HOSTEL
089 87 14 92 www.hostelscalinatella.com
Helpful staff and cheap prices are the only appealing thing about an otherwise bare-bones hostel. Its location in the more secluded Atrani is a plus, though you won’t have anything near hotel-like amenities.
In P. Umberto in the center of Atrani. 4-bed dorms €25; 2-4 person private rooms €70-140.
THE GREAT OUTDOORS
Beaches are the reason most people come to Amalfi. The town’s main beach is the Marina Grande, which, though unremarkable, is well-loved and easily accessible (translation: crowded). Head around the Torre di Amalfi to neighboring Atrani, where a much quieter sandy stretch awaits. You can also try a rigorous hike through Amalfi’s stunning countryside. One of the most popular hikes connects Amalfi to Ravello through Pontone. The 2hr. uphill climb starts at the Museo della Carta. The tourist offices in both Ravello and Amalfi provide detailed hiking maps.
FOOD
Most higher-quality restaurants are located up side steps off the main streets. The local favorite dish is scialatelli (a coarsely cut pasta), often topped with excellent seafood.
BAR BIRECTO
P. Umberto I
CAFE
089 87 10 17 www.ilbirecto.com
You’ve had pizza, gelato, and beer before—the first two are practically Italy’s middle names—but finding them on the cheap, especially in Amalfi’s touristy streets, is another story. So Bar Birecto’s happy hour combo (all the above for €5) is nothing less than spectacular.
In Atrani. From Amalfi, walk 10min. along V. Pantaleone Comite overlooking the waterfront; after the tunnel, head down the circular ramp on the right into Atrani’s centro. Gelato €2-3.50. Pizza €4-6. Primi €5-7. Beer €2.50-6. Cocktails €4-5. Open daily 7am-2am. Happy hour 3-7pm.
TRATTORIA E PIZZERIA DA MEMÉ
Salita Marino Sebaste 8
RISTORANTE
089 83 04 549
This family restaurant is set back away from Amalfi’s beach going crowds. Locals gather at small tables scattered on stone steps leading to the fresh interior. Though the brick-oven pizza is a real steal, their specialty is homemade pasta topped with fresh seafood.
Walk up V. Lorenzo d’Amalfi from P. Duomo. Look for signs on the left of the street and turn up the stairs. Cover €1.50. Primi €6.50-15; secondi €8-15. Open in summer daily noon-3pm and 6:30pm-midnight; in fall, winter, and spring Tu-Su noon-3pm and 6:30pm-midnight.
PIZZA EXPRESS
V. Pietro Capuano 46
PIZZERIA
Pop into this tiny joint for the best prices and quickest service in town. Its hole-in-the-wall status, however, means you’ll have to head elsewhere with your goods.
From P. Duomo, walk up V. Lorenzo d’Amalfi and continue as it becomes V. Pietro Capuano. Pizza €2.50-5, slices €1-1.50. Calzones €4. Open in summer daily 9am-10pm; in fall, winter, and spring M-Th 9am-10pm, Sa-Su 9am-10pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: The Azienda Autonoma Soggiorno e Turismo di Amalfi. (C. delle Repubbliche Marinare 27, through the courtyard. 089 87 11 07 www.amalfitouristoffice.it 5min. from P. Flavio Gioia, in the direction of Atrani. Open M-Sa 9am-1pm and 2-6pm, Su 9am-1pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: Carabinieri. (V. Casamare 19 089 87 10 22 To the left of V. delle Cartiere’s start, on the way to the Museo della Carta.) Police. (In P. Municipio 089 87 16 33 Around the corner from Tourist Office.)
• HOSPITALS/MEDICAL SERVICES: Guardia Medica (V. Casamare before the Carabinieri 089 87 14 49).
bay of buses
To get around Sorrento and the Amafi Coast, buses are your friend. Tickets work on a system where you buy them for a given amount of time, and then are entitled to unlimited rides within that timeframe. Tickets are also valid for EAVBUS service within Sorrento, and the Circumvesuviana trains. A 45min. ticket costs €2.40, 90min. €3.60, 24hr. €7.20, and a 3-day pass €18.
Getting There
By Bus
Amalfi is best reached by blue SITA buses which run up and down the coast (089 87 35 89 www.sitabus.it). Buses arrive in and depart from P. Flavio Gioia near the port. By Boat
Ferries and hydrofoils (docks beside the bus stop) are a more expensive option, but provide nice views and service some places buses don’t reach. Metro del Mare (199 60 07 00 www.metrodelmare.net) runs ferries to Naples ( €14-15. 2hr.; 6 per day; from Naples 8:25-9:20am, 3:10pm, and 5:20pm, from Positano 8:35am-5:40pm.), and Sorrento ( €11. 1hr.; 4-5 per day; from Sorrento 9:30am-1:15pm and 6:05pm; from Amalfi 8:35am, noon, 1:50pm, 5pm, 5:40pm.).
ravello
089
If the Amalfi Coast is a house, Ravello is the attic a lot of visitors don’t see but actually stores much of the coolest stuff. This tiny town sits quite literally above all of Amalfi’s coastal cities and offers phenomenal views down on them. It has beautiful gardens, elegant villas, and a classical music festival that makes you think the place might be heaven itself (it certainly has enough altitude to make you wonder). Come here to get away from the bustle—everything from the music to the older crowds begs you to slow down.
ORIENTATION
Ravello is a small hilltop town, easily walkable in an hour. After getting off the bus at Via G. Boccaccio, walk through the tunnel into Piazza Duomo. From there, a few main streets, including Via Roma and Via della Francesca (headed for Villa Cimbrone), branch off, leading to stunning views and Ravello’s outdoor sights.
SIGHTS
Like the aforementioned attic, Ravello packs a lot of cool stuff into a small space. If you don’t want to go the more cultural route, consider doing some hiking around the area. Routes are well marked and fairly easy.
VILLA RUFOLO
P. Duomo
GARDENS
089 85 76 21 www.villarufolo.it
These grounds are so stunning that they inspired Richard Wagner: it was in his honor that the town initiated its classical music festival. The villa’s lands, once the possession of Ravello’s wealthiest family, feature a cloister and the Torre Maggiore (visible from outside the walls), but the natural beauty is its most obvious and pleasing element. A garden full of diverse and rare flora complements the blue seascape gleaming below.
Right off P. Duomo. €5, under 12 and over 65 €3. Open daily 9am-9pm.
FOOD
The restaurants in musical Ravello serve up some seriously delicious food that’ll have you singing their praises, but you may end up singing the blues when the bill arrives—things here aren’t cheap.
CUMPÀ COSIMO
V. Roma 44/46
RISTORANTE
089 85 71 56
After 81 years of business, this family-run trattoria has carved itself a spot in Ravello’s cliffs and in the hearts of its residents. Rich crepes with ham and cheese are a family specialty (€11), but for those who can’t make up their mind, the testing plate (€15) may be the better choice.
Down V. Roma, just past the tourist office. Primi €9-15; secondi €9-40. Open Mar-Sept daily noon-3:30pm and 6:30-10:30pm; Oct-Feb Tu-Su noon-3:30pm and 6:30-10:30pm.
RISTORANTE PIZZERIA VITTORIA
V. dei Rufolo 3
RISTORANTE
089 85 79 47 www.ristorantepizzeriavittoria.it
For a twist on the old pie, try the 0.5m pizza “plank,” with your choice of three toppings (€18). The inner garden’s small tables may barely accommodate the giant-sized entree, but with a friend, you’ll have no trouble finishing it off.
From P. Duomo, head out onto V. dei Rufolo for 2min. Cover €2. Pizza €5-9. Primi €9-12; secondi €15-18. Open daily 12:15-3pm and 7:15-11pm.
FESTIVALS
RAVELLO FESTIVAL
P. Duomo 7
SUMMER
089 85 84 22 www.ravellofestival.com
As if the view wasn’t enough, Ravello goes and gives us one of the world’s largest classical music festivals each summer. If classical music’s your thing, you’ll probably
be in heaven. If it’s not, you can just look at the view. Inspired by an 1880 visit here by Richard Wagner, the festival now encompasses dance and art shows, as well as remarkable concerts in the Villa Rufolo gardens.
Most performances take place in Villa Rufolo gardens, although the reach of the festival extends over the whole town. Concert tickets €20-70. Festival runs July-Sept. Ticket office open daily May-Sept 10am-8pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: Azienda Autonoma Soggioro e Turismo di Ravello provides free maps of the town and surrounding area (including hiking maps), information on the Ravello Festival, and hotel and restaurant listings. (V. Roma 18 089 85 70 96 www.ravellotime.it A 2min. walk from P. Duomo. Open daily 9:30am-1pm and 2-6pm.)
• INTERNET: Bar Calce provides internet and Wi-Fi. (V. Boccaccio 11 089 85 71 30 Beside SITA bus stop. Cash only. €1.50 per 15min., €5 per hr. Discounts on internet if you buy food. Open daily 8:30am-1:30pm and 3:30-10pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: Carabinieri. (V. Rogadeo 1 089 85 71 50 At the end of V. Roma, make a right.) Polizia Locale. (P. Fontana Moresca 089 85 74 98 At the end of Vle. Gioacchino D’Anna.)
Getting There
Ravello is a 25min. ride from Amalfi on a blue SITA bus. Buses arrive and leave from the end of V. Giovanni Boccaccio regularly. ( Every 10-30min. 5:45am-12:25am.) Alternatively, hike 1hr. up fairly even stairs from Atrani (through Castiglione and Scala) or 2hr. from Amalfi (through Pontone).
essentials
entrance requirements
• PASSPORT: Required of any citizens, of anywhere.
• VISA: Required of non-EU citizens staying longer than 90 days.
• WORK PERMIT : Required of all non-EU citizens planning to work in Italy.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP
Time Differences
Italy is 1hr. ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and observes Daylight Saving Time. This means that it is 6hr. ahead of New York City, 9hr. ahead of Los Angeles, 1hr. ahead of the British Isles, 8hr. in Northern Hemisphere summer and 10hr. in Northern Hemisphere winter behind Sydney, and, in the same fashion, 10hr./12hr. behind New Zealand. Don’t get confused and call your parents while it’s actually 4am their time! Note that Italy changes to Daylight Savings Time on different dates from some other countries, so sometimes, though not often, the difference will be one hour different from what is stated here.
MONEY
Tipping And Bargaining
In Italy, as in the rest of Europe, tips of 5-10% are customary, particularly in restaurants. Italian waiters won’t cry if you don’t leave a tip—just get ready to ignore the pangs of your conscience later on. Taxi drivers expect the same kind of tip, but lucky for you alcoholics, it is unusual to tip in bars. Bargaining is appropriate in markets and other more informal settings, though in regular shops it is inappropriate. Hotels will often offer lower prices to people who arrive looking for a room that night, so you will often be able to find a bed cheaper than what is officially quoted.
Taxes
The Value Added Tax (VAT; imposto sul valore aggiunta, or IVA) is a sales tax levied in EU countries. Foreigners making any purchase over €155 are entitled to an additional 20% VAT refund. Some stores take off 20% on-site. Others require that you fill out forms at the customs desk upon leaving the EU and send receipts from home within six months. Not all storefront “Tax-Free” stickers imply an immediate, on-site refund, so ask before making a purchase.
SAFETY AND HEALTH
General Advice
In any type of crisis, the most important thing to do is stay calm. Your country’s embassy abroad is usually your best resource in an emergency; registering with that embassy upon arrival in the country is a good idea.
Local Laws and Police
In Italy, you will mainly encounter two types of boys in blue: the polizia (113) and the carabinieri (112). The polizia are a civil force under the command of the Ministry of the Interior, whereas the carabinieri fall under the auspices of the Ministry of Defense and are considered a military force. Both, however, generally serve the same purpose—to maintain security and order in the country. In the case of attack or robbery, both will respond to inquiries or desperate pleas for help.
Drugs and Alcohol
Needless to say, illegal drugs are best avoided altogether, particularly when traveling in a foreign country. In Italy, just like almost everywhere else in the world, drugs including marijuana, cocaine, and heroin are illegal, and possession or other drug-related offenses will be harshly punished.
If you carry prescription drugs, bring copies of the prescriptions as well as a note from your doctor, and have them accessible at international borders.
The legal drinking age in Italy is (drumroll please) 16. Remember to drink responsibly and to never drink and drive. Doing so is illegal and can result in a prison sentence, not to mention early death. The legal blood alcohol content (BAC) for driving in Italy is under 0.05%, significantly lower than the US limit of 0.08%.
Specific Concerns
Travelers with Disabilities
Those in wheelchairs should be aware that travel in Italy will sometimes be extremely difficult. Many cities predate the wheelchair—and sometimes it seems even the wheel—by several centuries and thus pose unique challenges to disabled travelers. Venice is particularly difficult to navigate in a wheelchair given its narrow streets and numerous bridges (many with steps). Be aware that while an establishment itself may be wheelchair-accessible, getting to the front door in a wheelchair might be virtually impossible. Accessible Italy (+378 941 111 www.accessibleitaly.com) is an organization that offers advice to tourists of limited mobility heading to Italy, with tips offered on subjects ranging from finding accessible accommodations to organizing wheelchair rental.
Natural Disasters
Italy is liable to occasional earthquakes and volcanic eruptions (see Pompeii or Herculaneum ). If Vesuvius decides to become active during your trip (this could actually happen), your best resource will be your country’s embassy.
italy 101
CUSTOMS AND ETIQUETTE
Undeniably a friendly bunch, Italians do have their own ways of doing things. Italians place a lot of emphasis on first impressions, so don’t get yourself into a mi scusi situation. When meeting someone for the first time, a handshake is the way to go—air kissing (left side first!) generally comes with a little more familiarity. The Italian people are known to stand pretty close, so get ready to readjust your personal space boundaries. When it comes to clothing, Italians find having una bella figura, or a good image, very important and tend to value quality over quantity. They dress more formally, more frequently than Americans. Women should be warned that short skirts and shorts are slightly more risqué in Italy than America—revealing tops are a little less so.
facts and figures
• AREA: 116,400 sq. miles
• POPULATION: 58 million
• REGISTERED CATHOLICS: 51.6 million
• ACTIVE VOLCANOES: 3
• MONEY THROWN INTO TREVI FOUNTAIN DAILY: €30,000
• ANNUAL WINE CONSUMPTION PER CAPITA: 26 gallons
• ANNUAL BREAD CONSUMPTION PER CAPITA: 183 pounds
• FIFA WORLD CUP WINS: 4
• TEENAGE MUTANT NINJA TURTLES NAMESAKES: 4
At meals, Italian etiquette is not so very different from the American—at home, courses are served one by one and passed around the table, and at restaurants, the waiter should bring all dishes at once. What you may not be used to are the mealtimes: lunch is usually served anywhere from 1pm to 3pm, and dinner can be as late as 10pm, but hey, at least it’s not Spain.
FOOD AND DRINK
If you’re headed to Italy, it is not unlikely that one of the highlights of your trip will come in a culinary form: people have been known to visit Italy just for the food. Whether you’re enjoying wine (from the number one exporter in the world) or the internationally famous pasta, you’re sure to be impres
sed by the local fare.
The first meal of the day in Italy generally isn’t anything too elaborate: la colazione may consist simply of coffee and a cornetto (croissant). Lunch (il pranzo) can go either way: in rural regions you may find it to be a hugely elaborate affair that precedes a nap and separates the two halves of the workday. However, most Italians will just grab a simple panino or salad. The last meal of the day, la cena, is generally the most important, and starts at approximately 8pm. It can continue through most of evening, seeing as it may contain any or all of the following courses: an antipasto (appetizer), a primo piatto (starchy first course like pasta or risotto), a secondo piatto (meat or fish), a contorno (vegetable side dish), a dolce (dessert), a caffè (espresso), and often an after-dinner liqueur.
POTENT POTABLES
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 162