South of the Main
Immediately south of the Main is the Museumsufer, a network of museums stretching along Schaumankai running along the river. Collectively, the neighborhood to the south is known as Sachsenhausen. In the middle around Schweizer Platz, you’ll find a collection of age-old Apfelwein eateries, while to the east by Frankensteiner Platz is a hopping nightlife district, with bars and throngs of young people.
ACCOMMODATIONS
As the financial center of Europe, Frankfurt doesn’t really offer deals, and hotels are often full of bankers and businessmen. The West End/Bockenheim area has affordable options in a quiet setting, though nightlife is more accessible from accommodations in Sachsenhausen and near the Hauptbahnhof.
North of the Main
FRANKFURT HOSTEL
Kaiserstr. 74
HOSTEL, HOTEL
069 247 51 30 www.frankfurt-hostel.de
A convenient location and great prices attract young internationals to this bustling hostel, where new friends hang out in the sunny pastel-colored rooms or the homey lobby. Nab a seat on the balcony and people-watch on the Kaiserstr. below. For a cheap meal, take advantage of the free pasta for guests on Saturday evenings, and free tastings of Frankfurt’s signature green sauce on Thursdays.
From the Hauptbahnhof, head along Kaiserstr. to the hostel on the left. Breakfast and Wi-Fi included. Singles and doubles €59; 3-10 bed dorms €19-22. Reception 24hr. Check-in 2pm. Check-out 11am.
FIVE ELEMENTS
Moselstr. 40
HOSTEL
069 24 00 58 85 www.5elementshostel.de
This posh hostel right by the Hauptbahnhof offers a bunch of student-friendly amenities, including a 24hr. bar with stylish leather cube seats and a bike rental. Rooms are also stylishly decked in stainless steel bunks with personal reading lamps and under-bed lockers. All this makes it worth overlooking the fact that this hostel is smack-dab in the middle of Frankfurt’s red light district—just don’t speak to those strangers outside late at night.
From the Hauptbahnhof, walk down Kaiserstr. and then turn left onto Moselstr. Towels and Wi-Fi included. Linens €1.50. Breakfast €4. Laptops available to borrow with deposit. 5-7 bed dorms from €18; singles €40; doubles from €50; quads from €88. Reception 24hr. Check-in 4pm. Check-out noon.
For details on Frankfurt map, click here
MEININGER’S HOSTEL AND HOTEL
Europaallee. 64
HOSTEL, HOTEL
030 66 63 61 00 www.meininger-hotels.de
This colorful building has some of the most luxurious hostel accommodations in town, with superbly clean rooms featuring flatscreen TVs and phones in each room. Though mostly populated by businessmen coming into town for trade fairs at the Messe immediately next door, the rooms are a real steal during quieter times.
S3, S4, S5, or S6: Messe, then walk south towards a blocky multi-colored building. Breakfast €7.50. Linens and Wi-Fi included. 3-6 bed dorms €19-28; singles from €52; doubles €70. Reception 24hr. Check-in 3pm. Check-out 10am.
South of the Main
HAUS DER JUGEND (HI)
Deutschherrnufer 12
HOSTEL
069 610 01 50 www.jugendherberge-frankfurt.de
Bright and cheery, though with a slight institutional feel common with HI hostels, the Haus der Jugend is situated right by the nightlife frenzy of Sachsenhausen and packs in a whole ton of amenities. Ask the helpful staff for recommendations if you’re at a loss for what to do, and don’t forget to spend some time playing with the giant chess set!
Bus #46: Frankensteiner Pl., then backtrack a tiny bit to the hostel. Breakfast and linens included. Wi-Fi €5 per day. Laundry €2. 8- to 10-bed dorms €18; singles €36.50; doubles €53-63; triples €63-76.50; quads €84-102. Reception 24hr. Lock-out 2-6:30am; call for service. Check-in 1pm. Check-out 10am.
SIGHTS
Beneath the daunting skyscrapers that define the Frankfurt landscape are several historic sights, all of which have undergone some degree of reconstruction since the Altstadt’s destruction in 1944. Old and new come to a head in the conflicted metropolis—some attractions reflect the city’s increasingly contemporary identity and others remain as relics of a bygone Frankfurt. The city’s museums are its most prized cultural possessions, all of them exceptionally well-done though their sheer number is enough to leave any tourist overwhelmed. Consider getting a Frankfurt Card or a Museumsufer Ticket for some steep discounts.
North of the Main
MUSEUM FÜR MODERNE KUNST
Domstr. 10
MUSEUM
069 21 23 04 47 www.mmk-frankfurt.de
Blocks from the Dom, this highly stylized postmodern “slice of cake” building provides a fitting setting for the modern art within. The museum rotates its permanent collection of European and American art, and prides itself on special exhibits of new and unknown artists and forms. Small balconies on the top floor also offer spectacular views of the Dom.
U4 or U5: Römer/Dom. From the station, walk to the curvy building 1 block north of the Dom. Explanations offered in English. €8, students €4. Free admission last Sa of month. Open Tu 10am-6pm, W 10am-8pm, Th-Su 10am-6pm.
RÖMERBERG
SQUARE
A voyage through Frankfurt should begin in this central area of the Altstadt, among the half-timbered architecture and medieval-looking fountains that appear on all postcards of the city. The Statue of Justice, with its delicate scales, stands in the center of the square to celebrate the 13 coronations of German emperors once held in the city. Once spouting wine, today she only offers shade to the plethora of pigeons perched at her feet.
U4 or U5: Dom/Römer.
RÖMER
Römerberg 25
CITY HALL
At the west end of the Römerberg, the gables of Römer have marked the site of Frankfurt’s city hall since 1405. It was also the original stop on the Main for the merchants who began the city’s long trade tradition. Today, the building’s upper floors are open to the public. Visit the Kaisersaal, a former imperial banquet hall adorned with portraits of 52 German emperors, from Charlemagne to Franz II. Be forewarned, however, that private events held in the Römer close the building to the public entirely.
U4 or U5: Dom/Römer. €2. Open daily 10am-1pm and 2-5pm.
ARCHÄOLOGISCHER GARTEN
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Between the Dom and the rest of the Römerberg are the Schirn Kunsthalle and a plantless “garden” of crumbled building foundations dating back to the 2000-year-old Roman settlement. Three sets of ruins, from the first century BC and the ninth and 15th centuries AD, were uncovered during excavations in 1953. Today, they are preserved in a well-maintained urban garden landscape. Over the summer, theater performances often take place on scaffolding straddling the garden.
U4 or U5: Dom/Römer. From the stop, head towards the Dom.
DOM
Dompl. 14
CHURCH
069 13 37 61 84 www.dom-frankfurt.de
East of the Archäologischer Garten stands the only major historical building in the city center that escaped complete destruction in WWII. The seven electors of the Holy Roman Empire chose emperors here, and the Dom served as the site of coronation ceremonies from 1562 to 1792. The Dom Museum inside the main entrance has architectural studies of the Dom, intricate chalices, and the ceremonial robes of imperial electors. The Haus am Dom, across the courtyard from the church itself, also houses a branch of the museum.
U4 or U5: Dom/Römer. Cathedral free. Dom Museum €3, students €2. Tours €3, students €2. Cathedral open M-Th 9am-noon and 2:30pm-8pm, F 2:30-8pm, except during services. Tours in German Tu-Su 3pm. Museum open Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm. Haus am Dom open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm.
GOETHEHAUS
Großer Hirschgraben 23-25
HOUSE
069 13 88 00 www.goethehaus-frankfurt.de
The house in which the father of Faust was born was meticulously reconstructe
d after its WWII destruction and has since been preserved as a shrine to the author, with all of his family’s fine furnishings on display. Wind your way up the four stories of sitting rooms, bedrooms, and writing chambers and learn more than you ever thought possible about the childhood home of Germany’s most beloved literary giant. The memorable writing chamber, puppet-show room, and personal library should not be missed. If you still want more, the neighboring Goethe Museum promises to offer obsessed fans a more in-depth look at the author’s life when it reopens after an extensive renovation in early 2011.
U1, U2, U3, U4, or U5: Willy-Brandt-Pl. From the stop, follow the signs. English placards available. €5, students €2.50. Interactive audio tour €3. Open M-Sa 10am-6pm, Su 10am-5:30pm.
MAIN TOWER OBSERVATION DECK
Neue Mainzer Str. 52-58.
OBSERVATION DECK
069 36 50 47 40 www.maintower.de
Vistors will agree that a trip to the top of Frankfurt’s only observation deck is a must. Take the elevator to the 54th floor and walk three floors up to the outdoor observation deck, where your 250m height will let you see for miles (kilometers) on end. You can also sip a cocktail (from €4) at the bar just one floor below.
S-bahn: Taunusanlage. From the stop, walk along Junghofstr. and then turn right onto Neue Mainzer Str. €5, students €3.50. Ground floor exhibit open M-F 8am-8pm, Sa-Su 10am-5pm. Platform open in summer M-Th 10am-9pm, F-Sa 10am-11pm, Su 10am-9pm; in winter M-Th 10am-7pm, F-Sa 10am-9pm, Su 10am-7pm. Restaurant and bar open Tu-Th 5:30pm-1am, F-Sa 5:30pm-2am.
South of the Main
Museumsufer
The Museumsufer (that’s Museums-ufer, not Museum-sufer, and most definitely and most unfortunately not Museum-surfer) is a strip along the southern bank of the Main that hosts an eclectic range of museums mostly housed in opulent 19th-century mansions. The sheer diversity of topics covered in the museums means that there’s something for everyone, from film to anthropology to impressionist art. The Museumsufer is also home to Frankfurt’s Museumsuferfest, a huge cultural celebration held every August with art showings, music, and general revelry among the Main. To get there, take the U1, U2, or U3 to Schweitzer Pl. and then walk north towards the river. Alternatively, take bus #46 from the Hauptbahnhof, which runs along the Museumsufer.
MUSEUM FUR ANGEWANDTE KUNST (MUSEUM FOR APPLIED ART)
Schaumankai 17
069 21 23 40 37 www.angewandtekunst-frankfurt.de
With an impressive display of art spanning over 5000 years, the modern wing of the museum is perhaps the most fun, with plenty of quirky chairs and lamps and other simple household items that highlight the evolution of industrial design. The futuristic new building is also connected to the original villa via a bridge on the second floor, inside of which furnished rooms represent unique styles and time periods.
On the eastern end of the Museumsufer, by the Eierner Steg footbridge. €8, students €4. Open Tu 10am-5pm, W 10am-9pm, and Th-Su 10am-5pm.
STÄDEL
Holbeinstr. 1
MUSEUM
069 696 05 09 80 www.staedelmuseum.de
The crown jewel of the Museumsufer presents seven centuries of art, from Old Masters like Botticelli, Rembrant, and Vermeer, to the fathers of modern art including Monet, Renoir, and Picasso. The permanent collection will be closed until summer 2011 for a top-down renovation, which will result in more space to house the museum’s expanded modern art collection. In the meantime, rotating temporary exhibits are on display.
By the Holbeinsteg, the colorful suspended footbridge. All captions in English. All prices and hours are set to change once the permanent collection reopens. €12, students €10, under 12 free. Audio tours €4, students €3. Open Tu 10am-8pm, W-Th 10am-10pm, and F-Su 10am-8pm.
LIEBIEGHAUS
Schaumankai 71
MUSEUM
069 650 04 90 www.liebieghaus.de
The impressive building and gardens contain classical, medieval, Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo statues, friezes, and other sculptures. A climb up the tower also leads you to several rooms still furnished in the house’s original style, full of cozy nooks and outstanding views of the Main.
Next door to and west of the Städel. €9, students 7, under 12 free. Audio tours €4, students €3. Open Tu 10am-6pm, W-Th until 10am-9pm, F-Su 10am-6pm.
DEUTSCHES FILMMUSEUM
Schaumankai 41
MUSEUM
069 961 22 00 www.deutschesfilmmuseum.de
Observe the progression of film from a 19th-century obsession with optical illusions to the first pictures by the Lumière Brothers. Under renovation until spring 2011, the new museum promises more space and a larger soundproof theater.
By the Untermainbrücke. Hours and prices will be set when the museum reopens.
FOOD
Frankfurters love sausages and beer, but they have their own regional specialties as well. Feast on Handkäse mit Musik, a gel-like translucent yellow cheese with a strong flavor, served with vinegar and topped with onions. Grüne Sosse, or green sauce, is actually a white sauce made green with borrage, sorrel, chives, and other assorted green herbs and served with peeled potatoes and boiled eggs. Wash both of these specialties down with Apfelwein (also called Ebbelwoi), apple wine, poured from a blue and white porcelain Bembel into small 0.3L Geripptes glasses. Portions of apple wine should never exceed €2 and are regularly enjoyed in Sachsenhausen, the old district on the southern side of the Main.
The most reasonably-priced meals can be found around the Hauptbahnhof, with a large variety of ethnic (mostly Asian) eateries, and in the university district of Bockenheim (take U4, U6 or U7: Bockenheimer Warte). A number of inexpensive food carts and stands populate the Zeil as well as the large shopping district around Hauptwache. For cheap do-it-yourself meals, keep your eyes peeled for Penny Markt (Hanauer Landstr. 1-5, right off the Zeil. Open M-Sa 7am-10pm) or Aldi Süd (Darmstädter Landstr. 10, in Sachsenhausen. Open M-Sa 8am-8pm). At Hauptwache, the Galeria Kaufhof (Zeil 116-126. Open M-W 9:30am-8pm, Th-Sa 9:30am-9pm) also has a grocery store in the basement.
North of the Main
DAS LEBEN IST SCHÖN
Hanauer Landstr. 128
ITALIAN
069 43 05 78 70 www.daslebenistschoen.de
This restaurant proclaims “life is beautiful,” and looking upon the portraits on the walls, one can’t help but agree. A bite of the piping hot pastas or freshly baked pizzas will confirm the sentiment. A summer patio is decorated with nautical themes.
Tram 11: Schwedlerstr, then keep heading west for a ½-block. Entrees €6.80-16.80. Open M-Th 11:30am-midnight, F 11:30am-1am, Sa noon-1am, Su 6pm-midnight.
KLEINMARKTHALLE
Hasengasse 5
MARKET
069 21 23 36 96 www.kleinmarkthalle.de
Make your own lunch in this three-story warehouse of bakeries, butchers, and produce stands. Cutthroat competition among the many vendors keeps prices low. Find enough meat to feed a small nation, though most of it is raw.
U4 or U5: Römer/Dom, then head toward the Dom and continue north about a ½ block past the Museum für Moderne Kunst. Open M-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8am-4pm.
IMA MULTIBAR
Kleine Bockenheimer Str. 14
WRAPS
069 90 02 56 65 www.ima-multibar.de
One of the only affordable eateries by the opulent Goethestr., IMA Multibar serves up delicious and hearty wraps and salads to throngs of shoppers and young professionals. The fast-paced (pay up at the front) and hip (check out the bathroom sinks) combo makes for a popular spot both for lunch and for nighttime drinks.
U6 or U7: Alte Oper, then head west on Kalbacher Gasse, turn right onto Goethestr., then turn left into the small back alley. Wraps €7.50-9. Salads €4.50-12. Open M-W 11am-10:30pm, Th-Sa 11am-1:30am. Kitchen open M-W 11am-9:30pm, Th-Sa 11am-midnight.
CAFE LAUMER
Bockenheimer Landstr. 67
CAFE
069 72 79 12 www.cafe-laumer.de
Dine li
ke a local on the outdoor patio or backyard garden of this celebrated cafe in the West End, only a few blocks from the university. Young businessmen on their lunch break enjoy the hearty special of the day (€6.40-9.80) while neighborhood residents read the newspaper, drink a cup of coffee (€2.20) and eat generous slices of cake (€2.40-3.20).
U6 or U7: Westend, then head east on Bockenheimer Landstr. to restaurant on right. Entrees €4.60-9.80. Open M-F 9am-8pm, Sa 8:30am-7pm, Su 9:30am-7pm.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 92