open daily noon-2pm and 7-11pm.
JACQUOU LE CROQUANT
2 rue de L’Aumone Vielle
PROVENÇAL
04 42 27 37 19
If the French take their dining very seriously, then family-run Jacquou Le Croquant tries to out-French them all with an introduction to their menu that waxes philosophical on le plaisir de manger (the pleasure of eating) and le plaisir de diner (the pleasure of dining.) The restaurateurs insist on both pleasures, with an abundance of tender game meats like duck and goose in creamy sauces that are served at casual tables in the backyard of an apartment building. The plat du jour has the best price tag, but ordering a la carte guarantees a dinner right out of the oven.
Left turn into pl. Ramus of rue Bédarride. Follow the road right, then left. Le Croquant is past the group of restaurants on the right. Salads €9-14. Plates €14-17. Plat du jour €10. Open daily noon-3pm and 7-11pm.
NIGHTLIFE
Crowds of students during the year and festival-goers in the summer make partying a year-round pastime in Aix. The nightlife picks up on Tuesday and rocks on until Saturday. Locals and visitors can be found in cafes and bars until closing time at 2am, when the party moves to Aix’s clubs. On any given summer weekend, it feels like every seat is taken in the cafes and bars in pl. de la Richelme, pl. des Cardeurs, and, of course, along the central Cours Mirabeau. As the bars close, student clubs open their doors. Unfortunately, the only option for gay travelers in Aix is Mediterranean Boy (5 rue de la Paix. Turn left on rue Vanloo at the top of Cours Sextius and make your next left onto rue de la Paix 04 42 27 21 47 Open 10pm-late.) Since most gay travelers head to Marseille for nightlife, the bar doesn’t see too much action.
LE MISTRAL
3 rue Frédéric Mistral
CLUB
04 42 38 16 49 www.mistraclub.fr
Your nightly literary and geography lessons: Frédéric Mistral was a Nobel-Prize winning poet whose last name refers to a characteristic west wind that has blown through Provence for millennia. What does that have to do with Aix’s most popular nightclub? Not much. Other than the fact that you’ll beg for a breeze when the dancing hot bodies around you get too hot. Plus, this super chic club has hosted DJs like Bob Sinclair and and Carl Cox, modern-day poets on the club circuit. Everyday DJs Nikko and Moussa spin house, R and B, and hip hop for the crowds. Themes like ’80s and ’90s, electro, and ladies’ night. Dress to impress.
Immediately off Cours Mirabeau on rue Frédéric Mistral. Ladies’ Night Tu. Check website for other theme nights. Cover for guys €20; girls usually get in free. Gender equality hasn’t reached Le Mistral just yet. Drinks €10. Bottles €125. Open nightly midnight-6am.
LE SEXTIUS BAR
61 cours Sextius
BAR, CAFE
A modern-day Batman in bar format, Le Sextius is an unassuming cafe by day and a life-saving student bar by night. The bartenders might not be superheroes, but the combo of frothy beer and live musicians on weekends will rescue your night from the grip of evil Dr. Banality. Regrettably, the Roman philosopher Sextius, a Stoic and the bar’s namesake, would probably disapprove of the frolicking crowds that spread up and down the street in summer time.
From pl. de la Rotonde, walk along av. Bonaparte and turn right onto Cours Sextius. The bar is ahead on your right. Beer €2.20-5. Cocktails €7. Open daily 9pm-2am.
LE CUBA LIBRE
4 bld. Carnot
CLUB
04 42 63 05 21 www.cuba-libre-aix.com
Le Cuba Libre used to be a taste of island life with cigars and tropical beverages. Used to be, that is, until the manager gave the place a full makeover, turning former communist fun into a sleek and silvery bar that’s meant for casual dancing to the live DJ and blue lights. Castro hasn’t left the building just yet, since Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday are salsa nights (9pm.) Tell the gregarious bartender, Yass, that he’s the best in Aix and you’ll make his night. Maybe he’ll return the favor with a free drink?
From pl. de la Rotonde take av. Victor Hugo until a left turn on bld. du Roi René. Le Cuba Libre is a 10min walk straight ahead. Salsa night M-W 9pm. Beer €4.50. Cocktails €9. Liquor €2.50-7. 50. Bottles €72-90. Open M-F 5pm-2am, Sa-Su 1pm-2am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Offers a huge number of services, including maps, walking tours, pamphlets on art and culture, a city guide for university students, apartment listings, and an entire desk dedicated to helping with accommodations searching. (2 pl. du Général de Gaulle 04 42 16 11 61 www.aixenprovencetourism.com) Daily tours are organized to Marseille (€49), the lavender fields of Luberon (€59), and Van Gogh heritage sights in Arles (€69). The Aix Pass gets discounts at museums, concerts, and sights (€2.) Public bus passes are sold here as well (04 42 26 37 28 www.aixenbus.com Open M-Sa 8:30am-7pm, Su 10am-1pm and 2-6pm.) The office also houses Ticket Sales for Aix’s concerts (04 42 161 170 Open M-Sa 9am-noon and 2-6pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Change de l’Agence. Accepts traveler’s checks. (15 cours Mirabeau 04 42 26 84 77 Open M-F 9am-noon and 2-6:30pm, Sa 9am-noon and 2-5pm.)
• LOST PROPERTY: SOS Voyageurs. (04 91 62 12 80)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Point Com (6 rue Gaston de Saporta €6 per hr. Open M-F 10am-1pm and 2-6:30pm, Sa 10am-1pm.)
• POST OFFICE: Place Hotel de Ville. Poste restante and Western Union inside. ( Open M 8:30am-4pm, Tu 8:30am-12:15pm and 1:30-6pm, W-F 8:30am-4pm, Sa 8:30am-12:30pm.) The Principal Post Office is at the corner of rue Lapierre and av. des Belges one block south of pl. de la Rotonde.
Emergency!
• POLICE: Police Municipale. (2 cours des Minimes 04 42 91 91 11, or the general number 17.)
• HOSPITAL: Centre Hospitalier Du Pays D’Aix. (av. des Tamaris. A 10min. walk north of the old city center on av. Pasteur. Emergency line 04 42 33 90 28.)
• AMBULANCE: 15. SOS Medecins. (04 42 26 24 00.) Doctors on-call for home visits.
• PHARMACY: There are pharmacies every 2 blocks along cours Mirabeau and a collection of 3 at pl. des chapeliers. Among them is Pharmacie du Cours Mirabeau (17 cours Mirabeau 04 42 93 63 60 Open M-F 8:30am-7:30pm.) For night service, call the Commissariat ( 04 42 93 97 00) and they will contact the pharmacie de garde (24hr. pharmacy) for that night. For weekend service, check the list of rotating pharmacies de garde (open 9am-2pm) posted outside all pharmacies in Aix. Otherwise, call the Commissariat.
Getting There
By Train
The Gare SNCF train station is located at at Pl. Gustave des Places, and services regional trains (36 35. Automatic ticketing window open daily 7am-7pm. Reservation and info offices open M-Sa 9am-6pm.) To: Marseille ( €5.30-7. 40min., 27 per day); Cannes ( €31. 3½hr., 25 per day.); Nice. (€34.40. 3-4 hr., 25 per day.) Note that train numbers decrease substantially on weekends. The Gare d’Aix-en-Pr
ovence TGV is located 20min. outside of the city, and connects travelers to major cities throughout France via the TGB. To Paris Charles de Gaulle ( €80-110. 3-5 hr. depending on whether you go direct, 18 per day). The Gare TGV can be reached by shuttles from the bus stations ( €5. 20min., every 10min.)
By Bus
Gare Routière (av. de l’Europe.08 91 02 40 25.Info desk open M-F 7:30am-7:30-m, Sa 7:30am-12:30pm and 1:30-6pm.) To: Marseille (www.navetteaixmarseille.com. €5. 30 min., theNavette Rapideruns from 6: 10am-8:10pm roughly every 10min. Less frequent early morning service from 5:45am and night service until 11:30pm.); Nice ( €30. 2½hr., 9am, 10:55am, 1:20pm, 2:30pm and 6pm); Avignon ( €14.70. 1¼hr., run daily 8:30am, M-F 7am, 8:30am, 11:30am, 1pm, 5pm, and 6:45pm.); Arles ( 1hr.; runs daily 10am, 2pm, and 6:15pm, M-F 6am, 6:50am, 7:55am, 4:35pm, 5:20pm.) A Youth Card for €15 per month permits a 50% reduction in fares.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 71