The monument is at the top of the hill, near the Citadella. Only wheelchair-accessible if you take bus #27 from Moricz Zsigmond.
HOTEL GELLÉRT AND GELLÉRT BATHS
Szent Gellért tér 1
BATH
01 466 61 66 www.spasbudapest.com
At the foot of Gellért Hill and directly facing the green Szabadság Bridge, the world-famous hotel was built in the Vienna Secession style and incorporates gorgeous elements of the then-emerging Art Nouveau. While the hotel itself is probably beyond most student budgets, the equally famous adjoining baths are certainly not. Probably the most popular of the Buda baths for tourists, the Gellért Baths feature a richly tiled interior with statues and columns surrounding the main bath. Outside, an enormous sitting bath is popular with visitors of all ages.
Tram #49: Szent Gellért tér. Bathing-suit and towel rental available. Check www.danubiushotels.com for hotel details. Admission with locker 3500Ft. Open M-F 6am-7pm, Sa 6am-10pm, Su 6am-8pm. Last entry 1hr. before close.
THE CITADELLA
Citadella Sétány 1
VIEW
01 279 19 63 www.citadella.hu
This structure was originally built by the gloating Hapsburgs after the failed 1848 revolution to remind Hungarians who was in charge. The angled walls occupy most of the hill’s plateau and must have provided the imperial soldiers garrisoned there with great views of the city that resented them. During WWII, the interior was converted into a massive, three-level air-raid shelter, which served as one of the strong points for the German and Hungarian forces during the bloody Siege of Budapest. Today, the Citadella is home to a luxury hotel and expensive restaurant. The former air-raid shelter contains an overpriced museum filled with wax figures depicting scenes from the war, ranging from not very to quite interesting. During the summer, the surrounding area is swamped with food vendors and souvenir stands. If you can, go at night to take in the view in relative peace.
The citadella is at the top of the hill, near the Liberty Monument. 1200Ft. Museum open daily May-Sept 9am-8pm, Oct-Apr 9am-5pm.
Óbuda
PÁL-VÖLGYI AND MÁTYÁS CAVES
CAVES
01 325 95 05 www.caving.hu
Budapest is famous for its thermal baths, but few people know that the heated water that eats up entire afternoons has also spent hundreds of thousands of years eating through the limestone hills beneath the city. The result: over 100km of caves directly below many of Budapest’s residential areas. The second longest of Hungary’s cave systems, the Pál-völgyi and Mátyás Caves offer the unskilled numerous spelunking opportunities. The no-climbing walking tours are informative and interesting without asking you to do anything more stressful than climb a short ladder. These walks descend 30m below the surface, where you’ll see many dripstones and even the occasional 40-million-year-old fossil. Many people bring a sweater, though during the hot summer nothing feels better than descending into the caves, which keep cool at 50°F all year long. Those looking for something a little more challenging should consider taking on The Sandwich of Death.
Bus #86: Kolosy tér. From the stop, backtrack up the street and take the 1st right to reach the bus station. From there, catch bus #65 to get to the caves. Bring warm clothing. English tours available; call ahead for times. 1050Ft, students 785Ft. Open Tu-Sa 10am-4pm. Tours every hr.
AQUINCUM RUINS
Szentendrei út 135
RUINS
01 250 16 50 www.aquincum.hu
Long before the mighty Magyars settled the Carpathian basin, the Roman Empire had a thriving settlement of 40,000 inhabitants on this spot. The ruins of this ancient settlement can be seen all over northern Buda. The Military Amphitheater at the corner of Lajos utca and Pacsirtamező utca in Óbuda is especially awesome. The largest collection of ruins can be found at the Aquincumi Múzeum, just north of Budapest proper. The museum includes thousands of artifacts from the town like pottery, bricks, and jewelry. Upstairs, an exhibit recreates parts of the proconsul’s palace as well as the famed Aquincum organ. Outside, you can explore more than an acre of ruins, including the workshops of various craft guilds. When in the former Roman Empire, do as the former Romans did and spend an afternoon hanging around the former thermal baths.
From Batthyány tér, take the HÉV 7 stops to Aquincum, then get off and backtrack about 0.5km; the ruins and museum are on your left. 1300Ft, students 500Ft. Museum open Apr 16-30 Tu-Sa 10am-5pm, May-Sept daily 10am-6pm, Oct Tu-Sa 10am-5pm. Park open Apr 16-Oct 9am-dusk.
Outer Buda
MEMENTO PARK (SZOBORPARK)
On the corner of Balatoni út and Szabadkai utca.
MONUMENT
www.mementopark.hu
While in the rest of the former Soviet republics people were happily dismantling and demolishing the symbols of their hated regimes, the monument-loving people of Budapest decided it might be worthwhile to keep theirs around, even if they didn’t want them anywhere near the city itself. Forty of these statues now reside a bus ride away in Memento Park (25min.) as a testament to a bygone political and artistic period. At the gates to the park you can see an authentic replica of the infamous Stalin statue that was torn down so thoroughly during the 1956 revolution that only the dictator’s boots remained; the remains of the statue became a symbol of the revolution. Other notable statues include a striking metallic mass of bayonet-wielding soldiers charging past a podium as well as the deranged-looking Soviet soldier that used to stand at the base of the Liberty Monument, clutching his Soviet flag and machine gun. An indoor exhibition shows unnerving clips from old secret police training videos. If you pay attention, you may even learn a thing or two about how to hide secret messages in crushed soda cans.
Express bus #7: Etele tér. From the stop, take the yellow Volán bus from terminal #7 bound for Diosd-Érd and get off at Memento Park. You’ll need to buy a separate ticket from the Volánbusz ticket office. There is also a white direct bus from Deák tér (1, 2, or 3) Jan-June and Sept-Dec daily 11am, July-Aug daily 11am, 3pm for 3950Ft, students 2450Ft; includes price of admission and return ticket. 1500Ft, students 1000Ft. Open daily 10am-dusk.
Margit-Sziget
RUINS
Margit Sziget
RUINS
Though it may be hard to imagine now, there was once a time when the island was used for something besides outdoor drinking and sunbathing. For several centuries, Margaret Island was the place to be cloistered in Budapest. The Franciscans were the first on the scene, building their priory in the 13th century only to have it destroyed under the Ottomans in the 16th century. King Béla IV built a convent during the height of the Mongol invasion in the 13th century. At that time, he vowed to send his daughter, Margaret, to the convent if he ever had the chance to rebuild the country after the Mongol assault, though nobody seemed to have consulted Margaret on this arrangement. When the Mongols were finally beaten back, the king made good on his vow and sent his 11-year-old daughter to become a nun. While taking orders may not have done much for Margaret’s social life, at least it guaranteed her a kind of immortality when the island was renamed after her death. Today, you can still see the ruins of both structures. Princess Margaret is buried at the site of the old nave.
Take the main road from the Margit Bridge entrance. You’ll pass the Franciscan priory 1st, on your left, between the Hajós Alfréd Swimming Pool and the Palatinus Baths. The convent is farther along, on your right near the water tower.
ZENÉLŐ SZÖKŐKÚT (MUSIC FOUNTAIN)
Margit Sziget
FOUNTAIN
Built in 1936, the Musical Fountain consists of multiple waterjets choreographed to music from nearby speakers. Even if you can’t make out the music, the sight of the jets pulsing and changing is mesmerizing. A favorite of local parkgoers, the Musical Fountain attracts visitors who love to set up picnics and hookahs in the shaded area nearby. At night, colorful lights add a whole new dimension to the show. While the sight of the enormous central jet is certainly impressive, perh
aps someone should tell UNESCO that the island’s beloved musical fountain is actually just a copy of an older fountain built by a Transylvanian handyman.
From the Margit Bridge entrance, take the main road north; the fountain is just past the statue.
sandwich of death
The descent into the Mátyás Caves is met by overwhelming darkness and absolute silence. What brings travelers into the silent depths is the opportunity to partake in caving, the unforgettable experience of snaking through the underground labyrinthine caves. Yet what draws visitors to these particular caves is the “Sandwich of Death,” the finale of the journey. Equipped with only a helmet and flashlight, spelunkers venture through the path that descends 220m to sea level and back up again, inching past heart-stopping 40m drops and squeezing through crevices barely large enough to fit your helmet. The climactic sandwich isn’t quite as dangerous as it sounds—it’s a 12m stomach-crawl through two slabs of limestone.
Outside Budapest
VISEGRÁD
Visegrád is a tiny town in Pest County home to the summer palace of King Matthias Corvinus of Hungary. Its main attraction is the two-part 13th century castle nearby. The center of the lower castle area is adorned by the giant Solomon Tower that was once a royal residence and now houses the King Matthias Museum of Visegrád. A trip to Visegrád would not be complete without a visit to the Royal Palace that was originally built in the early 14th century and later completely reconstructed by King Matthias Corvinus in the 15th century. Considering it was a vacation spot of one of the most powerful leaders in Hungary’s history, the building is quite unassuming and looks more like a Mediterranean villa than a royal palace. Only limited rooms in the building’s interior are open to the public, but they’re worth the visit to marvel at the king’s jewels. Without a doubt the most fun to be had in the area is the summer bob-sledding course on Mogyoró Hill. Check the tourist office for information.
Buses depart from Árpád híd bus station in Budapest every 30min. No trains go to Visegrád. The bus to the castle departs from the ferry boat pier (Nagymaros) at 9:26am, 12:26, and 3:26pm. The last bus from the castle back to the pier is at 4pm. Check with Budapest Tour Inform before you leave for maps and information, as there is no tourist office in Visegrád.
VÁC
The Vác cathedral is the main attraction of this tiny town. Built in the late 18th century and modeled after St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome, the gorgeously restored columns invite visitors to meditate in holy peace. The Stone Gate built in 1764 for Empress Maria Theresa’s visit to the town looks like Paris’ Arc de Triomphe. Perhaps most intriguing, and also most overlooked, are the Statue of the Holy Trinity columns.
Buses depart from Árpád híd station in Budapest ever y half-hour. The train departs from Nyugati toward Szob via Vác every 30min. The train station is at the northern end of Széchényi utca adjacent to the bus station. Follow Széchényi utca toward the river for 0.5km which will lead you toward the main square at Március 15 tér. Prices vary depending on time of year.
FOOD
The Belváros
CENTRAL KÁVÉHÁZ
V, Károlyi Mihály utca 9.
CAFE
01 266 2110 www.centralkavehaz.hu
Doors and windows bust open to reveal local clientele, from cramming students to old men sucking on cigars to women gabbing about the latest he-said she-said at this larger-than-life coffee and sandwich shop. Don’t let the marble tables and leather couches fool you; if you linger for long enough the laid-back waiters will find you and you’ll begin to groove with the chill atmosphere.
M2: Ferenciek Tere. From the Metro take Károly Mihály east. Nosh 1800-2650Ft. Entrees 2300-3900Ft. Mixed drinks 500-1100Ft. Open daily 7am-midnight.
CAFE ALIBI
V, Egyetem Tér 4
CAFE
01 317 4209 cafealibi.hu
An old-fashioned cash register and your grandmother’s fine china will greet you at this little coffee shop in the center of student-city. Don’t let the white tablecloths scare you--while the price is up there, you’re unlikely to find a more tasteful cafe in this neighborhood away from all those foreign loudmouths.
M3: Kálvin Tér. From the Metro take Kecskeméti utca west and turn left on Egyetem tér. Salads 900-1600Ft. Coffee from 320Ft. Open M-F 8am-2am, Sa 9am-1am.
KICSIMAMA KONYHÁJA
Lónyay u. 7.
HUNGARIAN, FAST FOOD
01 216 4178
A get-in-get-out kind of place perfect for backpackers on the run. Delectable Hungarian quick-eats for a tight budget. Not your grandma’s kitchen, nor is it a five-star resto, but you get the idea. Try anything breaded or soaked in sauce.
M3: Kálvin Tér. Head towards the river and make a left on Lónyay.ß. Breaded cauliflower 580ft. Spinach ricotta pasta 280ft. Specials from 780ft. Open M-F 10am-6pm, Sa 10am-3pm.
KÁRPÁTIA
V, Ferenciek Tere 7-8
HUNGARIAN
01 317 3596 www.karpatia.hu
The up-and-coming executive chef doles out revamped Hungarian cuisine, mixing ancient spices and recipes with Mediterranean, Asian, and Latin flavors. An immaculate Baroque interior with red, gold, and green patterns cover a vaulted ceiling at one of the city’s oldest restaurants. Dishes like venison filet with balsamic strawberries and maize polenta with black truffles (7050Ft) will blow your taste buds away. Your wallet will be crushed by debris from the explosion, so save it for a last-night-in-town-splurge.
M3: Ferenciek Tere. Reservations recommended. Appetizers 1900-3100Ft. Entrees 3300-7500Ft. Open daily 11am-11pm.
1000 TEA
Váci utca 65
TEA HOUSE
01 337 8217 www.1000tea.hu
Take your shoes off and sip tea in one of the many arched alcoves of this Japanese-style tea house, located in a tranquil courtyard away from the buzz of Váci. With an impressive menu and worldly staff, you might receive a bit of knowledge along with your tea condiments. Couples can relish the tea samplers (from 1400ft). Get your Zen on, you’re in tea land now.
M3: Kálvin Tér. From the Metro take Vámház toward the river and turn right on Váci utca. Teas 420-1100Ft. Open M-Sa noon-11pm, Su 1-11pm.
Lipótváros
SZERÁJ
V, Szent István krt.
TURKISH, FAST FOOD
Turkish fast food with a Hungarian touch. Perfect for a quick, delicious meal without the fuss of waiters and tips. If you’ve got more time on your hands, sit outside in the summer on the patio overlooking bustling Szent István krt or at one of the tables inside illuminated by massive windows. You can even smoke inside in the upstairs balconies. Try the Hungarian twists on Mediterranean classics, like the kebab sandwich with red cabbage (650Ft).
M3: Nyugati. Head down Szent István towards the river, the restaurant is on your left. Entrees from 400Ft. Desserts from 300Ft.
TRÓFEA GRILL ÉTTEREM
XIII, Visegrádi utca 50A
GOURMET, BUFFET
01 270 0366 www.trofeagrill.com
Gourmet meal and all-you-can-eat buffet don’t usually hold hands on the playground, but somehow this place pulls it off. The large wooden dining area is lined with the skulls of the various species you’ll be enjoying. An over 100-dish menu will leave you either unsurpassably satiated or slobbering indecisively. Stand-up and occasional folk dancing during the summer make for a somewhat bizarre (but entertaining) dining experience.
M3: Nyugati. From the Metro take Szent István krt toward the river and turn right on Visegrádi. Wi-Fi included. Buffet M-F lunch 3400Ft; M-Th dinner 3800Ft; F dinner and all day Sa-Su 4600Ft. Open M-F noon-midnight, Sa 11:30am-midnight, Su 11:20am-8:30pm.
Erzsébetváros
CASTRO BISZTRÓ
1075 Madách tér 3.
BISTRO
01 215 01 84 www.castrobistro.hu
An easy cafe where you can sit alone and read or chat with friends over an espresso. An eclectic decor boasts Buena Vista Social Club posters and a handsome bar
serves a sizzling Illy roast and a selection of beer and wine. Windows bring in ample light and the summertime opens a whole new world and vibe with the outdoor terrace. Clientele ranges from artsy cafe regulars to the occasional tourist.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 112