• GOLDEN BEACH: Head to this classy beach on Batsi with hordes of other sunbathers (GOLDEN BEACH).
student life
Don’t go to the Ancient Agora to make any new friends—you’re about 2600 years too late. Instead, head to Exharia after dark, the student hub of Athens. It’s always packed with young people and is the least touristy part of Athens you’re likely to find. Better yet, there are foosball tables in the square for public use. So find two Spaniards and two Dutchmen, pit them against each other, and see if they have the same outcome as the 2010 World Cup final.
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ORIENTATION
Syntagma
Syntagma Square is the center of Athens’ transportation hub. The stately, Neoclassical Parliament building and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier mark the foot of the nature lovers’ haven, the National Gardens. Looking in the opposite direction, the long stretch of Ermou teems with high-fashion shops and trend-seeking teenagers on skateboards. The bustling square has gum spots blackening the white tile floor and is surrounded by roads crammed with public transport. Airport-bound buses leave from the right edge of the square, and the main metro entrance is across from the Parliament on Amalias. The trolley lets out on the top right corner of the square, and cabs are everywhere. Georgiou, Filelinon, and Othonos border the other three sides of the square. Step out of the main square and Syntagma quiets significantly. Streets wind along, cafe tables sit in wait, and shop owners attempt to lure in customers. Mltropoleos, Ermou, and Karageorgi Servias (which turns into Perikleous, then Athinados) start here and extend far into Monastiraki and Psiri. The occasional public concert, the changing of the guard at the Parliament Building, and the abundance of unlicensed vendors around the square add to Syntagma’s status as an energetic center of human activity.
Plaka
Situated in the middle of the triangle formed by Syntagma Square, Monastiraki Square, and the Acropolis, Plaka is a plush, touristy section of Athens that’s surprisingly the best place for low-budget travelers to live while in the city. Many of the streets are pedestrian thoroughfares with only a few wayward motorbikes, and vendors take full advantage of this extra sidewalk space. While Kydatheneon and Adrianou have scores of tourist-oriented tavernas and souvenir shops, the smaller and quieter streets have retained an antique charm.
Monastiraki
Behind the metro station, which borders on Hadrian’s Library, and across Ermou, is a maze of streets speckled with bead shops, artisan’s stores, scrumptious restaurants, and interesting nooks. Nowhere in Athens are pedestrians as stylish nor ice cream shops so picturesque. Sticking to the main straightaway of Athinas, perpendicular to Ermou at the square, is far more touristy but after a few blocks leads to the Meat Market, which is certainly worth a visit for those with strong stomachs.
Exarhia
In 1973, students in Exarhia participated in a powerful demonstration against the right-wing dictatorship that was then in control of the Athenian government. Today, this section of Athens is still a hotspot for youth culture and is filled with graffiti, coffeeshops, and shisha (think hookah, you westerners). Be wary of getting lost on the way to a destination in this sometimes desolate neighborhood, but don’t let the difficulty stop you from seeing this anarchist-enclave-turned-bohemian-mecca in the flesh—especially for a hip dinner.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Syntagma
“JOHN’S PLACE” GUEST HOUSE
Patrou 5
HOTEL
210 32 29 719
For a trip back to another era, stay in this parquet-floored, steep-staired yet somehow homey hotel. “John” seems to have forgotten all modern amenities when founding this hotel that lacks internet, television, elevator, and credit card capabilities. However, A/C is available in each fresh-linened room, and the white embroidered drapes let in a pleasing amount of afternoon sunlight. High ceilings and Tiffany blue walls add charm to each floor’s common space. Make sure to lock valuables in the room’s safe; it has been said that the woman at the front desk seems to be fond of her afternoon naps.
From Syntagma square, walk down Mitropoleos 4 blocks; Patrou is on the left. Singles €35, doubles €50, triples €60.
For details on Athens map, click here
HOTEL KIMON
Apollonos 27
HOTEL
210 331 4658 www.kimonhotelathens.com
Long and quiet hallways, a fire extinguisher on every landing, and an attentive man behind the desk make this is a well-tended hotel. Cantaloupe-colored walls and prismatic glass windows on the stairway landings add some pizzazz to the otherwise cramped space—including some rooms with balconies just large enough to cram two people—expertly magnified by full-length mirrors at the entrance. Not the cheapest hotel, Kimon might be saved by the diligence of its staff.
From Syntagma square, walk down Mitropoleos 3 blocks. Request a room with a safe. Breakfast of eggs and juice can be added for €5 per person. Late June-Sept doubles €60-€70; Oct-June doubles €50-€60.
Plaka
STUDENT AND TRAVELLER’S INN
16 Kydathineon
HOSTEL
210 32 44 808 www.studenttravellersinn.com
Centrally located, full of friendly people, and constantly pulsing with a Top-40 playlist, Student and Traveller’s Inn is a backpacker’s dream come true. Every need is met in this no-frills establishment. This hostel is located right at the top of a street lined with restaurants in the heart of every sight worth seeing, so if there’s room and you don’t mind bunk beds, this is the place to go.
Syntagma. Walk along Filelinon in the same direction as traffic. Turn right onto Kydatineon. Walk a few blocks and pass a church on your right. Same-day laundry €8 for 2kg wash, dry, and fold. Daily happy hour 6:30pm. Breakfast options around €5. June-Sept: 8-bed dorms €20; 4-bed €23, with bath €25. Singles €45, with bath €55; doubles €65, with bath €73; triples €81, with bath €90. From Oct-Mar prices drop by roughly €10. Reception 24hr. Quiet hours from 10:30pm. Happy hour daily 6:30pm.
HOTEL ACROPOLIS HOUSE
6-8 Kondrou
HOTEL
210 32 22 344, 210 32 26 241 www.acropolishouse.gr
Located within an old mansion near Syntagma Square, this hotel offers a charming stay for travelers looking to find a taste of home in Greece. The cozy rooms, though not large, have all the amenities one could want, and the family staff is warm. From the third floor hallway there is a fabulous view of the Acropolis, and a few rooms have balconies that overlook the neighborhood. Potted greenery abounds.
At intersection of Iperidou and Kondrou just a few blocks from Syntagma. TV and phone in all rooms. Wi-Fi included but works only on ground floor for most computers. Breakfast included. May-Oct singles €68; doubles for 1-2 nights €91, for over 2 nights €83; triples €119/108. Nov-Apr singles for 1-2 nights €56, for over 2 nights €51; doubles €70/64; triples €91/83.
Monastiraki
HOTEL PELLA INN
104 Ermou
HOTEL
210 32 50 598 www.pella-inn.gr
This hostel reminiscent of a ski lodge is run by a maternal woman who cares for the hostel like it is her own offspring. Though the decor is a bit dated, everything is clean. Bring a drink or snack up to the roof—the view of Athens and the Acropolis is phenomenal.
From Monastiraki, walk down Ermou and take a right onto Karaiskaki; the hotel will be on the left. Breakfast included. Laundry €6. Doubles €50-60; triples €120.
CECIL HOTEL
Athinas 39
HOTEL
210 32 17 079 www.cecil,gr
Located in the heart of Monastiraki and graced with a metal grate elevator perfect for travelers schlepping huge bags around, this hotel is larger than most. The charming dining room has upholstered chairs that seat a well-dressed clientele.
For details on Acropolis and Agora map, click here
From Monastiraki, cross Ermou and walk down Ath
inas a few blocks; Cecil Hotel will be on the left. Breakfast included. Singles €60; doubles €70; triples €120; family suits €160.
Exarhia
HOTEL EXARCHION
55 Themistokleous
HOTEL
210 38 00 731
Right in the middle of Exharia’s hipster-zone, Exarchion is a convenient spot to get a taste of Athens’ youth culture. This part of town is lively at night and close to plenty of coffeshops and tavernas that are popular with the locals. Very clean and wheelchair-accessible, Hotel Exarchion is the best sleeping option in the area.
Half a block down from the base of Pl. Exharia. Breakfast €5. Singles €50; doubles €50; triples €70; family suite €90.
HOTEL ORION AND DRYADES
105 Em. Benaki and 4 Dryadon
HOTEL
210 33 02 387 www.orion-dryades.com
This hotel is an amalgamation of 2 hotels that used to exist side-by-side, and it’s a bit scattered as a result. Located at the extremity of Exharia, Orion and Dryades is off the beaten track and houses dated decor and a creaky elevator. But with great prices and clean rooms, think of walking back to the hotel from the sights as a free daily workout.
From Pl. Syntagma, take bus #230 to Kalidromiou. Or, walking from Pl. Syntagma, follow Panipistimiou and take a right onto Em. Benaki. Breakast €6. Laundry €3 per load. Wi-Fi €10 per week. Singles €25; doubles €35, with bath €60.
SIGHTS
Acropolis
Throughout its 2,500 year existence, the Acropolis has seen its fair share of action. Though somewhat worn for the wear (oh hey, Lord Elgin), it is a fascinating and quintessentially Athenian site. The Acropolis began as a political center in the Mycenean period from the 15th to 12th centuries BC. The king lived atop the hill that now provides tourists a breathtaking view of the entirety of Athens, from the Aegean Sea to the mountains. But in the 8th century BCE a temple was erected to honor Athena, the patron goddess of Athens, and ever since the story of the Acropolis has been one of construction, demolition and changing religious orders. Perhaps no site other than the Dome of the Rock rivals the Acropolis’ multi-denominational appeal.
The first temple, called the Hekatopmpedos for its measly 100 foot length, was made of wood and probably was not much to look at. So, just under 50 years later, the Athenians decided to construct a more elaborate temple, now known as the Old Temple. In celebration of their victory in the battle of Marathon in 490 BCE, the ancient Athenians decided that a third renovation was in order. But just 10 years later in 480 BCE, Xerxes and his Persian army swept Sparta and in order to fight the intruder at sea (the Athenians’ strong suit) rather than land (Xerxes’ strength), the Athenians fled the city, abandoning the Acropolis. Xerxes and his crew vandalized the newest temple, smashing statues’ heads and wreaking general havoc. Not until Pericles’ heyday from 450 BCE-429 BCE did the Athenians decide to face the ruins and build yet again, and this reconstruction resulted in the Parthenon.
After its tumultuous, extended, and awkward growth spurt, the Acropolis went through an angsty, religiously unsound period. From the 4th century AD until Greece claimed independence in 1833, the Acropolis went from its original dedication to Athena to a Christian Orthodox church to a Catholic church under the Byzantine Empire to a center of Muslim faith under Ottoman occupation—if this doesn’t confuse you, well done. During this phase, Lord Elgin, a British ambassador to the Ottoman Empire, carried some of the Parthenon’s remains with him back to Britain, where they now remain in the British Museum—much to the dismay of many Greeks.
Now, centuries after its founding, the Acropolis is a tourist site and is currently undergoing another renovation started in 1983. Even through the throngs of tourists, looking down on Athens from a vantage point that must be like that of Mount Olympus, it is possible to imagine why the Acropolis and its turf have been fought over for so long.
Admission gets you into the archeological site of the Acropolis, the archeological site and museum of the Ancient Agora, the north and south slopes of the Acropolis, the Theatre of Dionysis, the Roman Agora, Kerameikos, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, and Hadrian’s Library. €12, students and EU seniors €6, EU students and internationals under 19 free on Su. Open daily 8am-7:30pm. )
Parthenon
The Parthenon is the pinnacle of the Acropolis—historically, geographically, and artistically. Designed at the height of Periclean democracy by Iktinos, the structure, though now only the remnants of what once stood, is commonly seen as a symbol of Western culture. It took only nine years to build the Parthenon, but many layers of design went into its construction. The temple, which consists of over 16,500 pieces of white marble, is Doric but has Ionic features, and eight columns line each of its narrow sides. Now only white, the Parthenon was formerly painted inside with friezes and a deep blue hue. There were three key design features to the Parthenon. First, the metopes, or relief slabs, depicted scenes from Greek mythology like the war between the gods and the giants and the fight the centaurs had over women. Second, the Parthenon had Ionic friezes. The last, and perhaps the most notable design feature is that of the pediments, which were mounted between 438 and 432 BCE along the top of the columns. The East pediment, laid out in great detail on the third floor of the Acropolis museum, tells the story of the moment of Athena’s birth when she sprung from Zeus’ head. The West pediment shows the contest between Athena and Poseidon for Athens, when her olives won out over his salt water.
Erechtheum
Set to the left of the Parthenon, the Erechtheum is divided into two parts—the East portion to Athena, the West portion to her losing foe in the bid for Athens, Poseidon. The monument was built during the Peloponessian War between 421 BCE and 409 BCE. Work was paused while Athens went to war with Sicily and resumed at the completion of that battle, which did not go well for Athens. The Erechtheum is notable for the six Caryatid statues—women standing in a horseshoe shape supporting the roof—and is named after a hero Poseidon supposedly smote in his losing bid for Athens.
Propylaea
The Propylaea is the gateway to the Acropolis. Once a majestic entryway through which all walked, it is now a somewhat haggard collection of columns. First constructed in 437 BCE under Pericles’ instruction, the Propylaea was never fully completed because of a series of wars that interrupted its construction. The same blast that damaged the Temple of Athena Nike in 1686 also damaged the structure, ambitious in its many tiers and mixed Doric and Ionic styles. A renovation project began in 1984 was recently completed, so enjoy the Propylaea in all its dilapidated splendor.
Theater of Dionysus
Down a path to the right of the main entrance to the Acropolis sits a giant, steep-stepped ancient theater that must strike fear in anyone who stands on its stage. Originally constructed in honor of Dionysus, the ancient Greek god of making merry through the aid of dance and wine, the theater became a place of celebration and artistic ecstasy. One ceremony led to another, and in 500 BCE a contest for playwrights that had been in Athens’ outskirts was moved to the city. It was in this theatre that Aeschylus’, Sophocles’, Euripides’, and Aristophanes’ plays were first performed in honor of the gods. Recently, the theatre was renovated, and it now serves as a fully functional performance space.
Temple of Athena Nike
As you and hundreds of other travelers ascend the steep, slippery steps toward the Parthenon and walk through the Proplyaea, glance to your right: you will see the Temple of Athena Nike. Designed in the Ionic style by the famed architect Kallikrates during the Peace of Nikias from 421-415 BCE, the temple is now in its third iteration. Like the Parthenon, this temple has been ransacked many times throughout its history, primarily during the Turkish-Venetian War (1686-1687 AD). The temple initially had a frieze that was more than 25m long and depicted scenes of Athenian military success, but four parts of the initial 14 are now in the British Museum, and other portions have been destroyed. Make sure to check out some of the sections that are inside t
he Acropolis Museum on the second floor.
Agora
If the Acropolis was the showpiece of the ancient capital, the Agora was its heart and soul. It served as the city’s marketplace, administrative center, and focus of daily life from the sixth century BCE through the sixth century CE. Socrates, Demosthenes, Aristotle, and St. Paul all debated democracy in its hallowed stalls. The 500-person Boule, or senate of ancient times, met in the Bouleuterion to make decisions for this city, and the Monument of the Eponymous Heroes functioned as an ancient tabloid, where the government posted honors and lawsuits. Following its heyday, the Agora, like the Acropolis, passed through the hands of various conquerors. The ancient market emerged again in the 19th century, when a residential area built above it was razed for excavations. Today, the Agora is a peaceful respite from the bustling Athens around it.
TEMPLE OF HEPHAESTUS
The impressive temple atop Kolonos Agraraiso Hill is dedicated to Hephaestus, the Greek god of metal working. The temple is made mostly of Pentelic marble in the Doric style and has friezes that depict the battle between Athenian hero Theseus and the Pallantids along its ceiling. Built from 460-415 BCE, the temple was in use through 1834 but is now the best-preserved Classical temple in all of Greece.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 99