ACCOMMODATIONS
Turin’s budget accommodations consist of a wide variety of hostels, hotels, and B and Bs that can suit anyone’s tastes, but there’s seemingly no rhyme or reason to the geographical layout of these many properties.
OPEN 011
C. Venezia 11
HOSTEL
011 25 05 35 www.openzero11.it
This hostel has amazingly high ceilings and no bunk-beds in its 34 gleaming rooms, each of which has a bathroom inside. There’s ample space to spread out and relax.
From Porta Nuova, take bus #52 (67 on Su) to V. Chiesa della Salute. Turn right at the next intersection and then left onto C. Venezia. 3- to 4-bed dorms €18; singles €31; doubles €44.
HOTEL CAMPIDOGLIO
V. Corio 11
HOTEL, HOSTEL
011 77 65 808 www.hotelcampidoglio.it
Located down an alley “paved” with grass and smoothed stones, this place truly earns the seemingly contradictory title of “luxury hostel.” Private rooms have had modern renovations and look damn good as a result, the dorm rooms retain their unfortunate pink floral wallpaper. All are bunk free.
Take tram #9 toward Stampala and get off at the Ospedale Maria Vittoria stop. After exiting, turn around and make the 1st right onto V. Cibrario, then turn left onto V. Corio. 3- to 4-bed dorms €22-24; singles €35-40, with bath €50-55; doubles €52-57/€65-70.
HOTEL ALPI RESORT
V. Alfonso Bonafous 5, 3rd fl.
HOTEL
011 81 29 677 www.hotelalpiresort.it
This hotel is no more in the Alps than any part of Turin. It’s still got a great location, though, one block from the city’s bustling nightlife hub. There’re also spacious rooms and free internet in this restored apartment building.
Just off P. Vittorio Veneto. Singles €50-65; doubles €69-85; triples €89-120.
ALBERGO AZALEA
V. Mercanti 16
HOTEL
011 53 81 15 www.hotelazalea.it
Whether you’re watching a football game or playing poker, Albergo Azalea’s spacious common room that overlooks a bright courtyard provides the perfect venue for enjoying the company of others (and the TV). The hotel has 10 meticulously clean and brightly colored rooms in an apartment building just minutes from the heart of Torino’s centro.
100m from P. Castello. Take V. Pietro Micca from the piazza’s southwest corner, and turn right onto V. Mercanti. Singles €40-55; doubles €55-70; triples €75-80; quads €85-90.
SIGHTS
MOLE ANTONELLIANA
V. Montebello 20
TOWER, MUSEUM
011 81 38 560 www.museocinema.it
Once the world’s tallest structure built from traditional masonry (read: brick) as its construction neared completion in the 1880s (before the builders added some concrete—brilliant), the Mole Antonelliana is at the very least Turin’s highest structure. Home to the Museo Nazionale de Cinema, the Mole holds the distinction of being the world’s tallest museum. Head here for magnificent views and lots of movies and movie paraphernalia.
From P. Castello, walk east on V. Giuseppe Verdi and turn left onto V. Montebello. Museum €7, students and over 65 €5. Elevator €5/3.50. Museum open Tu-F 9am-8pm, Sa 9am-11pm, Su 9am-8pm. Elevator open Tu-F 10am-8pm, Sa 10am-11pm, Su 10am-8pm.
PALAZZO DELL’ACCADEMIA DELLE SCIENZE
V. Accademia delle Scienze 6
MUSEUM
011 44 06 903 www.museoegizio.it
It’s not King Tut’s tomb, but this palazzo is still the final resting place of some well-known Egyptian royalty. The first Egyptian collection outside of Cairo, Turin’s Museo Egizio consists of many artifacts that were acquired in the Italian Archaeological Mission of 1903-1937, which was responsible for the acquisition of thousands of artifacts currently on display. Upstairs in the same building is the Galeria Sabuda, the Savoy Gallery, which houses the art collections that were once kept for the personal enjoyment of the Palazzo Reale and Palazzo Carignano’s residents. Renowned for its 14th- to 18th-century Flemish and Dutch paintings, the museum also contains works by Rembrandt and other noted artists.
2 blocks from P. Castello. Egypt museum €7.50, students 18-25 €3.50. Savoy Gallery €4/2. Egypt museum open Tu-Su 8:30am-7:30pm. Savoy Gallery open Tu 8:30am-2pm, W 2-7:30pm, Th 10am-7:30pm, F-Su 8:30am-2pm.
CATTEDRALE DI SAN GIOVANNI
V. Palazzo di Città 4
CHURCH
011 43 61 540
The Holy Shroud of Turin, one of the most enigmatic relics in all of Christianity, is kept in the Turin cathedral’s Capella della Santa Sindone. Said to be Jesus’s burial cloth and bearing a faint image of his face, the 3 by 14 ft. cloth itself is available for viewing by tourists only a few weeks every 25 years—the most recent exhibit was 2010, so book now for 2035. Its full-size reproduction is in Chiesa di San Lorenzo, although this image pretty much resembles one found anywhere in the world with a good search engine.
To Cattedrale di San Giovanni from P. Castello, take V. Palazzo di Citta 1 block and turn left onto V. XX Settembre. San Lorenzo’s entrance is on P. Castello, in front of and to the left when facing the Palazzo Reale gates. Free. Open M-Sa 7am-noon and 3-7pm, Su 8am-noon and 3-7pm.
PALAZZO REALE
Piazzetta Reale
MUSEUM
011 43 61 455 www.ambienteto.arti.benculturali.it
The Princes of Savoy’s residence for more than 200 years, since 1865, the Palazzo Reale has been as much a relic representing a time that predates Italy’s current republic. It is the most central of the “Crown of Delitie,” a ring of Piedmont castles that became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. See it on a guided tour that is the only way to see the palace’s interior.
On P. Castello. Guided tour in Italian with available English audio tour. €6.50, students €3.50. Gardens free. Open Tu-Su 8:30am-6:20pm. Required guided tour lasts 1hr., departs every 30min. Gardens open daily from 9am to 1hr. before sunset.
BASILICA DI SUPERGA
Superga Hill
CHURCH
011 89 97 456 www.basilicadisuperga.com
“The most enchanting position in the world.” That’s how the famous modernist architect Le Corbusier described the site of this basilica perched on a summit 672m above sea level. The view from the summit is spectacular in all directions (when the sky is clear), with Turin and the Alps beyond in clear focus.
Tram #15 to Stazione Sassi, then bus #79 or a cable railway for an 18min. ride uphill. Cable car €4 round-trip, €5.50 on Sa-Su. Basilica free. Royal tombs and royal apartment €4, students €3. Dome €3/2. Cable car open M 9am-noon and 2-8pm, W-F 9am-noon and 2-8pm, Sa-Su 9am-8pm. Returns on the ½hr. Basilica open M-Sa 9am-noon and 3-6pm, Su 12:45-6pm. Tombs and Royal Apartment open daily 9:30am-7:30pm; 30min. guided tour in Italian required with translation available. Dome open M-F 10am-6pm, Sa 10am-7pm, Su 12:45-7pm.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Turin city proper wasn’t the only thing onstage at the 2006 Winter Olympic Games; the majestic white-capped Alps beyond also got their fair share of TV time. While they made an occasional pretty backdrop for the TV cameras in town for the Games, they have always been woven into the fabric of Torinese life. The Via Lattea ski area (0122 79 94 11 www.vialattea.it), or “Milky Way,” hosted Olympic Alpine and cross-country skiing and ski jumping events. The village of Sestriere, just 17km from the French border, hosted Alpine skiing at the Games and got most of the press attention. Farther away, outside of the long Olympic reach, is Alagna (0163 92 29 22 www.freerideparadise.it) in the Monte Rosa region. This place is known for its 1200m vertical drop, expert-only trails, and wide open pistes that allow skiiers to chart their own path down.
The Piedmont Region tourism office (011 43 21 504 www.piemontefeel.it) in Turin provides abundant information about planning a ski trip in the area.
FOOD
The Savoys first drank cioccolato in the 1600s, and since then, it’s been all chocolate all the time in th
e ex-capital city that’s home to the famous Nutella and Ferrero Rocher brands. Beyond chocolate, Piedmont’s cuisine has little international stature. Even within the city, food is focused around cafes and bars rather than elaborate sit-down restaurants. Where it’s available, Piedmontese food blends northern Italian cooking with French influences.
EATALY
V. Nizza 224
MARKET
011 19 50 68 11 www.eataly.it
Eataly feels like a town of its own, with dozens of house-like stores set up shop under this market’s tremendous glass skylights. With outlets serving gelato, pizza, pasta, meat, cheese, and more, plus a full gourmet grocery and wine shop, the 10,000-square-foot facility that is Eataly could practically take a half-day of sightseeing on its own.
Take bus #1, 18, or 35 to Lingotto. Variable. Open daily 10am-10:30pm
AGNOLOTTI AND FRIENDS
P. Corpus Domini 18/b
RISTORANTE
011 43 38 792 www.agnolottiandfriends.it
The pedestrian-only piazza here allows patrons to sit outside and enjoy the Piedmont region in more ways than one—agnolottti, a beef- and-vegetable-stuffed ravioli that is the restaurant’s specialty, is a signature Piedmont dish.
Take V. Palazzo della Citta 2 blocks from P. Castello. Appetizers €7.50. Agnolotti €12. Open daily 12:30-3pm and 8pm-midnight.
IL PUNTO VERDE
V. San Massimo 17
VEGETARIAN
011 88 55 43 www.il-punto-verde.it
Where do you go to eat when you don’t want meat? Heading toward the university’s always a good bet—that whole “liberal bastion” thing—and doing so will lead weary vegetarian travelers right to Il Punto Verde’s €5 student lunch menu and vast array of options, including vegan dishes.
Off V. Po, near P. Carlo Emanuele II. Cover €1.80. Primi and secondi €8. Open M-F 12:30-2:30pm and 7-10:30pm, Sa 7-10:30pm.
CAFFÉ CIOCCOLATERIA AL BICERIN
P. della Consolata 5
CAFE
011 43 69 325 www.bicerin.it
Count Chocula is wondering why he didn’t think of this. Coffee, cream, and chocolate together in a glass mug that permits the layers of goodness to be revealed in all their glory. This delightful confection—Bicerin (€5)—has been served here since 1763.
Take C. Regina Margherita through P. della Repubblica, then turn left onto V. del Orfane and right onto the small piazza. Bicerin cake €4.50. Open M-Tu 8:30am-7:30pm, Th-F 8:30am-7:30pm, Sa-Su 8:30am-1pm and 3:30-7:30pm.
NIGHTLIFE
It’s hard to tell when Torino sleeps—things are happening every night of the week. From the pounding bass of dance clubs, to quiet wine bars and even calmer cafes, Turin offers something for just about every taste. I Murazzi, a long boardwalk between Ponte V. Emanuele I and Ponte Umberto along the west bank of the Po, is unquestionably the epicenter of nighttime revelry.
OLÉ MADRID
V. Murazzi del Po 5
BAR
338 58 02 884
Spanish theme? Rather unclear where that came from. But this is for sure: strutting in on a Saturday night in a sombrero would be rather inconvenient, as the dance floor is packed with students swaying to the rhythms of the club’s DJs.
On the banks of the Po. From Porta Nuova, walk or take tram #9 or bus #34, 52, or 67 to C. Massimo d’Azeglio. Walk to the bridge and down the ramps to the left. Shots €2. Beer €4. Cocktails €6. Open M-Th 9:30pm-3am, F-Sa 9:30pm-5am, Su 9:30pm-3am.
SIX NATIONS MURPHY’S PUB
C. Vittorio Emanuele II 28
BAR
011 88 72 55 www.sixnations.it
Come for the English, stay for the pints. Even when no football match is on the big screen (and especially if one is), this pub draws British expats and international students looking for a place to speak their mother tongue.
On C. Vittorio Emanuele, to right when exiting Porta Nuova. Beer €3-5. Cocktails €5.50 Open daily 6pm-3am.
FLUIDO
Vle. Umberto Cagni 7
CLUB
011 66 94 557 www.fluido.to
Everything in Fluido flows down from the natural amphitheater, really a large grassy depression, that serves as its late-night seating bowl. Live music fills this happening spot outside the club’s front doors with beach ball-bouncing students and hipsters.
On the banks of the Po. Shots €3. Cocktails €6. Open Tu-W 10am-2am, Th 10am-3am, F-Sa 10am-4am, Su 10am-1:30am.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Turismo Torino has helpful staff who speak English, French, German, and Spanish (oh, and Italian, too). They offer an excellent map of Turin and its transit system as well as info on museums, cafes, and tours. (P. Castello 161 011 53 51 81 www.turismotorino.org At the intersection of P. Castello and V. Garibaldi. Also has an info booth at Porta Nuova, opposite platform 11. Open daily 9am-7pm.)
Emergency!
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Farmacia Porta Nuova. (V. Paulo Sacchi 4 011 51 75 237 Exit Porta Nuova to the left. Pharmacies post after-hours rotation, available at www.farmapiemonte.org. Open daily 8am-7:30pm.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: San Giovanni Batista, commonly known as Molinette (C. Bramante 88-90 011 63 31 633 www.molinette.piemonte.it), Maria Adelaide (V. Zuretti 29 011 69 33 111 www.cto.to.it), Mauriziano Umberto I (Largo Turati 62 011 50 81 111).
Getting There
By Plane
Caselle Airport (www.aeroportoditorino.it), 20km from the city, serves European destinations. From Porta Nuova, take the blue Sadem buses to “Caselle Airport” via Porta Susa. (011 22 72 022 €5.50. 30min.) Buses depart frequently to airport (5:15am-11:15pm) and to the city (6:05am-12:05am). Buy tickets in bars and newstands right outside the station or onboard (€0.50 surcharge). Train to the airport departs from Stazione Dora ( €3.40. 20min., every 30min.) to the airport 5:04am-11:09pm and to Turin 5:05am-9:45pm. The DoraFly bus connects Stazione Dora to Porta Susa and the underground line, or take tram #10 from Porta Susa or buses #46 or 49.
By Train
Stazione Porta Nuova (89 20 21 or 011 66 53 098), on C.Vittorio Emanuele II, is the main hub. Trains to: Milan ( €9.55. 2hr., departs every hr. 4:50am-10:50pm.); Rome ( From €41. 6-7hr., 9 per day 6:37am-9:55pm.); Venice. ( From €35. 5hr., departs every hr. 4:50am-10:50pm.) Turin’s Stazione Porta Susa is one stop toward Milan and has TGV trains to Paris via Lyon. ( Around €95. 5-6hr.; 8:11am, 9:40am, 5:35pm, 7:05pm, 9:18pm.)
Getting Around
Buy public transportation tickets at tabaccherie, newstands, or bars. Buses run daily 5am-1am; some routes stop at midnight. Friday through Saturday, a few special “Night Buster” routes run until 5am, so if you’re paying attention, you’ll realize that means 24hr. service. ( 70min. tickets to city buses and trams €1, 1-day tickets €3.50, weekly passes €9.50.) The Metro is less useful for seeing the city and, because it is still under construction, can be unreliable. Tickets (€1) are single-use only, but valid for 70min. on other forms of transport. Get a public transit map that include all bus and tram routes from the tourist office. Taxis can be found throughout the city or phoned for service (011 57 37 or 011 57 30). For Bike Rental, try Tourinbike. (V. Fiochetto 39 011 57 93 314 www.tourinbike.com €10 per 4hr., €15 per day, discounts for multiple days.)
tourin’ card
Boy, does Turin have a deal for you! The biggest steal in the city is the Torino+Piemonte Card ( 48hr. €20, 7-days €35), which provides free entrance to all the museums and monuments in Turin and Piedmont, rides on public transportation (except underground), access to the hop-on, hop-off TurismoBus Torino, the panoramic lift in the Mole, the Sassi-Superga cable car, and the boats for river navigation on the Po, as well as discounts on guided tours and shows. The card is available at any Turismo Torino info point and at most hotels.
venice venezia
041
On any given day, the number of tourists in Venice—20 million annually—constitutes a larger percentage of the city’s pop
ulation than do locals—all 60,000 of them. This has given the city an unfairly reductive reputation as a tourist hub whose beauty and charm have been eviscerated by camera-toting yokels without an appreciation for anything outside a good photo op. Though you’re certain to encounter the neon fanny pack crowd in the major squares, churches, museums, and monuments, if you let yourself escape down any one of Venice’s many labyrinthine side streets, you’ll discover traces of Venice’s glorious past preserved in dilapidated palazzi, beautiful syncretic architecture hinting at Eastern influences, and street signs written in the vanishing Venetian dialect. Moreover, you’ll find a vibrant and resilient local culture impervious to the tourist onslaught. Characterized by an incredible performance art and music scene, some of Italy’s best seafood, bustling docks where local artisans still repair boats by hand, and numerous schools dedicated to building upon Venice’s artistic legacy in the modern era, this hardy spirit makes modern Venice a joy to explore. This collection of 117 islands in a lagoon of the Adriatic Sea is famously both a difficult city to know and an easy city to love, but if you’re not afraid to step off the beaten path, you’ll come to appreciate the subtleties of the Venetian character that can’t be discovered on a gondola ride or captured in a postcard.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 137