HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS
There’s nothing Hungarians take more seriously than celebrating, especially when their city is the star of the party. Consequently, Hungary’s calendar is filled with festivals featuring everything from wine tasting to gladiator fights.
festivals
• INTERNATIONAL BOOK FESTIVAL (APRIL 14-17). The name says it all.
• FLORALIA FESTIVAL (MAY 22-23). Party like it’s 50CE! Held at the Aquincum Museum in Óbuda (Old Buda, district 3), this event revives an ancient Roman tradition, including theater, flower exhibitions, and even gladiator fights (the family-friendly kind).
• NATIONAL GALLOP (JUNE 2-6). Heroes’ Square, Andrássy Ut. If you don’t mind being inundated with Hungarian national pride, this exhibition of traditional equestrian skills is worth the trek.
• SUMMER ON THE CHAIN BRIDGE (JULY 3-AUGUST 15). This Budapest institution takes over the famous Chain Bridge with various performances and programs against the cerulean backdrop of the Danube.
• SZIGET ROCK MUSIC FESTIVAL (AUGUST 11-16). College students and motorcycle dudes descend on the city for this four-day rock-out, which has attracted crowds of over 300,000.
• FESTIVAL OF FOLK ARTS (AUGUST 20-22). Explore Buda’s castle district to hear traditional Hungarian folklore and see handicraft demonstrations. The festival kicks off with celebrations for St. Stephen’s Day on August 20 that include an artisans’ parade and the “blessing of the bread” in front of St. Matthias’ church.
• JEWISH SUMMER FESTIVAL (AUGUST 26-SEPTEMBER 6). Part celebration and part education, this festival is a full introduction to Hungarian Jewish culture, centered on (where else?) the Dohány Street Synagogue.
• WINE FESTIVAL (FIRST WEEK IN SEPTEMBER). Beginning with the harvest parade, this week-long toast to Hungarian vinters includes traditional costumes, dance, handicrafts, and of course lots of refreshments. Every year’s a good year.
IRELAND
dublin
ORIENTATION
ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTS
FOOD
NIGHTLIFE
ARTS AND CULTURE
SHOPPING
ESSENTIALS
essentials
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
MONEY
SAFETY AND HEALTH
ireland 101
FOOD AND DRINK
There’s a neat little still at the foot of the hill
Where the smoke curls up to the sky
By a whiff of the smell you can plainly tell
That there’s poitín boys close by.
For it fills the air with a perfume rare
And betwixt both me and you
As home we roll, we can drink a bowl
Or a bucketful of mountain dew.
Now learned men as use the pen
Have writ’ the praises high
Of the sweet poitín from Ireland green
That’s made from wheat and rye
Away with your pills, it’ll cure all ills
Be ye pagan, Christian, or Jew
So take off your coat and grease your throat
With a bucket of the mountain dew.
greatest hits
• SICK FLICKS. Hit up the DVD collection at the Irish Film Institute ( IRISH FILM INSTITUTE), then catch a movie or two.
• REJOYCE. At the James Joyce Centre (JAMES JOYCE CENTRE), you can pay homage to one of the forefathers of literary Modernism.
• SHAMROCK AND ROLL. Whelan’s bar ( WHELAN’S) features predominantly alternative music, with not one but two stages.
• CLUBLIN. Head to Tripod ( TRIPOD) on Harcourt St. in Dublin for top-shelf live music.
For details on Ireland map, click here
student life
For students traveling to Dublin, a trip to the Guinness Storehouse is a no-brainer. Not only do you receive free samples during a how-to-drink-a-pint tutorial, but you also get a free pint at the top of the building. After ascending countless flights of stairs to reach the top of the building (which is, appropriately, pint-shaped), you’ll probably be ready throw one back anyway.
dublin
01
Pull up a pint of Guinness, sit down, and listen up. If you’re reading this, chances are you’ve recently arrived in Dublin, capital of the Republic of Ireland. Now that you’re here, however, what’s to be done? You can(‘t) very well sit around drinking Guinness the whole time you’re there. Fortunately, Dublin has something for every type of traveler. You can get wasted in Temple Bar with a motley crew of tourists, visit museums of everything from natural history to modern art, tour both the Guinness Storehouse and the Jameson Distillery, wile away the day poking your head into luxury clothing stores on Grafton Street, see live music and hit the impressive club scene around Camden, Wexford, and Harcourt Streets...we could continue all day long. The important thing to remember, though, is that Dublin is a fantastic city, with incredibly friendly inhabitants and a vibrancy that never seems to dim. See as much of it as you can—don’t constrain yourself to specific areas because you’re sure that things just couldn’t get any better. They can, and they will.
ORIENTATION
Dublin’s an easy city to get around, despite its size. The River Liffey draws a natural divide between the north and south sides of the city. The south side is known for its swankier, more ritzy areas, but the north is in no way short on gems. Dividing the two halves further are the different neighborhoods of Dublin. They range from the smallish, touristy area known as Temple Bar to the Grafton Street region to the South Georgian area, to the Viking and medieval section, including Christchurch Cathedral.
Large north-south dividing streets include the major artery on the north side, O’Connell Street (which has pedestrian Henry and Talbot Streets flanking it on either side) and Parliament Street, which provides another street-bridge-street thoroughfare farther inland.
Temple Bar and the Quays
It’s a bit silly to put an “Orientation” section in for Temple Bar because chances are if you’re in Temple Bar on a weekend, you’ll be so drunk that just making it to the end of the block will seem like a challenge. However, maybe the next morning (or afternoon), when you feel like walking around, take the main east-west street (Temple Bar Street, go figure) and diverge on any of the multiple lanes that run north-south from there. Heading north will take you up towards the River Liffey and the Quays while heading south will take you towards Dame St., Dublin Castle, and Trinity College.
The Quays (pronounced “Keys”) are even more straightforward to navigate. You’ll walk either on the north side (Ormond Quay and Bachelors Walk) or on the south side (Wellington and Merchant’s Quay). Head west to go inland towards the Guinness Storehouse and the Irish Rail Heuston Station, and east towards the ferry terminal and port.
Grafton Street
Ah Grafton Street, pedestrian highway of purchase pleasure. Taking off from the meeting of Suffolk and Nassau Streets, Grafton Street climbs on a slight incline (Let’s Go listings will refer to Grafton directions as being either “up” or “down”) up from Trinity College to St. Stephen’s Green. Small, pedestrian walkways branch off on either side of the street and lead to more shops and, more importantly, several excellent pubs.
For details on Central Dublin map, click here
Shopping on Grafton Street is not for the faint of heart—or of cash. Several top tier brands have outlets here, and Dublin’s not exactly a pennypincher’s paradise. However, there are some gems that won’t rob you of all the money you saved to get from Dublin to Prague. Check out the clothing listings for more detail there.
Even if you’re not buying, Grafton Street is a place you don’t want to miss. Window shopping here is made more enjoyable by the presence of a hodge-podge collection of street performers, who busk from dawn until (yes, we said it), dusk. Visit during the weekend to catch some great acts.
Gardiner Street and Customs House
Dublin City Council might as well just get it over
with and rename Gardiner Street “Hostel Row.” The place is littered with them. The street runs north to south parallel to O’Connell Street, and the easiest way to get there is to take the pedestrian North Earl Street from O’Connell (you’ll know you’re going in the right direction if you pass by the statue of James Joyce) and follow it as it turns into Talbot Street, which is only partially a pedestrian street. After Marlborough Street, the next cross street will be Gardiner. Turn left or right, you won’t escape the endless stream of signs offering you free Wi-Fi, full Irish breakfasts, and clean sheets. That last one’s a priority, so make sure to ask.
West of Temple Bar
When you’ve had enough of Temple Bar’s late night shenanigans and Grafton street’s lost it’s charm (read: when your credit card maxes out), head west. Like the cowboys of old, strike out for gold and adventure. Follow the northern side of the Liffey west and along the quays until you reach Bow Street on the Arran Quay. Turn right and walk a few blocks up—Eureka! Gold! Liquid gold Jameson whiskey at the distillery tour! Now that you’re rich, take Lord Edward Street west through nearly all of its changes—High Street, Cornmarket, and Thomas Streets, but it’s worth it to turn left on to Crane Street, enter the Guinness Storehouse, scale the stairs (or take the elevator if you find yourself exceptionally parched) to the Gravity Bar, where you may survey the long, dusty trail you blazed. Accept your pint of Guinness gladly, and feel the rich rewards that accompany the neighborhoods west of Temple Bar.
All banter aside, the area west of Temple Bar constitutes a huge portion of Dublin. Phoenix park sits on its inland edge, and a walk there from the city center would take up a significant portion of your day. However, there are several great things to see along the way. On the south side, Christchurch Cathedral, Dublinia, and the Irish Museum of Modern Art; on the left, in contrast, is the impressive architecture of the Four Courts and the National Museum of Decorative Arts and Military History, housed at Collins Barracks. Don’t be afeared o’ heading out into the sunset and making a day out of enjoying a part of Dublin that all your lazy friends will never get to.
North of O’Connell Street
Past the O’Connell Monument, with it’s bullet-riddled Victory, past the spire, that unequivocal proof that absurdly phallic sculpture is not dead, and finally, past the Parnell Monument, which, uh, well...so we can’t think of a joke for that one. It’s there anyway and you’re past it. Past all of these things you’ll find a neighborhood caught in a strange limbo—somewhere between being too close to the city center to really be residential, but not far enough away to escape all of downtown Dublin’s hustle-and-bustle. The result is an area with smaller and more local shops, and a much smaller percentage of tourists on the sidewalk. There are things to see up here—the Gardens of Remembrance are worth a look, and the Hugh Lane Gallery might just beat out the Irish Museum of Modern Art in terms of scale and presentation. And of course, for all the Joyceans in the audience, the James Joyce Centre is just up the road on North Great George’s Street.
Dorset Street and Drumcondra
Okay, things to know about Dorset Street. It’s dodgy. Like, not a place you want to take Fluffy for a walk after dark. Located far past the Parnell Monument and running east to west, it has a few hostels and restaurants, but there’s really nothing to see. If you’re thinking about trying to find a place away from the city proper, a much better place is Upper Drumcondra Road. The top of this street, near Griffith Avenue, is a very safe residential area, and the B and Bs in that part of town bring none of the hassle of the city center and have the added benefit of a real neighborhood feel.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Dublin is expensive, no two ways about it. Expect to pay at least €15 per night for a hostel dorm room, and often times more. Banking on the heavy party traffic, hostels, guesthouses and hotels in Dublin have all adopted a “week” and “weekend” rate, with the latter usually being around a one-quarter increase from the weekday price, so bear that in mind if you’re planning a weekend trip.
Temple Bar and the Quays
Temple Bar accommodations are usually filled with younger travelers—backpackers especially—who are interested in going out and having a good time. Note that any hostel in the Temple Bar area is bound to be noisy at night, and that you might have to deal with people coming into the dorm room at late hours.
BARNACLES TEMPLE BAR HOUSE
19 Temple Ln.
HOSTEL
01 671 6277 barnacles.ie
Have a great time and meet fellow travelers at this Temple Bar funhouse. The exterior looks small but hides several different dorms and private rooms, a large common room, and a kitchen, the latter of which serves a free light breakfast. The modern decorating will appeal to hipsters traveling through Dublin, while the friendly staff is always happy to help GLBT guests find gay-friendly nightlife in the area.
Down towards the Liffey from Dame St. Laundry €7 per bag. Towel and lock rental €1.50 plus €5 returnable deposit. Dorms €10-33; private rooms €30-44. No curfew; present hostel-issued security pass after 11pm.
FOUR COURTS HOSTEL
15-17 Merchants Quay
HOSTEL
01 672 5839 www.fourcourtshostel.com
Unless you’re really lazy and don’t want to walk the two blocks down to Temple Bar from the Quay, this might just be the best hostel in Dublin. “Staff Drink fund: We need beer!” reads the tip jar, and the staff are determined to keep things lighthearted. Tons of complimentary services (DVD, Wii or guitar rental) are all available with a presentation of ID. The dorms themselves are comfortable with lofty ceilings that serve as stuffiness reducer or snore amplifiers, depending on your perspective.
Riverside, Merchant’s Quay. Credit card min. €15, 24hr. cancellation policy. Dorms €15 per week, €19 per weekend. No curfew; present hostel-issued security pass.
LITTON LANE HOSTEL
Litton Ln.
HOSTEL
01 872 8389 www.irish-hostel.com
If you ever looked at Freddie Mercury’s sweaty pantsuit in a Hard Rock Café and didn’t gag, you’ll love this hostel. Housed in what used to be a recording studio for the likes of U2, Van Morrison, and The Cranberries, it’s now been completely remodeled. The rock vibe remains, however, as painted murals of artists and lyrics follow you down the hallways of each floor.
On Bachelor’s Walk, north side of the Liffey. Bathrooms shared. Group discounts available. 10 bed dorm weekday €12, weekend €14; 8 bed dorm €13/15; 6 bed dorm €14/16; private twins €45; doubles €50; 3-bed apartment €75 per night. No curfew; present hostel-issued security pass.
RIVERHOUSE HOTEL
23-24 Eustace St.
HOTEL
01 670 7655 www.riverhousehotel.com
For those who are able to spend a bit more but still want to stay in the Temple Bar area, the Riverhouse Hotel is the place to go. A local feel carries throughout, despite its heavily touristed neighborhood.
Temple Bar; look for a deep-red front with gilded lettering. Discounts for extended stays. High season €50-110; low season €45-90.
Grafton Street
AVALON HOUSE
25 Aungier St.
HOSTEL
01 475 0001 www.avalonhouse.ie
A hugely popular hostel on the south end of town, Avalon house boasts free Wi-Fi, computers for guest use, a movie projector and DVD rental, ping-pong, pool table, and book exchange. And those are just the perks. Also available are laundry machines and an ISA 10% student discount for the first night. Chill out downstairs with a good flick, or head upstairs to the cafe to chat up your fellow travelers.
Follow South Great George’s St. until it turns in Aungier St. Rates change daily, so check website for more information. Reception 24hr.
CENTRAL HOTEL
1-5 Exchequer St.
HOTEL
01 679 7302 www.centralhotel.com
Plush green carpets, huge framed mirrors, Victorian paintings of stockings and petticoats, and that
’s just in the lobby! This posh hotel’s rates change daily, so check the website for booking info. However, expect to pay double on the weekends. Continental (€5) and full Irish (€10) breakfasts available.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 116