NOIR
Lungarno Corsini 12/14r
BAR
055 21 07 51
This super-classy watering hole spills over to the other side of the street, where patrons balancing cocktails and munchies lean against the wall of the Arno. Inside is dark, trendy, and loud, with low, cushioned benches lining the walls. Fill your plate from the extensive aperitivo buffet and go watch the sunset over the river.
Facing Ponte Vecchio, it’s on your right. Bottled beer €5. Cocktails €6-7. Open daily noon-3am.
OLD STOVE
P. della Signoria 30r
IRISH PUB
055 29 52 32 www.theoldstovepub.com
Hey look, it’s another Irish pub! Which, of course, actually means American because Irish people know better than to go to Florence for drinking. The dive-bar inside pales in comparison to the social and open outdoor seating. Wednesdays are Dollar Days—pay in US$ all day long. Other branches by the Duomo and Il Porcellino.
Walk to the side of P. della Repubblica that doesn’t have the carousel, and look down the street to the left. There it is. Happy hour pints €4. Pints €6. Cocktails €7. Open M-Th noon-2am, F-Sa noon-3am, Su noon-2am. Happy hour M-Th 5-9pm.
SHOT CAFE
V. dei Pucci 5
BAR
055 28 20 93
At least it looks different from the other American bars? This aggressively quirky little bar is covered in inner tubes and stuffed fish because, well, why not? The music is American “oldies,” if you define oldies as anything recorded between 1920 and 2005. The TV is usually tuned to MTV—now that’s retro.
A block north of the Duomo. Happy hour 1st drink €3.50, 2nd €3, 3rd €2.50. Free Wi-Fi. Shots €2.50. Pitchers €9. Open daily 5pm-3am. Happy hour until 9pm.
The Outer Ring
Although there are bars to be found in many areas around here (except around P. San Marco), by far the best nightlife is to the east in the university area. On nice evenings, Piazza Sant’Ambrogio and Piazza Ghiberti are swarmed with young people carrying drinks from the few area bars.
LAS PALMAS
Largo Annigoni
BAR
347 27 60 033 www.laspalmasfirenze.it
Hundreds of locals pack this stretch of blacktop, transforming what may or may not qualify as a piazza by day into a rowdy block party by night. There’s a lovely neighborhood feel here, with groups of students, families, and older folk crammed into the scores of tables covered by piles of food from the generous aperitivo buffet and children entertaining themselves at the foosball and table tennis games off to the side. A big stage bordering the space features performances and movies all summer as well as live screenings of sporting events.
Off of P. Ghiberti, in front of the La Nazione building. Check website for full-season performance and screening schedule. Beer €5. Pizza €5-8. Primi €7-10. Open daily May-Sept, hours vary.
SANT’AMBROGIO
P. Sant’Ambrogio 7r
BAR
055 24 10 35
This bar seems to single-handedly service the entire P. Sant’Ambrogio scene. And since this piazza is responsible for about 40% of Florentine nightlife overall, that’s saying something. The plentiful outdoor seating located across the piazza from the bar itself spills over onto the steps of the church, creating a pleasant evening bustle. By nightfall, the whole area is full of young people sipping drinks from Sant’Ambrogio.
The piazza is at the end of V. Pietrapiana. Wine €4-7. Hard liquors €6-7. Open M-Sa 8:30am-2am. Aperitivo happy hour 6-9pm.
SPACE CLUB ELECTRONIC
V. Palazzuolo 37
CLUB
055 29 30 82 www.spaceelectronic.net
Do you wish you could go clubbing in Epcot? Then this utterly ridiculous club is the place for you. Descend into the depths of its space-age neon dance hall for a taste of the European clubbing scene, or as close as you’ll get to that in central Florence. If the bouncer waves you in, don’t be fooled into thinking you got a free entrance—you pay the steep cover (€16) when you leave. And hold tight to your drink ticket when crowding around the aquarium bar, because the fine for losing it is sky high.
From river, take V. Melegnano to V. Palazzuolo, then turn right. Cover €16 and it only goes up from there. Open daily 10pm-4am.
PLAZ
V. Pietrapiana 36r
CAFE, BAR
055 24 20 81
Sit under a tent on this busy little piazza and do some quality web surfing (courtesy of free Wi-Fi) while attacking an enormous salad (€8) or sweet crepe (€5). At night the scene shifts, and you’ll begin to see drunk university students stumble past as you sip an aromatic (€9-10).
On P. die Ciompli. Cover €1.50. Aperitivo buffet from €8. Open daily 8am-3am.
JOSHUA TREE
V. della Scala 37r
BAR
www.thejoshuatreepub.com
The dark, bold colors of this Irish-style pub may remind you of the nicer of your college haunts. It is smaller than similar places in town which means it doesn’t feel deserted in the early hours of the evening. Good place to start your adventures, or to just hang out on a weeknight.
At corner of V. Benedetta. Pints €5. Open daily 4pm-2am. Happy hour 4-9:30pm.
MOSTODOLCE
V. Nazionale 114r
BAR
055 23 02 928 www.mostodolce.it
The one pub around San Lorenzo likely to have one or two Italians present. Large and comfortable, with big crowds for sporting events and artisanal beers brewed in Prato. If you’re around for a while (or drink fast) there’s a “10th beer free” punch-card.
On the corner of V. Guelfa. Pints from €6. Open daily 5pm-2am.
KITSCH BAR
Vle. Gramsci 1r
BAR, CONCERT VENUE
055 23 43 890
If a summer evening’s booze-fueled wanderings take you straying to the edge of the historic city center, a small outdoor stage featuring local musicians will probably attract you to Kitsch. On evenings that don’t feature live music, you can still find a bar that, bedecked with a giant Buddha, knock-off Klimt, and patio with glowing floors, certainly lives up to the place’s name.
The traffic circle on the far right edge of your map, just above the river. Aperitivo buffet €8. Happy hour beer and cocktails €5. Open daily 6:30pm-2am. Aperitivo buffet 6:30-10:30pm. Happy hour 10pm-1am.
DUBLIN PUB
V. Faenza 27r
BAR
055 27 41 571 www.dublinpub.it
Dartboards, beer ads, drunk Americans—the works. There are a few tables outside, but beware the splash of street-cleaning zambonis after midnight. Across the street is a fine gelateria for when you want to wash down the beer with something sweet.
The far end of V. Faenza. Pint of cider €4.40. Pint of Guinness €6. Pizza €5. Open daily 5pm-2am.
I VISACCI
V. Borgo degli Albizi 80/82r
BAR
055 26 39 443
Five shots for €5 is a deal offered at a few places in town, but it’s good to know which they are. This is an excellent joint for a pre-game—if you ever make it out the door after the €5 cocktails and three beers for €10.
Coming from Duomo, take a left off Proconsolo. 5 shots for €5. 3 beers for €10. Cocktails €5. Open daily 10am “till late.”
The Oltrarno
This is the part of the city that the locals go to party. Since they’re real people with real jobs, things tend to be much more happening on the weekends. In the west, Piazza di Santo Spirito is the most lively, while in the east, investigate Piazza Poggi, at the base of Piazzale Michelangelo, and the area just over the Ponte San Niccolo to get your game on. In late summer, bars along the southern banks of the Arno enliven the entire scene.
VOLUME
P. di Santo Spirito 5r
BAR
055 23 81 460
There’s a great quirky atmosphere in this “museo libreria caffè.” Cluttered and busy, Volume sports mi
smatched chairs low to the ground and stacks of books, a juke box (€0.50 per play) and a giant old printing press for good measure. The place is just as much about gelato and sweets as it is about cocktails, but the gelato is fancy, starting at €2.50. Don’t drunkenly nibble on the cones in the display case—they’re coated with something icky to keep the flies away.
Right of the church, sandwiched between 2 larger establishments. Cocktails €7. Crepes €4-7. Open daily 11am-3am.
JAMES JOYCE PUB
Lungarno b. Cellini 1r
BAR
055 65 80 856
This enormous, popular bar is lively with students, particularly on nice weekend evenings. You don’t even have to step inside to order another round of drinks—a window in the bar opens onto the patio. There’s foosball and literary kitsch on the walls, and a generally local, fun vibe.
On the right, following the perilous traffic circle after the Ponte San Niccolo. Shots €3-4. Wine from €4.50. Bottled beer €5. Open daily until 3am.
NEGRONI
V. de’ Renai 17r
BAR
055 24 36 47 www.negronibar.com
This is the principal bar of the lovely P. Poggi, where patrons spill out of the official outdoor seating to populate the small green square and the banks of the Arno. The petite interior is hopping when the DJ’s there or the weather’s bad.
On P. Poggi. Grappa €4. Beer €5.50. Aperitivo buffet €7-11. Open M-Sa 8am-2am, Su 6:30pm-2am. Aperitivo 7-11pm.
POP CAFE
P. di Santo Spirito 18a
BAR
055 21 38 52 www.popcafe.it
This simple setup on a lively piazza is enlivened by a DJ and cheap drinks. Beer, shots, and prosecco are all €3 at the bar, €4 at the outside tables. Non-carnivores take heed—the aperitivo buffet is vegetarian, as is the weekday lunch menu. Stumble back in the morning, because they proudly offer bagel sandwiches.
To the left of the church. Beer, shots, and prosecco €3-4. Bagel sandwiches €5. Open daily 11:30am-2am.
FLO
Piazzale Michelangelo 84
BAR
055 65 07 91 www.flofirenze.com
If the climb to the Piazzale at night leaves you needing a drink to recover, check out Flo. The scene is noisy and crowded, but the view is divine. If you’re staying at the camping hostel next door, then the music from Flo is likely to keep you up. Might as well join the party.
To the left of the Piazzale, or take the #12 or 13 bus. Beer €6. Cocktails €8. Open daily 7pm-3am.
glbt nightlife
A number of bars and clubs in the Santa Croce area cater to a GLBT clientele—however, they would prefer not to be listed in guidebooks. Many of these establishments are unmarked or tucked down alleys. If you can get yourself in the correct general vicinity, the staff at neighboring bars can usually direct you the rest of the way. For a list of gay-friendly nightlife options, contact Arcigay (www.arcigay.it).
ARTS AND CULTURE
You may have heard there was this Renaissance thing here once. As you might guess, this is very much a visual arts town. To read about Florence’s prodigious collection of art, see Sights. If you’re hoping to encounter art other than paintings and sculptures, head to Lucca.
Theater and Music
There’s not much of a scene for original theater in Florence, but when something comes to town you’ll know about it—the city is emblazoned with posters for theatrical events up to a month away.
CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DE’ RICCI
V. del Corso
DUOMO
055 21 50 44
An unassuming little church with a loud voice, this chiesa boasts a pretty spectacular pipe organ. Fortunately for the music-starved traveler, it likes to show it off. Organ vespers are played every evening at 7pm, followed by a recital of organ music from 8-10 pm.
From the Duomo, take V. dei Calzaioli south and turn left onto del V. del Corso. Free. Daily vespers 7pm, recital 8pm.
TEATRO VERDI
V. Ghibbellina 99r
THE OUTER RING
055 21 23 20 www.teatroverdionline.it
This grand concert hall lined with box seats is home to orchestra concerts and other live music events.
From P. Santa Croce, walk up V. Giovanni da Verazzano. Credit card required for phone or online reservations. Box office open daily 4-7pm during the theater season. Alternative box office at V. Alammani 39 (near the train station) open M-F 9:30am-7pm, Sa 9:30am-2pm.
Spectator Sports
STADIO ARTEMIO FRANCHI
Vle. Manfredo Fanti 4/6
OUTSKIRTS
055 58 78 58 www.fiorentina.it
As is true for most Italian cities, Florence has a soccer team, and that soccer team is one of the primary obsessions of the city’s residents. Purple-clad Fiorentina waver on the brink of success but never quite seem to achieve it, making them a great team to support if you’re more into roller-coaster rides than easy victories. Catch a game here on Sundays throughout most of the year. The stadium is mostly uncovered, though, so pick a day when it’s not raining.
Take bus #7, 17, or 20 or train from Santa Maria Novella to Firenze Campo Marte. The bus takes you directly to the stadium; it ’s a short walk from the train. Call ahead for wheelchair-accessible seats. Ticket office open M-F 9:30am-12:30pm and 2:30-6:30pm. Most matches Su afternoons Sept-May.
SHOPPING
Florentines cook up some of the snazziest window displays you’ll ever see—you’ll be tempted to stop in nearly every store you pass. If you’re going to be in the city for a while, wait for the sales. The best months for shopping are January and July. As retailers prepare for the August slump, when the locals desert the city for the seashore, they chop prices drastically. Mid-July is also the season of scorching temperatures, so you’ll have more than one reason to stay inside the air-conditioned stores.
Open-Air Markets
MERCATO CENTRALE
P. Mercato Centrale
THE OUTER RING
It’s best to come here to eat, but you can come to sightsee too. Watch real Florentines (and clever tourists) peer at tomatoes and squeeze melons in the vast produce market.
It ’s the huge green-and-red building in the middle of all those sidewalk vendors. Some stalls accept credit cards, others don’t. Market rate. Open M-F 7am-2:30pm, Sa 7am-5pm.
SAN LORENZO
San Lorenzo
THE OUTER RING
Unless you’re very serious about going off the beaten path, this is where you’ll come for souvenir and knockoff shopping. You’ll find leather bags, jackets, belts, journals, and gloves, as well as stationery, hats, tapestries, pashminas, doodads, and tourist schlock.
The area around San Lorenzo and Mercato Centrale Some are cash only, some take credit cards. Open daily 9am-7pm.
MERCATO NUOVO (MERCATO DEL PORCELLINO)
P. di Mercato Nuovo
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA
A similar selection to the San Lorenzo market can be found here, but the posher location means higher prices in this ancient marketplace. Then again, there are instances of the real deal mixed in with the knock-offs, so this is a good spot if you know enough to judge the quality of what you’re looking at. Also check out the bronze boar (il Porcellino) and pop a coin in his drooling fountain mouth for good luck.
From Ponte Vecchio, take V. Santa Maria north. Most, but not all, take credit cards. Open daily 9am-7pm.
Clothing
Many department stores dot the area around P. della Signoria and Santa Maria Novella. Here are some good picks for filling out a travel wardrobe with more European styles.
PROMOD
V. dei Cerretani 46-48r
THE OUTER RING
055 21 78 44 www.promod.eu
Akin to H and M or Forever 21, Promod sells bargain-priced, relatively disposable current fashions. Stocks mostly women’s clothing.
Take V. Cerretani west from the Duomo. Open daily 10am-8pm.
GOLDENPOINT
THE OUTER RING
055 28 42 19 www.goldenpointonline.com
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 154