Boat Rental
Die Segelschule Pieper, (An der Alster/Atlantickstieg Directly across form the Hotel Atlantic at the intersection of Holtzdamm and the An der Alster on the Außenalster. 040 24 75 78 www.segelschule-pieper.de) Must be 14+ to rent. Pedalboats and rowboats for €12-13 per hr., and sailboats for up to 6 people for €16-19 per hr. Open May-Sept daily 10am-9pm.)
Bike Rental
Hamburg is very bike-friendly, with wide bike lanes built into most sidewalks. Fhrrandstation Dammtor/Rotherbaum (Schlüterstr. 11. 040 41 46 82 77), €3 per day. Open M-F 9am-6pm). Fahrandladen St. Georg (Schmilinskystr. 6. Off the Lange Reihe near the Außenalster. 040 24 39 08 €8 per day, €56 per week with a €50 deposit. Open M-F 10am-7pm, Sa 10am-1pm.)
dresden
0351
In 1945, a two-night-long Allied air raid completely destroyed Dresden, killing between 25,000 and 50,000 Germans. Until the reunification of Germany in 1989, many of the historic buildings burned in the bombing were left untouched as a monument to the war. As striking as these ruins must have been, we’re thrilled the city of Dresden ultimately decided to reconstruct its stunning riverside view (with substantial help from the German and British national governments.) The ongoing, incredibly successful restoration has resurrected the “Florence on the Elbe” to its old Baroque beauty, and given rise to a vibrant youth culture. With world-class museums, operas, and palaces to fill your day, and nightclubs and bars busy late into the night, we suggest you come for the Kirches and stay for the Klubs (or vice versa.).
ORIENTATION
Dresden is located about 60km northwest of the Czech border and 200km south of Berlin, with its population of 500,000 heavily concentrated around the banks of the Elbe. The river bisects the city, with Neustadt to the north, and Altstadt to the south. Hauptbahnof, which is located in Alstadt, is linked to the Altmarkt (with its beautiful historic buildings) by Prager Strasse, a pedestrian zone lined with shops and fountains. Altmarkt is connected to Neustadt by Austusbrucke, the Elbe’s central walking bridge, which links Alstadt to Neustadt’s pedestrian walkway, Haupstrasse. Most of Dresden’s historic sights are located along the Elbe, with the majority found in Altstadt. Neustadt is the younger, more alternative side of Dresden, full of hostels, inexpensive restaurants, and unbeatable nightlife.
ACCOMMODATIONS
With the Hauptbahnhof and river sights located in Altstadt, it may be tempting to book your stay on the south side of the river. However, far more hostels, with lower prices and a more youthful clientele, are in the Neustadt. Public transportation makes everything easily accessible from either side of the river, so don’t let proximity keep you from finding your bunk to the north of the Elbe.
Altstadt
JUGENDGÄSTEHAUS
Masternistraße 22
HOSTEL
0351 49 26 20 www.dresden.jugendherberg.de
Jugendgästehaus, a member of Hosteling International, is one of few hostels located in Dresden’s Altstadt, and, at just a 7min. walk away, is the closest to Dresden’s historic river sights. The hostel’s interior is admittedly asylum-esque, with stark white walls, fluorescent lighting and hospital waiting room furniture. Rooms have either two or four beds, and are mostly popular with families.
From the (H) at Post Platz, follow Feiberger to Maternistrasse. In-room full bath is available for an extra €4.50. May-Oct with breakfast from €21.25, with either lunch or dinner €26.75, with lunch and dinner €32.25. Nov-Apr from €20.25. Reception 24hr.
CITY HERBERGE
Lingnerallee 3
HOSTEL, HOTEL
0351 485 99 00 www.cityherberge.de
If you are set on staying in the Altstadt, this is the place to do it. From the outside the building looks a bit like an insane asylum, and it’s located across from a happening skate park, but the rooms themselves are cozy, comfortable, and can be personalized based on your budget. The hostel rooms share toilets on the floor while the hotel-style rooms come with a bathroom and amped-up decor (like paintings and fluffier pillows). Suitable for all age groups; the great lobby area is stocked with board games.
Tram 7 or 12: Pirnaischer Platz. From the stop, walk down St. Petersburger Strasse towards the Rathaus (City Hall with the big tower). Breakfast and internet access included. Basic rooms €16-35; standard €21-42; comfort €30-56. Reception 24hr.
Neustadt
LOUISE 20
Louisenstr. 20
HOSTEL, PENSION
0351 889 48 94 www.louise20.de
The golden hardwood floors and dainty glass canisters with cereal conjure feelings of comfort, with impeccable cleanliness and in-room sinks to match. You may feel so at home that you don’t want to leave, except to find nourishment in the conveniently located restaurant and bar called Planwirtschaft below. Luckily, the location provides easy access to trams to the Altstadt while also centrally located amidst Neustadt restaurants, shops, and bars.
For details on Dresden map, click here
Tram 7 or 8: Louisenstr. Breakfast €5.50. Linens included with ISIC card. Group discounts available. 5-bed dorm €14-17; 3-4 bed room €16-18; singles €29-35; doubles €38-46. Reception daily 7am-11pm. If arriving earlier or later with a reservation, arrange in advance.
HOSTEL MONDPALAST
Louisenstr. 77
HOSTEL
0351 563 40 50 www.mondpalast.de
This place is seriously cosmic. Hostel Mondpalast (Moon Palace) is nestled smack in the middle of of Neustadt’s restaurant and nightlife district, and serves a mostly young clientele. The hostel has a bar and restaurant on its lower level (happy hour prices all day long for guests!). Rooms are each themed by constellation with pine beds, private lockers, and stellar murals.
Tram 7: Louisenstr.. From the stop, walk along Louisenstraße to Mondpalast, on the left. Or, tram 11: Pulsnitzer Straße. From the stop, turn left onto Louisenstr. Breakfast €6. In-room shower and bathroom available, usually for an extra €6-8. All guests required to pay for linens, €2 (one time charge). Fully equipped kitchen. Wi-Fi included. 8-10 bed rooms €14; 5-6 bed rooms €16; single €34; doubles €39. Reception Apr-Oct 24hr.; Nov-Mar call ahead for hours. Check-out noon.
Dresden Altstadt
SIGHTS
We’d tell you that there’s too much for a traveler to see in just a few days, but fortunately for you and your weary feet, many of Dresden’s major sights are clumped close together on the beautiful scenic banks of the Elbe. With the Royal Cathedral right next to the Royal Palace right next to the City Opera House, the original city-plan was either drawn up by the incurably lazy for their own convenience, or the admirably considerate for ours. Most of the places to see are in the Altstadt, but there’s plenty to keep you busy in the Neustadt as well.
Altstadt
FRAUENKIRCHE
Neumarkt
CHURCH
0351 656 06 www.fauenkirche-dresden.de
Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) was first bombed and destroyed in 1945. Originally, left in ruins as a monument to the terrors of war, it was decided after the German reunification that the church would be rebuilt, incorporating the black, burned stones from the old church into the new, lighter stones. Because the British financed a substantial portion of the reconstruction, Dresden now regards the church as a symbol of reconciliation. Unfortunately, the light blue, green, and pink painted interior seems to be visually more symbolic of an Easter egg or a Miami condo than the mended relations between previously warring states. Visitors can see Altstadt from the top of the dome.
Dresden Neustadt
Tram 1, 2, 4, or 12: Altmarkt. Tram 3, 6, 7 or bus 75: Pirnaischer Platz. €8. Open Mar-Oct M-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 12:30-6pm. Nov-Feb M-Sa 10am-4pm, Su 12:30-4pm. Weekend times restricted due to rehearsals.
DRESDENER RESIDENZ SCHLOSS
Taschenberg 2
ROYAL PALACE
0351 49 14 20 00 www.skdmuseum.de
Originally built as a residential palace for Saxony’s Wettin dynasty of elec
tors (you can see their portraits in the palace’s Gallery of Electors, if you’re curious), it was ruined in the 1945 Allied bombing. Currently, the palace is being restored as a museum, with four different exhibits open at different times and for different admission prices. High on the list of those to see are both the New and Historic Green Vaults, which have recently found a home back in the palace. The Historic Green Vault, a collection of Augustus the Strong’s jewelry, ivory carvings, and intricate work by goldsmiths, might be worth the admission fee. The New Green Vault, is a smaller exhibit, but less of a hassle to visit, and features a separate part of Augustus’s treasure collection. Visitors can also visit the Rüstdammer (Armory), Münzkabinett (Coin Cabinet), and Kupferstich-Kabinett (Cabinet of Prints and Drawings).
Tram 4, 8 or 9: Theaterpl. Historic Green Vault ticket reservation at least one day prior to visit. Reservations can be made online at www.dresden.de.). No reservations necessary for the New Green Vault. Historic Green Vault €10, including audio tour. Children under 7 free. New Green Vault €6, students €3.50. Historic Green Vault open M and W-Su 10am-7pm, last entry 6pm. New Green Vault open M and W-Su 10am-6pm.
KATHOLISCHE HOFKIRCHE
Schlossplatz
CATHEDRAL
0351 484 48 12 www.kathedrale-dresden.de
Katholische Hofkirche (the Catholic Court Cathedral) adjoins the palace. Though destroyed in 1945, it was quickly restored to near perfect condition, with a striking bright white marble interior. The cathedral still displays its original organ on the second floor, which, having miraculously survived the bombing, represents the last surviving work of world-famous organ-builder Gottfried Silbermann. Because the church is still very much used by worshippers, remember to behave respectfully (confessionals aren’t photobooths, folks).
Tram 7, 8 or 9: Theatpl. Guided tours M-Th 2pm, F-Su 1pm, Sa 1pm. Free. Open M-Tu 9am-6pm, W-Th 9am-5pm, F 1-5pm, Sa 10am-5pm, Su noon-4pm.
SEMPERBAU MIT ZWINGGER
Theaterpl. 1
MUSEUM
0351 491 46 22 www.skd-dresden.de
Contains collections including the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Picture Gallery). The Old Masters Gallery has large, tightly packed canvases reaching from the ground to the high ceilings, often organized by artist. Walk past Canaletto’s paintings of Venice, or Carriera’s room of portraits on the third floor. Don’t miss Canaletto’s 18th century iconic paintings of the Dresden waterfront to see how successful the reconstruction of Altstadt has been. Other works by Raphael, Botticelli, Titian, Rembrandt, and Correggio also make this worth the visit. Part of the Rüstkammer (armory) collection is also housed here, in addition to the Porzellansammiung (porcelain collection), the largest ceramics collection in the world, with over 20,000 works. Collected by Augustus the Strong, a porcelain aficionado, the display traces pottery specimens from the Ming Dynasty to Japanese Imari wares from the early 17th and 18th centuries.
Tram 7, 8 or 9: Theaterpl. The Zwingger is right across from the Hofkirche. Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister €3, students €2, entire collection €10/7.50. Under 16 free. Open Tu-Su 10am-6pm.
DIE GLÄSERNE MANUFAKTUR (THE TRANSPARENT FACTORY)
Lennestr. 1
FACTORY
01805 89 62 68 www.glaesernemanufaktur.de
Join a guided tour through this glass extravaganza that houses the Volkswagen’s Phaeton, and watch men in white moon-suits piece the luxury cars together by hand. Each Phaeton on the assembly line is unique, and will eventually be delivered to its owner through an elaborate display in which the car ascends into the room on a platform. If cars aren’t your thing, the almost transparent building is still a spectacle. At the end of the tour, there is a parked Phaeton to play with (no test driving allowed). Be sure to sit in the driver’s seat and turn on the back massager.
Tram 12 or 13: Strassburger Platz. The factory is occasionally open for independent exploration, but the areas for independent visit are restricted. €4, students, seniors, disabled €2. Family card €10 (two adults, up to 5 children). Group discounts available. English tours daily at noon and 3pm, but hours and tours subject to change; call in advance to confirm and reserve.
Neustadt
DREIKÖNIGSKIRCHE (CHURCH OF THE MAGI)
Hauptstr. 23
CHURCH
0351 812 41 00
Only the original clock and bell tower, designed in 1730, survived the 1945 Dresden bombing, but a new structure has been built around it to allow church services to continue. Climb to the top of the bell tower, up a dizzying series of spiral staircases, to see panoramic views of all of Dresden.
Tram 8: Neustädter Markt. Admission to the tower €1.50, children €1. Church service free. Tower open Mar-Oct Tu 11:30am-4pm, W-Sa 11am-5pm, Su 11:30am-5pm. Nov-Feb W noon-4pm, Th-F 1pm-4pm, Su 11:30am-4:30pm.
GOLDEN REITER (GILDED HORSEMAN)
STATUE
This gold-plated August the Strong faces the Augustusbrücke on Neustädter Markt. Some locals find the statue of a “fat man on a fat horse” unappealing and gaudy, but there’s something to be said for large gold equine statues...probably. Augustus’ commendatory suffix has two suggested derivations. First, it alters his physical strength, supposedly displayed by his indented thumbprint on the Brühlsche Terrasse. Since the thumprint was made after his death, this would indeed be quite a show of strength. Second, it speaks to his his virility—legend has it that he fathered 365 children, though the official tally is 15.
Tram 8: Neustädter Markt. Free.
ALAUNPARK
PARK
On sunny days, families have picnics, children eat ice cream, students study on the grass, and everyone else runs around playing soccer and frisbee. This expansive park occasionally hosts a local produce market during the summer, and is always a perfect place to bring a meal and take a stroll.
Bordered by Bischofsweg, Alaunstraße, Kamenzer Str. and Tannenstr. Free.
The Great Outdoors
PURO BEACH
Leipziger Str. 15
POOL, BAR
0351 215 27 71 www.puro.de
Where the wanna-be beach babes of Dresden come to see and be seen; wear your sparkly bikini, flex your abs, and lay out stylishly on the large cushions under sweeping white umbrellas. The small pool even has a waterfall.
Tram 11: Antonstr. From the stop, walk towards the bridge, down the stairs, and follow the path along the Elbe. Mixed drinks €2-7. Open daily 11am-late; the party continues at the neighboring club, Pier 15.
CITY BEACH DRESDEN
Leipziger Str. 31
BEACH, BAR
0152 24 39 43 04 www.citybeachdresden.de
The down-to-earth brother of Puro Beach, City Beach Dresden is the summertime hang-out for locals with an expanse of sand, beach beds, and picnic tables. Get a group together and reserve a beach volleyball court—once play begins it almost feels as though you are on the beaches of California.
A little past Puro Beach, also on the path along the Elbe. Mixed drinks €2-5. Beach volleyball court €10-15 Open daily 10am-dusk.
FOOD
Dresden is full of inexpensive and great tasting food. Affordable restaurants in Altstadt are difficult to come by; travelers will have to sacrifice their budgets and eat alongside masses of tourists to enjoy a meal with great views of reconstructed Baroque buildings. Luckily, markets are open relatively frequently in the summer months in Altmarkt, where good food is available for a lot less. Neustadt, however, has a wide range of eateries with plenty of low-budget options. Make sure you pick up a free Dresden by Locals map in any hostel or tourist office to see a long listing of places Dresdeners go to be fed and watered.
Altstadt
Restaurants around the Altstadt market let visitors in on the incredible views of the Frauenkirche and the Elbe. Unfortunately, these places are expensive and overrun by hoards of tourists. If you’re looking to stay on a budget, your cheapest options are the bratwurst stands scattered around the Markts, which sell their fare for €2-3.
It’s usually safe to bet that at least one vendor will be on Münzgasse, which runs from the river to the Frauenkirche. Restaurants in the area, which have similar prices and serve similar crowds, apparently attempt to differentiate themselves by emulating different countries, which makes them look slightly ridiculous in such a quintessentially German platz.
CAFE AHA
Kreuzstr. 7
CAFE, VEGETARIAN
0351 496 0673 www.ladencafe.de
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 90