• INTERNET: Kreatik Cafe. (19 ave. Gen. Leclerc04 94 97 40 61 www.kreatik.com €2 per 10min., €4 per 30min., €7 per hr. Open M-Sa 9:30am-noon, Su 2-10pm.)
• POST OFFICE: pl. Alphonse Celli, between old and new ports. ( 04 94 55 96 50 Open M-F 8:30am-noon and 2-5pm, Sa 8:30am-noon.)
• POSTAL CODE: 83990.
Emergency
• POLICE MUNICIPAL: Ave. Leclerc (04 94 54 86 65).
• AMBULANCE: 04 94 56 60 64.
• PHARMACY: Pharmacie du Port. (9 quai Suffren 04 94 97 00 06 Open M-Sa 8:30am-8:30pm.)
Getting There
St-Tropez is far from any train line, but there is a regular ferry service from Les Bateaux de Saint-Raphaël (04 94 95 17 46 www.tmr-saintraphael.com One-way €13, round-trip €23. 1hr.; twice daily at 9:30am and 2:30pm, return at 10:30am and 5:15pm.) There is also a bus ride from the Saint Raphaël SNCF Gare (bus line #7601. €2. 1½hr., Sept-June arrivals every hr. 6am-8:15pm, return trips every hr. 6am-8:20pm; July-Aug arrivals every hr. 6am-8:15pm, return trips every hr. 6am-9pm.)
Getting Around
This is a very easy city to walk. To get to the beaches, take the shuttle service, whose schedule you can pick up at the tourist office. You can also take a taxi (04 94 97 05 27), or rent a scooter (Espcae 83, across the street from Cafe Kreatik 04 94 55 80 00 Open M-Sa 9am-noon and 2-6pm.)
essentials
entrance requirements
• PASSPORT: Required for citizens of all countries.
• VISA: Required for citizens of any country for stays longer than 90 days.
• WORK PERMIT: Required for all non-EU citizens planning to work in France.
You don’t have to be a rocket scientist to plan a good trip. (It might help, but it’s not required.) You do, however, need to be well prepared, and that’s what we can do for you. Essentials is the chapter that gives you all the nitty-gritty you need to know for your trip: the hard information gleaned from 50 years of collective wisdom (and that phone call to France the other day that put us on hold for an hour). Planning your trip? Check. Staying safe and healthy? Check. Plus, for overall trip-planning advice from what to pack (money and as little underwear as possible) to how to take a good passport photo (it’s physically impossible; consider airbrushing), you can also check out the Essentials section of www.letsgo.com.
We’re not going to lie—this section is tough for us to write, and you might not find it as fun of a read as 101 or Discover. But please, for the love of all that is good, read it! It’s super helpful, and, most importantly, it means we didn’t compile all this technical info and put it in one place for you (yes YOU) for nothing.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Time Differences
France is 1hr. ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and observes Daylight Saving Time. This means that it is 6hr. ahead of New York City, 9hr. ahead of Los Angeles, 1hr. ahead of the British Isles, 8hr. behind Sydney, and 10hr. behind New Zealand.
MONEY
Tipping and Bargaining
By law in France, service is added to bills in bars and restaurants, called “service compris.” Most people do, however, leave some change (up to €2) for drinks and food, and in nicer restaurants, it is not uncommon to leave 5% of the bill. For other services, like taxis and haircuts, 10-15% tip is acceptable.
Taxes
As a member of the EU, France requires a value added tax (VAT) of 19.6%, which is applied to a variety of goods and services (e.g. food, accommodations), though it is less for food (5.5%). Non-European Economic Community visitors to France who are taking these goods home may be refunded this tax for purchases totaling over €175 per store. When making purchases, request a VAT form, and present them at the détaxe booth at the airport. These goods must be carried at all times while traveling, and refunds must be claimed within 6 months.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
General Advice
In any type of crisis, the most important thing to do is stay calm. Your country’s embassy abroad is usually your best resource in an emergency; registering with that embassy upon arrival in the country is a good idea.
Local Laws and Police
La Police Nationale is the branch of French law enforcement that is most often seen in urban areas. To reach the French police, call 17.
Drugs and Alcohol
There is no drinking age in France, but to purchase alcohol one must be at least 18 years old. The legal blood-alcohol level for driving in France is .05%, which is less than it is in countries like the US, UK, New Zealand, and Ireland, so exercise appropriate caution when driving in France.
Specific Concerns
The French Revolution may have been in 1789, but the spirit of the revolution certainly hasn’t died. Protests and strikes are frequent in France, but violence does not often occur. You may find yourself in Grenoble on the day of a transit strike (as one LG researcher did) but who hasn’t always wanted to see France by Vespa?
france 101
facts and figures
• NUMBER OF FRENCH NOBEL LAUREATES: 49.
• LITERS OF WINE CONSUMED PER PERSON ANNUALLY: 47.
• LIKELIHOOD THE PREVIOUS TWO FACTS ARE RELATED: 93.7%.
• NUMBER OF MISTRESSES KEPT SIMULTANEOUSLY BY SARTRE: 9.
• NUMBER OF PEOPLE LIBERATED FROM THE BASTILLE IN 1789: 7.
• NUMBER OF YOUTH ARRESTED ON NOVEMBER 14TH DURING RIOTS OF 2005: 71.
Let’s Go is sure you’ve heard tell of that infamous French snobbiness—how they think Americans are ignorant, English speakers are inferior, and foreigners in general are pretty sub-par. But they’re really not as scary as all that. They’ve just grown up in the land of Monet and Molière, of Bonaparte and the Bastille, a country that’s produced 49 Nobel Prize winners and 31 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, been the seat of three empires and the source of countless artistic movements. It’s no wonder they’re so proud to be French—and it’s also no wonder that they don’t think it’s cute when you can’t tell a Gaul from de Gaulle. So if you don’t really like being that kid (who does?), dive into this chapter and read up on the history, art, literature, and customs of France. We’ll take you from the first hundred years of the Roman Empire to the Hundred Years’ War, from religious repression to artistic expression, and, most importantly, from an oh-you-silly-American Stone Age to an educated Enlightenment. We promise this will be more entertaining and informative than the in-flight movie.
CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE
First Impressions
The first time you meet in France, shaking hands is expected, although friends will greet one another with a kiss on the cheek. Women are expected to kiss twice. If you’re planning on eating in a restaurant or heading out clubbing, dress it up—the easiest way to stand out as a tourist is to wear shorts and a T-shirt out to dinner. Don’t expect to be let into the club wearring sneakers. At restaurants, the tip is included in the bill, but feel free to leave a 5-10% tip for exceptional service.
What Not to Say
In French culture, never discuss money in private or public company. Doing so is seen as tasteless. In restaurants, arguing over who had what when the bill comes up is even more shameless. The host usually is expected to pay; among friends it is more common to split the bill by the number in your party. In addition to money, talking about business is also considered boring.
Demain
If you’re invited to dinner at someone’s house, you’ll find them unprepared if you show up “on time.” Try aiming to be 15 to 30 min. late. The attitude of “do it later/tomorrow” is one that France, and Southern Europe generally, embraces. While a German meeting might work differently, a cafe rendezvous typically never starts punctually.
We’re Closed
In France, restaurants, cafes, and other serves that usually stay open on Sundays are closed on Mondays instead. If you’re planning a hot date on a Monday, make sure to reschedule for later in the week. Besides, who goes on dates on Monday night?
Use Your Crappy French
FOOD AND DRINK
A French breakfast typically consists of lighter fare—a quick stop for coffee and a croissant at the nearest cafe, or a few tartines (slices) of bread with jelly. Stop at a boulangerie to pick up a pastry or a baguette that was made mere minutes before the shop opened. Lunch is a longer affair, but it is becoming less leisurely as even Parisians adjust to the busybody workday of a globalized world. Simple yet savory lunch chow found in cafes and brasseries includes salads, quiche, and tasty croque monsieur (grilled ham and cheese). Eating out for lunch can be more intimidating for non-French speakers, but it’s just a matter of having some cojones and testing out your throaty s’il vous plait, no matter how big the waiter’s scowl is.
The same goes for dinner, where tourists subject themselves to confusion and anxiety as an intimidating maître’d recites the menu in rapid-fire French. Stay strong; the food’s worth it. A traditional French meal consists of five courses: hors d’oeuvres, soup, a main course, salad, cheese, and dessert, each paired with a wine. Except for the most extravagant five-star establishments, however, a restaurant meal is typically two or three courses depending on your appetite and budget. Some economical travelers may opt to skip the food and just indulge in the wine, but we suggest you do both. Most restaurants open around 7:30pm or 8pm and take orders until 11pm; keep a look out for classic French dishes such as cassoulet, a meat stew, or coq au vin, wine-cooked chicken. It is law for restaurants to have a prix-fixe menu, so if they aren’t showing you one but you’re interested in the potentially cheaper option, do not hesitate to inquire.
North
Nord Pas-de-Calais, Brittany and Normandy rely heavily on the crustations and bass at the North Sea. Brittany is especially famous for its crêpes, as well as galettes, which are made from the buckwheat that grows in the region. Many of the dishes are also paired with cider from northern apple trees, for those who are alcoholically inclined.
South
You’ll never get tired of citrus and fruits—unless you go the South of France. This area is one of Europe’s main suppliers of herbs (no, not in a Humboldt County sense). Honey is a staple and prized ingredient in this region, as well as goat cheese, sausages, and lamb. Making use of the sea as well, there are also many dishes that include garlic anchovies. Try drinking pastis, a yellow anise flavored alcoholic drink. Hemmingway coined the colorful phrase “Death in the Afternoon” to refer to a mix of pastis and Champagne, reminding all of us how much a hangover sucks at 5pm.
West
The Basque cuisine has definitely made its way into this region’s food. Even though Bordeaux is known for its wine, it’s also famous for its dried meats, including lamb. The region is also France’s largest producers of foie gras, or fattened goose liver. The food is also heavily influenced by tomatoes, red pepper, wheat products and Arbequina olive oils.
West and Central
The Loire Valley is rich in fruits, as well as the more famous liqueurs that come from those fruits. Most of the meat in this region isd wild game, Charolais cattle, and guinea fowl, while the region is especially famous for its goat cheeses. Go a little to the west and run into Champagne country, which is also famous for its German influenced cakes and beer.
GERMANY
berlin
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
SHOPPING
ESSENTIALS
köln cologne
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
ESSENTIALS
hamburg
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
ESSENTIALS
dresden
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
ESSENTIALS
frankfurt
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
ESSENTIALS
munich
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
ESSENTIALS
essentials
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
MONEY
TIPPING AND BARGAINING
SAFETY AND HEALTH
germany 101
ETIQUETTE AND CUSTOMS
HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS
FOOD AND DRINK
Anything that ever made it big is bound to attract some stereotypes, and Germany is no different. Beer, crazy deaf composers, robotic efficiency, sausage, Inglourious Basterds—just to name a few. Germany has some of the best collections of art in the world, incredible architecture, and a history that makes it clear no one bosses Germany around. Whether giving the ancient Romans a run for their money or giving birth to Protestantism, Germany has always been a rebel. Even behind its success as a developed country, it hasn’t given that up.
The damage from World War II still lingers in city skyscapes, and the country is keenly embarrassed of its Nazi and communist pasts. Even though its concrete wall has been demolished, Berlin, the country’s capital, still retains a marked difference between east and west after decades of strife, tempering the picturesque castles and churches of earlier golden ages.
Plenty of discounts, cheap eats, and a large young population make Germany an exciting place to visit and study. It’s also incredibly accessible for Anglophone visitors, as many Germans have no qualms about slipping from their native tongue into English.The nightlife and culture of Berlin or Munich will grab you and never let you go, while thriving smaller university towns will charm you into wanting to stay another semester.
greatest hits
• COLD WAR KIDS. Admire the Berlin Wall murals painted by artists from around the world at the East Side Gallery ( EAST SIDE GALLERY).
• BUTTERFLY KISSES. Emerge from Cocoon Club ( COCOON CLUB) as a drunken butterfly after spending the night wrapped in some German hottie’s arms.
• BEAMER, BENZ, OR BENTLEY. Sport the classiest threads you own, and head to the BMW Welt (BMW WELT AND MUSEUM) to test drive a new whip.
• DOWN IN ONE. Pace yourself on the Maß and avoid using the vomitorium at Munich’s most famous beer hall, Hofbräuhaus ( HOFBRÄUHAUS).
For details on Germany map, click here
student life
First stop is Berlin, hit up the Bahnof Zoo and the schloß in Berlin’s Charlottenburg, but bounce as soon as the sun goes down. Shake the geriatrics, sip wine alongside PYTs at Solsi e Morsi, and befriend the legendary bar owner. Continue to Köln, where the spectacular Dom will make you with your hangover spin. In Frankfurt, try all the regional specialties and then finish off your night at the Piper and Red Lounge. Keep the party going at Munich’s Hofbräuhaus, where you can even claim that your night of chugging down beers with Germans was a cultural experience.
berlin
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Congratulations on your decision to visit Berlin. Your wussy friends went to Paris. Your snob friends left for London. Your tacky friends chose Florence. And your fat friends stayed home. But you chose Berlin, which makes two things true of you: 1. You’re smarter than your friends. 2. You’re bad at choosing friends. Everything
that rocks in the other European capitals does so in Berlin, but here the beat is faster, the groove is harder, and all of it is covered in more mustard than Mr. French could dream. The Prussians ruled from Berlin’s canal-lined boulevards, built the Berliner Dom, pimped out opera houses, and collected enough art to make the Louvre green with envy. In WWII, then there whole “wall” thing where the Soviets literally cut the city in half. In short, “change” more than anything else continues to define Berlin. As a city was simultaneously abandoned and dominated by authority, Berlin became a haven of punks and anarchists in the ’70s and ’80s. Embracing change and pushing forward has also made Berlin the “cool” capital of Europe.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 79