De Pijp, Jordaan, and the Nine Streets in Canal Ring West boast the highest concentration of quality eats. De Pijp is the cheapest of the three. If you really want to conserve your cash though, Albert Heijn is the largest and most visible chain of supermarkets in the city (find your nearest location at www.ah.nl).
Oude Zijd
Zeedijk is overwhelmingly packed with restaurants of all shapes and sizes, so be careful to compare menus when selecting a place to eat, since some can be touristy rip-offs. Don’t cross the neighborhood off your list for fear of that possibility though—there are some really great places.
‘SKEK
Zeedijk 4-8
CAFE, GLOBAL
020 42 705 51 www.skek.nl
A “cultural eetcafe” where all students with ID get a 33% discount, ‘Skek prepares food that is a sort of European fusion, with options like a Greek hamburger with tzatziki mayonnaise, grilled vegetable lasagna, or salmon with lentils. This is a place that begs you to stay a while—tables are painted with whimsical fantasy board games, student art lines the walls, and live music is featured many nights. The free Wi-Fi is a draw as well.
At the beginning of Zeedijk, near Centraal Station. Appetizers €4.25-5; entrees €12.50-13.50. Did we mention the 33% student discount? Open M-Th noon-1am, F-Sa noon-3am, Su noon-1am.
LATEI
Zeedijk 143
CAFE
020 62 574 85 www.latei.net
Colorful and eccentric, Latei is filled with mismatched furniture and interesting knick-knacks—every single one of which is for sale. Save your money for the simple and impeccable food, though: sandwiches are made with artisan bread and the cafe’s own olive oil and filled with everything from chorizo to hummus and grilled eggplant. Indian cuisine makes a guest appearance at dinner Thursday to Saturday nights.
Nieuwmarkt. Sandwiches €3-5. Open M-W 8am-6pm, Th-F 8am-10pm, Sa 9am-10pm, Su 11am-6pm.
BIRD
Zeedijk 72-74
THAI
020 62 014 42 www.thai-bird.nl
Zeedijk might be considered Amsterdam’s Chinatown, but the best Asian restaurant is arguably Thai eatery Bird. Seriously, this is the most authentic Thai food you can get outside the Land of Smiles. Let’s Go really likes their green curry.
Nieuwmarkt. Snack bar cash only. Entrees €11-14, at snack bar €9-11. Open daily 5-11pm. Snack bar open daily 2-10pm.
Red Light District
Gluttony is one of the few sins you can’t indulge in the Red Light District. There are some good, reasonably-priced cafes, but if you’re looking for a quality meal, head next door to the Oude Zijd.
DE BAKKERSWINKEL
Warmoesstraat 69
CAFE
020 48 980 00 www.debakkerswinkel.nl
As cute and homey as the surrounding streets are neon and sordid. In the large pastel dining room you can enjoy terrific quiches, breakfast menus, or homemade sourdough bread and cheese. High tea is also available, replete with different combinations of scones, sweets, and sandwiches.
From Centraal Station, walk down Damrak, make a left onto Oudebrugsteeg, and then a right onto Warmoesstraat. Sandwiches €4. Slice of quiche €5.20. Breakfast menus €5.95-12.25. High teas €13.95-40. Open Tu-F 8am-6pm, Sa 8am-5pm, Su 10am-5pm.
THEEHUIS HIMALAYA
Warmoesstraat 56
CAFE, VEGETARIAN
020 62 608 99 www.himalaya.nl
At the back of a New Age-y bookstore, this surprisingly large cafe with welcoming staff and a tranquil canal view offers an all-vegetarian menu with many vegan options. Choose from a selection of sandwiches, bagels, and desserts or try the special vegan Himalaya burger. This may be the one place where you can find inner peace in the Red Light District (without paying a little extra).
From Centraal Station, walk down Damrak, make a left onto Oudebrugsteeg, and then a left onto Warmoesstraat. Sandwiches and bagels €3-5. Burgers €7.95. Open M noon-6pm, Tu-W 10am-6pm, Th 10am-8pm, F-Sa 10am-6pm, Su noon-5:30pm.
Nieuwe Zijd
Eating in the Nieuwe Zijd is less than ideal: it tends to be packed with overpriced, low-quality tourist traps. Try the southern half of Spuistraat or head to La Place for a quick lunch.
LA PLACE
Kalverstraat 203
CAFETERIA
020 62 201 71 www.laplace.nl
In most parts of Amsterdam, it’s often the cute cafes that have the best informal food. In the Nieuwe Zijd, many of those cafes will try to charge you €10 for a sandwich, so embrace the rampant commercialism in the area and head to this cafeteria inside the giant Vroom and Dreesmann department store. You’ll be rewarded by a vast buffet of pizzas, pastas, salads, sandwiches, meats, and pastries for incredibly reasonable prices.
Tram #4, 9, 14, 16, 24, or 25 to Muntplein. You’ll see the giant V and D store; enter through the Kalverstraat door; the entrance to the cafeteria is on the left. Sandwiches €3-5. Pizzas €7. Open M 11am-8pm, Tu-W 10am-8pm, Th 10am-9pm, F-Sa 10am-8pm, Su noon-8pm.
CAFE SCHUIM
Spuistraat 189
CAFE
020 63 893 57
With bright, abstract shapes on the wall and massive padded-leather chairs surrounding small tables, this artsy spot is the antithesis of the McDonald’s a few blocks away. Try sandwiches like the club with smoked chicken and avocado at lunch, or their creative pastas, steak, and entrees at dinner.
Tram #1, 2, 5, or 14 to Dam/Paleisstraat. Walk down Paleisstraat toward Singel and make a left onto Spuistraat. Sandwiches €4-7. Pastas €9.50-12.50. Beer from €2.20. Open M-Th noon-1am, F-Sa noon-3am, Su 1pm-1am.
RISTORANTE CAPRESE
Spuistraat 259-261
ITALIAN
020 62 000 59
The service here is leisurely at best, but that just makes it feel more authentically Italian. With the massive wall mural of a Neapolitan bay view, you might even be convinced that you’re a few countries to the south (at least in the summer).
Tram #1, 2, or 5 to Spui/Nieuwezijds Voorburgwall. Cross over to Spuistraat and make a right. Pastas €9-14. Meat entrees €18-22. House wine from €4 per glass. Open daily noon-11pm.
Canal Ring West and Scheepvaartbuurt
This is one of the best places for high-quality eats in Amsterdam; restaurants in this neighborhood take food and style very seriously. The Nine Streets area is especially packed with hip and delicious cafes. To the north, Haarlemmerstraat and Haarlemmerdijk are lined with restaurants, from cheap sandwich joints to upscale bistros.
OPEN CAFE-RESTAURANT
Westerdoksplein 20
FRENCH, ITALIAN
020 62 010 10 www.open.nl
This restaurant inhabits one of the coolest locations in Amsterdam—a renovated segment of a train bridge perched high above the waters between Westerdok and the IJ. The Mediterranean-style food is elegant, with dishes like lamb ravioli, stewed oxtail, and sea-bass salad. Conveniently, most dishes come in both half and full portions, so you can enjoy the view without breaking the bank.
From Haarlemmerstraat, walk from Korte Prinsengracht through the tunnel under the train tracks and then cross the bridge; you can’t miss the restaurant on your right. Sandwiches and salads €7-14. Half-entrees €7-14, full €14-22. Open daily 10am-10:30pm.
FOODISM
Oude Leliestraat 8
SANDWICHES, ITALIAN
020 42 751 03 www.foodism.nl
This lovely little joint is bursting with color, from the lime green walls to the glossy cherry tables. The food is even brighter: choose from a menu of creative sandwiches like chicken and mango chutney or hummus with alfalfa or go for one of the daily homemade pastas. The baked goods are sinfully delicious.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 13, 14, or 17 to Dam/Radhuisstraat. Continue on Radhuisstraat and make a right on the far side of the Singel; it will be on your left. Sandwiches €5.50. Pastas €10-12. Open M-Sa noon-10pm, Su 1-6pm.
HARLEM: DRINKS AND SOUL FOOD
Haarlemmerstraat 77
AMERICAN
No, they didn’t leave out a vowel: this place is the Dutch outpost of good ol’ American soul food. Here, you can indulge your culinary homesickness without the shame of being seen in a Burger King. Fill up on a variety of club sandwiches, soups, and salads at lunch or sup on dishes like macaroni and cheese and fried chicken at dinner.
Make a right when leaving Centraal Station, cross the Singel, and walk down Haarlemmerstraat a few blocks; Harlem’s on the corner with Herenmarkt. Sandwiches €5-8. Entrees €12-18. Open M-Th 10am-1am, F-Sa 10am-3am, Su 10am-1am. Kitchen closes 10pm.
‘T KUYLTJE
Gasthuismolensteeg 9
SANDWICHES
020 62 010 45 www.kuyltje.nl
A no-frills takeout spot that makes tremendous, filling Belgian broodjes. The proprietor used to be a butcher, a fact which is immediately evident from the fresh and flavorful meat products—no prepackaged cold cuts here.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 13, 14, or 17 to Dam/Radhuisstraat. Continue down Radhuisstraat and make a left at the Singel. Sandwiches €3.50. Open M-F 7am-4pm.
I QUATTRO GATTI
Hartenstraat 3
ITALIAN
020 42 145 85
This tiny restaurant serves up Italian dishes exquisitely made by a native-born chef. Menus change to reflect seasonal ingredients, and everything is homemade. It boasts a great wine selection.
Tram #13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. Make a right after crossing Keizersgracht and then a left onto Hartenstraat. Reservations strongly recommended. Entrees €12-20. Open Tu-Sa 6-10pm.
Central Canal Ring and Rembrandtplein
You’ll eat well in the Central Canal Ring, where restaurants are affordable, tourist crowds are low, and you’re never too far from Amsterdam’s major sights. Utrechtsestraat in particular boasts a high concentration of diverse restaurants. Rembrandtplein is mostly filled with enormous international restaurants and oversized cafes,but there are some good spots mixed in.
RISTORANTE PIZZERIA FIRENZE
Halvemaansteeg 9-11
ITALIAN
020 62 733 60 www.pizzeria-firenze.nl
The wine bottles sitting on every table and the murals of Italian scenery on the walls will make you feel like you’re actually in Italia. Not the world’s most gourmet pizza, but with large pies beginning at €5, no one’s complaining. Definitely one of the best values for a restaurant meal around Rembrandtplein.
Tram #9 or 14 to Rembrandtplein. Halvemaansteeg is the street to the left of the line of buildings with the giant TV screen. Pizza and pasta €5-9. Open daily 1-11pm.
VAN DOBBEN
Korte Reguliersdwarsstraat 5-9
SANDWICHES
020 62 442 00 www.eetsalonvandobben.nl
An old-school deli and cafeteria that is everything most restaurants in Rembrandtplein are not: cheap, fast, and simple. Choose from a long list of sandwiches or a more limited selection of soups, salads, and omelettes. We’re not sure how this place stays in business, seeing as how everywhere else seems to charge five times as much, but we hope they keep the magic going.
Tram #9 or 14 to Rembrandtplein. It’s on a small street, get onto Reguliersdwarsstraat and look for where the street veers off on the right. Sandwiches €2.50-4.25. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm.
BAND B LUNCHROOM
Leidsestraat 44
CAFE, SANDWICHES
020 63 815 42
It’s hard to walk by this storefront and not be drawn in by the window heaped high with pastries and muffins. The shop sells filling sandwiches that go beyond the ordinary offerings with combinations like roast beef and “citron mayonnaise” or gorgonzola and asparagus.
Tram #1, 2, or 5 to Keizersgracht. The cafe is on the southwestern corner. Sandwiches €3.50-6. Salads €6.50-7.50. Open daily 10am-6pm.
LOS PILONES
Kerkstraat 63
MEXICAN
020 32 046 51 www.lospilones.com
While popular with tourists, locals, and expats from all over, this restaurant remains steadfastly Mexican—their website is only in Spanish, and you should have seen the crowds here watching Mexico play in the World Cup. The menu is full of tacos, enchiladas, and other entrees like pollo con mole.
From Leidseplein, walk up Leidsestraat and make a right on Kerkstraat. Appetizers €3-8; entrees €15-17. Margaritas €7.25. Open Tu-Th 4pm-1am, F-Sa 4pm-2am, Su 4pm-1am.
West Of Town
Some of the quirkiest eats, most distinctive spaces, and highest-quality food can be found in these neighborhoods. In this residential area, you’re likely to be the only foreigner at the table.
RAINARAI
Prinsengracht 252
ALGERIAN
020 62 497 91 www.rainarai.nl
Algerian fare means you can count things like spicy lamb meatballs, grilled asparagus, stuffed artichokes, and curry among your options. No matter what the daily dishes are when you arrive, you won’t be disappointed—everything is delicious.
Tram #13, 14, or 17 to Westermarkt. Cross Prinsengracht and make a left. Entrees €10-14. 50. Open Tu-Su noon-10pm.
TOMATILLO
261 Overtoom
MEXICAN
020 68 330 86 www.tomatillo.nl
Tomatillo bills itself as “Tex-Mex to go,” but its crisp, clean interior and fresh ingredients set it apart from the rest of the ethnic fast food eateries along Overtoom. The food steers clear of the greasy, over-cheesiness of many gringo attempts at Mexican cuisine (though we suspect the friendly proprietors would give you extra cheese if you asked—this is the Netherlands, after all).
Tram #1 to J. P. Heijestraat. Tomatillo is a block north of Vondelpark. Burritos and tostadas €7.50-9.50. Tacos €2.75-3.50. Open Tu-Su noon-9pm.
BELLA STORIA
Bentinckstraat 28
ITALIAN
020 48 805 99 www.bellastoria.info
For people who miss their Italian granny’s home cooking (or missed out on having an Italian granny entirely), this is the place to be. It’s truly a family affair, run by a mother and her sons who chatter in Italian as they roll out dough.
Tram #10 to Van Limburg Stirumplein. Facing Limburg Stirumstraat, Bentinckstraat is on your right. Pastas €10-17. Open daily 10am-10pm.
DE VLIEGENDE SCHOTEL
Nieuwe Leliestraat 162-168
VEGETARIAN
020 62 520 41 www.vliegendeschotel.com
It’s a little unclear what aliens have to do with vegetarian cuisine (this restaurant’s name translates to “The Flying Saucer”), but we’ll let the mystery slide because this restaurant is down-to-earth even if its food is out-of-this-world good.
Tram #10 to Bloemgracht. Cross Lijnbaansgracht, make a left, and then a right onto Nieuwe Leliestraat. Entrees €11-13. Open daily 4-11:30pm.
WINKEL
Noordermarkt 43
CAFE
020 62 302 23 www.winkel43.nl
Winkel serves up a cuisine that’s hard to classify: you can get miso soup, a club sandwich, or lamb stew depending on your whim. No matter how you’re feeling, you should do as everyone else does and order the apple pie. Winkel occasionally hosts live music and dancing.
Tram #3 or 10 to Marnixplein. Cross Lijnbaangracht, walk up Westerstraat, and make a left onto the square. Entrees €6-15. Open M 7am-1am, Tu-Th 8am-1am, F 8am-3am, Sa 7am-3am, Su 10am-1am.
Museumplein and Leidseplein
This whole area can tend to be a little overpriced—Museumplein because it attracts real grown-ups and Leidseplein because it attracts drunk backbackers who don’t know better. For the best values, look for restaurants that have special set menus or daily deals, or grab a sandwich and snack from a grocery store.
CAFE VERTIGO
Vondelpark 3
CAFE, MEDITERRANEAN
020 61 230 21 www.vertigo.nl
Cafe Vertigo finds itself in a remarkable, ornate building with a seemingly endless patio that makes the place look like it should be a lot more expensive than it is. On a summer day, there’
s no better place to enjoy a sandwich and a drink (except, perhaps, for the grass of Vondelpark itself). Though the cafe sits on the edge of the park, it faces an expanse of green that will make you feel quite outside the city.
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 169