antibes
04 93
Antibes has the largest port on the Mediterranean, attracting sailors and scallywags of all varieties from around the world. A strange island of English-speaking visitors and residents, Antibes has its fair share of rugged British and Irish pubs, with very little of the hopping club scene found in Juan-les-Pins or Cannes. People are either here to drift or to look for work, so the crowd can range from drunk and entertaining to sketchy and intimidating. Antibes has the free beaches that you’ve been searching for, as well as some good SCUBA diving spots and snorkeling off of the Cap d’Antibes. While the museums, with the exception of the Picasso Museum, might be a tad on the dull side, the real attraction is the laid-back people and easygoing atmosphere, only 10min. from one of the craziest party cities on the Riviera.
ORIENTATION
Antibes is easy to navigate between the port and the Vieux Ville, even though the streets can be poorly labeled and the helpful tourist arrows can sometimes lead you into a wall. The easiest way to orient yourself is along the town’s main streets: rue de la Republique and Bld. d’Aguillon. Both lead you right into the Vieux Ville, while offering totally different attractions along the way. Rue de la Republique is where you’ll find upscale restaurants and shopping, while the sleezy port crowd will hang out at the laid-back pubs that line bl. d’Aguillon. Unfortunately the Cap,where you’ll find secluded beaches and nicer hotels, is either a 20min. walk or a bus ride away. The #2 bus goes along the coast. Within the Vieux Ville, no matter where you turn you’ll almost always end up back at the Marche Provençale, a central sqaure that sells fruits and vegetables during the day and turns into a flea market at night.
ACCOMMODATIONS
These are the cheapest ones in town. To find any hotels that are actually budget, you’ll have to go to Juan-les-Pins or take a hike up the highway. These places get above €100 in the high season, and its over €200 for rooms of three to four. We don’t want to subject our readers to such financial pain and suffering. Please go to Juan-les-Pins. If you’re a trust fund baby, don’t mind credit card debt, or absolutely must stay in Antibes for some reason, these are the best deals in town:
THE CREW HOUSE
1 av. St. Roch
HOSTEL
04 92 90 49 39
Not the most luxurious place to stay, even by hostel standards, but definitely a fun experience for those willing to take a leap outside of their comfort zone and bunk with the rugged sailors and drifters who frequent this predominantly Anglophone hostel. For those used to the cramped living conditions and limited personal space of boats (or for those looking to give it a try).
From the train station, walk straight on down ave. de la Libération, take 2nd right on the round about, hostel on your right. Apr-Oct dorms €25; Nov-Mar €20. No lockout.
RELAIS INTERNATIONAL DE LA JEUNESSE
272 bld. de la Garoupe
HOSTEL
04 93 61 34 40 www.clajsud.fr
Closer to Juan-les-Pins than Antibes, Relais International provides guests with clean rooms and an escape from the busy city center. Located next to the beach on the Cap, this English-speaking hostel also provides free breakfast and a youthful atmosphere.
Take bus #4 to the Telais de Jeunesse stop or the #2 to the Garoupe stop. Facing the water, walk to your right for 10min. Breakfast included. Free bar and outdoor seating. Dorms €18. Open Apr-Sep.
HOTEL LE PONTEIL
11 impasse Jean Mensier
HOTEL
04 93 34 67 92 www.leponteil.con
Tucked away at the end of a cul-de-sac under the trees, this quiet hotel will have you itching to leave for the nearby beach, where there is more life and color than in this hebergement. The prices really make the establishment’s bland character worth it.
From the train station, turn left onto Robert Soleau and walk 200m until you get to Place du Général de Gaulle. Walk across the place onto bl. Albert 1er until one block before the beach (6 blocks). Turn right onto ave. du Général Maizière (keeping to the left at the intersection) and walk 200m. Turn left onto Impasse Jean Mensier. Hotel is at the end. Parking. Singles €58-87; doubles €58-105.
For details on Côte d’Azur map, click here
SIGHTS
MUSÉE PICASSO
pl. Mariejol
MUSEUM
04 92 90 54 20 www.musee-picasso.fr
Displays the artist’s lesser-known paintings from the 1940s and video clips of him at work on sketches and paintings.
€8.50, students €6, under 18 free. Open June 15- Sep15 M 10am-6pm, W-Su 10am-6pm; Sep 15- June 14 M 10am-noon and 2-6pm, W-Su 10am-noon and 2-6pm.
FORT CARRÉ
Sentier du Fort Carré
HISTORIC SIGHT
06 14 89 17 45
Once an important fortress guarding the port Vauban, the largest private marina in the Mediterranean, this fortress now serves as a showcase for swords and a statue of Napoleon on a horse. Yeah, it still doesn’t compensate for his height. Maybe one of those 2400 yachts in the harbor, appropriately dubbed “Millionaire’s Row,” that would have eased his—well—Napoleon complex.
Only by guided English or French tour. €3, under 18 free. Open June 15-Sept 15 Tu-Su 10am-6pm; Sept 15-June 14 Tu-Su 10am-4:30pm.
MUSÉE D’ARCHÉOLOGIE
On the waterfront in Bastion St-Andre-sur-les-Ramparts
MUSEUM
04 95 34 00 39
If you thought the pottery museum in Biot was a hoot, you’ll love the ancient Greek and Roman ceramics in this one. The temporary exhibits might be a little more interesting. Past exhibits included present-day objects aged 2000 years to look like archaeological finds from the future.
Students €3. Under 18 free. Open June 15- Sept 15 M 10am-noon and 2-6pm, W-Su 10am-noon and 2-6pm; Sept 15- June 14 M 10am-1pm and 2-5pm, W-Su 10am-1pm and 2-5pm.
MARCHÉ PROVENÇALE
rue Aubernon
MARKET
A market during the day, this covered area turns into a flea market during the evenings, and at seemingly random times during the summer months. Cafes line the market, so the area at the very least makes for good peoplewatching in the shade. Open June-Aug Tu-Sa mornings, afternoon and evenings in Jun-Aug; Sept-May Tu-Sa mornings.
BEACHES
PLAGE DU PONTEIL
BEACH
Antibes’s largest public beach. The long stretch of sand is lined with street vendors and snack stands. It gets very crowded in summer during peak hours of the day.
Turn right from the vieux ville; walk along coast.
PLAGE DE LA SALIS
BEACH
Small public beach that’s closer to the port, and the sunbathing hotspot that’s closest to the vieux ville. The breakwater forms an almost enclosed cove for swimming in the calm, manmade lagoon.
Towards Port Vauban, right from vieux ville.
CAP D’ANTIBES
BEACH
A rocky beach surrounds the Cap, with crystal clear water that’s perfect for snorkeling. Isolated and far from the crowds on the main public beaches.
Take the #2 bus from the bus station to Tour Gandolphe (M-Sa, every 40 min 6:50am-7:30pm). Follow ave. Monseigneurs-Lt. Beaumont to the end. Turn left onto pedestrian road, then right when a small door appears in the surrounding walls; take dirt path to the isolated beach cove.
PLAGE GAROUPE
BEACH
On the Cap. Sandy beach that was frequented by celebs such as F. Scott Fitzgerald, Picasso, and Cole Porter in the 1920s.
Cap d’Antibes.
FOOD
KEY WEST
30 bld. d’Aguillon
COMFORT FOOD
04 93 34 58 20 www.lecapdantibes.com
This laid-back restaurant is your go-to place for comfort food like waffles and anything that you could possibly have a craving for. Sailing theme reminiscent of the Florida Keys, with whales and Hemingway featuring prominently on the lime green walls.
Breakfast food €1.80-6.50
. Waffles €2.90-4.90. Cheesecake, salads, sanwiches €3-9. Open Mar-Dec daily 7:30am-7:30pm (until 2am Jul-Aug).
BRULOT
3 rue Federic Isnard
WOOD FIRED
04 93 34 17 76
Wood-fired cuisine in this tavern-like restaurant. Farm implements hang from the ceiling, reminding you where your meat and fish dishes (€12) came from. Three-course prix-fixe (€19) features shrimp au pastis and creme brulee to top it off. Plats €12-17. Lunch €14. Dinner €19. Open daily 7pm-12am.
LE CRÊME BRÛLÉE
21 rue Thuret
PROVENCAL, FAMILY
04 93 34 56 58
Farm-themed Provençal restaurant serves up crêpes, sandwiches, and plats, as well as its dessert namesake. Inside walls are painted to look as though cows are looking in on you while you eat. If that doesn’t confuse/frighten you enough, check out the pots hanging from the ceiling that serve as lights.
Sandwiches €5.50. Crêpes €4-8. Plats €12-15. Open daily 9am-11pm.
LE VILLAGE
31 rue James Close
PROVENÇAL
04 93 34 19 66
This classy joint serves up local mussels, roast duck, and escargots in a traditionally decoarated Provençal establishment. Though the decor isn’t remarkable, with whitewash plaster walls, the food is quite good. On a tight budget? Go for lunch to get the gourmet taste for almost half the price of the dinner menu.
Lunch €15. Dinner €28. Kids menu €11.50. Open M-Tu noon-2pm and 7-10pm, Th-Su noon-2pm and 7-10pm.
NIGHTLIFE
LA BALADE
25B cours Massena
ABSINTHE BAR
04 93 34 93 00
One of the world’s few absinthe bars, La Balade is a famed subterranean hotspot that exclusively serves that one special drink. Don’t look naive and ask if you haullucinate. You don’t. Thanks to its 140+ proof, you’ll be lucky if you see anything at all. Posters and bowler hats cover the walls in tribute to the 19th-centruy avant-garde, who guzzled the drink with a side of laudanum.
Open daily 9am-midnight.
THE HOP STORE
38 bld. d’Aguillon
BAR
04 93 34 04 06
Antibes’s largest pub. With a giant patio that’s almost always packed with a young crowd, this two-room bar hosts local rock bands and other live music performances every Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. Although technically classified as an Irish pub, The Hop Store is the most international spot in all of Antibes.
Beer €2.50. Cocktails €7. Open in summer 9am-12:30am, in winter 3pm-12:30am.
THE BLUE LADY
Galerie du Port
PUB
04 93 34 41 00
Laid-back pub done up to look like the interior of a steamship in the American South. The wood and brass bar is decorated with entertaining signs referring to gamblers and loose women. Outdoor seating and live bands every other Friday. Don’t miss out on their homemade pub grub, like hand-rolled sausage (€3.50).
Beer €3.40-5.50. Cocktails €6.80-9.20. Open 7:30am-midnight. Kitchen open until 3:30pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Free maps, info on hotels, restaurants, and festivals. Help with hotel reservations (11 pl. de Gaulle 04 97 23 11 11 www.antibesjuanlespins.com. Open July-Aug daily 9am-7pm; Sept-Jun M-F 9am-noon and 1:30-6pm, Sa 9am-noon and 2-6pm, Su 10am-noon and 2:30-5pm.)
• TOURS: The Petit Train covers both Antibes and Juan-les-Pins sights. (Departure from pl. de la Poste 06 15 77 67 47. €7. July-Aug 10am-10pm; Mar-Oct 10am-6pm.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Xtreme Cyber. (8 bld. d’Aguillon in Galerie du Port 04 89 89 93 88 €5 per hr. Open M-F 10am-8pm, Sa 10am-4pm.)
• POST OFFICE: pl. des Martyrs de la Resistance (04 92 90 61 00 Open M-F 8am-7pm, Sa 8am-noon.)
• POSTAL CODE: 06600.
Emergency!
• POLICE: 04 97 21 75 60.
• PHARMACY: 1 av. de l’Admiral Courbet. (04 93 61 12 96. Open daily 8am-12:30pm and 2-6:30pm.)
Getting There
By Train
Gare SNCF (pl. Pierre Semard. Ticket desk open daily 5:45am-10:45pm. Info desk open daily 9am-8pm. Station open 5:25am-12:10am.) runs trains to Cannes( €2.20. 15min, every 30min.); Nice ( €3.40. 15min, every 30min.), Monaco ( €6. 1hr., 5 per day.); Marseille. ( €24. 2hr., every hr.)
By Bus
RCA (04 93 39 11 39) buses run from pl. de Gaulle to Cannes ( €1. 20min., every 20-40min.), Nice ( €1. 1hr., every 20-40min.), and Nice Airport ( €1. 30min., every 20-40min.)
Getting Around
Walking is the easiest way to get around in the vieux ville. From the train station,turn left and walk for 5min., and you’ll eventually hit the main drag of rue de la République, which takes you all the way to the port. To get anywhere farther away, such as the Cap, buses (#2 to the Cap) leave from the pl. Guynemer (04 93 34 37 60 €1, day pass €4, week pass €10. M-Sa every 40min. 6:50am-7:30pm). The free mini bus connects the city to the beaches, train station and bus station. Taxis are also available from the train station (04 93 67 67 67 €18 to Juan-les-Pins. 24hr.)
juan-les-pins
04
Whenever Cannes outprices the Riviera’s Spring Break crowd (think Film Festival), Juan-les-Pins subs in as the life of the party. In July and August, the clubs stay open until breakfast—or lunch—and the warm beach welcomes the excessively tan and hungover back into the relaxed rhythm of town life. Situated on the east side of the Cape of Antibes, Juan-les-Pins differs from its historic sister city in that there is little to do other than party, soak in the sun, and play in the water. You’ll find actual young people on the beach here, and a very vibrant nightlife that isn’t choked by glitz and exploit (cough, Cannes, cough). Be sure to still dress up when you go out—despite the sun and fun, the people here dress to impress, especially during the summer months.
ORIENTATION
Juan-les-Pins is pretty easy to get around; any street from the train station leads directly to the beach. A walk down av. Docteur Favre takes you right into the middle of the bar du nuits and clubs, with the casino conveniently nearby. Walking straight out of the train station down av. Marechal Joffre leads you to the main beach and tourist office, while av. l’Esterel takes you to the budget hotels and cheaper restaurants before hitting the beach on the other side of the train tracks.
ACCOMMODATIONS
HOTEL DE LA PINÈDE
7 av. Georges Gallice
HOTEL
0648 29 52 74 www.hotel-pinede.com
This classy but funky boutique hotel is a stone’s throw from Juan-les-Pins’s party district. Don’t worry about shut-eye; the windows are soundproof. We’re not sure what to make of the paintings of the New York skyline or the Buddha statues, but with a breakfast terrace that’s this prime for sunbathing, we don’t mind the non sequiturs.
From the train station, walk down on ave. du Doctueur Fabre. When you reach bl. de la Pinede, make a right. When you reach a 5-point intersection, make a slight right onto ave. George Gallice. Hotel is on your immediate right. Breakfast €5.50. Soundproof windows. Singles €45-50; doubles €60-90; triples €90-120. Prices are higher in summer season.
HOTEL CECIL
rue Jonnard BP 51
HOTEL
04 93 61 05 12 www.hotelcecil-France.com
Tucked away on the opposite side of town, this quiet Belle Époque hotel will have you thinking about putting some pink furniture in your own house.
From the train station, turn right and walk down ave. de Esterel 3 blocks. Turn right onto rue Jonnard. Hotel is halfway down the street on your left. Breakfast €6.50. Prices increase in summer months. Singles €55-76; doubles €58-89; triples €105.
BEACHES
The beaches are ordered from east to west.
PLAGE D’ANTIBES-LES-PINS
bld. du Littoral.
The furthest from the city center (it’s almost closer to St-Raphaël), Plage d’Antibes-les
-Pins is less crowded than its sister beaches. This is particularly noticeable during the summer months, when it’s usually impossible to see any sand in Juan-les-Pins because the umbrellas are so packed together.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 76