V. Vittorio Veneto 74
GELATERIA
0583 16 70 37 www.gelateriaveneta.net
While it may seem odd to list a gelateria as a nighttime destination, visit adorable Veneta in the evening and you’ll understand. The locals have made it an after-dinner hotspot in the manner of a 1950s ice cream parlor full of bobbysoxers and drugstore Romeos.
At intersection with C. Garibaldi. Cover €1. Cones from €2. Open daily 10:30am-1am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Lucca is an extremely musical town. The Puccini Festival ensures at least one performance every single day of the year, and summertime sees an explosion of concerts and musical events.
PUCCINI E LA SUA LUCCA
Chiesa di San Giovanni
OPERA
340 81 06 042 www.puccinielasualucca.com
Hometown hero Giacomo Puccini is celebrated every single night of the year in Lucca with recitals of his arias and art songs often paired with vocal music by Mozart and Verdi. That makes this the only permanent festival in the world and suggests that these folks don’t really understand the concept behind festivals.
Off V. Duomo. Nightly concerts €17, students €12. Tickets on sale at Chiesa di San Giovanni daily 10am-7:15pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Ufficio Regionale includes an internet point, currency exchange, booking assistance, and a tourist bus checkpoint. (P. Santa Maria 35 0583 91 99 31 www.luccaturismo.it Look for “i” sign, on the right. Open in summer 9am-8pm; in fall, winter, and spring 9am-1pm and 3-6pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: Polizia Municipale. (Vle. Camillo Benso Conte di Cavour 1 0583 45 51 Outside the walls to the south.) Carabinieri. (Cortile degli Svizzeri 0583 47 821 In the southwest of the centro.)
• LATE-NIGHT PHARMACIES: Farmacia Comunale. (P. Curatone Outside the city walls, opposite Baluardo San Colombano. Open 24hr.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Campodi Marte provides emergency medical attention. (V. dell’Ospedale 0583 95 57 91 Outside the city walls, in the northeast corner. Open for emergencies 24hr.)
Getting There
By Train
The train station is in Piazzale Ricasoli, just south of the city walls. ( Ticket office open daily 6:30am-8:10pm. Station open M-F 4:30am-12:30am, Sa-Su 5:30am-12:30am.) To Florence ( €5.10. 80min., on 32s and 39s 5:05am-10:32pm.), Pisa ( €2.40. 30min., on 42s and 12s 7am-9:42pm.), and numerous local destinations.
By Bus
Lazzi (0583 58 78 97 www.valibus.it) in Piazzale Verdi. To Florence ( €5.10. 70min., 1-2 per hr.), and Pisa. ( €2.40. 50min., 1-2 per hr.)
naples napoli
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Naples is a bustling, hectic city—revel in it if you like, revile it if you must, just don’t be scared by it. Travelers who know where they’re going (or just look like they do) will fare best. Traffic zooms through the streets in lanes half the width of the painted lines. Red lights are mere suggestions. Crossing the street is a battle of wills—one of which has a V8 engine on its side. Yet Neopolitans take it all in stride. Cheerful chaos is a lifestyle they have eagerly adopted, though they now take out the trash, and much of the crime and grime has gone with it. Laughing together in one hearty chuckle, locals seem to spend every waking hour on the town, drinking, smoking, carousing, and eating.
It’s a shame tourists often treat this city as a mere stopover while exploring nearby attractions. All they see is the train station—unruly and unclean, the worst of stereotypical Naples, but many areas have the beauty of a resort town. Scrub off the grime and graffitti, and there’s much to be found in the city’s architecturally masterful centro. Don’t trust us? Trust UNESCO, which recently deemed Naples’ historical center a World Heritage Site. For millennia, the city has been an outpost for the world’s greatest civilizations, so forgive Naples its untidiness and petty crime: the continent and, really, the world as they stand in the modern era owe a lot to this scrappy city.
ORIENTATION
Stazione Centrale and Centro Storico
Naples’s transit hub, Stazione Centrale opens onto the vast, chaotic Piazza Garibaldi, full of vendors and traffic that stops for no man or woman. Hotels surround the piazza and fill its nearby streets. The neighborhood is seedy, and many streets are, in fact, lined with trash. A little further west, the Centro Storico, also known as Spaccanapoli, is Naples’s oldest neighborhood, filled with tiny alleys and beautiful architecture. Though you may stay near the train station, for sightseeing, eating, and nightlife, you should definitely head to more central parts of the city.
Western Naples
The neighborhoods just get nicer as you get further away from the train station. Piazza del Plebiscito was once one of the most important locations in Naples, home to the Palazzo Reale and a stunning church. Today, it has declined in vitality but remains central to the city. The Spanish Quarter is to the northwest and features a number of small but bustling streets heading up the hill. On a hill high above the city (best ascended by funicular), Vomero is classy and serene. Going even further west, Chiaia is fashionable while closer to sea level.
ACCOMMODATIONS
The first thing most travelers see upon arriving in Naples is a neon junkyard of hotels in the hectic and unpleasant area near Stazione Centrale. Don’t trust anyone who approaches you in the station—people working on commission are happy to lead naive tourists to unlicensed and overpriced hotels seedier than those you could find on your own. There are several comfortable and inexpensive options in this area; just be careful when returning at night. Centro Storico and Piazza del Plebiscito have much better-located options, though at noticeably higher prices. Progressing further west, Vomero, Chiaia, and Mergellina boast numerous hospitable bed and breakfasts in quiet areas that provide excellent views of the city or the sea.
Stazione Centrale and Centro Storico
Accommodations in Naples’s historical heart are more convenient and thus pricier, but they’ll put travelers just a dough’s throw away from the ancient streets that are the pizza capital of the world.
6 SMALL ROOMS
V. Diodato Lioy 18
HOSTEL
081 79 01 378 www.6smallrooms.com
Modesty may be a virtue, but the Australian owners of this beautiful hostel seem to be taking it a bit far with the name of this place. Most of the “small” rooms are huge, with high ceilings and fun, elaborate murals of the city and ancient Roman gods.
1: Dante. Walk down V. Toledo, turn left onto V. Tommaso Senise, and make the 1st right onto + V. Diodato Lioy. Some rooms with A/C. Dorms €20; singles €25-45; doubles €50-65; triples €60-75; quads €80-95. 10% Let’s Go discount.
NAPLES PIZZA HOSTEL
V. San Paulo ai Tribunali
HOSTEL
081 19 32 35 62 www.naplespizzahostel.com
When guests open the door to their room, it’s clear this hostel is a step above the rest. Most chambers have loft beds up a set of steps above the other bunks, creating a secret, secluded single within a dorm. One guest apparently enjoyed her stay so much that she painted a mural of—what else?—happy students eating Neopolitan pizza on the orange walls of the common room.
Taking V. Tribunali from the station, turn right onto V. San Paulo ai Tribunali. 5-bed dorms €15-18; singles €25-40; doubles €35-55; triples €49-70, quads €65-79.
HOTEL GINEVRA
V. Genova 116
HOTEL
081 28 32 10 www.hotelginevra.it
Exiting Naples’s train station is always an adventure, but few expect a full-blown safari. Get ready for it as you walk into this hotel and investigate its “ethnic” rooms, which come with elephant carvings on the door, bamboo on the walls, and vines on the ceiling.
Take the 1st right out of the station onto C. Novara, then the next right onto V. Genova. Singles €25-45; doubles €35-65; triples €45-75. 10% Let’s Go discount.
HOSTEL PENSIONE MANCINI
V. P.S. Mancini 33
HOSTEL, PENSIONE
081 55 36 731 www.hostelpensionemancini.com
The helpful owners make this hostel, located in a distinctly average building, stand out. Bedrooms are comfortable, some with balconies. But the overwhelming hospitality of an owner who organizes outings for and shares extensive knowledge of the city with his guests is the real bonus of staying here.
Directly across the piazza from the station. Dorms €13-16; singles €25-30, with bath €40-45; doubles €35-45/40-50; triples €54-66/60-70; quads €60-68/70-80. 10% Let’s Go discount.
HOTEL ZARA
V. Firenze 81
HOTEL
081 28 71 25 www.hotelzara.it
Comfy common areas with deep couches, large TV, and a fish tank make socializing easy, while the simple rooms make for a good night’s sleep.
Walk down the right side of P. Garibaldi from the station and turn onto V. Milano, then right onto V. Firenze. Singles €25-35; doubles €30, with bath €35; triples €50/60.
Western Naples
HOSTEL OF THE SUN
V. Melisurgo 15, 7th fl.
HOSTEL
081 42 06 393 www.hostelnapoli.com
This hostel is quite simply the most fun place you can stay in Naples. The exuberant—somehow even that strong word seems too weak—staff begins everyone’s stay with an in-depth and amusing introduction to the city and a collection of free maps to stuff in pockets. They keep it going by hosting several outings weekly, occasionally cooking for guests, and relaxing with them in the colorful and comfortable common room which features a flatscreen TV, DVDs, computers, and Nintendo Wii. (The owner has been known to challenge guests; those who beat him get a free stay, though he claims an undefeated record.)
Take the R2 bus from C. Umberto I near the station, get off at the 2nd stop on V. Depretis. Breakfast included. Private rooms with ensuite A/C. Free lockers. Free internet and Wi-Fi. 5- to 7-bed dorms €16-20; doubles €55-60, with bath €60-70; triples €75-80/€70-90; quads €80-90/€85-100. 10% Let’s Go discount. Reception 24hr.
CAPPELLA VECCHIA 11
Vicolo Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia 11, 1st fl.
B AND B
081 24 05 117 www.cappellavecchia11.it
Meeting other travelers has never been easier than at the communal breakfast table of this well kept B and B. The common room has comfortable couches and a public computer, while the beds are cozy and the bathrooms large. If cappella Vecchia is full, head across the hall to Napoliday, (081 24 81 106 www.napoliday.it) which is equally nice and only slightly pricier.
From V. Santa Caterina just before P. dei Martiri, turn onto the small alleyway of Vicolo Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia. Take the stairs to the right. Singles €50-70; doubles €80-110.
HOTEL AND HOSTEL BELLA CAPRI
V. Meilsurgo 4, 6th fl.
HOSTEL
081 55 29 494 www.bellacapri.it
The ground-floor hotel for people over 30 here is kept well-hidden from the groups of students who occupy the upper floor. Every night is a social occasion, with guests cooking in the communal kitchen, chatting, and gathering for near-nightly outings to bars in the centro.
R2 bus from C. Umberto I near the station to the 2nd stop on V. Depretis. After hours, ring bell. Dorms €15-21; singles €40-50, with bath €50-70; doubles €50-60/€60-80; triples €70-80 /€80-100; quads €80-90/€90-110. 10% Let’s Go discount.
HOTEL TOLEDO
V. Montecalvario 15
HOTEL
081 40 68 00 www.hoteltoledo.com
The peaceful rooftop terrace is just one highlight of this Spanish Quarter property’s common areas. They also include a large bar with throne-like dining chairs and couches that guests sink into while enjoying a nightcap.
From P. Dante, walk down V. Toledo and turn right onto V. Montecalvario. Singles €50-65; doubles €70-100; suites €100-120.
SIGHTS
Been there, done that. So the Greeks, Romans, and Spanish have each said about the city of Naples, and each of their conquests has left a unique mark on this remarkably historical metropolis. Home to a world-renowned antiquarian museum and an ancient underground system that remains a remarkable feat of engineering, Naples has got the really-old thing covered.
Stazione Centrale and Centro Storico
Part wide boulevards with ornate achitecture, part Roman alleys, Naples’s Centro Storico has a history that is palpable.
NAPOLI SOTTERANEA (UNDERGROUND NAPLES)
P. San Gaetano 68
ANCIENT ROME
081 29 69 44 www.napolisotterranea.org
Get down and dirty 35m below the city exploring ancient Greek aqueducts, World War II bomb shelters, and more. Visitors wander through passageways, grottoes, and catacombs, and while most of the tunnels are cavernous and well lit, the last part of the tour has patrons shimmying through a tiny tunnel in the rock with only candles illuminating the way.
Take V. Tribunali and the entrance is to the left of San Paolo Maggiore church. €9.30, students €8. 90min. tours depart every 2hr. M-F noon-4pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.
MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE
P. Museo Nazionale 19 081 29 28 23
MUSEUM, ANCIENT ROME
museoarcheologiconazionale.campaniabeniculturali.it
Even if the prospect of more archaeological specimens has no appeal for you, you’ve got to be intrigued by the more salacious stuff on display at this museum. It’s home to the ever-popular Gabinetto Segreto (“Secret Cabinet”), a trove of sexual artifacts recovered from the ash-entombed archaeological site at Pompeii. Of course, the entire museum is not pornographic—heck, some of it’s even good for kids—as it contains the most significant collection of artifacts from the nearby towns that were destroyed by Vesuvius’s famed eruption.
For details on Naples map, click here
Cavour. Turn right from the station and walk 2 blocks. €10, EU citizens ages 18-24 €5, under 18 and over 65 free. Open M 9am-7:30pm, W-Su 9am-7:30pm.
CAPPELLA SAN SEVERO
V. de Sanctis 19
CHURCH, MUSEUM
081 55 18 470 www.museosansevero.it
Here’s one fewer church in a city full of them—this 1590 chapel has been converted to a private museum. Several remarkable 18th-century statues, of which Giuseppe Sanmartino’s Velled Christ is by far the best known, fill the corridors.
To the right when walking away from P. San Domenico Maggiore €6, ages 10-25 €4, with Artecard €5. Open M 10am-5:40pm, W-Sa 10am-5:40pm, Su 10am-1:10pm.
PIO MONTE DELLA MISERICORDIA
V. Tribunali 253
MUSEUM
081 44 69 44 www.piomontedellamisericordia.it
Life on the run was good to Caravaggio, or so it appears. After killing a man in a 1606 duel, the master became a fugitive from justice and fled to Naples, where he was commissioned to paint one of his masterpieces, The Seven Works of Mercy, for this small chapel. That painting is the centerpiece of a round nave surrounded by works of art. More hang above, in the former offices of the centuries-old charitable organization that commissioned the chapel. Works by Mattia Preti and Francesco de Mura fill several rooms, while a balcony in one office offers a superb view of Caravaggio’s work from above.
On V. Tribunali, before V. Duomo when coming from the station. €5, students €4. Open M-Tu 9am-2pm, Th-Su 9am-2pm.
PIAZZA GARIBALDI
P. Garibaldi
PIAZZA
Don’t worry about missing this piazza—it truly is a sight to behold, if not the prettiest picture to put on a postcard. P. Garibaldi is to Naples as Naples is to Italy: its most incomprehensibly chaotic outpost. Street vendors stake out their sidewalk claims like 1849 California miners, only here the Gold Rush comes from tourists’ pockets in exchange for cheap sunglasses and knockoff bags. A spider web of roads and Neopolitan drivers who won’t stop add to the disorder. Unlike the streets in much of Naples, the ones here really are lined with trash. At the end of the piazza farthest fr
om the trains, Garibaldi himself watches over the scene.
Outside Stazione Centrale and at the end of C. Umberto.
Western Naples
PALAZZO REALE
P. del Plebiscito 1
MUSEUM
081 40 05 47
Visitors can play royalty for a day wandering through the magnificent halls of this sprawling structure, once the seat of Bourbon kings and Spanish viceroys in Naples. Wander through artwork-filled rooms and see—but don’t dare sit in—the velvet-draped golden throne of former kings, whose exploits are recounted in the aptly but not succinctly named fresco, The Splendor of the House of Spain and Some Episodes in the Life of Ferrante of Aragon, on the ceiling in a subsequent room. The palace is also an intellectual mecca, as it contains the 1,500,000 volume Biblioteca Nazionale, which holds carbonized scrolls from the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum. As if this palazzo wasn’t packed with enough stuff already, the Teatro di San Carlo, Europe’s oldest continuously active theater, calls the place home as well. Its acoustics are reputedly better than those of Milan’s La Scala.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 158