At least, that was the case until I went to research the Leidseplein. This square is renowned for its nightlife, so to make the best use of my time and the biggest dent in my list of establishments, I decided to try and research as many bars and clubs as possible in one night. My last stop was the Sugar Factory. I didn’t get there until after 1am, and the music was so good and the people so friendly that I ended up staying until closing. Exiting to the disconcertingly bright morning (it seems that during the Dutch summer it’s only really dark from 11pm-3am), my newfound Dutch pals asked me how I planned on getting home. “The tram,” I replied. They all looked at me in astonishment. “You don’t have a bike?” they asked. Somehow, in my foreign naïveté, I had assumed that people surely didn’t bring their bicycles when they went out for a night on the town. What if you get drunk? Or are wearing high heels? Or are just tired from dancing all night?
Such things, while obstacles to an ungainly and inexperienced cyclist like myself, are barely even considerations for a native Amsterdammer. Sure enough, the phalanx of people pouring out from the clubs on the Leidseplein were all headed toward the bicycle racks outside. I think that my new friends must have seen a certain wistfulness in my eyes, and they kindly offered to give me a ride home. So I perched on the back of a bike, and we zipped off along the canals in the 5am sunshine. Only if I had been eating some Gouda at the same time could I have felt more Dutch.
—Beatrice Franklin
older locals, and a smattering of tourists. The cocktail balcony provides the perfect spot to people watch, while the smoking lounge upstairs is the perfect place to...smoke. Check the website for upcoming events; it’s a safe assumption that there will be something going on Friday and Saturday nights midnight-5am.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 6, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Turn down the small street to the left of the Stadsschouwburg theater. Cover usually €8-12. Beer from €3. Cocktails €6.50. Hours vary.
WEBER
Marnixstraat 397
BAR
020 62 299 10
A bar that’s tremendously popular with young locals and a few stylish tourists alike, Weber is the place to be. Come early or late (once people have departed for the clubs) if you want to get a seat on a weekend night. Tiny, frilly red lampshades and vintage pornographic art give the place a cheeky bordello feel, which is complemented by jazzy French pop. But don’t be fooled: this bar steers clear of the tawdriness that plagues so much Amsterdam nightlife. Small balcony seating raised above the bar area and a large downstairs room are great spots to grab a drink and chat with friends.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 6, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Walk south of the square and make a right onto Marnixstraat. Beer €2.50. Spirits from €4. Open M-Th 8pm-3am, F-Sa 8pm-4am, Su 8pm-3am.
DE PIEPER
Prinsengracht 424
CAFE
020 62 647 75
One of Amsterdam’s oldest cafes, De Pieper calls a building that’s been around since the 17th century its home. The interior reflects the building’s age, with low ceilings, dark wood paneling, and Delft mugs hanging behind the bar, but De Pieper also makes a quirky nod to modernity, with strings of fairy lights and posters from performances at nearby venues. This is the perfect place to escape from the internationalism of the Leidseplein and just have a good bier like a local. It has a jovial and loyal following, especially on weekend nights.
Tram #1, 2, or 5 to Prinsengracht or #7 or 10 to Raamplein. At the corner of Prinsengracht and Leidsegracht. Beer from €2.50. Open M-Th 11am-1am, F-Sa 11am-3am.
BOURBON STREET
Leidsekruisstraat 6-8
BLUES CLUB
020 62 334 40
This is a jovial and bustling home of nightly live blues, soul, and funk. Walls are packed with memorabilia and photos from past events. At the jam nights on Monday, Tuesday, and Sunday, all are welcome to bring their own instruments and play along. (We assume that this works, because if you’re willing to haul your gear to the Leidseplein, then you’re hopefully pretty good.) Bourbon attracts large crowds of locals and tourists alike.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 6, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Make a right onto Korte Leidsedwarsstraat and Leidsekruisstraat will be on your left. Beer from €3. Open M-Th 10pm-4am, F-Sa 10pm-5am, Su 10pm-4am.
PIRATES BAR
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 129
BAR
Belly up to the bar here for some cheap grog; weekly deals have beer going for as little as €1.50. The atmosphere is perhaps a bit more frat boy than salty sea dog (though ship accoutrements abound); if you end up intersecting the Leidseplein Pub Crawl as it makes its way through this watering hole, be prepared for a lot of crowded, sweaty bumping and grinding to the Top 40, hip hop, and dance music. It’s a great place to get yourself ready for an evening of debauchery on the town.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 6, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Cover €2.50 for men, includes 1 drink. Beers around €2.50. Shots €3.50. Open M-Th 6pm-3am, F-Sa 6pm-4am, Su 6pm-3am.
De Pijp
What De Pijp does—laid-back hipster bars with good beer, good food, and good company—it does very well.
CHOCOLATE BAR
1e Van Der Helststraat 62A
BAR
020 67 576 72 www.chocolate-bar.nl
While most bars in the neighborhood have a cafe-like vibe, this place veers more toward cocktail lounge. It’s certainly not a dressy affair, but the long, glossy bar and seating area peppered with small, chic tables up the cool factor. The outdoor patio is a special place, with couches and picnic tables—a prime place to survey the De Pijp scene. On weekends, DJs spin laid-back dance tunes inside.
Tram #16 or 24 to Albert Cuypstraat. Walk 1 block down Albert Cuypstraat and make a right. Beer from €2. Cocktails €7. Open M-Th 10am-1am, F-Sa 10am-3am, Su 11am-1am.
TROUW AMSTERDAM
Wibautstraat 127
CLUB
020 46 377 88 www.trouwamsterdam.nl
This club’s not strictly in De Pijp, but just across the Amstel. Housed in the former office building of the newspaper Trouw, this complex includes a restaurant, exhibition space, and club. It’s a rather gritty, industrial-feeling space that’s extremely popular with local students. The music ranges from dubstep to electronic to house and more; check the website for specific events. It occasionally hosts after-parties that begin at 6am.
Wibautstraat. The stop is right next to the building. Or tram #3 to Wibautstraat. Walk a few blocks south on Wibautstraat. You’re looking for a giant white office building that says “Trouw” on the upper corner. Cover €10-17. Club generally open F-Sa 10:30pm-5am.
KINGFISHER
Ferdinand Bolstraat 24
BAR
020 67 123 95
One of the original bars that set the stage for the rise of cool in De Pijp, Kingfisher hasn’t let the popularity go to its head, and it remains a wonderful spot to enjoy one of their international beers and a chat in the spacious wood interior. The place is filled to the gills on weekend nights, but on a sunny afternoon, you should still be able to grab a coveted table outside.
Tram #16 or 24 to Stadhouderskade. Walk 1 block down Ferdinand Bolstraat. Beer from €2. Open M-Th 11am-1am, F-Sa 11am-3am, Su noon-1am.
Jodenbuurt and Plantage
This is not the neighborhood for rowdy nightlife. If you’re looking for a big night out, you’d do better to head to nearby Rembrandtplein or Nieuwmarkt. However, there are a few excellent laid-back local bars in the neighborhood, befitting its overall character.
DE SLUYSWACHT
Jodenbreestraat 1
BAR
020 62 576 11 www.sluyswacht.nl
This tiny, tilting 17th-century building houses the kind of bar you would expect to find on a lone seacoast, not a bustling street. The outdoor patio sits right above the canal, with giant umbrellas ready in case the weather should turn rainy. When it gets really inclement, the plain wooden interior is invitingly snug. A good selection of draft and bottled beers is available.
Tram #9 or 14 or Waterlooplei
n. Beer €2.10-4. Open M-Th 11:30am-1am, F-Sa 11:30am-3am, Su 11:30am-7pm.
HET GENOT VAN RAPENBURG
Rapenburg 16-18
BAR
020 62 231 50 www.hetgenotvanrapenburg.nl
A welcoming bar tucked away on an out-of-the-way corner of Plantage, this watering hole is populated mostly by locals from the nearby offices. Music at the bartender’s discretion—usually leaning toward relaxed British and American indie rock—add to this unfussy watering hole’s charm.
Tram #9 or 14 or Waterlooplein. Walk along Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat until it becomes Peperstraat; the bar is at the corner. Beer €2.20-4 Open M-Th 5pm-1am, F-Sa 5pm-2am, Su 5pm-1am.
ARTS AND CULTURE
Besides its stunning collection of visual arts, Amsterdam offers a whole host of cultural attractions to travelers and locals alike. The music and film scenes here rival those of any other city in Europe, and many argue that the Concertgebouw concert hall has the best acoustics in the world. Comedy shows have been increasing in popularity, and with large summer festivals held each year, you can see some wonderfully innovative theater and dance if you time your visit right.
CONCERTGEBOUW
Concertgebouwplein 2-6
MUSEUMPLEIN
020 57 305 73 www.concertgebouw.nl
Even if you don’t catch a concert here, it’s worth taking a look at this magnificent 1888 building when you’re in Museumplein. However, with some of the best acoustics in the world and a highly renowned classical ensemble, the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, this performance space is more than just a pretty sight. Some 900 concerts, primarily classical but also programs of jazz and world music, are held here each year. Free lunch concerts are held Wednesdays in the small concert hall, while even performances in the main hall have some tickets in the €20 range.
Tram #3, 5, 12, 16, or 24 to Museumplein. Varies by concert; main events generally €20-100. Ticket office open M-F 1-7pm, Sa-Su 10am-7pm.
MELKWEG
Lijnbaansgracht 234A
LIVE MUSIC
020 53 181 81 www.melkweg.nl
A legendary venue for all kinds of live music as well as clubbing.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 6, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Turn down the small street to the left of the Stadsschouwburg theater. Generally €10-30, with €3.50 monthly membership fee. Concerts usually start around 8pm or 9pm.
PARADISO
Weteringschans 6-8
LIVE MUSIC
020 62 645 21 www.paradiso.nl
Everything from big-name pop acts to experimental DJs.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 6, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Take a left onto Weteringschans. Prices vary by event; tickets usually €5-20 plus a €3 monthly membership fee. Hours vary by event.
ALTO
Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115
JAZZ
020 62 632 49 www.jazz-cafe-alto.nl
Amsterdam’s most respected jazz joint, Alto is small, dark, and cozy—as any such place should be. Look for the giant saxophone outside marking the location. With live performances every night by renowned artists, the place fills up quickly, so come early to get a seat.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 6, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Open M-Th 9pm-3am, F-Sa 9pm-4am, Su 9pm-3am. Music starts daily at 10pm.
BOOM CHICAGO
Leidseplein 12
COMEDY
020 42 301 01 www.boomchicago.nl
Boom Chicago is the place for extremely popular English-language improv comedy shows with plenty of audience participation, every night of the week.
Tram #1, 2, 5, 7, or 10 to Leidseplein. Tickets €20-25. Most shows begin 8-9pm.
SHOPPING
With shopping, as with pretty much every other aspect of life in Amsterdam, a wide range of options is at your fingertips. The Nine Streets just south of Westerkerk are packed with vintage stores and interesting boutiques. Haarlemmerstraat, in Scheepvaartbuurt, is also an up-and-coming neighborhood in terms of clothing design. For more established brands, look to Kalverstraat, with its string of international chains and large department stores. If you’re looking for something really pricey, P. C. Hooftstraat, near Museumplein, is the part of town with the big-name designers. On the other end of the spectrum, markets like Albert Cuypmarkt offer dirt-cheap and, at times, flat-out bizarre clothing and other wares.
ALBERT CUYPMARKT
Albert Cuypstraat
MARKET
Stretching almost half a mile along the length of Albert Cuypstraat in De Pijp, this is the most famous market in Amsterdam. Need a motorcycle helmet, sundress, and cinnamon all in one afternoon? This is the place to go.
Tram #16 or 24 to Albert Cuypstraat. Open M-Sa 9am-6pm.
LAURA DOLS
Wolvenstraat 7
VINTAGE CLOTHING
020 62 490 66 www.lauradols.nl
An amazing collection of vintage gowns includes taffeta prom dresses, fluffy shepherdess-y numbers, and things you could actually get away with wearing outside of the house. Also sells shoes, bags, and old-school lingerie (including some awesome metallic bras).
Tram #1, 2, or 5 to Spui/Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal. Walk west to the far side of Herengracht, make a right, and then a left onto Wolvenstraat. Most dresses €30-60, though some go up into the hundreds. Open M 1-6pm, Tu-W 11am-6pm, Th 11am-7pm, Sa 11am-6pm, Su 1-6pm.
THE BOOK EXCHANGE
Kloveniersburgwal 58
BOOKS
020 62 66 266 www.bookexchange.nl
A tremendous selection of hardcover and paperback secondhand English books, ranging from New Age philosophy to poetry and beyond. Largest choice is with paperback fiction. Knowledgeable expat owner is more than happy to chat at length with customers. Store also buys and trades books.
From Nieuwmarkt, cross to the far side of Kloveniersburgwal and make a left. Open M-Sa 10am-4pm, Su 11:30am-4pm.
STUDIO 88
Gerard Douplein 88
CLOTHING
020 77 065 84 www.fashionstudio88.nl
The clothes at Studio 88 might not be as cheap as at naerby Albert Cuypmarket, but for an overstock and sample store, it sells some very nice high-end pieces for a fraction of what they would ordinarily cost. It carries mostly women’s clothes with a few racks of men’s things in the back.
Tram #16 or 24 to Albert Cuypstraat. Walk 1 block up and make a right onto Gerard Doustraat; the store is up ahead on the right. Prices vary by brand. Most shirts average around €20. Dresses around €40. Open M 1-6pm, Tu-F 11am-6pm, Sa 10am-6pm.
ESSENTIALS
Practicalities
• TOURIST OFFICES: VVV provides information on sights and accommodations. They also sell the I Amsterdam card, which gives you unlimited transport and free admission to many museums within a certain number of days. (Stationsplein 10 020 188 00 www.iamsterdam.com Across from the eastern part of Centraal Station, near tram stops 1-4. Open M-W 9am-6pm, Th-F 9am-9pm, Sa-Su 9am-6pm.) There’s another location at Leidseplein 26. ( Open M-Sa 10am-7:30pm, Su noon-7:30pm.) GAYtic is a tourist info office authorized by the VVV that specializes in GLBT tourist info. (Spuistraat 44 www.gaytic.nl Open M-Sa 11am-8pm, Su noon-8pm.)
• INTERNET: Openbare Bibliotheek Amsterdam provides free Wi-Fi and free use of computers that can be reserved through the information desk. (Oosterdokskade 143 052 309 00 www.oba.nl From Centraal Station, walk straight east. You’ll cross a canal, and the street will become Oosterdokskade. Open daily 10am-10pm.)
• POST OFFICES: Main branch. (Singel 250 020 55 633 11 www.tntpost.nl Tram #1, 2, 5, or 14 to Dam/Paleisstraat. Walk 1 block north and make a left onto Raadhuisstraat. Open M-F 9am-6pm, Sa 10am-1:30pm.)
Emergency!
• POLICE: Politie Amsterdam-Amstelland is the city’s police department. The following are the most convenient bureaus to central Amsterdam. All can be reached at 020 900 8844, where you will be connected to the nearest station or rape crisis center. Lijnbaansgracht. (Lijnbaansgracht 219 Tram #7 or 10 to Raamplein. Walk 1 block south and make a left onto Leidsegracht. Open 24hr.) Nie
uwezijds Voorburgwal. (Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 104-108 Tram #1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to Nieuwezijds Kolk. Walk 1 block down Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal. Open 24hr.) Prinsengracht. (Prinsengracht 1109 Tram #3, 4, 7, 10, or 25 to Fredericksplein. Walk diagonally through the square, up Utrechtsestraat, and make a right onto Prinsengracht. Open 24hr.)
• CRISIS HOTLINES: Amsterdam Tourist Assistance Service provides help for victimized tourists in Amsterdam, generally those who have been robbed. Can offer assistance with practical matters like money transfers, replacing documents, and finding temporary accommodations. (Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 104-08 020 62 532 46 www.stichtingatas.nl Tram #1, 2, 5, 13, or 17 to Nieuwezijds Kolk. Walk 1 block down Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal. It’s inside the police station. Open daily 10am-10pm.)
Let's Go Europe 2011: The Student Travel Guide Page 172