A: Ottaviano. Head down V. Ottaviano, turn right onto V. dei Bastioni di Michelangelo, and follow the wall until you see the end of the line to the museums. Entrance is on Vle. Vaticano. A wheelchair-accessible itinerary is available as well as wheelchairs for rent. Call 06 69 88 15 89 for info. €15, EU citizens aged 18-26 and ages 6-18 €8; under 6 free. Last Su of every month all enter free. Entrance with guided and audio tours €31/€25. Galleries open M-Sa and last Su of each month 9am-6pm.
PIAZZA DI SAN PIETRO
At the end of V. della Concializione
PIAZZA
06 69 81 662 www.vaticanstate.va
There is no way to escape the arms of St. Peter—from the start of V. della Conciliazione they beckon pedestrians into the piazza, and once you’ve made your way inside, their embrace is enough to silence even the chattiest tourist in your group. If Bernini had seen this effect more than 400 years after the square’s construction, he would have smiled. He intended the colonnade enclosing the piazza’s ovular area to symbolize the welcoming arms of the Catholic Church and greet tired pilgrims after a circuitous trek through the city.
Bus #23, 34, 40, 271, or 982 to P. Pia or bus #62 down V. della Conciliazione. The Pilgrim Tourist Office, to the left of the Basilica, has a multilingual staff, a gift shop, free bathrooms, a first-aid station, brochures, maps, currency exchange, and Vatican post boxes inside or nearby. Call the number or visit the website above for more info. Free. Piazza open 24hr. Tourist Office open M-Sa 8:30am-6:15pm.
MUSEO NAZIONALE DI CASTEL SANT’ANGELO
Lungotevere Castello 50
CASTLE, MUSEUM
06 68 19 111 www.castelsantangelo.com
If you thought all of Rome was basilicas and ruins, think again: that circular, brick structure on the river is a castle, complete with moat (OK, it’s dried up) and torches (fine, they’re electric). Castel Sant’Angelo dates from the first century CE—when it was built as a mausoleum for Hadrian and his family—and is notable for its whimsical frescoes, winding staircases, and a rooftop offering magnificent views of Rome and the nearby Vatican City.
Bus #23, 34, 40, 271 or 982 to P. Pia. At the end of V. della Conciliazione and at the intersection with Ponte S. Angelo. €8.50, EU students ages 18-25 €6, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Audio tour €4. Open Tu-Su 9am-7:30pm. Ticket office closes 6:30pm.
Trastevere
Ahhh, Trastevere. With old cobblestone streets, hidden-away trattorias, and bustling nightlife, this oft-forgotten gem of a neighborhood is not one to miss. Even if you’re only in Rome a few days, ditch some of those churches you had planned to visit and head across the Tiber to enjoy more intimate piazze (Santa Maria in Trastevere is our favorite), basilicas that rival their more-famous brethren on the other side of the river, and a tight-knit community proud of their unpretentious neighborhood.
ISOLA TIBERINA
OPEN SPACE
With most of Rome’s major sights located further “inland,” tourists tend to forget about Rome’s river, the Fiume Tevere, and the land out yonder. On your way to Trastevere, take the tiny Ponte Fabriccio (aka the Ponte dei Quattro Capi), which, in case you couldn’t tell by its name, bears four stone heads, allegedly those of the architects who originally restored the bridge. You’ll find yourself standing on Isola Tiberina, a small plot of land that, according to legend, is actually composed of the silt-covered bodily remains of Tarquin, an Etruscan ruler who was thrown in the river for raping the beautiful Lucretia. The island is only home to a few establishments, so most people only stay to check out the hard-to-pronounce Fatebenefratelli Hospital, which looks more like a church than a healing facility. If you want to stick around, head down the slope to the open expanse directly on the river. A few people might be fishing, but more will be lylng in the sun on what is the closest thing Rome has to a beach.
From V. del Teatro Marcello, walk towards the water and onto Lungomare dei Pierleoni. Turn left and cross Ponte Fabricio. Free.
GIANICOLO HILL
OPEN SPACE
While people-produced monuments (or at least their remains) take center stage in Central Rome, those in Trastevere are rivaled by the neighborhood’s natural wonders. The highest peak in this part of Rome, Gianicolo Hill, is a large expanse of land highlighted by the Fonte Acqua Paola, a fountain which marks the end of an aqueduct honoring Pope Paul V. While the crystal-blue pool of water and elaborate white facade above it are marvels of human design, the surrounding landscape really steals the show.
From Fonte Aqua Paola, continue uphill, onto V. Aldo Fabrizi and enter the park. You will pass Monumento a Garibaldi on the pleasant walk. Free.
CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE
P. Santa Maria in Trastevere
CHURCH
06 58 14 802
Located in the heart of Trastevere, this church is a tourist favorite, and for good reason: beautiful mosaics decorating the facade are matched by an equally stunning gold interior where more mosaics depicting Jesus, Mary, and a slew of other Biblical figures grace the apse. This chiesa was the first in Rome built exclusively for the Virgin Mary. The piazza out front is a lovely place from which to admire this Byzantine structure.
From Vle. Trastevere, turn right onto V. San Francesco a Ripa and walk 5min. until you get to the piazza. Free. Open M-F 9am-5:30pm.
Termini and Northeast Rome
This large area is unsurprsingly full of a great deal of fascinating sights. The area north of Termini around Via Nomentana and Via XX Settembre is a lovely place to walk. The former is lined with beautiful houses and the latter offers a beautiful vantage point at V. delle Quattro Fontane, where you can see the monuments of Via dei Quirinal, the Spanish Steps, and Santa Maria Maggiore.
VILLA BORGHESE
Bordered by Vle. Trinita dei Monti and V. Porta Pinciana.
GARDENS
06 32 16 564
The Villa Borghese sits north of Termini and provides a needed respite from the city’s bustle. Mostly flat pathways cut through gardens, lawns, and various museums, including the Galleria Borghese, the Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia, and the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, which actually sits right outside the park. Though most visitors choose to stroll or picnic in the park, there is also a bike rental stand just beyond the entrance of the Galleria Borghese.
A: Spagna or Flaminio. Free. Open daily Apr-Aug 7am-9pm; Sept 7am-8pm; Oct-Dec 7am-6pm; Jan-Feb 7am-6pm; Mar 7am-8pm.
BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE
In P. Esquilino
CHURCH
06 69 88 68 02
It’s a good thing this basilica is so close to Termini, or the slew of cheap eats and hostels might be the only first impression visitors received of Rome. Just a 5min. walk from the station, this fifth-century church is a stunning combination of Baroque and classic Roman design. With its white marble artifice and huge flight of stairs, the back of the church (close to V. Cavour) might be even more stunning than the front. Although the frescoes that line the side chapels are impressive, it’s the gold-coffered ceiling and wide apse that really impress. Adjoining the basilica is a small museum containing artifacts and artwork relating to the church’s history, even though the basilica itself offers enough to see.
Termini. Turn right onto V. Giolitti and walk down V. Cavour. Modest dress required. Basilica free. Museum €4, EU students and over 65 €2. Loggia €5, reduced €3. Audio tour (available in English) €4. Basilica open daily 7am-7pm. Museum open daily 9am-6pm.
GALLERIA BORGHESE
Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5
MUSEUM
06 84 16 542 www.galleriaborghese.it
While the beautiful gardens in which it sits are reason enough to make the trek up to this fabulous museum, the Galleria Borghese is a must-see while in Rome. Inside the villa, Cardinal Scipione’s collection includes such standouts as Bernini’s David and the dynamic Apollo and Daphne, Caravaggio’s gruesome David with the Head of Goliath, and other masterpieces by Correggio, Tit
ian, Raphael, Veronese, and Rubens. Note that reservations are required in advance of your visit to the galleria. They are easy to make over the phone or online, but you won’t be able to wander in on a whim. On par with the Vatican Museums and less crowded because of the required reservation, the Galleria Borghese is a true Roman gem.
Enter on V. Pinciana, near V. Isonzo. Proceed up Vle. dell’Uccelleria for about 5min. Reservations required; call 06 855 5952 or visit www.ticketeria.it. €10.50, EU students ages 18-25 €7.25, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 €4. Tours €6, ages 9 and under free. 90min. audio tour (available in English) €5. Open Tu-Su 9am-7pm. Reservation phone line open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 9am-1pm. Guided tours available in English at 9:10am and 11:10am.
PORTA PIA
Piazzale Porta Pia
MONUMENT
The magnificent Porta Pia marks the end of Via XX Settembre and the start of Via Nomentana, the tree-lined street that leads out of the city center. Michelangelo was commissioned by Pope Pius IV to construct this gate to replace the Porta Nomentana, which was not accessible at the time. There is much debate about the degree to which Michelangelo’s plan was altered, especially because he died shortly before the gate’s completion. Today, Porta Pia marks the end of Termini and the beginning of the more residential zones beyond. At the center, a statue of La Patria di Bersaglieri presides over an ideal spot in which one can admire the piazza or grab a lunch break.
A: Repubblica. Turn right onto V. XX Settembre and proceed straight until you reach the Porta Pia; after that, the street becomes V. Nomentana. Free.
GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA
Vle. delle Belle Arti 131
MUSEUM
06 32 29 81 www.gnam.beniculturali.it
The Galleria d’Arte Moderna is not only a beautiful building but one that contains a superb collection of art dating from the past 200 years—certainly a relief to visitors who’ve spent days touring the sights of Ancient Rome. The museum’s light-filled central room for greeting visitors offers an impressive display of works by Klimt, Mondrian, Giacometti, Balla, and Klee. Proceeding immediately ahead, you will reach the most contemporary of the rooms, which is crowned with a hanging sculpture by Calder and adorned with a number of white and black sculptural paintings by Castellani. The rest of the museum is well-organized by century and period, starting with works by Courbet, Van Gogh, Cezanne, Manet, and Degas and heading into the 20th century with a huge collection of De Chirico, Boccioni, Balla, Morandi, Miro, and Modigliani. Make sure to pass through famed modernist Marcel Duchamp’s collection of readymades, including the famous Urinal.
From Vle. del Giardino in the Villa Borghese, veer right and exit the park onto Vle. delle Belle Arti. Museum is on the right. €8, EU students 18-25 €4, ages under 18 and over 65 free.
CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DEGLI ANGELI
P. della Repubblica
CHURCH
06 48 80 812 www.santamariadegliangeliroma.it
At the crest of the expansive P. della Repubblica, this 16th-century church (Michelangelo’s last, at age 86) is monumental, starting with its front doors: the façade is actually taken from the remains of Diocletian’s hot baths (see below), on which Pope Pius IV commissioned the church to be built. Inside, a small rotunda leads into an especially open interior whose design underwent many revisions before it was finally completed. The scarcity of seats makes it less crowded than most churches.
Termini. Walk into the P. del Cinquecento and veer left toward V. Viminale. Open M-F 7am-6:30pm, Sa-Su 7am-7:30pm.
BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN
V. Enrico de Nicola 79
MUSEUM, ANCIENT ROME
06 39 96 77 00
In the heart of busy Termini, the Baths of Diocletian have weathered the city grime. Begun in 298 CE by Maximianus, brother of Diocletian, the baths took nearly 10 years—and more than 40,000 Christian slaves—to build. Upon completion, they were able to accommodate 3000 people in what ended up being much more than a mere “bath”—the Diocletian complex contained libraries, gardens, gallery spaces, gyms, and even brothels. Though the baths may no longer exist in the same state of glory, a visit to them is surely worth it.
Termini. Walk into P. dei Cinquecento; enter on V. Volturno. Part of the Museo Nazionale Romano group; buy 1 ticket for entrance to all 4 sights over 3 days. €7, EU students €3.50, EU citizens under 18 and over 65 free. Open Tu-Su 9am-7:45pm.
Testaccio, Ostiense, and Southern Rome
THE APPIAN WAY
V. Appia Antica
ANCIENT ROME
06 51 35 316 www.parcoappiaantica.it
When you’ve had your way with Rome’s busy corsi, it might be time to try the Appian on for size. Stretching 16km from Porta San Sebastiano to Frattocchie, it tends to be a little big for most people: walking itineraries generally end around the Tomb of Cecilia Metella, though the road extends another 5-6 mi. Don’t expect that first stretch to be all dirt roads surrounded by fields and crumbling aqueducts. Since being paved over, the Appian Way has become, somewhat unfortunately, a modern-day reincarnation of its ancient self: a very busy road. That means you’ll see your fair share of whizzing cars and walking tourists as you follow the street.
In the third century, V. Appia Antica—the main branch of the trail—extended about a mile from Porta Capena to Porta S. Sebastiano. Today that stretch has become V. delle Terme di Caracalla and V. di Porta San Sebastiano, and the true “Way” officially begins after you exit the Aurelian walls. At the time of its use, the ancient road served as the burial ground of the highest Romans and early Christians, since they were forbidden to keep their tombs within the city walls. That means that there are a number of catacombs filled with paintings, sarcophagi, and of course bodies, along the way. Catacombo San Callisto (V. Appia Antica 110 06 51 30 15 80 www.sdb.org) is 20km long and 20m deep. Fifty-six martyrs and 18 saints, many of whom were popes, are down there. The other famous catacomb is Catacombo di San Sebastiano (V. Appia Antica 136 06 78 50 350 www.catacombe.org), the resting place of Saints Peter and Paul, and 160,000 other people. If all the dead bodies are too gross an idea for you, Basilica di San Sebastiano offers a more holy respite, and features Bernini’s masterpiece, Jesus Christ the Redeemer, which was finished when the Baroque master had reached the ripe old age of 81.
As you get further along the Appian Way it becomes more and more rewarding. After Cecilia Metella, you can walk on the road’s original paving stones and gaze at miles of unsullied land. If that sounds more appealing to you but you don’t want to wander that far south, consider walking down V. della Caffarella (to the left of V. Appia Antica) and the pedestrian trails surrounding it instead of hitting the catacombs.
B: Circo Massimo or Piramide, then bus #118, which runs along V. Appia Antica to the S. Sebastiano Catacombs. If you want to walk, head down V. delle Terme di Caracalla from the Circo Massimo. At Piazzale Numa Pompilio, veer right onto V. di Porta S. Sebastiano, through the city wall and onto V. Appia Antica. Info office is located at V. Appia Antica 42, right before Domine Quo Vadis. It offers bike rental, free maps, historical pamphlets, a self-service bus ticket machine, and opportunities for activities along the way. Road and park free. Catacombo San Callisto and Catacombo di San Sebastiano €8, ages 6-15 €5. Basilica di San Sebastiano free. Road is closed to cars on Su, making it the best day to walk the trail. Catacombo San Callisto open Mar-Jan M-Tu 9am-noon and 2-5pm, Th-Su 9am-noon and 2-5pm. Catacombo di San Sebastiano open M-W 9am-noon and 2-5pm, F-Su 9am-noon and 2-5pm. Basilica di San Sebastiano open daily 8am-6pm.
BASILICA DI SAN PAOLO FUORI LE MURA
Piazzale San Paolo 1
CHURCH
06 69 88 08 00 www.basilicasanpaolo.org
This is the light at the end of the tunnel, but unlike the kind you might see during a near-death experience, you should definitely make your way toward this light. After a 30min. walk down the empty-ish V. Ostiense, this magnificent basilica and its gold mosaics are the shining reward you’ve been waiting for. The second-largest
church in Rome, the often overlooked Basilica di San Paolo Fuori le Mura shares extraterritorial status with the Vatican, Santa Maria Maggiore, and San Giovanni in Laterano. Though this sounds cool, it pretty much means that if you buy a stamp from the church’s gift shop, you can only mail the letter in a post box on the premises. Historically, the basilica might be most famous for housing the body of St. Paul after his beheading, but for the aesthetically inclined, the gold mosaics both inside and out steal the show.
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