From Taxi Sq., walk along the waterfront to the left. Right before passing the port, take a left onto the street that has a visible upward slant; the Folklore Museum will be on the right before you reach the church. €2, students free. Open M-Sa 5:30-8:30pm, Su 6:30-8:30pm.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Scuba
MYKONOS DIVING CENTER
Behind Tropicana Bar at Paradise Beach
DIVE SHOP
228 90 24 808 www.dive.gr
Though your typical Mykonos tourist is known more for valuing what’s on the surface than for looking beneath, the pale blue seas hold reefs and even a cement boat that sunk 30m that entertain divers of all abilities. At this official PADI dive center, beginners willing to dedicate three days to the activity can earn scuba certification, and those who already have a beginner license can take classes to become advanced. Those who want to try wearing the mask but don’t want to sacrifice three days of tanning time to wear a wetsuit can try the “Discover Scuba Diving” course and dive to a depth of 12m.
Set back behind Tropicana Bar on Paradise Beach. PADI dive center. All equipment included in prices. Minors need guardian signature. Make reservations 48hr. in advance and cancel more than 24hr. in advance; cancellation fee €60. Snorkeling €40. “Discover Scuba Diving” course €70. Full-day diving for certified divers €100. Night diver training €150. Open daily 9am-7pm.
Beaches
Mykonos is surrounded by beaches that give many a visitor a sun-kissed glow (or in the more dramatic cases, the appearance of having been submerged in a vat of tanning oil and then fried). Beaches fall into two categories—the pulsing music sort and the quieter, more family-friendly variety. The two main “pulsing music” beaches are Paradise Beach and Paraga Beach, which neighbor each other on the southern end of the island. Both have small rocks rather than sand and are harpooned with reed-covered umbrellas. Throughout the day both play top-40 dance tunes with added bass tracks, and at 5pm both beaches push the limits of the speakers’ capacity and turn the volume way up. Many gaudy bathing suits make their debut here, and nudity is welcome though not so common among the younger set: those most willing to disrobe are the older men.
Past these two beaches are Super Paradise, B. Agrari, and B. Elia. Super Paradise is a small but busy pebbly beach that lacks the pulsing soundtracks of its beach brethren. Most beachgoers here are in their mid-30s and still fit, though not buff enough to swim in the nude. B. Agrari is a quiet couples beach, and you probably need to ask the water taxi to stop here if it is your destination of choice. There are many open chairs and a floating wooden platform a bit out into the water for snuggling couples to lay on during sunsets. Elia (228 90 27 000), the last beach that water taxis hit on their usual route, is renowned as the gay beach, and a rainbow flag waves proudly above the sandy shore.
On the other side of Paraga and Paradise Beach are Psarou and Ornos. Ornos, the launching pad for many water taxis, is a family-friendly beach where an open space has been left open in the center of the beach for those who do not want to purchase chairs. Virtually no one opts out of swim trunks on this stretch of pebbly sand, where colorful straws mix with the stones. Psarou is also fairly quiet and family friendly. Off the water taxi route are two treasures of beaches, B. Panormos and Ag. Sositis. Both of these quiet beaches are on the northern side of the island and an ideal destination for those who do not want to be disturbed.
FOOD
SUISSE CAFE
End of Matoyani
CAFE, CREPERIE
228 90 27 462
Build your own salad of succulent tomatoes and cheeses topped with the cafe’s special dressing or indulge in a powdered crepe in this Alice-in-Wonderland-esque cafe and dessert place. With pinks, blues, and greens accenting the white tablecloths, the fantasy decor makes every female feel like a princess. Well-priced and a welcome break from the ubiquitous tavernas and in-your-face Greekness of many other eateries in the same price bracket, Suisse Cafe is a treasure.
From the Fabrika bus station, take the 1st right and follow that road down to the left. Turn right when you reach the intersection with the gyro place with bright blue window shutters, and then make a left. Ice cream from €2.50. Crepes €3.50-6. Banana split €9. Fresh-squeezed orange juice €3.50. Cocktails €6. Sandwiches from €5. Open daily 9:15am-midnight.
PASTA FRESCA
Kouzi Georgouli 15
ITALIAN
228 90 22 563
For some good ol’ Italian pasta come to...Mykonos? Down one of the main streets, a man in a white apron can be seen handmaking tortellini on a wooden table, with multicolored noodles spread out in front of him. Directly behind him, the products of his labor are served atop white tablecloths in the glow of candlelight and the sparkle of wine glasses. A variety of sauces are offered with these fresh pastas, and a wide selection of wines complement the course. This elaborate table is an ideal stage for romantic hand-holding.
On the main street from the bus station. Salads €11. Pasta dishes from €9. Open daily 3pm-3am.
PICCOLO
18 Drakopoulou
SANDWICH SHOP
228 90 22 208 www.piccolo-mykonos.com
An adorable sandwich place just a few blocks from the waterfront, Piccolo offers up scrumptious bite-size concoctions with prices a bit out of proportion with the size but worth the splurge. Fresh ingredients like tomatoes, olives, and eggplant brighten the deli counter, and fresh oranges for juice adds a colorful splash. Order from the extensive menu right inside the door, or make your own sandwich combination from the displayed ingredients. Top off the meal with a pastry on display in the glass case at the end of the deli counter.
From the waterfront, walk straight up Drakopoulou for 2 blocks. Sandwiches from €4.90 Open daily 9am-12:30am.
NIGHTLIFE
Many travelers arrive at Mykonos with two goals: get drunk and stay drunk. Both of those goals are readily achievable on an island that has built a reputation for itself as party-until-dawn-and-maybe-a-bit-after central. All varieties of spandex and skimpy shirts and dresses make their appearance every night of the week, because on Mykonos, the weekend knows no bounds. From the beach clubs to the bars in Mykonos Town, everyone has a place to go to mix with other sweaty bodies. DJs from around the world come to the island to spin at the clubs, and events are well-advertised. Just don’t make the mistake of going out too early: bars and clubs in town don’t heat up until around 1am, and the beach clubs don’t hit their full groove until 3am.
SKANDINAVIAN BAR AND DISCO
Agios Ioauis, Barkia
BAR, DANCE CLUB
22190 22 669 www.skandinavianbar.com
If you go to one club in Mykonos, this should be it. While the beach clubs advertise heavily, their giant venues leave partygoers with too much room around them for the appropriate sweaty club feel. The Skandinavian is just the right size for clubgoers to feel packed in and still have room to shimmy. Rather than spin over-played Top-40s, classics to the tune of “I Will Survive” set the tone for the night (though Drake has his turn), and bartenders are incredibly friendly and willing to add some extra booze to a drink upon request. If you are going to run into that tantalizing guy or girl you saw on the beach earlier, it will be on top of the heart-tiled Skandinavian Bar dance floor.
From the waterfront, walk up 2 blocks by the Hotel Apollon. Wine and beer €5. Vodka €7. Cocktails €8. Open daily 10pm-sunrise.
PIERRO’S
Ag. Kiriaki
GLBT
228 90 22 177 www.pierrosbar.gr
At around 1am, the street outside Pierro’s is filled with a throng of men—some in loafers, some in sneakers...and some in heels. This bar founded over 30 years ago has taken on the motto of “gay bar, straight friendly,” according to the owner’s wife, and every night the chocolate-colored decor is the backdrop for the heart of Mykonos’ gay scene. Most of the socializing takes place outside in a night breeze that ruffles the feathers of drag-queen headdresses rather t
han in the extensive space indoors. Though the crowd tends toward 30-year-olds, and women are few and far between, all are welcome.
Next to Taxi Sq. Drag show nightly 1am. Beer €5. Whisky €8. Cocktails €10. Open daily 10:30pm-4am.
BAR DOWN UNDER
Ag. Ioanninou
BAR
687 46 82 554
This appropriately named bar is a magnet for the many Australians who for one reason or another find themselves in Mykonos. The clientele tends to be quite attractive, but under the flashing bright blue and red lights, even these attractive bar-hoppers seem to bob awkwardly in place like buoys in the ocean. In an attempt to reel people into the bar’s dance space, a promoter stands by the door distributing cards worth a free shot. Take a card, take a free shot, and then move on for the rest of your night.
From the waterfront, walk up one block. Cocktails until midnight €5. Orgasm specialty drink €8. Mojitos €10. Buckets of each cocktail €25. Open daily 9pm-2am or later.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICE: Sea and Sky Travel Agency. (Above Remezzo bus station. 228 90 28 240).
• BUDGET TRAVEL OFFICES: Windmills Travel. (Next to South Station. 228 90 26 555 www.windmillstravel.com).
• CURRENCY EXCHANGE: Alpha Bank (Matogianni 41 228 90 23 180 Open M-Th 8am-2:30pm, F 8am-2pm.) offers currency exchange, as does Eurochange in Taxi Sq.
• LAUNDROMAT: Quick Clean offers laundry services. (228 90 27 323 Wash and dry €10.)
• INTERNET ACCESS: Several cafes on the waterfront and by Fabrika station offer Wi-Fi with a food or beverage purchase. Fast Internet (228 90 28 842 www.fastinternetgreece.com Open daily 10am-12:30am. €2.40 per hr.) is immediately on the right by Fabrika and next to Quick Clean.
• POST OFFICE: The post office (228 90 22 238 Open M-F 7:30am-2pm.) is located across the street from Space Club.
• POSTAL CODE: 84600.
Emergency!
• EMERGENCY NUMBER: 108.
• POLICE: Local police. (228 90 22 716 Open 24hr.) Tourist police. (228 90 22 482 Open daily 8am-9pm.) Both are located by the airport.
• HOSPITAL/MEDICAL SERVICES: (On the road leading from Fabrika station 228 90 23 994 Emergency care 24hr.)
Getting There
Mykonos is accessible from Athens by ferry (4hr.) and by plane (20min.).
By Plane
Olympic Airways, (228 90 22 490), Aegean Airlines (228 90 28 720), and Athens Airways all fly to Mykonos Airport (JMK).
By Ferry
Most boats dock at the New Port near Ag. Stefanos beach, 3km away from Mykonos Town, but some sea jets still dock at the Old Port. For information about which boats arrive where, call the port authority (228 90 22 218). Buy tickets at Sea and Sky Travel Agency (228 90 28 240), on the road above the Remezzo bus station and on the waterfront at Matogianni, where the latest ferry schedules are posted on its front porch. Ferries arrive from Andros, Naxos, Paros, Rafina, Piraeus, Syros, and Tinos.
Getting Around
Mykonos Town’s main entrance is the Fabrika bus station. Streets are rarely labeled, and if they are labeled, buildings are not numbered. If looking for somewhere specific, know its name and ask for directions from shop owners along the way. The windy roads date back to when pirates claimed Mykonos’ land and wanted to make their treasure chests as inaccessible as possible—and they succeeded. Be prepared to walk some as you find your destination. Though the town covers only a small geographic area, the paths loop around and you might get disoriented.
By Bus
Crossing from Mykonos Town to Paradise Beach or vice versa can be done by bus. ( €1.40 each way, €1.70 after midnight.) KTEL (228 90 23 360 €1.40-1.70) has two stations on Mykonos. Tickets can be purchased on the bus from the driver, in the KTEL ticket station by the bus stop, or in many of the bodegas surrounding the bus stops. Bus stations are more like glorified parking lots than actual stations.
By Bike
Bikes are available for rent beside the Fabrika bus station in numerous and well-labeled shops and at Paradise Beach and Paraga Beach Camping. Bikes on Mykonos are full-throttle, and only some places require previous experience with the fast-moving two-wheelers in order to rent one for 24hr. But roads are hilly and windy, and it is often impossible to see oncoming traffic because of curvatures in the roads, so be careful. Let’s Go does not condone drinking and driving—no matter what the vehicle.
By Taxi
Taxis (228 90 22 400 €5-12, depending on destination) are an easy way to get around the island at any hour of the day. Wait for a cab at Taxi Sq., by the waterfront, or by the Fabrika bus station. Allow plenty of time, as there aren’t usually enough taxis to meet demand.
By Water Taxi
Water Taxis run in a loop from Ornas Beach and scallop around the beaches on the southern side of the island, including Super Paradise, Agrari, Ellia, Paranga, and Platy Gialos. At Ornas, tickets can be purchased from the shack on the back of the sand in the middle of the beach or on the boat. Make sure to specify to the person steering where you would like to get off, and ask about the return schedule. Signs are unclear and faded, and the boats do not always run on whatever schedule does exist, so don’t use water taxis if you are pressed for time.
By ATV or Motorbike
ATV ( €15 per 24hr.) and motorbikes ( €10 per 24hr.) can be rented near the bus stops or at some hotels.
delos
22890
Delos’s history is rich—literally. On virtually every cultural and historical level, this island has been the stage for a notable occurrence. Let’s start at the beginning, with the island’s name. Delos translates to “visible.” According to Greek mythology, this dollop of land just 40min. from Mykonos by ferry was brought to the surface from Poseidon’s underwater kingdom. The god took pity on Leto, Zeus’ most recent mortal crush, when she was ready to give birth to Zeus’ godly children but could not find land on which to bear them. Supposedly Hera, the archetypal jealous wife, had forbidden all lands from hosting the roaming pregnant beauty. So who else but Zeus’ brother to come to Leto’s rescue? Bros before hos. Thus, the island, “seen,” is the mythical birthplace of Apollo and Artemis, the God of the Sun and Goddess of the Moon, respectively. From 900 BCE to 100 CE the island was the site for cult worship of the two gods, as well as Dionysus.
In commerce, the island was also central. The Delian League—founded in 478 BCE and membered by 173 Greek city-states (Sparta not among them)—was based here, meaning that for about 400 years Delos was the closest thing to NATO or the World Bank until, well, NATO and the World Bank. Politically, the Delian League also had an agenda. Its member states paid a tribute to the league, funds which they could reclaim at any point in time, so long as the money was dedicated to defeating the Persians. Artistically, the island was home to marvelous, painstakingly thorough mosaics, frescoes, and architectural feats that, though now mostly washed away, can be glimpsed in the few remaining patches that have made it through the millenia. In terms of human rights, Delos’ record is less stellar; the island was a former port city and had a busy slave trade. Delos had residents of Greek, Egypt, and other civilizations living side by side, and in that sense it was among the first cosmopolitan cities.
SIGHTS
The ruins on Delos are so phenomenal that the island is now a World Heritage Site and has been for over two decades. Only one-fifth of the island is excavated, but that small fraction has unearthed an archaeological gold mine. Old mansions, a unique street design, and many temples devoted to the Greek gods still remain in some form on the multicultural island. Walk around; there will be no shortage of ancient marble on which to focus your camera.
HIKE UP THE HILL
HIKE
Once you reach the top of this winding, heavy-breath-inducing path, you will never want to go down—not just because it’s too steep, but because the view from the top is magical. Nearby islands are hazy in the distance, and the whole of excavated Delos is at your
feet. When you are splayed on the smooth rocks at the peak of the hike, the sun god Apollo kissing you with abundant affection, the crowds and cacophonous Top-40 noise of Mykonos Town feel a lot more than a ferry ride away.
Facing the museum, go right and follow the path. Roughly 15min. to the top. The terrain is steep in parts and the stones are not cemented together and sometimes wiggle underfoot. Be wary of where you step. Stable shoes advised. Bring water.
THE THEATER QUARTER
RUIN
Built in the 3rd century BCE with a seating capacity of over 5000 people, this theater is where the magnitude of ancient Delos is most tangible. The giant arch of seats bears down on the stage, which initially was home to only one actor but soon grew to a cast of three. In annual free performances funded by wealthy sponsors, ancient Delians would watch three tragedies, two comedies, and one satire in one rousing weekend of theater.
#95 on the free map by the ticket booth. Wind your way through the ancient homes inland from the agora.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 103