Opposite Monastiraki. Gyros from €1.80. Open daily 9am-2am.
IRIDANOS
Adrianou 9
TAVERNA
210 32 79 678
A standard taverna at the base of the Agora, Iridanos serves Greek classics like lamb and potatoes (€8) to clients resting in wicker chairs with blue cushions. Steer clear of the fancy beverages—they may cost more than your meal.
Down Adrianou. Entrees €6-12. Mixed drinks from €5. Open daily 9am-2am.
Exarhia
BARBA YIANIS
94 Em. Benaki
TAVERNA
210 38 24 138
This taverna has been around for 90 years, and it hasn’t lost any of its charm. Pale yellow walls, high ceilings, and a cafeteria-style food selection make this a cozy place to sit and enjoy some classic Greek “homefood,” in the words of the manager. Try the beef in small pieces (€8), roast pork in lemon sauce (€8), and the green beans (€5).
Straignt up Em. Benaki from Panepistimiou by Pl. Syntagma. Entrees €5-€12. Open M-Sa noon-1am, Su noon-7pm.
BOE
Araxobis 56
CAFE
210 38 35 811
A hipster coffee shop in a hipster area. In a giant corner venue with umbrellas and chairs out front, this cafe stays busy until closing every night. Settle in with a book or laptop and pass the afternoon away in the cool, marble-floored environment, then head outside with friends at night for some cappuccino and conversation. On a budget? Take your beverages to go—Boe, like many restaurants in Athens, has cheaper prices for takeout.
Opposite Club Creperie Xarchia in Pl. Exarhia. Cappuccino freddo €3.80. Fresh orange juice €5, €3 if taken to go. Open daily 9am-midnight.
KAVOURAS
64 Themistokleous
SOUVLAKI
210 38 38 010
Cheap souvlaki and beer in a great location make Kavouras a great spot for a quick lunch or dinner. Add a vegetarian souvlaki to any meal for just €0.90. Though variety isn’t this place’s forte—the menu consists entirely of souvlaki—it does this Greek fast food staple well.
Half a block from the base of Pl. Exharia. Souvlaki with meat €1.70; vegetarian €0.90. Beer €1.50-2.50. Open daily 11am-3am.
CLUB CREPE XARCHIA
Corner of Ikonomou and M. Themistokleous on Pl. Exarhia
FAST FOOD
210 38 40 773
Delicious crepes right on Pl. Exarhia. Huge salads (€5) come with tons of ingredients, but the food is made to order and not as quick as the self-proclaimed “fast food” moniker would suggest. Fidgety people and late-night eaters beware: seating is on a bit of a slant and you may topple over on accident.
At the tip of Pl. Exarhia. Food made to order. Salads €5. Crepes €3. Open daily noon-4am.
BARBARA’S FOOD COMPANY
Em. Benaki 63
INTERNATIONAL
210 38 03 004 www.bfoodcompany.gr
Wide, white-painted boards and metallic countertops give this spacious eatery an airy feel. Greek yuppies sit at tables and try the rigatoni with mozzarella (€6), the salmon with ginger and orange (€8.50), and fettuccini with swordfish and tomatoes (€7.50).
At the tip of Pl. Exarhia. Entrees around €8. Open M-Sa 12:30pm-12:30am, Su 1-11:30pm.
Pagrati
CUCINA POVERA
Eforionos 13
RESTAURANT
210 75 66 088 www.cucinapovera.gr
Though this restaurant’s name translates to “poor man’s kitchen,” Cucina Povera is anything but cheap. Its menu is written daily based on market specials, and its sage green walls and pine wood tables create an atmosphere that is both earthy and classy. Some of the dishes are vegetable-based, like the green salad with beet root and warm goat cheese (€9), and others might turn a sensitive stomach, like the assortment of cooked intestines on the menu. Regardless of preference, Cucina Povera is sure to satisfy; be forewarned that these rich panhandlers will take all your spare change and then some.
Walk east from the Panathenaic Stadium (away from the Acropolis) on Vas. Konstandinou, then turn right on Eratosthenous and left onto Eforionos. Wine selection tops 350 choices. Meals €25, excluding wine. Open in summer M-Sa 8pm-midnight; in winter, Tu-Sa 1-5pm.
POSTO CAFE
Pl. Plastira 2
CAFE
210 75 62 379
With red plastic chairs and lots of green plants around the patio area, this super-cheap cafe has a slight Gilligan’s Island feel to it. Though they claim to be open 24/7, the cafe is closed for the brief window of 7-9am on Monday mornings. Otherwise, though, this is a great spot to sit with a cheap frappe, crepe, or beer and take advantage of the free Wi-Fi.
In Pl. Plastira. Look for it behind the green potted plants. Free Wi-Fi. Soda €1. Coffee €2. Orange juice €3. Small draft beer €2, large €3; bottle of beer €2.50. Crepes €2.50. Open M midnight-7am and 9am-midnight, Tu-Su 24hr.
NIGHTLIFE
Plaka
CHANDELIER PLAKA
4 Benizelou
BAR
210 331 6330 www.chandelier.gr
This quirky, ultra-modern bar is a hotspot Thursday through Saturday but quieter during the week. It serves up a variety of alcoholic concoctions, from standard beverages like strawberry daiquiris (€9) and mojitos (€4.50) to specialty drinks like the “Green Boy” that mixes cucumbers, lemon, and mustard with alcohol (€4.50) and the “Honey Love” that combines banana, lemon, honey, orange, and pineapple with a mixed drink to form a fruity frenzy (€4.50). If alcohol isn’t your thing, a plethora of booze-free drinks fill up two whole pages of the establishment’s menu.
Syntagma. Walk down Mitropoleos, take a left onto Evangelistrias after 7 blocks. Chandelier Plaka is 2 blocks down. €4-10. Open daily 7pm-2am.
BRETTOS
Kolonaki 41
BAR
210 33 17 793
In the mood to stomp on some 40-year-old’s toes when fighting for a seat? Maybe brush up on someone else’s fanny pack or jean shorts? Try Brettos, a bar in the heart of Tourist Land, Athens. With brightly colored bottles illuminating the high ceilings and functional barrels of beer lining the right wall, Brettos looks like fun, but its size and crowds make it almost too jam-packed to enjoy. With no room for dancing, conversation flows as freely as the wine or the ouzo (bottles from €19).
Syntagma. Walk down Filelinon to Kidathineon. 4 blocks down on the left. Red wine by the glass from €2. Ouzo from €2.50. Open M-F 10am-2am, Sa-Su 10am-3am.
CINE PARIS ROOF GARDEN CINEMA
Kyd
OUTDOOR CINEMA
210 32 22 071 www.cineparis.gr
Want to get drunk and see a movie at the same time? Don’t try to sneak that six pack of Natty into the nearby theater. Instead, head to Cine Paris Roof Garden Cinema to booze while you watch films in an ivy-laced rooftop garden in the middle of Plaka. Opened in the ’20s by a Greek hairdresser who had lived in Paris, this cinema showcases thrillers like the “King of Mykonos” and recent blockbusters like Knight and Day.
Syntagma. Walk down Filelinon to Kidathineon. 3 blocks down on the right. All movies in English subtitled in Greek. €8, students €6. Drinks at the rooftop bar €2-6. Movies begin daily at 8:45pm.
Monastiraki and Psiri
OINOPNEUMATA
Miaouli 21
BAR
210 32 39 370
Located on a street that is almost exclusively bars, Oinopneumata is the most crowded. Filled with teenagers unabashedly making out and others actively disputing the rules of soccer, this is a great place to come for some beers (from €4) in an unadorned, raucous environment.
From Monastiraki, cross Ermou street and walk down Miaouli 2 blocks. Rakomelo €8 for 8 shots. Shisha €10. Open daily 6pm-2am.
PSIRA
Miaouli 19
BAR
210 32 44 046
Order some rakomelo, Greece’s local alcohol sweetened with honey, for €8 at this bar serviced by a friendly sta
ff. Enjoy a slight breeze and good company in the outdoor seating, or head inside for a lively conversation.
Monastiraki. Cross Ermou street and walk down Miaouli 2 blocks. Beer €4. Ouzo €7. Rakomelo €8. Open M-Th noon-2am, F-Sa noon-4am, Su noon-3am.
KAZOZA
Miaouli 13
BAR
210 32 16 469
The actual countertop to this bar is around the corner from Miaouli street in a hole in the wall, and customers only set foot inside to search for the bathroom. Most just sit down at a table outside along Miaouli proper and wait for the waiter to come take their order. With just plain chairs and tables and no real decoration, enjoy the free peanuts—what else do you need with your beer?
From Monastiraki, cross Ermou street and walk down Miaouli 2 blocks. Beer €4-5. Wine €6. Ouzo €7. Honey and wine €12 per ½L. Shisha €10. Open daily 7:30pm-4am.
Exarhia
TRAIN CAFE
Em. Benaki 72
CAFE, BAR
210 38 44 355
A train carved into a slab of wood and painted with red and blue paint gives this well-lit wood bar its name. Though customers are sparse in the summer, crowds come in the wintertime to try the psimeni raki (€4), a cocktail made of raki, honey, sugar, and herbs.
Syntagma. Follow Panepistimiou to Em. Benaki. Beer €3. Open daily 10am-3am.
UNDERGROUND
Metaxa 21
BAR
210 38 22 019
If this bar could make a noise, it would be a gruff and sustained “grrr!” Black decor and bartenders wearing headbands and piercings give this bar a slight punk feel, and alternative music gives this place a truly underground vibe.
Syntagma. Follow Panepistimiou to Em. Benaki. Take a left onto Andrea Metaxa. Underground is half a block down on the left side of the street. Look for the glass panel with the doorknob. Draft beer €4. Special cocktails €7. Open M-Th 10am-2am, F-Sa 10am-4am, Su 10am-2am.
Kolonaki
SHOWROOM
12 Milioni and 4 Iraklitou
BAR
210 36 46 460 www.showroomcafe.gr
Settle into a comfortable white leather barstool at this local hangout not yet discovered by tourists. Although it’s not cheap, Showroom is worth the splurge. As evidenced by the pineapple and bananas in the silver bowl prominently on display at the bar, its drinks are all made with fresh fruit. Soft, bongo-like background music gives the bar a relaxed feel, so order a drink and stay for a while.
Syntagma. Follow Vas. Sofias past the Parliament Building to Sekeri. Take a left onto Sekeri and then a right onto Konstantinou Kanari. Milioni is 1 block down on the left side of the street. Beer €7. Mixed drinks €12. Open daily 8am-2am.
TRIBECA
Skoufa 46
BAR
210 36 23 541
Hunter green walls and dark wood line this bar geared toward an older crowd. Few under 30 can be seen at Tribeca, where most of the customers are graying. Dancing isn’t the MO for this mature crew, but settle in at a standard outdoor table for a ginger mango daiquiri (€9.50) for a palette-confusing experience.
Syntagma. Follow Panepistimiou to Omirou. Turn left on Skoufa. Cocktails €9.50. Open M-Sa 9:30am-3am, Su 10am-2am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Festivals
ATHENS FESTIVAL
Panepistimiou 39
210 32 72 000 www.greekfestival.gr
Also known as the Hellenic Festival, this outpouring of the arts takes place from early June to July in a number of venues throughout Athens. Ranging from classical music concerts and dance recitals to plays and concerts by modern artists like Rufus Wainwright (of Shrek “Hallelujah” fame), performances are not so much insights into Athenian culture or tradition as a promise of a fun summer night in a beautiful city.
To get to the box office from Syntagma, follow Filelinon in the direction of traffic for 2 blocks to Nikodimou, which turns into Flessa. Make a slight right onto Kiristou; take Kiristou to Mnissikleous, and follow Mnissikleous to the end. See website for annual list of performances. Tickets from €15-50. Open daily 9am-2pm and 6-9pm.
VIRGIN MARY DAY
Virgin Mary Day is actually a three-day-long festival beginning on August 15, the day Greeks celebrate the birth of Mary. With free foods, orchestra concerts, dancing, partying and other things the Virgin Mary probably didn’t partake in too much during her time, the Greeks enjoy themselves during this 72hr. holiday.
SHOPPING
Athens’ shopping can be divided into three categories: the touristy, the everyday necessities, and the posh. Shopping for tourist memorabilia is best done in the Athens Flea Market, located directly to the right of Monastiraki, or in Plaka along Kydathineon. Amongst the tavernas there are a shocking number of shops selling exactly the same cotton dresses, keychains, magnets, packaged soaps, and T-shirts that will make great gifts for Aunt Darlene and Uncle Jim. For the everyday non-Greece specific shopping, head to Ermou. Follow it from Pl. Syntagma down to Pl. Monastiraki and pass staples like H and M and Sephora, in addition to their Greek equivalents. This area is where most Athenian teenagers buy their wardrobes, and it’s the place to look for that last-minute pair of shorts or bathing suit. The posh shopping is in Kolonaki, along Tsakalof or any street branching off of Panepistimiou up toward Pl. Kolonaki. Foreign designers from Theory to Lacoste to Longchamp have their stores here.
Outdoor Markets
FISH AND MEAT MARKET
On Athinas between Armoudiou and Aristogeitonos
SYNTAGMA
Squeamish beware: this place is not for the soft-hearted or for people who coo over pictures of kittens. Carcasses swing from behind glass encasements, and the thwack of butchers chopping their meat echoes through the concrete enclosure. Men in bloody aprons parade around as whole lambs stare with vacant eyes. The fish market smells horrendous but is a bit tamer.
From Syntagma, walk down Ermou street and turn left on Athinas. Open daily 4am-6pm.
VARNAKIOS
On Athinas between Armoudiou and Aristogeitonos
SYNTAGMA
Like a supermarket with one aisle and a rougher crowd of check-out people, Varnakios has everything needed to stock an Athenian kitchen or cook a fresh meal. In fact, make it your one-stop shop for finding the makings of a fresh Greek meal. On the right side of this side-street-turned-grocery-store are tables invisible beneath cartons of tomatoes, cucumbers, peaches, cherries, and other varieties of fresh produce. On the left side of the “aisle” are shops with prepackaged edibles and soaps as well as eggs and dairy.
Syntagma. Walk down Ermou and turn left onto Athinas. Produce €1-3; shop prices vary. Open M-Th 6am-7pm, F-Sa 5am-8pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The Information Office travel brochures are helpful and their Athens map indispensable. Ask for the lists of museums, embassies, and banks. Most up-to-date bus, train, and ferry schedules and prices also available. ( Amalias 26 210 33 10 392 www.visitgreece.gr Open M-F 9am-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-4pm.)
• BUDGET TRAVEL OFFICES: Academy Travel specializes in custom island-hopping routes. (Iperidou 3 210 32 45 071 www.academytravelgreece.com Open daily 9am-10pm.) STA Travel. (Voulis 43 210 32 11 88 www.e-travelshop.gr Open M-F 9am-5pm, Sa 10am-2pm.) Adrianos Travel, Ltd. (Pandrossou 28 210 32 20 702 www.ticketgreece.gr Open daily 9am-6pm.) Meliton Travel (23b Apolonos 210 32 47235 www.melitontravel.gr Open in summer M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 10am-2pm; winter M-F 9am-5pm.)
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: National Bank, Karageorgi Servias 2, in Pl. Syntagma. (21033 40 500 Open M-Th 8am-2:30pm, F 8am-2pm.) Citibank, the post office, some hotels, and other banks offer currency exchange. Commission is usually around 5%.
• LUGGAGE STORAGE: Pacific Ltd. is in El. Venizelos Airport’s arrivals terminal, across from the large cafe. (210 35 30 160 www.pacifictravel.gr €2 per day. €30 per month. Open 24hr.) Main branch at 26 Nikis in Syntagma. (210 32 41 007 €2 per day, €30 per month. Open M-F 9am-6pm.) Many hotels have free or i
nexpensive luggage storage. Lockers are also available at Monastiraki, Piraeus, and Omonia.
• LAUNDROMATS: Most plintirias (launderers) have signs reading “Laundry.” National. (Apolonos 17 in Syntagma 210 32 32 226 www.nationaldrycleaners.gr Wash, dry, and fold €4.50 per kg., min. 2 kg. Dry cleaning: men’s shirt €3, dress pants €5. Open M 8am-5pm, Tu 8am-8pm, W 8am-5pm, Th-F 8am-8pm.) Zenith (Apolonos 12 and Pendelis 1 210 32 38 533 Wash, dry, and fold €4 per kg. Open M 8am-4pm, Tu 8am-8pm, W 8am-4pm, Th-F 8am-8pm.)
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 101