Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide
Page 113
M1, M2, or M3: Deák Ferenc tér. From the Metro head north on Király utca, right on Rumbach Sebestyén utca and right on Madách. Espresso 200Ft. Sandwiches from 700Ft. Open M-Th 10am-midnight, F 10am-1am, Sa noon-1am, Su 2pm-midnight.
HUMMUS BÁR
Kertész utca 39
ISRAELI
01 321 74 77 www.hummusbar.hu
An explosion of olive oil, lemon zest, and chickpeas makes you feel like you’re trotting the ancient limestone streets of Jerusalem. A young and modern decor (that’s clientele included) rendez-vous with old recipes to birth some of the city’s most delectable Jewish fare. Check out the “hummusology” posters for proper hummus-and-pita-eating technique. Don’t leave without trying the Laffa, a giant flat bread stuffed with meat (or veggies), spices, and hummus.
M1: Oktogon. Head east on Erzsébet krt, right on Király and left on Kertész. Falafel from 800Ft. Entrees 400-1800Ft. Open daily noon-11pm.
Terézváros
MENZA
Liszt Ferenc tér 2
HUNGARIAN
01 413 14 82 www.menza.co.hu
Makes you feel like you’re one of the locals eating the cuisine of champions. Don’t be deterred by the large crowds—this menza (canteen) is packed for a reason. Large portions of real Hungarian lunch food in an atmosphere that can’t be any more mundane (in the best sense). Go for the daily menu (890Ft) and you’ll get a real bang for your buck, with meals like fried turkey breast and a rice-and-peas side.
M2: Oktogon. From the Metro, take Andrássy út west and then turn left onto Liszt Ferenc tér; the restaurant is at the corner with Paulay Ede utca. Salads 1390-1690Ft. Pasta 1290-1990Ft. Entrees 1890-3990Ft. Open daily 10am-1am.
FŐZELÉK FALO
Nagymező utca 18
HUNGARIAN
You can’t go to Hungary and not try főzelék—a truly Hungarian everyman dish composed of vegetables and spices cooked into a thick soup. This tiny place boasts every kind of főzelék and makes you feel like you’ve dropped in at grand-ma’s. Be sure to try the squash (380Ft); those looking to bypass the nostalgia for something a little more hearty should try the weiner schnitzel (350Ft).
M1: Oktogon. Head south from the Metro on Andrássy and right on Nagymező. Főzelék 380Ft. Entrees 390-690Ft. M-F 10am-9:30pm. Sa noon-8pm.
KAJA.HU
Nagymező utca 41
HUNGARIAN
01 374 04 68 www.kaja.hu
One of the cheapest deals in the city. A simple canteen-style eatery serving traditional and delicious Hungarian fast food in huge portions to a local student and working crowd. Order the fried camembert with blueberry sauce (950ft) and you’ll fit right in. A great place for lunch, but also for a quick starter drink and meal before a night out.
M1: Oktogon. Head south from the Metro on Andrássy and right on Nagymező. Delivery available. Menus 640Ft. Salads 890Ft. Entrees from 990Ft. Open daily 10am-midnight.
ZSÁKBAMACSKA
Lovag utca 3
HUNGARIAN
01 354 18 10 zsakbamacska.hu
Finally some decent Hungarian sit-down food without the inauthentic gypsy music drilling in the background. A simple cellar setting invites guests almost as warmly as the staff does. Hit some Hungarian fish soup (1250Ft) for a spicy time and couple it with crispy duck topped with sour cherry sauce (2750Ft). The prices are just as spicy as the food, but you can save by getting a hearty soup or a small meat dish with a salad.
M3: Arany János utca. From the Metro, take Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út north, then make a sharp right onto Nagymező utca, and then turn left onto Lovag utca. Appetizers 1350-2350Ft. Soups 750-1150Ft. Salads 550-950Ft. Entrees 1950-4550Ft. Vegetarian entrees 1550-2150Ft. Open M-F 5pm-midnight, Sa-Su noon-midnight.
CSIRKE CSIBÉSZ
Nagymező utca 35
FAST FOOD
01 269 39 62
The haunt for locals after a night of drinking. Open until the wee hours, this place serves up sizzling whole chickens for you to devour (with your hands, if you wish). Stand at the counters or sit in a high stool and be amazed at how great the fare tastes—even during the day in a sober state of being.
M1: Oktogon. Head south from the Metro on Andrássy and right on Nagymező. Sandwiches and entrees from 290Ft. M-F 7am-6pm and W-Sa 7:30pm-5am.
CACTUS JUICE
Jókai Tér 5
HUNGARIAN, AMERICAN
01 302 21 16 www.cactusjuice.hu
As you pull up to this little joint you might be thinking, why in the great heavens did you send me to some Western pub in the middle of Budapest!? Don’t you worry! Just head on downstairs and join the hoards of chilled-out local 20-to-30-somethings enjoying cheap beer and feasting on a Hungarian-American fare that’s truly unlike any other restaurant in the city. If you’re scrimping, go for the goulash (860ft). If you’re in the mood to dole out a little more loot, take a stab at the tenderloin steak and lecsó, Hungarian tomato and pepper sauté (2990Ft).
M1: Oktogon. Head south on Andrássy and turn right on Jókai. Often hosts DJs. Check online for listings. Salads from 1490Ft. Entrees from 1590Ft. Open M-Th noon-2am, F-Sa Noon-4am, Su 4pm-2am.
Józsefváros
SIRIUS KLUB
Bródy Sándor utca 13.
TEA HOUSE
01 266 17 08
A giant selection of teas served through a small window connected to the main seating area, Tibetan prayer flags, and floor cushions invite you to kick off your walking shoes and mellow out. If you’re starved you might head to a restaurant, but for a quick nosh try their chocolate cookies.
M3: Kálin tér. From the station, head north on Múzeum krt and turn right on Bródy Sándor. Tea from 540Ft. Cookies 250Ft. Open daily noon-10pm.
DARSHAN UDVAR
Krúdy Gyula utca 7.
INTERNATIONAL
01 266 5541 www.darshan.hu
Housed in a mosaic-tiled building with a magnificent inner courtyard, this www.letsgo.com 6 restaurant boasts a menu as eclectic as its decor. From Buddha statues to Hungarian-style tablecloths, this place combines world cuisine with Hungarian spice. Relax in the courtyard over a meal, or stay for a beer and live music in the later hours.
M3: Ferenc körút. From the station, head north on József krt and turn left on Krúdy Gyula. Soups from 690Ft. Entrees 990-2350Ft. Dessert 590-720Ft. Open daily 11am-midnight.
Ferencváros
PINK CADILLAC PIZZERIA
Ráday utca 22
ITALIAN
01 216 14 12 www.pinkcadillac.hu
Pink Cadillac is a stylish pizza joint that offers some of the best pies in the city. Its specialties include the Pirata, Dolce Vita, and the massive signature Pink Caddy (mushroom, ham, salami, olives; 2860Ft) after which you may need a forklift to exit the building. The decor includes some vintage advertisements as well as the front of the eponymous pink Cadillac, sticking out of the wall with headlights on.
M3: Kálvin tér. From the station, take Kálvin tér toward the river and turn left on Ráday. Pizza 750-2860Ft. Pasta 1140-1900Ft. Open daily 11am-1am.
PASTA NEGRA
Kálvin tér 8
TAPAS
01 215 56 16 www.patanegra.hu
This wonderful tapas joint in the middle of Kálvin tér will make you happy you chose Budapest over Madrid for a summer vacation. Tapas range from the banal Catalan bread (350Ft) to the exotic crispy fried baby squid (950Ft). Don’t let the big scary bull standing outside frighten you—the patio is where it’s at if you want a true fusion of Spanish slow-cooking in the bustle and noise of Hungary’s capital.
M3: Kálvin tér. From the station, walk across the street. White wine from 690Ft. Red wine from 750Ft. Entrees 840-1300Ft. Tapas 350-1950Ft. Open M-W 11am-midnight, Th-F 11am-1am, Sa noon-1am, Su noon-midnight.
The Városliget
ROBINSON RESTAURANT
Városligeti tó
HUNGARIAN
01 663 68 71
Certainly commands one of the more interesting locations in Budapest a
top an artificial pond in the middle of City Park. Serves a mix of Hungarian and international dishes. Grilled goose liver (2790Ft) is the house specialty.
M1: Hősök tere. From the station, walk through Heroes’ Sq. and then turn left; the restaurant is in the park across from the zoo. Soups 1200-1400Ft. Entrees 1900-5890Ft. Open daily noon-4pm, 6pm-midnight.
GUNDEL ÉTTEREM
Állatkerti út 2
CLASSY
01 603 24 80 www.gundel.hu
If you dare to enter, remember your best posh accent and pretentious gaze—this is the only area restaurant classy enough for both the Queen of England and Pope John Paul II to have graced it with their presence. Most of the menu is well outside a backpacker’s budget, and the style probably diverges as well. The best deal is the three course lunch menu (3800Ft), which comes with a glass of house wine.
M1: Hősök tere. From the station, walk through Heroes’ Square and then turn left; the restaurant is right next to the zoo. Men must be in blazers or sport jackets. Reservations not required, but recommended. Sandwiches 1990-2190Ft. Salads 3190-3790Ft. Entrees 3980-6200Ft. Open daily noon-4pm and 6:30-midnight.
BARAKA
Andrássy út 111
INTERNATIONAL
01 483 13 55
Located on the ground floor of a former historic hotel, Baraka is one of Budapest’s most celebrated restaurants. The exterior overlooks the beautiful boulevard and Heroes’ Square, while the interior has the feel of a sleek New York lounge. Start off with the Thai-marinated salmon tataki in coconut crust (1800Ft). The five-spice duck breast (4900Ft) is one of the chef’s specialties.
M1: Bajza utca. Walk toward Heroes’ Sq.; the restaurant is on the right. Reservations recommended. Appetizers 1500-1900Ft. Entrees 2400-6200Ft. Open M-Sa noon-3pm and 6-11pm, Su noon-3pm.
Várhegy, Central Buda, and the Vizivaros
DAUBNER CUKRÁSZDA
Szépvölgyi út 50
CAFE
01 335 22 53 www.daubnercukraszda.hu
While locals rave about the cakes and ice cream, the place is all too easy for tourists to miss due to its off-the-beaten-path location. A sweet place to get something to go and eat in the privacy of your hostel bed; or stay a while and couple a chocolate cake (380Ft) with some nutty coffee (300Ft). While the glass cases are stocked with more things than you could ever work off at the gym, don’t stand and slobber too long—the line of people out the door will slip into a premature sugar coma.
Tram 17: Kolosy tér. From the tram stop, walk a few blocks up Szépvölgyi út; the cafe will be on your left. Sweets from 300Ft. Coffee from 300Ft. Open daily 9am-7pm.
ARANYSZARVAS BISZTRÓ
Szarvas tér 1
HUNGARIAN
01 375 64 51 www.aranyszarvas.hu
An enormous gilt deer head greets guests at this fancy coffeehouse where many of the 18th century’s most renowned literary luminaries gathered to reinvigorate the Hungarian language and invent modern Serbian. For decades, this revered Buda landmark was the only restaurant in Budapest that served game. Nearly 40 years later, venison, boar, and pheasant are still the only game in town. Don’t be petrified after a cursory glance at the menu—it is possible to keep the price down if you go for a fairly filling starter like smoked pork joint salad with horseradish (1450Ft) or a schmancy after-dinner dessert like baked yogurt with raspberry ice cream (990Ft).
Trams 18 or 19: Döbrentei tér. From the tram stop, take Döbrentei tér away from the river, turn right onto Attila út, and then veer left; the restaurant is on the corner. Reservations recom mended. Appetizers 1200-1800Ft. Entrees 1600-2900Ft. Desserts 990-1400Ft. Open daily noon-11pm.
NAGYI PALACSINTÁZÓJA
Hattyú utca 16
FRENCH
01 212 48 66
Literally “your grandmama’s creperie,” this tiny joint fries up thin pancakes Hungarian-style, stuffing them with delicious fatteners like sweet cocoa powder, rice pudding, and sour-cherry sauce. It’s a perfect early-morning place to soak up all that booze from a raunchy night and watch the sun rise over Parliament.
M2: Moszkva tér. From the station, walk toward the river; at the big intersection, veer right on Hattyú utca. Another location is at Batthyány tér 5. Sweet crepes 130-640Ft. Savory crepes 240-620Ft. Open 24hr.
Óbuda
EMIL CUKRÁSZDA
Bécsi út 314
CAFE
01 240 75 35 www.emilcukraszda.hu
While it may seem like a random shop thrown in between some other odd shops on a main road leading out of the city, beware this type of dismissive thinking! Don’t miss out on one of the best confectionaries in the land, stocked with finger- (and if it drops on the ground, ground-) licking good treats. Limited seating area (i.e., a bench next to the entrance) means it’s an in-and-out sort of ordeal, but the courageous traveler will not be disappointed once he’s taken his first bite of triple chocolate cake with raspberry filling and buttercream accents.
Bus #260: ATI. Keep walking a bit in the direction of the bus and cross the road. Sweets from 250Ft. Coffee from 210Ft. Open daily 10am-6pm.
CSÜLÖK CSÁRDA
Szentendrei út 89 - 95
HUNGARIAN
01 240 02 54 www.emilcukraszda.hu
Csülök Csárda is for the real meat lover. A sea of wooden tables greets ravenous guests ready to mangle their prey, and traditional Hungarian cuisine served in an interesting decor makes you wonder where these Hungarians get their decorators. The food is delicious, despite its surroundings’ lack of aesthetic beauty, and the giant portions come at an unbeatable price.
HÉV: Köles Street. From the stop, backtrack on Szentendrei út 1 block. Soups 500-620Ft. Entrees 1100-2500Ft. Open M-F 10am-10pm, Sa-Su 11am-11pm.
Margit-Sziget
HOLDUDVAR
Margit Sziget
HUNGARIAN, MEDITERRANEAN
01 236 0155 www.holdudvar.net
Orange lanterns and hipster-type furniture welcome the hungry traveler. If it’s not enough that this place turns into one of the coolest open-air venues come nightfall with film screenings, live music, and dancing ‘til dawn, it also serves up some of the most delicious fare in the middle of the river. The food is Hungarian with a Mediterranean tinge. Try the Mediterranean tomato soup with mozzarella (850Ft) and you’ll leave happy and satisfied. Turns into a fun bar come nightfall.
From the Margit Bridge entrance, take the main road; the garden will be on your right, across from the Hajós Alfréd Swimming Pool. Film screenings in the open-air cinema Su 9pm. Appetizers 1700-2500Ft. Pasta 1700-2900Ft. Entrees 1500-4500Ft. Open daily in summer 11am-5am.
CHAMPS SPORTS PUB
Margit Sziget
PUB
01 413 1655 www.champs.hu
An expansive wooden deck invites guests to sip beer or relax and chat with friends on beanbags. More than 30 plasma TVs broadcast the latest game and the kitchen serves up wholesome portions of pizza, Mexican food, and other delicious odds and ends.
Tram #1: Jászai Mari tér, walk across the bridge to the island. The pub is across the way from Holdudvar. Pizza 900-1500Ft. Quesadillas 1000Ft. Open in summer daily 11am-2am.
NIGHTLIFE
The Belváros
KATAPULT
V, Dohány u. 1
PUB
01 266 7226
Local 20-somethings squeeze into this tiny but lively pub that functions as a cafe by day. Red walls and trippy lamps bring a range of evenings, from political debates to head-banging and grinding; the space leaves it up to the clientele to decide its vibe for the night. Try to eat beforehand as the kitchen closes in the afternoon.
M2: Astoria. Walk west up Károly krt from the Metro and backtrack to the right onto Dohány. Beer from 500Ft. Open daily 9am-2am.
GÖDÖR KLUB
V, Erzsébet Tér
CLUB
01 201 3868 www.godorklub.hu
The conspicuously bare concrete walls of the club, situated in the former foundation of what wa
s supposed to be the new National Concert Hall, might seem unfinished, but on weekends you can hardly move in the crowded concert arena where rock, jazz, world, techno, and folk deafen patrons. If you arrive early enough you might snag a table on the long staircase or a seat on one of the benches along the retaining walls. For a more relaxing time head there during the week for Pilates.
M1-3: Deák Tér. Beer from 350Ft. Shots 200-1000Ft. Open M-Th 10am-2am, F-Sa 10am-4am, Su 10am-2am.