MUSEUM
020 57 052 00 www.vangoghmuseum.nl
We think this may be the best museum in Amsterdam—unfortunately, so do a lot of other people. The lines can get pretty painful, so to avoid them, reserve tickets on the museum’s website or arrive around 10:30am or 4pm. By all means, don’t let the fear of crowds deter you: this museum is absolutely worth the wait. Van Gogh was an artist for only about 10 years, yet he left a remarkable legacy of paintings and drawings—most of which are owned by this museum. The exhibit is arranged in chronological order, and wall plaques do an excellent job of describing and analyzing each phase of Van Gogh’s life. On the ground floor, you’ll find works from the French Barbizon School and the Dutch Hague School, both of which were influential to Van Gogh’s early development. The next floor up contains the bulk of Van Gogh’s works. His early phase is exemplified by dark, gloomy works like the Potato Eaters and Skull of a Skeleton with Burning Cigarette. After moving to Paris and becoming more involved in the modern art movement there, Van Gogh began to experiment with a different, brighter tone. Some clearly show the influence of the late 19th-century Orientalism craze and the period’s popular Japanese woodblock prints. Others reflect his friendships with Modernist painters like Paul Gauguin (more on him and others later). The eye-catching works in this later period include paintings like Bedroom at Arles (undergoing restoration at the time of press) with its bright impasto hues and the delicate Branches of an Almond Tree in Blossom. It’s particularly poignant to track the theme of Van Gogh’s descent into depression and suicide which threads throughout the commentary accompanying the paintings.
The second floor contains works from the Mesdag Museum, one of Holland’s earliest museums of modern art whose collection is now in the hands of the Van Gogh Museum. More works by the Barbizon and Hague schools are also on display here. While you won’t find any blockbuster names, the works are incredibly diverse and provide a helpful overview of Impressionism’s precursors. One more flight up, works of Van Gogh’s French contemporaries are displayed, with some of Van Gogh’s works hanging among them to emphasize their connection. There are lovely works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Gauguin, Renoir, Manet, Seurat, and Pissarro. Following these, works by artists influenced by Van Gogh, such as Derain and Picasso are featured. Finally, a small exhibition on Symbolism explains what besides Impressionism was going on in the French art world of the 19th century. Temporary traveling exhibitions fill an adjacent space. All in all, the museum presents a remarkable concentration of top-quality art in an accessible dose.
Tram #2, 3, 5, or 12 to Van Baerlestraat. Walk 1 block up Paulus Potterstraat. €14, under 18 and with Museumjaarkaart free. Open M-Th 10am-6pm, F 10am-10pm, Sa-Su 10am-6pm.
RIJKSMUSEUM
Jan Luijkenstraat 1
MUSEUM
020 67 470 00 www.rijksmuseum.nl
If something feels familiar when you see the Rijksmuseum for the first time, don’t be surprised: the palatial building was designed by Pierre Cuypers, the architect responsible for Centraal Station. The museum has been under construction for years and, at the time of writing, plans to fully reopen in 2013. For now, highlights of the collection are on display in the Philips Wing. As the national museum of both history and art, the Rijksmuseum holds vast stores of art and artifacts from the Middle Ages through the 19th century, a comprehensive exhibit on Dutch history, a collection of Asian art, and an enormous selection of furniture, Delftware, silver, and decorative objects (including two detailed dollhouses that probably cost more than many student apartments). Some of this stuff is temporarily on loan to other European museums, but a good cross-section remains in the Philips Wing on the ground floor. Here, the museum tells the story of the Netherlands as it grew from Dutch Republic to world power, commanding a fair share of the seas and international trade. However, the real heart of the museum is the art on the floor above, where the outstanding Dutch paintings of the Golden Age are housed. Numerous still lifes (cheese figures prominently, typical Dutch), landscapes, and portraits set the tone for 17th-century Dutch art, reflecting the trends and culture of the history lesson on the first floor. Next up, they pull out the big guns in a room full of deep, beautiful works by Rembrandt van Rijn and his pupils, evocative landscapes by Jacob van Ruisdael, and four luminous paintings by Vermeer, including The Milkmaid. A whole room is devoted to the Night Watch, probably Rembrandt’s most famous painting, which depicts a military company on a gargantuan scale. Finally, a spot for temporary exhibits often connects these early Dutch masters to more modern painters. A recent show displayed the influence 17th-century Dutch painters exerted on the Spanish Modernist Joan Miró.
Tram #2 or 5 to Hobbemastraat. Or tram #7 or 10 to Spiegelgracht. Museum is directly across the canal. €12.50, under 18 and with Museumjaarkaart free. Open daily 9am-6pm.
VONDELPARK
Vondelpark
PARK
One hundred and twenty acres of rolling streams, leafy trees, and inviting grass—in the summer, at least—make Vondelpark central Amsterdam’s largest and most popular open space. Founded in the 1880s to provide a place for walking and riding, the park is now a hangout for skaters, senior citizens, stoners, soccer players, sidewalk acrobats, and more. Head here on the first sunny day of the spring and you’ll see the whole city out in full force. The park is named after Joost van den Vondel, a 17th-century poet and playwright often called the Dutch Shakespeare. Not only is Vondelpark a great outdoor space, but it also has some excellent cafes, a weekly group roller skate that leaves every Friday at 8pm in front of the Filmmuseum, and an open-air theater (www.openluchttheater.nl) with free music and theater performances in the summer. If you’re looking for a different sort of outdoor entertainment, be happy to know that it was determined in 2008 that having sex would be legal in Vondelpark—provided it wasn’t taking place near the playground. Local police, however, decided that they wouldn’t let this fly. We’re not too sure what the law’s status is today, so we recommend playing it safe and exhibiting restraint (or letting us know what happens if you try taking advantage of the 2008 measure). Even without a bit of afternoon delight, you can still spend a delightful afternoon here taking a break from the rest of the city.
Tram #2, 3, 5, or 12 to Van Baerlestraat. Walk down Van Baerlestraat to the bridge over the park and take the stairs down.
MAX EUWEPLEIN
Max Euweplein
SQUARE
www.maxeuweplein.net
This small square tucked in the corner of a space dominated by megabar patios remains the heart of the Leidseplein. Somewhat inexplicably, the inscription above the pillars of the main entrance to the square reads Homo sapiens non urinat in ventum (“A wise man does not piss into the wind”)—perhaps a useful reminder to the barflies of the Leidseplein. The sight to be seen is a large chessboard with oversized pieces (Max Euwe was a famous Dutch chess master), generally presided over by a cluster of grizzled old men as younger chess enthusiasts eagerly watch every move. The square occasionally plays host to live music and dance performances.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Facing the ABN-Amro bank, make a left along Weteringschans; the square will be on your right.
De Pijp
De Pijp’s sights are of a decidedly different variety than those in nearby Museumplein. Rather than staring at paintings you’ll never have a chance to own, haggle for wares at Albert Cuypmarkt, and instead of contemplating what life would be like in the Dutch Golden Age, find out what it’s like being a bottle of beer at the Heineken Experience.
SARPHATIPARK
Sarphatipark
PARK
In the 1860s, Amsterdam’s chief architect was convinced that the center of the city would move south, and that this spot in De Pijp (then just marshlands and a windmill or two) would be the ideal place for Centraal Station. We all know how that one turned out (though one wonders what would have happened to the Red Light District if visitors couldn’t stumble straight into it from the station). Not
one to be deterred, the architect decided to build a park instead. And not a bad one, either. Sarphatipark is fairly small, but its crisscrossing paths and central monument give it a genteel, 19th-century feel. It’s rarely as crowded as Vondelpark, so you can have more grassy sunbathing space to yourself. The monument commemorates the same guy who gave his name to the park, the Jewish philanthropist and doctor Samuel Sarphati. Under the Nazi occupation, his statue was removed and the park was renamed for a Hegelian philosopher; one of the first acts after the liberation was to restore the park to its rightful name.
Tram #3 or 25 to 2e Van der Helstraat.
HEINEKEN EXPERIENCE
Stadhouderskade 78
MUSEUM
020 52 392 22 www.heinekenexperience.com
Beer hasn’t been made here since 1988 (if you want an actual brewery tour, check out Brouwerij ’t IJ), which is why this is an “experience.” And what an experience, indeed. Four floors of holograms, multimedia exhibits, and virtual reality machines tell you everything you’ll ever want to know about the green-bottled beer. We particularly enjoyed the ride that replicates the experience of actually becoming a Heineken beer. (There’s something very Zen-alcoholic about the whole “in order to enjoy the beer you must BE the beer” idea.) And don’t worry—it would be inhumane to be surrounded with all of that beer-related information without actually letting you drink, so the ticket includes two oat sodas of your very own. Lines can be long in the afternoon, so the best time to arrive is before 1pm. Yeah, you’ll be drinking early, but we won’t judge. It is Amsterdam, after all.
Tram #16 or 24 to Stadhouderskade, or tram #4, 7, 10, or 25 to Weterincircuit. Cross the canal and you’ll see the building. €15. Open daily 11am-7pm, last entry 5:30pm.
Jodenbuurt and Plantage
Jodenbuurt and Plantage are filled with some of the city’s lesser-known but no less interesting museums. Due to its history as the Jewish Quarter, Jodenbuurt has its share of museums focusing on Jewish culture and history. Spacious Plantage offers the open spaces of the Botanical Gardens and Artis Zoo. The phenomenal Brouwerij ’t IJ can be found north, by the water.
VERZETSMUSEUM (DUTCH RESISTANCE MUSEUM)
Plantage Kerklaan 61
MUSEUM
020 62 025 35 www.verzetsmuseum.org
Nazi Germany occupied the Netherlands for five years during WWII, and this museum is designed to present the various responses of Dutch people during that time to the question “What do we do?” The permanent exhibition begins in the 1930s, painting a picture of what life was like during that time and building a backdrop to the traditions and conflicts within Dutch society. In the early days of the occupation, many struggled with the decision of whether to adapt to their relatively unchanged life under Nazi rule or to openly resist the occupiers. As time went on, the persecution of Jews, gypsies, and gays intensified, and numerous political and social regulations were put into place; as a result, the forces of the resistance grew. This museum does a masterful job of combining the ordinary and the extraordinary by placing visitors in the shoes of average Dutch citizens and also sharing the stories of individuals who risked (and often lost) their lives to publish illegal newspapers, hide Jews, or pass information to Allied troops. A smaller portion of the exhibit details the effects of the war on Dutch colonies in East Asia.
Tram #9 or 14 to Plantage Kerklaan. Across from Artis Zoo. €7.50, ages 7-15 €4, under 7 and with Museumjaarkaart free. Open M 11am-5pm, Tu-F 10am-5pm, Sa-Su 11am-5pm.
JOODS HISTORISCH MUSEUM (JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM)
Nieuwe Amstelstraat 1
MUSEUM
020 53 103 10 www.jhm.nl
Four 17th- and 18th-century Ashkenazi synagogues were incorporated to form this museum dedicated to the history and culture of the Jews of the Netherlands. One part of the museum highlights the religious life of the community using artifacts (including a number of beautifully decorated Torahs), explanations of Jewish traditions, and videos that recount personal anecdotes. Above this section, an exhibit details the history of the community from 1600-1900, from the first settlements in Amsterdam under the city’s unusually early religious tolerance to the struggles Jews faced in gaining full civil and political liberties. Paintings and documents detail different aspects of Dutch Jewish life. Particularly noteworthy is the small display on Spinoza, including an early copy of the Tractatus Theologico-Politicus. The next part of the museum chronicles 1900 to the present, showing the growth of the Jewish community up until WWII, the persecution and devastation of the war period, and then the rebuilding efforts after the war’s end.
Trams #9 or 14 or Waterlooplein. €9, students and seniors €6, ages 13-17 €4.50, under 13 and with Museumjaarkaart free. Open daily 11am-5pm.
TROPENMUSEUM
Linnaeusstraat 2
MUSEUM
020 56 882 00 www.tropenmuseum.nl
In a palatial building that is part of the Koninklijk Instituut voor de Tropen (Dutch Royal Institute of the Tropics), this museum provides an anthropological look at disparate “tropical” regions from the distant past to today. A running theme throughout the exhibits is the complicated relationship between Europe and these areas during the rise and fall of Western imperialism. From Thai bridal jewelry to African presidential folk cloths, an astounding collection of cultural artifacts is on display. An extensive portion of the first floor is devoted to the Dutch colonial experience in Indonesia (from the perspective of both colonizers and colonized), from which a large part of the museum’s collection was initially drawn.
Tram #9, 10, or 14 to Alexanderplein. Cross the canal and walk left along Mauritskade. €9, students €5, under 18 and with Museumjaarkaart free. Open daily 10am-5pm.
BROUWERIJ ’T IJ
Funenkade 7
BREWERY
020 62 283 25 www.brouwerijhetij.nl
What could be more Dutch than drinking beer at the base of a windmill? What’s even better is that the beer brewed and served here is much, much tastier than more internationally famous Dutch brands (we won’t name any names). Once a bathhouse, this building was taken over as a squat in the 1980s. Today, its brewers craft 10 different beers, some seasonal but all organic, unfiltered, and non-pasteurized. You can try a glass or three of their wares at the massive outdoor terrace of the on-site pub or at a few cafes and bars in the city. Brews range from the Zatte, a golden triple beer, to the Plzen, their pilsner, to a variety of bocks and a delicious wheat beer. If you’re at the bar, make sure to notice the long collection of bottles on the shelves—it’s one of Europe’s largest.
Tram #10 to Hoogte Kadijk or #14 to Pontanusstraat. Head toward the windmill. Beer €1.90-2. 30. Pub open daily 3-8pm. Free tours of the brewery F 4pm, Su 4pm.
MUSEUM HET REMBRANDT
Jodenbreestraat 4
MUSEUM
020 52 004 00 www.rembrandthuis.nl
Flush with success at the height of his popularity, Rembrandt van Rijn bought this massively expensive house in 1639. Twenty years later, after a decline in sales and failure to pay his mortgage, he sold the house along with his possessions. It probably sucked to be him, but his misfortune turned out to be a great boon for historians—the inventory of Rembrandt’s worldly goods taken at the time of sale meant that hundreds of years later curators were able to reconstruct his house almost exactly as it was when he lived there. Now visitors can see where Rembrandt slept, entertained guests, sold paintings, made paintings, and got attacked by his mistress after a fight over alimony (that would be in the kitchen). The most interesting rooms are those on the top floor: Rembrandt’s massive studio (with many of his original tools still there) and the room where he stored his objets d’art—armor, armadillos, and everything in between. The museum also holds a hundred-fold collection of Rembrandt’s etchings, a rotating selection of which are on display. Every 45min. on the third floor, guides reenact Rembrandt’s etching and printing techniques. An exhibition space for rotating collections of more contemporary art is attached
to the main building.
Tram #9 or 14 or Waterlooplein. €9, ages 6-17 €2.50, under 6 and with Museumjaarkaart free, with ISIC card €6. Open daily 10am-5pm.
ARTIS ZOO
Plantage Kerklaan 38-40
ZOO
020 900 278 4796 www.artis.nl
If all of Amsterdam’s culture is blowing your brain, join the animals at this zoo, one of Europe’s oldest. The sprawling complex includes an aquarium, a planetarium, and a geological museum in addition to the critters themselves. Areas are devoted to regions like the South American Pampas and the African Savannah, and all the classics like elephants, lions, leopards, giraffes, and a variety of monkeys can be found among the hundreds of species living here. Some of our favorites include the teeny black-footed penguins, playful sea lions, and Lemurland, a special island where visitors can get up close and personal with the fuzzy beasts.
Tram #9 or 14 to Plantage Kerklaan. €18.50, seniors €17, ages 3-9 €15. Open daily Apr-Oct 9am-6pm; Nov-Mar 9am-5pm. Zookeeper presentations daily 11am-3:30pm.
PORTUGEES-ISRAELIETISCHE SYNAGOGUE
Mr. Visserplein 1-3
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 167